DrakeS

Many thanks for the info.

Cptnemo

Buenas Tardes

Bit difficult to describe, but when you drive into Isla Canela there are 2 vicious speed bumps close together, just over a bridge - on the right there is a canal and some houses - basically we've walked along the beach and got nearly as far as that.

As for swimming/children - the tides are quite strong but I dont think they are too bad, I think you can only judge for yourselves - the majority of people seem to go out to about the same distance.

Cheers

Carol&John

Buenos dias,
Sorry for my delay in replying, but thanks for the information, Cptnemo.
There is information about the webcam on the eyeonislacanela site, too.
Regards,
Carol

un-mundo

I remember Ayamonte 30 years ago - not been back since! It was always a beautiful town. I went down the river once, on a weather aborted trip to N.Africa and it was beautiful, so unspoiled. The current is worth watching, though, especially for children, let them swim but give them a line. It was always my dream to buy one of those old disused and derelect custom posts on the side of the river. I dare say they are a vast golf-complex these days.

Carol&John

Hola un-mundo,
Thanks for your reply. I also would be cautious about children using inflatibles in the water (unsupervised), as they unknowingly could be pulled along the current at some speed.
Please tell more about your journey down the Guadiana! Where did you embark?
Hasta pronto,
Carol

un-mundo

Our original plan was to sail from Portimao across to Ceuta but after about ten hours a Spanish fishing boat scared the life out of us by changing course to come along side (we thought we were going to be sold into white slavery or something ghastly), to warn us of very bad weather ahead. As the sea was like a millpond at that stage, with next to no wind, they saw the disbelief in our eyes and kindly handed us over a huge whicker basket of langoustine, which they clearly thought was going to be our last supper.

We pressed on, foolishly, and the weather changed dramatically, with huge waves, a massive swell and a rather nasty wind. We turned tail and headed for the shore. We made it, safely, to Vila Real at the mouth of the Guardiana, having to turn around and rescue a German boat who was in difficulties coming into the harbour - we were, effectively, surfing into port.

After that experience the three of us were feeling rather less brave, so we decided to abandon Ceuta for another time (possibly another lifetime), and gently pootled up the Guardiana for three or four days before turning around and heading back to the open sea and around the coast to return to Portimao. It was a lovely meander and we hardly saw anyone apart from a few smuggling boats scurrying backwards and forwards across the river to Spain to pick up cheap booze and ciggies and take them back to Portugal. A spanish customs boat boarded us at one point, to drink a few bottles of wine with us and share some baccy of the whacky variety. We also met a delightful old French guy who lived in his boat on the river, he was an artist and we had dinner with him on his boat. All in all, it was a delightful trip. We didn't really disembark anywhere that had a name, just took the boat's tender a few times to row ashore and sit on the bank, and swam lazily around the boat. We had plenty of food and even more drink and it was all very pleasant.

poollounger

Un-Mondo a great post. I remember sitting in the bar of the Parador at Ayamonte about a year ago when a ketch came sailing along and turned to head up the river, it's sails silhouetted against the setting sun. Do you still sail?? I have a boat on the lower Thames, and maybe, just maybe, one day I may have the nerve to sail it to Spain. I harbour dreams of exploring the north African coast.

un-mundo

Thanks for your comment, pool. I've had a few lucky times in my life, and that was certainly one of them! Sometimes it is good when the plans go wrong. The sad thing is that I'd hate to do that trip again. I dread to think what hideous connurbations have been built down that stretch of a beautiful river. Golf complexes and water sucking urbanisations. I prefer to remember it as it was. Call me old fashioned.

Carol&John

Hola y buenos dias,
Thanks un-mundo for your post, what a great story! Not surprising how the weather can change rapidly out in the open ocean, and coming ashore on a huge wave. There was a tidal wave (maybe 2 centuries ago?) which hit Vila Real, Santo Antonio, San Marim areas. No idea of the devastation caused to Ayamonte, but can only assume it also did. This is a similar story sadly for many fishing/coastal communities throughout the world, I believe.
The area on both sides of the Guadiana will have changed dramatically in the last 30 years since you visited, how can it not have? "Time waits for no man", etc, etc... Our first visit to Ayamonte was en route from Tavira to Sevilla, oh maybe 23 years ago, with the ferryboat crossing the river. Memories include the light, the dust, and the heat, but we returned for more (on holiday, not resident, so I know I do not qualify in some people's notebook ) four years ago. I was pleased to find in Ayamonte old town some reminders of memories from childhood; like the "modista" shop, the scent in the "peluqueria" packed with women of a certain age and their "abanicos" wafting frantically, corner sweet shops, the traditional "tomar un paseo" with children turned out immaculately in white clothing, and, most important, a polite and hospitable people. Has this changed in the last 4 years? Maybe the shops have moved along? Perhaps there are more visitors? Ah, the old debate: "Rose tinted spectacles". In 10 years time, who knows what I'll be able to see? Es verdad?
Regards,
Carol

EsuriJohn

Hi Carol&John,

It was the great Iberian earthquake of about 1785 which left great devastation across Portugal causing great loss of life in Lisbon and surrounding areas. The aftermath was a Tsunami which swept Villa Real away and it was rebuilt on a grid pattern just like, but before New York in just 5 months by the Marquis de Pombal.

Regards,

John.

Carol&John

Hi John,
That'll be the one, hitting Vila Real de Santo Antonio and Castro Marim - getting my saints and geography mixed up. Tidal wave must have caused devastation in Ayamonte area, too? Any information? Perhaps the Guadiana river slowed down the force?
Which reminds me, the webcam overlooking the Guadiana is working. See www.eyeonislacanela.com and click on the bottom of the home page where it says Webcam! However, it might have stopped for the day (5pm?)
Regards,
Carol

poollounger

What great posts and memories this thread has invoked. Although I decided Costa Esuri was not for me, hopefully it will be as tasteful as an urbanisation can be, and the folks who buy there will not overwhelm Ayamonte, which I thought was still charming. The agent who drove us around took us to a restaurant a little out of the town by the estuary, like a scruffy taverna in old Greece, cars parked 3 feet away, but the food was simple and delicious. Loved the little alleys of the town and the restaurants sandwiched between. No tales of old ladies etc to recount, but remember one very brave man in full drag sitting all alone at a table in the alley. At lunchtime. No attempt to be a woman, just black velvet, make up and a shaved head. For a moment I though I had been transported to 1930's Berlin.. and no I am not that old, just read too many novels and seen too many films!!

EsuriJohn

Hi Carol&John,

I wonder if Ayamonte was restricted to the older part up a very steep slope so that it would "only" be the fishing community at the bottom of the hill that would be hit.

Looked several times at the webcam yesterday both before and after it was operational so that was no use. First looked at about 10 this morning and then throughout the day on and off dull grey and overcast every time. Not overjoyed with that but it will get better roll on summer!

Regards,

John.

Carol&John

Hi again,
The webcam is fun, but not a patch on being there, I'm sure, whatever the weather. Oh well... today, I've seen lots of cars, some people walking past, and 2 cars parked opposite the camera - extra security?
Poollounger, people watching is a great pasttime. Many a great thought for a story/novel has started over a cuppa... (imagine a cortado)
Regards,
Carol

un-mundo

Goodness, what a trip down memory lane/river I had last night!

There's an Altea webcam that I gaze at, longingly, from time to time when in the UK. It's not quite "the real thing" but at least it doesn't close down at 5pm!