220 volts for a garage?
#16
Re: 220 volts for a garage?
To further complicate things...
A Canadian 220V circuit is THREE wire - earth, live (1) and live (2)...there is no 'neutral' as we would understand it in the UK. The 220V house supply is actually two separate 110V supplies that are out of phase with respect to each other (ie: one is 'negative' and one is 'positive' and this changes 60 times per second)
In theory, a UK 240V, single phase appliance could be made to work - the connections would be live 1 (120V) to 'live' and live 2 (120V) to 'neutral' but this can ONLY be used with double-insulated gear that does NOT use a path to the earth via any part of the appliance casing. Admittedly, such gear is almost non-existent these days, but...
Have a competent, licensed sparky check it out.
A Canadian 220V circuit is THREE wire - earth, live (1) and live (2)...there is no 'neutral' as we would understand it in the UK. The 220V house supply is actually two separate 110V supplies that are out of phase with respect to each other (ie: one is 'negative' and one is 'positive' and this changes 60 times per second)
In theory, a UK 240V, single phase appliance could be made to work - the connections would be live 1 (120V) to 'live' and live 2 (120V) to 'neutral' but this can ONLY be used with double-insulated gear that does NOT use a path to the earth via any part of the appliance casing. Admittedly, such gear is almost non-existent these days, but...
Have a competent, licensed sparky check it out.
#17
Re: 220 volts for a garage?
It used to be the case that you were'nt allowed to bring welders with you, I don't know if that is still correct.
#18
Forum Regular
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 118
Re: 220 volts for a garage?
To further complicate things...
A Canadian 220V circuit is THREE wire - earth, live (1) and live (2)...there is no 'neutral' as we would understand it in the UK. The 220V house supply is actually two separate 110V supplies that are out of phase with respect to each other (ie: one is 'negative' and one is 'positive' and this changes 60 times per second)
In theory, a UK 240V, single phase appliance could be made to work - the connections would be live 1 (120V) to 'live' and live 2 (120V) to 'neutral' but this can ONLY be used with double-insulated gear that does NOT use a path to the earth via any part of the appliance casing. Admittedly, such gear is almost non-existent these days, but...
Have a competent, licensed sparky check it out.
A Canadian 220V circuit is THREE wire - earth, live (1) and live (2)...there is no 'neutral' as we would understand it in the UK. The 220V house supply is actually two separate 110V supplies that are out of phase with respect to each other (ie: one is 'negative' and one is 'positive' and this changes 60 times per second)
In theory, a UK 240V, single phase appliance could be made to work - the connections would be live 1 (120V) to 'live' and live 2 (120V) to 'neutral' but this can ONLY be used with double-insulated gear that does NOT use a path to the earth via any part of the appliance casing. Admittedly, such gear is almost non-existent these days, but...
Have a competent, licensed sparky check it out.
#19
Slob
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Ottineau
Posts: 6,342
Re: 220 volts for a garage?
I would dearly love to have 220V in my garage, so I can get some heating in there. Doing DIY in there when it's -20 is not funny. I did investigate the possibility of a 220 line but our panel is full. Changing it would cost chunks. That's what a sparky told me. He wasn't a contractor but a mate doing some work for free, so I'm inclined to believe him.
#20
Re: 220 volts for a garage?
In the UK, the 240V supply is with respect to earth - that is, you get 240V on ONE wire if you allow the electricity to flow to earth (via a 'neutral' wire or your body) once it has done it's job.
In Canadian 220V, there is no neutral - just two live wires. This means that one side of the device/appliance is ALWAYS at 110v with respect to earth...a very different situation to the UK and potentially more dangerous.
#21
Re: 220 volts for a garage?
I think you mean AC - alternating current - perhaps? Domestic power is not direct current (DC) - hasn't been for 90 years - but alternating current (AC).
In the UK, the 240V supply is with respect to earth - that is, you get 240V on ONE wire if you allow the electricity to flow to earth (via a 'neutral' wire or your body) once it has done it's job.
In Canadian 220V, there is no neutral - just two live wires. This means that one side of the device/appliance is ALWAYS at 110v with respect to earth...a very different situation to the UK and potentially more dangerous.
In the UK, the 240V supply is with respect to earth - that is, you get 240V on ONE wire if you allow the electricity to flow to earth (via a 'neutral' wire or your body) once it has done it's job.
In Canadian 220V, there is no neutral - just two live wires. This means that one side of the device/appliance is ALWAYS at 110v with respect to earth...a very different situation to the UK and potentially more dangerous.
I appreciate that most welders don't require a neutral phase, but in my own house I'd insist on a neutral conductor being run to a 240v outlet, if it's new work. It can always be capped if the appliance requires a 3-wire connection, and it means you can change the receptacle later if required without pulling new cable.
I suppose I should add - I have no professional or trade certification to support my comments. This is simply my understanding as an amateur.
Last edited by Oakvillian; Apr 24th 2012 at 1:36 pm.
#22
Slob
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Ottineau
Posts: 6,342
Re: 220 volts for a garage?
doesn't this depend on the application? Most dryers and ranges here have four wires, for example: two hot (one for each of two 120v phases), one ground, and a 'floating neutral.' The neutral is vital if the appliance uses a 120v circuit for, for example, a light or a timer. The idea of a floating neutral is not common in single-phase 240v wiring in the UK. It is never a good idea to tie the neutral to ground downstream of the main breaker panel: in my (limited) understanding it's against code pretty much everywhere.
I appreciate that most welders don't require a neutral phase, but in my own house I'd insist on a neutral conductor being run to a 240v outlet, if it's new work. It can always be capped if the appliance requires a 3-wire connection, and it means you can change the receptacle later if required without pulling new cable.
I suppose I should add - I have no professional or trade certification to support my comments. This is simply my understanding as an amateur.
I appreciate that most welders don't require a neutral phase, but in my own house I'd insist on a neutral conductor being run to a 240v outlet, if it's new work. It can always be capped if the appliance requires a 3-wire connection, and it means you can change the receptacle later if required without pulling new cable.
I suppose I should add - I have no professional or trade certification to support my comments. This is simply my understanding as an amateur.