Heating Systems
#77
I was not really following this thread, just popped in because the forum was quite, so excuse me if I am going off on the wrong tangent but...
Surely what you are discussing is a Calorifier.
Most canal boats are fitted with one, which are readily available with one, two or three heating coils and an electrical emmersion element.
They are designed to be heated from the engine and/or from a stove or by mains electricity when connected.
They are available in a large range of sizes both horizontal and vertical plane, vertical is better, horizontal ones tend to cool faster from the incoming cold water.
Surely what you are discussing is a Calorifier.
Most canal boats are fitted with one, which are readily available with one, two or three heating coils and an electrical emmersion element.
They are designed to be heated from the engine and/or from a stove or by mains electricity when connected.
They are available in a large range of sizes both horizontal and vertical plane, vertical is better, horizontal ones tend to cool faster from the incoming cold water.
#78
BE Enthusiast





Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 561











I was not really following this thread, just popped in because the forum was quite, so excuse me if I am going off on the wrong tangent but...
Surely what you are discussing is a Calorifier.
Most canal boats are fitted with one, which are readily available with one, two or three heating coils and an electrical emmersion element.
They are designed to be heated from the engine and/or from a stove or by mains electricity when connected.
They are available in a large range of sizes both horizontal and vertical plane, vertical is better, horizontal ones tend to cool faster from the incoming cold water.
Surely what you are discussing is a Calorifier.
Most canal boats are fitted with one, which are readily available with one, two or three heating coils and an electrical emmersion element.
They are designed to be heated from the engine and/or from a stove or by mains electricity when connected.
They are available in a large range of sizes both horizontal and vertical plane, vertical is better, horizontal ones tend to cool faster from the incoming cold water.
#80
Forum Regular




Joined: May 2009
Posts: 297



We are considering gas central heating with a combo boiler and hot water floor standing storage vessel (7 rads). Our home has triple glazing and will have external insulation this summer. I was wondering in reality what are the annual bills like and perhaps anyone who has gas central heating could PM me with numbers please.
Cheers
Cheers
#81
BE Forum Addict







Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,203











Someone else's heating bills are not going to be very relevant. Energy used will depend upon the type of house, the amount of insulation and the temperature maintained. If you have triple glazing and will externally insulate (how thick? IMO 10cm is a good target for retrofit, more is better but diminishing returns kick in) and presumably there is at least 30cm in the loft, then I would expect your bills to be about 1/2 to 1/3 of a typical older house. Air tightness and removing cold bridges become important, as does ventilation, perhaps with mechanical ventilation with heat reclaim. A surprising difference can also be made by reducing the temperature from 21 deg to 18deg and wearing a jumper.
You can calculate your heat losses at any given internal and external temperature and this will give an estimate of your heat demand and thus your energy bill. You will need to calculate the losses any way to correctly size the radiators.
By the way if you are externally insulating then it is worth carrying the insulation 50cm below the ground floor level even if you need to dig down to do it. If the house is raised up as many are in Hungary then go all the way to ground level. This prevents the cold bridge at solid floor level and allows the floor to warm up. If you have a cellar then insulate the underside of the floor/cellar ceiling. If you go below ground level the normal EPS is OK and you don't need the expensive XPS. (long term tests have shown this)
If you need a help to calculate your heat losses I can send you a link for values. Its not difficult, just a bit laborious and repetitive.
You can calculate your heat losses at any given internal and external temperature and this will give an estimate of your heat demand and thus your energy bill. You will need to calculate the losses any way to correctly size the radiators.
By the way if you are externally insulating then it is worth carrying the insulation 50cm below the ground floor level even if you need to dig down to do it. If the house is raised up as many are in Hungary then go all the way to ground level. This prevents the cold bridge at solid floor level and allows the floor to warm up. If you have a cellar then insulate the underside of the floor/cellar ceiling. If you go below ground level the normal EPS is OK and you don't need the expensive XPS. (long term tests have shown this)
If you need a help to calculate your heat losses I can send you a link for values. Its not difficult, just a bit laborious and repetitive.
#82
We are considering gas central heating with a combo boiler and hot water floor standing storage vessel (7 rads). Our home has triple glazing and will have external insulation this summer. I was wondering in reality what are the annual bills like and perhaps anyone who has gas central heating could PM me with numbers please.
Cheers
Cheers
#83
Forum Regular




Joined: May 2009
Posts: 297



Thanks both for the input.
Yes Rural that would be fine, please ask Evie to email me
Yes Rural that would be fine, please ask Evie to email me
#84
Forum Regular

Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 33
From: Kent








Hi Richard, Have just sent email...Evie
#85
Forum Regular




Joined: May 2009
Posts: 297



Thanks Rural/Evie I have replied to your e-mail




only kidding!
