Electrical conversion US to U.K
#16
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 11
Re: Electrical conversion US to U.K
Hi Paul,
Well your further remarks have pretty much confirmed what I surmised, in fact thinking back I realize now that at least ONE of my 3 1970s TEAC reel to reel decks DOES INDEED have a switchable BELT (if you can imagine that) because when I bought it it was set to 50 Hz - it had been overseas - and I had to switch it back.
And I guess it will hit or miss with my turntable, it's also from the 70s but no idea about it's 50 Hertz-friendliness.
The other option of course is to get off my butt and transfer all my old two track and four track masters to digital BEFORE I leave the States !!!! A lot of work though.....and a lot of disc space too.
Would save trouble down the line. Sounds like 90% of my items are going to be fine on 50 Hz.
Would you still recommend a frequency converter just for the delicate music electronics ???? - you know, reverb units, effects processors - I am thinking it might be safest since I want really CLEAN power - no hum no hiss etc.
And MAYBE for the computers too - although is sounds like most computers have no problem.
I have never calibrated anything in my life - I was the service coordinator, doing all the scheduling and billing and customer relations and QC and etc. We repaired and calibrated ALL kinds of TE from Oscilloscopes to Spectrum Analyzers to Wattmeters to Frequency Standards. I had to maintain traceability to N.I.S.T. which was a difficult and interesting task !
I did do some repairs (I started out in the parts dept ordering transistors and resistors for the techs, etc.) but otherwise I just manned a desk....
I also did have the fun of buying and selling test equipment which is a WHOLE 'nother ball game....
Thanks again for the info, I feel SO much more prepared than I was !!!!!
Dave
Well your further remarks have pretty much confirmed what I surmised, in fact thinking back I realize now that at least ONE of my 3 1970s TEAC reel to reel decks DOES INDEED have a switchable BELT (if you can imagine that) because when I bought it it was set to 50 Hz - it had been overseas - and I had to switch it back.
And I guess it will hit or miss with my turntable, it's also from the 70s but no idea about it's 50 Hertz-friendliness.
The other option of course is to get off my butt and transfer all my old two track and four track masters to digital BEFORE I leave the States !!!! A lot of work though.....and a lot of disc space too.
Would save trouble down the line. Sounds like 90% of my items are going to be fine on 50 Hz.
Would you still recommend a frequency converter just for the delicate music electronics ???? - you know, reverb units, effects processors - I am thinking it might be safest since I want really CLEAN power - no hum no hiss etc.
And MAYBE for the computers too - although is sounds like most computers have no problem.
I have never calibrated anything in my life - I was the service coordinator, doing all the scheduling and billing and customer relations and QC and etc. We repaired and calibrated ALL kinds of TE from Oscilloscopes to Spectrum Analyzers to Wattmeters to Frequency Standards. I had to maintain traceability to N.I.S.T. which was a difficult and interesting task !
I did do some repairs (I started out in the parts dept ordering transistors and resistors for the techs, etc.) but otherwise I just manned a desk....
I also did have the fun of buying and selling test equipment which is a WHOLE 'nother ball game....
Thanks again for the info, I feel SO much more prepared than I was !!!!!
Dave
Originally Posted by PBC_1966
My pleasure.
I didn't want to go into too much detail if it didn't apply to you, but as you have these I'll add a few more points.
Turntables mostly have two different types of motor drive. Some models from about the mid/late 1970s onward have a DC motor with servo speed control, and if they are selectable for 120 or 240V input may be O.K. on either 50 or 60Hz input, depending upon the design. The other, AC type motor is found on practically all older units and on many later ones built to the more traditional style. These are frequency dependent, so even if you change the voltage they will not run correctly on the wrong frequency.
You could get a frequency converter for these, and as the power level involved is very low it shouldn't be too expensive. (A crystal-controlled 60Hz source will actually give you better frequency/speed accuracy than the power coming off the grid.)
Another option is to change the pulley -- If you can get hold of a replacement. It was fairly common for domestic and export versions of some models to be made, and the factory simply fitted the appropriate pulley depending upon whether the unit was being shipped to a 50 or 60Hz country. It might we worth an inquiry to the manufacturer, you never know!
The AC motors in reel-to-reel tape decks tend to be much heftier, and more problematical to change. However, there are some models, particularly the later Japanese types, which can actually be changed from 60 to 50Hz quite easily (Japan has both frequencies within the country), so you may like to check the user guide carefully. I have a 1970s Akai deck which is selectable in this way. As with turntables, there a some designs with DC servo-controlled motors and these may well work on 50Hz without further ado.
What sort of equipment did you calibrate?
Best wishes,
Paul.
I didn't want to go into too much detail if it didn't apply to you, but as you have these I'll add a few more points.
Turntables mostly have two different types of motor drive. Some models from about the mid/late 1970s onward have a DC motor with servo speed control, and if they are selectable for 120 or 240V input may be O.K. on either 50 or 60Hz input, depending upon the design. The other, AC type motor is found on practically all older units and on many later ones built to the more traditional style. These are frequency dependent, so even if you change the voltage they will not run correctly on the wrong frequency.
You could get a frequency converter for these, and as the power level involved is very low it shouldn't be too expensive. (A crystal-controlled 60Hz source will actually give you better frequency/speed accuracy than the power coming off the grid.)
Another option is to change the pulley -- If you can get hold of a replacement. It was fairly common for domestic and export versions of some models to be made, and the factory simply fitted the appropriate pulley depending upon whether the unit was being shipped to a 50 or 60Hz country. It might we worth an inquiry to the manufacturer, you never know!
The AC motors in reel-to-reel tape decks tend to be much heftier, and more problematical to change. However, there are some models, particularly the later Japanese types, which can actually be changed from 60 to 50Hz quite easily (Japan has both frequencies within the country), so you may like to check the user guide carefully. I have a 1970s Akai deck which is selectable in this way. As with turntables, there a some designs with DC servo-controlled motors and these may well work on 50Hz without further ado.
What sort of equipment did you calibrate?
Best wishes,
Paul.
#17
Re: Electrical conversion US to U.K
Originally Posted by honeymommy
We just returned.... Most computers have dual power... Ours did, there's a switch o the back..... We purchase the new cable with a UK plug for £10 and works great..... Could just use an adapter USto UK plug buy in Fry's electronics for around $5.....
And those transformers can get really hot, so best used in an open ventilated area, unless you get a rather huge pricey one
#18
Forum Regular
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Norfolk, England
Posts: 74
Re: Electrical conversion US to U.K
Originally Posted by pureambient
Would you still recommend a frequency converter just for the delicate music electronics ???? - you know, reverb units, effects processors - I am thinking it might be safest since I want really CLEAN power - no hum no hiss etc.
Technically, 50Hz supplies require slightly more filtering than 60Hz to achieve the same level of hum reduction. In practical terms, however, power supplies are usually designed with a very wide margin over the miinimum filtering requirements, and as most newer equipment is sold worldwide these days, the filters are most often designed to cope with the lower 50Hz frequency anyway.
For all but your 60Hz turntables and tape decks, I'd just get a substantial 240-to-120V transformer and run everything from that on 50Hz.
Originally Posted by Bob
And those transformers can get really hot, so best used in an open ventilated area, unless you get a rather huge pricey one
If you can run to the cost, I'd get a couple of decent size 2 or even 3kVA units such as the one I linked to above. Bring a few 120V power strips with you from the States which you can plug in to the transformers to feed all your equipment.
Even if you don't need all that power at the moment, the larger transformers will run cooler under load and you will have spare capacity should it ever be needed. You will also get better regulation on a larger transformer. The cost isn't going to be that great compared to the overseas moving expenses (as I know only too well....).
#19
Re: Electrical conversion US to U.K
There is one more option. This is what I did for my turntable when I moved from the UK to the US. I went from 110V to 12VDC with a cheap supply I got which actually had a cigarette lighter socket built-in. I used a 12V to 220V inverter which I got in the UK from Maplin (so is 220V 50Hz). The 12 to 220V was designed for Automotive, so again had a cigarette lighter plug on in. I looked at the output on a scope with an HV probe, and it was a nice sine wave, which is what it said on the box (true sine or some such). Works a treat, and an added bonus is that the 50Hz is crystal generated, so more accurate than it would be in the UK! The Linn sounds great!
- Tim
- Tim
#20
Forum Regular
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Norfolk, England
Posts: 74
Re: Electrical conversion US to U.K
The conversion to DC followed by an inverter is basically what a dedicated frequency converter comprises anyway. As Tim did though, do make sure that the inverter is a pure/true sinewave type, as small induction motors will most definitely object to being run on the horrible squarewave, or even modified sinewave of the cheaper inverters.
Now there's a man with expensive tastes!
Originally Posted by TimFountain
The Linn sounds great!