OVER 50's+ MOVING BACK TO THE UK - Part II
Mar 22nd 2011, 11:48 am
#5131
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,198
Re: OVER 50's & 60's MOVING BACK TO THE UK - Part II
I agree - to a certain point, HSG. But there are a lot of very aggressive 'mature' drivers on the road who also cause accidents, especially in built-up areas like here in Greater London.
There are also so, so many people here who are driving illegally (no license, no insurance) and they cause no end of trouble. Many of them cannot read English (we see these stories all the time on the police shows) so you have situations where they are going the wrong way around roundabouts, etc.
Mar 22nd 2011, 12:40 pm
#5132
I can't Re-Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Back in the UK after 21 years away.
Posts: 781
Re: OVER 50's & 60's MOVING BACK TO THE UK - Part II
I agree - to a certain point, HSG. But there are a lot of very aggressive 'mature' drivers on the road who also cause accidents, especially in built-up areas like here in Greater London.
There are also so, so many people here who are driving illegally (no license, no insurance) and they cause no end of trouble. Many of them cannot read English (we see these stories all the time on the police shows) so you have situations where they are going the wrong way around roundabouts, etc.
There are also so, so many people here who are driving illegally (no license, no insurance) and they cause no end of trouble. Many of them cannot read English (we see these stories all the time on the police shows) so you have situations where they are going the wrong way around roundabouts, etc.
. No you are right. It is not just young drivers. Those mature drivers that think they know it all are as bad. And don't get me started on those driving without insurance etc and can't read road signs.When I read things like that it really makes me mad!
On another note, I was out today at another interview. Was really nervous about driving again. Each time I get in the car it's like it's the first time. I don't know when this nervousness will wear off.
But SO FAR every time I have driven I have really enjoyed it.
Mar 22nd 2011, 12:49 pm
#5133
I can't Re-Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Back in the UK after 21 years away.
Posts: 781
Re: OVER 50's & 60's MOVING BACK TO THE UK - Part II
Just found this online. I do not take any credit for it.
And just in case anyone is confused....it is not the REAL highway code of 2011
The Highway Code 2011 (Revised edition)
« on: February 25, 2011, 19:14:58 PM »
The Highway Code 2011 (Revised edition)
(or "How To Drive in the UK Once You've Passed Your Test")
General
1. YOU ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT PERSON ON THE ROAD. Everyone else should give way to you.
Town Driving
1. Junctions. The following is particularly useful when stopped at traffic lights. If you are turning left or right, DO NOT INDICATE UNTIL AFTER YOU HAVE STARTED TO TURN. This is particularly important if there is a motorcycle next to you. Please note that all motorcyclists are psychic; they know exactly what you are going to do next.
2. Hatched areas at box junctions: always enter the hatched area at a junction, whether your exit is clear or not. If carefully timed, this causes all other traffic to wait for you (see rule 1.1)
3. Traffic lights. The best time to go through a junction controlled by traffic lights is when they are about to turn red. With practise, you should be able to achieve the ultimate goal, which is to pass the point of no return just as the lights go green for crossing traffic.
4. Speed cameras. Ignore these, they never contain any film anyway.
5. Emergency vehicles. If you hear and / or see an emergency vehicle approaching, IMMEDIATELY stop your vehicle no matter where you are. Emergency vehicles are designed to be able to swerve around you.
6. Turning a corner. When turning into a side street, make sure you aim for the middle of the road to allow yourself plenty of room. Any approaching traffic must give way to you, especially motorcycles.
7. Parking. When you have parked your vehicle, open your door when you are ready. For approaching cyclists, it is THEIR problem.
8. It IS permissible to perform a U-turn in a busy street. Approaching traffic must give way to you (see rule 1.1)
9. Joining a main road or motorway. Just join it, there is no need to bother about traffic approaching from your right.
10. Heavy Goods Vehicles / Buses. If these are indicating that they are going to turn LEFT, but move into the centre of the road, this means that the driver is going straight ahead. It is perfectly safe to move alongside them, taking the space they are leaving on their left.
11. Traffic circles / Roundabouts. If a lot of traffic is present on a roundabout because the exits are blocked for some reason, JOIN THE ROUNDABOUT IMMEDIATELY. This will ensure that you get a space, and prevents foolish drivers approaching from the right getting ahead of you. This can be achieved most effectively by trying to angle your vehicle so that you take up more than one lane. IGNORE the painted lane lines on the road surface; these were put there just to use up excess road paint.
12. Dropping off passengers / unloading. Always try to do this where the road is narrow and the traffic flow is heavy. Single yellow lines next to the kerb indicate a stopping zone. If there are double yellow lines, this means you may take twice as long.
Motorway Driving
1. Upon joining a motorway, IMMEDIATELY make your way into the third lane. This can be achieved without the use of signalling. If you feel that you absolutely MUST signal, with sufficient practice you should be able to allow your indicator to flash JUST ONCE. After all, the whole idea is to keep other drivers guessing. The exception to this rule is if traffic in Lane 3 is applying rule 3.12 correctly. In this case, leaving the indicator ON means that the other vehicles must give way to you.
2. If you find that Lane 3 is moving too slowly, you may move into Lane 2. NEVER drive in Lane 1. This Lane is for lorries and idiots.
3. When changing lanes, do not indicate. This is most effective if you notice a motorcycle approaching from the rear.
4. Another fun thing to do is to start off in Lane 1, then indicate Right and join Lane 2. LEAVE YOUR INDICATOR ON. This ensures that Lane 3 next to you remains clear, should you wish to use it in future. This can also be effective when driving in Lane 3; indicate Left but stay in Lane 3.
5. When passing roadworks, upon seeing a sign stating "STAY IN LANE", this actually means you are free to change lanes at will, depending on which one is moving the most quickly.
6. If traffic is heavy and moving very slowly, choose your lane position carefully. Within your lane, drive as close as possible to the painted lane lines. If this is carefully co-ordinated with other drivers ahead of you, you can create a staggered effect which is most effective in stopping motorcyclists from filtering between the lanes.
7. A motorway is an IDEAL location for using your mobile phone, as you do not need to concentrate on your driving; it does not matter if you gradually wander across lanes.
8. Braking. NEVER brake until you have absolutely no choice. This has the effect of keeping your brake lights off until the very last minute, with amusing results for traffic behind you.
9. The UK has no minimum speed limit. This means that if you WANT to drive at 40mph on a motorway, you may do so. HOWEVER, you MUST be in Lane 2.
10. When leaving a motorway, do this from Lane 3. It is permissible to indicate Left, but try and time your exit so that you maintain a smooth path from Lane 3 onto the slip road. Any traffic in Lanes 1 and 2 must give way to you (see rule 1.1). Ignore any painted hatched areas on the road surface, these will not damage your tyres.
11. Variable speed limits. Contrary to popular belief, the flashing signs above a motorway do not indicate the speed at which you should be travelling. They actually indicate the highest speed limit in the closest town and do not apply to the motorway.
12. Overhead Lane Signals. On some occasions, you will see a red flashing cross above one of the lanes on the motorway. Upon seeing this, you will also notice that there is very little traffic in this lane. IMMEDIATELY make your way into this lane. This will allow you to overtake lots and lots of vehicles. When you eventually reach the obstruction in this lane, just indicate and move into one of the other lanes. Other vehicles must allow you to join their lane (see Rule 1.1).
13. Following distance. The ideal following distance is approximately 10 feet. This has the following advantages:
1. it prevents vehicles from sneaking into the gap ahead of you, especially if they are applying rule 3.1.
2. you have no need to concentrate on anything going on around you; you just need to follow the car in front. (Of course if the driver in front of you is following rule 3.8 some interesting results could occur, but at all times REMEMBER RULE 1.1.)
3. The correct following distance if a motorcycle is ahead of you, is approximately 4 feet. After all, your vehicle is larger than theirs.
14. An enjoyable trick to employ if there is a motorcyclist behind you, is to use your windscreen washer/wiper. Careful glances in the rear-view mirror will result in instant gratification as you see the motorcyclist covered with the spray. They are very grateful for this treatment as it helps to wash their visors and cool them down.
15. Rain. If it has not rained for a while, and you experience a downfall whilst driving, immediately SPEED UP. The combination of oil/dust/rain on the road provides an ideal test for the grip of your tyres. After all, tyre manufacturers design them for this.
16. Heavy Goods Vehicles. ALWAYS start to overtake another slow-moving vehicle at the start of a long hill, or if you estimate your speed is approximately 1mph faster than theirs. This will enable you to test your engine power against that of the other vehicle. It does not matter that between you, you are blocking two lanes of a three-lane motorway for several miles.
17. Contrary to popular belief, it is neither illegal nor dangerous to tow a trailer in lane three of the motorway at 80mph. In fact, the bigger the trailer is, the faster you may go. This rule is partically effective when used with rules 3.3, 3.4 and 3.15.
Mirrors
1. Mirrors have only two purposes; firstly, they are useful for checking that your hair is properly combed / makeup is correctly applied. Secondly, they are to be used to observe the results of your actions mentioned in points 2.3; 2.8; 2.13; and 3.14. There is NO NEED to be aware of what is happening behind you. It is the responsibility of drivers behind you to react to your movements.
2. The same applies to your blind spot. This has nothing to do with driving, but refers to the part of your eye over the optic nerve which is incapable of sight.
Bus/Taxi/Motorcycle lanes
1. These are one of the best lanes in which to drive as there is hardly any traffic. This is particularly useful if you drive a white van.
2. You may ignore the solid white line demarcating the bus lane from the rest of the roadway. You may cross this line wherever you want. Contrary to popular belief, painted solid lines will have no effect on your tyres.
Motorcyclists
1. A demonstration of your skill at handling a motorcycle can be done by performing a "wheelie". This is the definition of riding a motorcycle along on its back wheel only, and must be carried out at a speed of approximately 60mph in a 40mph zone, preferably just before a junction.
2. Filtering. This manoeuvre is carried out by travelling between lanes of traffic. It is best achieved at a speed of approximately 60mph irrespective of the speed of the traffic. If the traffic is obeying rule 3.6, the best way to deal with this is by shaking your fist at the drivers and revving your engine loudly.
3. Overtaking. If another motorcycle is ahead of you, the goal here is to overtake them as closely and as quickly as possible, preferably cutting across their path. They are of course psychic (see rule 2.1) so can anticipate this and obey rule 1.1.
Cyclists
(Cyclists are only given a general mention here because The Highway Code does not apply to them at all).
1. When traffic lights are red, cyclists may continue their journey uninterrupted.
2. When crossing junctions (especially when the traffic lights are red), cyclists must STAND UP on their pedals. This gives them a more threatening posture for dealing with any crossing pedestrians.
3. If cyclists are going straight ahead at a junction, the best position for this is in the right-turn only lane.
4. If a vehicle ahead of you is indicating to turn left, try to get between the vehicle and the kerb before it turns. See Rule 1.1.
5. It is not a legal requirement to have lights or reflectors on your bicycle after dark. In fact, if you can make the effort to wear black clothing as well, you are actually assisting other drivers to practice their observation skills. If they can't see you, this proves they need glasses. See Rule 1.1.
Pedestrians
1. Crossing the road. Ignore the dedicated pedestrian crossing areas; these are for wimps. Cross the road at a point best suited to you. This can have excellent results if traffic is slow-moving or at a standstill, particularly when motorcyclists are filtering between the lanes (see rule 1.1). It is great fun when crossing the road to purposely look the wrong way. Until you get to the centre of the road, keep looking left. Ignore traffic approaching from your right. Once you get to the centre of the road, look right, and ignore traffic approaching from your left; after all, you DO have right of way.*
*This only applies in countries where vehicles drive on the left. In countries where vehicles drive on the right, look right until you get to the centre of the road, then look left until you have finished crossing.
2. Junctions. Always cross the road very carefully at a junction. If you time this correctly, you will have the satisfaction of halting the traffic which is turning into the side road; this is particularly effective if the red DO NOT CROSS traffic light is illuminated.
And just in case anyone is confused....it is not the REAL highway code of 2011
The Highway Code 2011 (Revised edition)
« on: February 25, 2011, 19:14:58 PM »
The Highway Code 2011 (Revised edition)
(or "How To Drive in the UK Once You've Passed Your Test")
General
1. YOU ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT PERSON ON THE ROAD. Everyone else should give way to you.
Town Driving
1. Junctions. The following is particularly useful when stopped at traffic lights. If you are turning left or right, DO NOT INDICATE UNTIL AFTER YOU HAVE STARTED TO TURN. This is particularly important if there is a motorcycle next to you. Please note that all motorcyclists are psychic; they know exactly what you are going to do next.
2. Hatched areas at box junctions: always enter the hatched area at a junction, whether your exit is clear or not. If carefully timed, this causes all other traffic to wait for you (see rule 1.1)
3. Traffic lights. The best time to go through a junction controlled by traffic lights is when they are about to turn red. With practise, you should be able to achieve the ultimate goal, which is to pass the point of no return just as the lights go green for crossing traffic.
4. Speed cameras. Ignore these, they never contain any film anyway.
5. Emergency vehicles. If you hear and / or see an emergency vehicle approaching, IMMEDIATELY stop your vehicle no matter where you are. Emergency vehicles are designed to be able to swerve around you.
6. Turning a corner. When turning into a side street, make sure you aim for the middle of the road to allow yourself plenty of room. Any approaching traffic must give way to you, especially motorcycles.
7. Parking. When you have parked your vehicle, open your door when you are ready. For approaching cyclists, it is THEIR problem.
8. It IS permissible to perform a U-turn in a busy street. Approaching traffic must give way to you (see rule 1.1)
9. Joining a main road or motorway. Just join it, there is no need to bother about traffic approaching from your right.
10. Heavy Goods Vehicles / Buses. If these are indicating that they are going to turn LEFT, but move into the centre of the road, this means that the driver is going straight ahead. It is perfectly safe to move alongside them, taking the space they are leaving on their left.
11. Traffic circles / Roundabouts. If a lot of traffic is present on a roundabout because the exits are blocked for some reason, JOIN THE ROUNDABOUT IMMEDIATELY. This will ensure that you get a space, and prevents foolish drivers approaching from the right getting ahead of you. This can be achieved most effectively by trying to angle your vehicle so that you take up more than one lane. IGNORE the painted lane lines on the road surface; these were put there just to use up excess road paint.
12. Dropping off passengers / unloading. Always try to do this where the road is narrow and the traffic flow is heavy. Single yellow lines next to the kerb indicate a stopping zone. If there are double yellow lines, this means you may take twice as long.
Motorway Driving
1. Upon joining a motorway, IMMEDIATELY make your way into the third lane. This can be achieved without the use of signalling. If you feel that you absolutely MUST signal, with sufficient practice you should be able to allow your indicator to flash JUST ONCE. After all, the whole idea is to keep other drivers guessing. The exception to this rule is if traffic in Lane 3 is applying rule 3.12 correctly. In this case, leaving the indicator ON means that the other vehicles must give way to you.
2. If you find that Lane 3 is moving too slowly, you may move into Lane 2. NEVER drive in Lane 1. This Lane is for lorries and idiots.
3. When changing lanes, do not indicate. This is most effective if you notice a motorcycle approaching from the rear.
4. Another fun thing to do is to start off in Lane 1, then indicate Right and join Lane 2. LEAVE YOUR INDICATOR ON. This ensures that Lane 3 next to you remains clear, should you wish to use it in future. This can also be effective when driving in Lane 3; indicate Left but stay in Lane 3.
5. When passing roadworks, upon seeing a sign stating "STAY IN LANE", this actually means you are free to change lanes at will, depending on which one is moving the most quickly.
6. If traffic is heavy and moving very slowly, choose your lane position carefully. Within your lane, drive as close as possible to the painted lane lines. If this is carefully co-ordinated with other drivers ahead of you, you can create a staggered effect which is most effective in stopping motorcyclists from filtering between the lanes.
7. A motorway is an IDEAL location for using your mobile phone, as you do not need to concentrate on your driving; it does not matter if you gradually wander across lanes.
8. Braking. NEVER brake until you have absolutely no choice. This has the effect of keeping your brake lights off until the very last minute, with amusing results for traffic behind you.
9. The UK has no minimum speed limit. This means that if you WANT to drive at 40mph on a motorway, you may do so. HOWEVER, you MUST be in Lane 2.
10. When leaving a motorway, do this from Lane 3. It is permissible to indicate Left, but try and time your exit so that you maintain a smooth path from Lane 3 onto the slip road. Any traffic in Lanes 1 and 2 must give way to you (see rule 1.1). Ignore any painted hatched areas on the road surface, these will not damage your tyres.
11. Variable speed limits. Contrary to popular belief, the flashing signs above a motorway do not indicate the speed at which you should be travelling. They actually indicate the highest speed limit in the closest town and do not apply to the motorway.
12. Overhead Lane Signals. On some occasions, you will see a red flashing cross above one of the lanes on the motorway. Upon seeing this, you will also notice that there is very little traffic in this lane. IMMEDIATELY make your way into this lane. This will allow you to overtake lots and lots of vehicles. When you eventually reach the obstruction in this lane, just indicate and move into one of the other lanes. Other vehicles must allow you to join their lane (see Rule 1.1).
13. Following distance. The ideal following distance is approximately 10 feet. This has the following advantages:
1. it prevents vehicles from sneaking into the gap ahead of you, especially if they are applying rule 3.1.
2. you have no need to concentrate on anything going on around you; you just need to follow the car in front. (Of course if the driver in front of you is following rule 3.8 some interesting results could occur, but at all times REMEMBER RULE 1.1.)
3. The correct following distance if a motorcycle is ahead of you, is approximately 4 feet. After all, your vehicle is larger than theirs.
14. An enjoyable trick to employ if there is a motorcyclist behind you, is to use your windscreen washer/wiper. Careful glances in the rear-view mirror will result in instant gratification as you see the motorcyclist covered with the spray. They are very grateful for this treatment as it helps to wash their visors and cool them down.
15. Rain. If it has not rained for a while, and you experience a downfall whilst driving, immediately SPEED UP. The combination of oil/dust/rain on the road provides an ideal test for the grip of your tyres. After all, tyre manufacturers design them for this.
16. Heavy Goods Vehicles. ALWAYS start to overtake another slow-moving vehicle at the start of a long hill, or if you estimate your speed is approximately 1mph faster than theirs. This will enable you to test your engine power against that of the other vehicle. It does not matter that between you, you are blocking two lanes of a three-lane motorway for several miles.
17. Contrary to popular belief, it is neither illegal nor dangerous to tow a trailer in lane three of the motorway at 80mph. In fact, the bigger the trailer is, the faster you may go. This rule is partically effective when used with rules 3.3, 3.4 and 3.15.
Mirrors
1. Mirrors have only two purposes; firstly, they are useful for checking that your hair is properly combed / makeup is correctly applied. Secondly, they are to be used to observe the results of your actions mentioned in points 2.3; 2.8; 2.13; and 3.14. There is NO NEED to be aware of what is happening behind you. It is the responsibility of drivers behind you to react to your movements.
2. The same applies to your blind spot. This has nothing to do with driving, but refers to the part of your eye over the optic nerve which is incapable of sight.
Bus/Taxi/Motorcycle lanes
1. These are one of the best lanes in which to drive as there is hardly any traffic. This is particularly useful if you drive a white van.
2. You may ignore the solid white line demarcating the bus lane from the rest of the roadway. You may cross this line wherever you want. Contrary to popular belief, painted solid lines will have no effect on your tyres.
Motorcyclists
1. A demonstration of your skill at handling a motorcycle can be done by performing a "wheelie". This is the definition of riding a motorcycle along on its back wheel only, and must be carried out at a speed of approximately 60mph in a 40mph zone, preferably just before a junction.
2. Filtering. This manoeuvre is carried out by travelling between lanes of traffic. It is best achieved at a speed of approximately 60mph irrespective of the speed of the traffic. If the traffic is obeying rule 3.6, the best way to deal with this is by shaking your fist at the drivers and revving your engine loudly.
3. Overtaking. If another motorcycle is ahead of you, the goal here is to overtake them as closely and as quickly as possible, preferably cutting across their path. They are of course psychic (see rule 2.1) so can anticipate this and obey rule 1.1.
Cyclists
(Cyclists are only given a general mention here because The Highway Code does not apply to them at all).
1. When traffic lights are red, cyclists may continue their journey uninterrupted.
2. When crossing junctions (especially when the traffic lights are red), cyclists must STAND UP on their pedals. This gives them a more threatening posture for dealing with any crossing pedestrians.
3. If cyclists are going straight ahead at a junction, the best position for this is in the right-turn only lane.
4. If a vehicle ahead of you is indicating to turn left, try to get between the vehicle and the kerb before it turns. See Rule 1.1.
5. It is not a legal requirement to have lights or reflectors on your bicycle after dark. In fact, if you can make the effort to wear black clothing as well, you are actually assisting other drivers to practice their observation skills. If they can't see you, this proves they need glasses. See Rule 1.1.
Pedestrians
1. Crossing the road. Ignore the dedicated pedestrian crossing areas; these are for wimps. Cross the road at a point best suited to you. This can have excellent results if traffic is slow-moving or at a standstill, particularly when motorcyclists are filtering between the lanes (see rule 1.1). It is great fun when crossing the road to purposely look the wrong way. Until you get to the centre of the road, keep looking left. Ignore traffic approaching from your right. Once you get to the centre of the road, look right, and ignore traffic approaching from your left; after all, you DO have right of way.*
*This only applies in countries where vehicles drive on the left. In countries where vehicles drive on the right, look right until you get to the centre of the road, then look left until you have finished crossing.
2. Junctions. Always cross the road very carefully at a junction. If you time this correctly, you will have the satisfaction of halting the traffic which is turning into the side road; this is particularly effective if the red DO NOT CROSS traffic light is illuminated.
Mar 22nd 2011, 1:32 pm
#5134
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,198
Re: OVER 50's & 60's MOVING BACK TO THE UK - Part II
Originally Posted by HighSpeedGrandma
The Highway Code 2011 (Revised edition) or "How To Drive in the UK Once You've Passed Your Test" etc.
Very good! Love it. Trouble is ... ALL of these things are happening on the roads!!
Mar 22nd 2011, 2:08 pm
#5135
BE Forum Addict
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: US
Posts: 4,224
Re: OVER 50's & 60's MOVING BACK TO THE UK - Part II
Yes things have changed.
Mar 22nd 2011, 2:57 pm
#5136
BE Forum Addict
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: US
Posts: 4,224
Re: OVER 50's & 60's MOVING BACK TO THE UK - Part II
Mar 22nd 2011, 11:29 pm
#5139
BE Forum Addict
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Back home now in my home town in England U.K. after 36 years in U.S. now retired and loving it,
Posts: 3,208
Re: OVER 50's & 60's MOVING BACK TO THE UK - Part II
Rodney, I know how you feel.
When we returned to the UK after living in Australia for 4yrs I did'nt worry about my Oz license. When we came back the girl said much the same thing 'Your license has expired by a few months so you will have to take the whole thing again'. Although I was only 35yrs I did'nt bother. Lifts to work & OH liked to drive anyway.
33yrs on & I worried about it. We did'nt live close to the City anymore. So I took lessons & road test & passed last year at aged 68yrs.
The lessons were very worthwhile. Gave me confidence & the amount of traffic had changed in all that time. Even some of the road rules.
So, take it as a challenge & go for it.
Paula
When we returned to the UK after living in Australia for 4yrs I did'nt worry about my Oz license. When we came back the girl said much the same thing 'Your license has expired by a few months so you will have to take the whole thing again'. Although I was only 35yrs I did'nt bother. Lifts to work & OH liked to drive anyway.
33yrs on & I worried about it. We did'nt live close to the City anymore. So I took lessons & road test & passed last year at aged 68yrs.
The lessons were very worthwhile. Gave me confidence & the amount of traffic had changed in all that time. Even some of the road rules.
So, take it as a challenge & go for it.
Paula
I will take your advice and take it as a challenge, after all if you did it I can do it too ---- right
Mar 22nd 2011, 11:33 pm
#5140
BE Forum Addict
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Back home now in my home town in England U.K. after 36 years in U.S. now retired and loving it,
Posts: 3,208
Re: OVER 50's & 60's MOVING BACK TO THE UK - Part II
Oh no. Awful news. It is a bugger that we have such strict rules. It's the young new drivers that cause accidents, who aren't used to driving and roads etc. Not a disparagement against all new drivers, I was a new driver too and was probably a nightmare on the roads. But you'd think that people that had driven in different countries on different roads for years and years who had already taken tests in both or all countries would have a bit more push wouldn't you!
Mar 22nd 2011, 11:35 pm
#5141
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Back home now in my home town in England U.K. after 36 years in U.S. now retired and loving it,
Posts: 3,208
Mar 22nd 2011, 11:37 pm
#5142
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Back home now in my home town in England U.K. after 36 years in U.S. now retired and loving it,
Posts: 3,208
Mar 22nd 2011, 11:38 pm
#5143
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Back home now in my home town in England U.K. after 36 years in U.S. now retired and loving it,
Posts: 3,208
Mar 23rd 2011, 12:02 am
#5144
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Location: Back home now in my home town in England U.K. after 36 years in U.S. now retired and loving it,
Posts: 3,208
Re: OVER 50's & 60's MOVING BACK TO THE UK - Part II
Hi Rodders,
I am so sorry that you have to start from scratch on this. It doesn't seem fair, but I suppose if, for example, if I were to let my American driving license expire (I think it's good until 2017 or something like that), the same thing would happen to me if I were to return to America to live. It would be annoying!
It's a good lesson for all of us to learn, though ... pay attention to expiration dates and then do whatever is necessary to renew. I'm assuming your licence could have been renewed by mail? (I think that's what Tony did when he was living in the States. He had his Mum and Dad take care of it from over here.)
Anyway, don't stress over it, Rodney. You will done just fine. Yes, I passed my Theory Test first time but I did quite a bit of study. You might not need as much, but I would highly recommend that you get the most current copy of The Highway Code and read it from front to back and remember everything because the test questions relate directly to the Highway Code.
The second part of the Theory Test - the Hazard Perception Test - is a bit more trickly. It consists of 14 video clips that put you 'behind the wheel' driving through a variety of settings: countryside, city centre, housing areas, etc. etc. It's almost like a video game: you have to click the mouse every time you see a potential hazard; then you have to click the mouse again as the hazard develops; then you have to click the mouse again when you actually have to take action to avoid the hazard.
Of course, you have no idea how well you are doing on the test until it's over. And the scoring is tricky - it's not as easy as clicking on a hazard. Even though there may be several hazards in each video clip, they are looking for a particular one and you won't score the requisite number of points if you don't identify the right one.
I passed my Theory Test the first time and it was indeed £31. I was issued a Pass Certificate and it is good for 2 years. You cannot book the Practical driving test until you have passed the Theory test.
I will be taking my Practical in June and it cost £62 because I am taking it on a weekday. Week-end rates are slightly higher.
The Practical test lasts 40 minutes. There is a short 'show me, tell me' where you will be asked a question like, for example, 'Show me where you would change the windscreen fluid' or some such thing. Then you take the driving test which, at some point, will include 10 minutes of what they call 'independent driving' where they will say, for example, 'Now I want you to follow the signs to Egham' and you are on your own with no instructions from the examiner. My instructor told me that they aren't testing whether or not you can follow directions per se, they are looking to see how will you handle driving without being prompted (by the instructor) of what to do.
You are allowed up to 15 minor faults on the test. A minor driving fault is any silly little mistake you commit during your test.
Everyone is different, Rodney, and a lot of expats on this forum feel very self-confident about returning home and driving even after being away for years and years and years, but here's what the AA says:
In the last 10 years, roads, signs, speed limits and the volume of traffic on UK roads have all changed dramatically. Driving lessons and the driving test have had to change to help new drivers cope with more potentially hazardous driving conditions.
For new drivers or those having to take the test, it's not enough to just know how to drive - it's knowing how to pass the test. The examiners are looking for very specific things - for example, the MSM routine, and the POM routine. All of us experienced drivers, for example, use our mirrors but in order to pass the test, there are absolute, certain ways that those mirrors must be used ... or it will be counted as a fault.
I have been really pleased with my AA instructor. He knows exactly what the driving examiner is going to be looking for and he instructs me accordingly. It's expensive, but that's what it's going to take in order to pass the test.
I'm not trying to scare you, Rodney, but the more you know the better equipped you will be.
The best thing you can do is invest in the most recent Highway Code or, even better, one with a DVD with samples of the hazard perception test (so you can get used to it) and mock tests. This is the one I used http://amzn.to/g846Lb and am still using. I think it's the best one out there.
Good luck to you Rodney!
I am so sorry that you have to start from scratch on this. It doesn't seem fair, but I suppose if, for example, if I were to let my American driving license expire (I think it's good until 2017 or something like that), the same thing would happen to me if I were to return to America to live. It would be annoying!
It's a good lesson for all of us to learn, though ... pay attention to expiration dates and then do whatever is necessary to renew. I'm assuming your licence could have been renewed by mail? (I think that's what Tony did when he was living in the States. He had his Mum and Dad take care of it from over here.)
Anyway, don't stress over it, Rodney. You will done just fine. Yes, I passed my Theory Test first time but I did quite a bit of study. You might not need as much, but I would highly recommend that you get the most current copy of The Highway Code and read it from front to back and remember everything because the test questions relate directly to the Highway Code.
The second part of the Theory Test - the Hazard Perception Test - is a bit more trickly. It consists of 14 video clips that put you 'behind the wheel' driving through a variety of settings: countryside, city centre, housing areas, etc. etc. It's almost like a video game: you have to click the mouse every time you see a potential hazard; then you have to click the mouse again as the hazard develops; then you have to click the mouse again when you actually have to take action to avoid the hazard.
Of course, you have no idea how well you are doing on the test until it's over. And the scoring is tricky - it's not as easy as clicking on a hazard. Even though there may be several hazards in each video clip, they are looking for a particular one and you won't score the requisite number of points if you don't identify the right one.
I passed my Theory Test the first time and it was indeed £31. I was issued a Pass Certificate and it is good for 2 years. You cannot book the Practical driving test until you have passed the Theory test.
I will be taking my Practical in June and it cost £62 because I am taking it on a weekday. Week-end rates are slightly higher.
The Practical test lasts 40 minutes. There is a short 'show me, tell me' where you will be asked a question like, for example, 'Show me where you would change the windscreen fluid' or some such thing. Then you take the driving test which, at some point, will include 10 minutes of what they call 'independent driving' where they will say, for example, 'Now I want you to follow the signs to Egham' and you are on your own with no instructions from the examiner. My instructor told me that they aren't testing whether or not you can follow directions per se, they are looking to see how will you handle driving without being prompted (by the instructor) of what to do.
You are allowed up to 15 minor faults on the test. A minor driving fault is any silly little mistake you commit during your test.
Everyone is different, Rodney, and a lot of expats on this forum feel very self-confident about returning home and driving even after being away for years and years and years, but here's what the AA says:
In the last 10 years, roads, signs, speed limits and the volume of traffic on UK roads have all changed dramatically. Driving lessons and the driving test have had to change to help new drivers cope with more potentially hazardous driving conditions.
For new drivers or those having to take the test, it's not enough to just know how to drive - it's knowing how to pass the test. The examiners are looking for very specific things - for example, the MSM routine, and the POM routine. All of us experienced drivers, for example, use our mirrors but in order to pass the test, there are absolute, certain ways that those mirrors must be used ... or it will be counted as a fault.
I have been really pleased with my AA instructor. He knows exactly what the driving examiner is going to be looking for and he instructs me accordingly. It's expensive, but that's what it's going to take in order to pass the test.
I'm not trying to scare you, Rodney, but the more you know the better equipped you will be.
The best thing you can do is invest in the most recent Highway Code or, even better, one with a DVD with samples of the hazard perception test (so you can get used to it) and mock tests. This is the one I used http://amzn.to/g846Lb and am still using. I think it's the best one out there.
Good luck to you Rodney!
Thank you for taking the time to reply to my post, I apappreciatet a lot, and thanks for all the tips and advice, do you mind telling me how much your AA driving Instructor charges for each lesson, and also how long are the lessons maybe an hour?
Also how many lessons are you going to have, or how many you think you may need?
You know Denise about 15 years ago I took a little break and left Nevada and went up north to Alaska and drove cab there for 6 months, and I had to pass a special cabbie theory test on the cocomputerI studied the road laws and other things a cabbie needs to know and there were 100 questions then --- and you needed to get 93 right, and I got 96 right and passed, and that was quite hard so if I can pass that one I can pass this one
Mar 23rd 2011, 12:20 am
#5145
BE Forum Addict
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Back home now in my home town in England U.K. after 36 years in U.S. now retired and loving it,
Posts: 3,208
Re: OVER 50's & 60's MOVING BACK TO THE UK - Part II
Hello Everyone,
Just thought I would let you all know that my Sister Barbara passed away this evening at 7pm in Plymouth, Mum and I did not have a chance to see her again, she took a change for the worse all of a sudden and this morning the Doctors said that she probably wont last through the day, when they say that you always want them to be wrong, but they were right,
Thank you all for all your kind words and sympathy over the past few months since she was diagnosed with lung cancer,
She turned 69 on February 22nd and she died today on March 22nd,
Thank you all,
Rodney.
Just thought I would let you all know that my Sister Barbara passed away this evening at 7pm in Plymouth, Mum and I did not have a chance to see her again, she took a change for the worse all of a sudden and this morning the Doctors said that she probably wont last through the day, when they say that you always want them to be wrong, but they were right,
Thank you all for all your kind words and sympathy over the past few months since she was diagnosed with lung cancer,
She turned 69 on February 22nd and she died today on March 22nd,
Thank you all,
Rodney.