Bone Question about Gravelled Dirt Driveway
Apr 28th 2007, 11:39 am
#16
Lost in BE Cyberspace
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Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Hill overlooking the SE Melbourne suburbs
Posts: 16,622
Re: Bone Question about Gravelled Dirt Driveway
Gravel does look nice when it's on a straight, level base - and it's freshly laid.
But it does migrate quite rapidly - no DIMIA to worry about <g> -and is a pain to maintain.
You would be amazed how even a wide bend will make the stuff pile up on the outside every time a vehicle passes. In the UK I spent hours just raking the stuff back to the inside of the bends, and barrowing it to the top from the gate end. Mrs Wol loves gravel - but she doesn't do barrowing or raking.........
But it does migrate quite rapidly - no DIMIA to worry about <g> -and is a pain to maintain.
You would be amazed how even a wide bend will make the stuff pile up on the outside every time a vehicle passes. In the UK I spent hours just raking the stuff back to the inside of the bends, and barrowing it to the top from the gate end. Mrs Wol loves gravel - but she doesn't do barrowing or raking.........
Well 2 cubic metres has been spread around and it looks great.I only wish I'd got the bloke to dump it in 2 locations as I had to ferry barrows over to another spot.
My back and stomach is as tight as a drum now.
Last edited by BadgeIsBack; Apr 28th 2007 at 11:42 am.
Apr 28th 2007, 5:26 pm
#17
Victorian Evangelist
Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Melbourne, by the beach, living the dream.
Posts: 7,704
Re: Bone Question about Gravelled Dirt Driveway
I'll give you a hand with the next lot - you'll probably need it in a few months!
Buzzy
Buzzy
Apr 28th 2007, 6:23 pm
#18
Lost in BE Cyberspace
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Hill overlooking the SE Melbourne suburbs
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Apr 28th 2007, 6:41 pm
#19
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,376
Re: Bone Question about Gravelled Dirt Driveway
Hi
After a few years of wear, and a few renos, our poor old driveway and parking area is getting muddy and eroded in places.
I'm thinking of getting a few tonne of gravel delivered and spreading it around.
A few points
i) I know not to get the fine stuff - it beds in to tyre treads - and vehicles sink into it if it's deep enough. I know to get some reasonably big stuff -20mm? which compacts down with the vehicles. I could try and roll it but I can't be bothered.
iii) I don't think I need roadbase or any of the hard stuff underneath as this has already been done, all I am doing is repairing the top layer.
Any thoughts?
B
After a few years of wear, and a few renos, our poor old driveway and parking area is getting muddy and eroded in places.
I'm thinking of getting a few tonne of gravel delivered and spreading it around.
A few points
i) I know not to get the fine stuff - it beds in to tyre treads - and vehicles sink into it if it's deep enough. I know to get some reasonably big stuff -20mm? which compacts down with the vehicles. I could try and roll it but I can't be bothered.
iii) I don't think I need roadbase or any of the hard stuff underneath as this has already been done, all I am doing is repairing the top layer.
Any thoughts?
B
The way they work is as follows:
1. Dig up old base, usually to a depth of about half a foot (depending on type of drive to be laid)
2. Edge drive with kerbstones or edging blocks - these are laid onto a base of 'lean mix' or dry mortar and ballast to you and me.
3. Lay a weedproofing sheet across entire area to be laid.
4. Have a load of 'sub base' delivered. We use something called 'type 1 crushed concrete'. Basically this is hardcore that has been ran through a crusher to a grade of 40mm - dust. This is then 'whackered' down to form a flat, even base. If you are really posh you can use type 1 limestone or limestone scalpings (more expensive but firmer and more reliable).
5. You now have a nice edged base to work with. Just add a layer of gravel to it and away you go. As you rightly said the grade of gravel is very important, not too small and not too big. Also make sure it is crushed and not rounded - stops it moving around so much.
An alternative to the gravelling is 'tar & chipping' - basically a layer of hot tar is sprayed onto the base and the gravel (or chip) is applied to this. This gives you the loook of gravel but with the added benefit of it staying put!
Obviously, the aggregates we use here will be different in OZ, not too sure what's what there, but sure a local supplier would be able to give you some idea.
HTH!
Apr 28th 2007, 6:57 pm
#20
Lost in BE Cyberspace
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Hill overlooking the SE Melbourne suburbs
Posts: 16,622
Re: Bone Question about Gravelled Dirt Driveway
Ah! An area I know something about! The company I work for has a driveways division and I do a lot of work with them (muck-away etc...)
The way they work is as follows:
1. Dig up old base, usually to a depth of about half a foot (depending on type of drive to be laid)
2. Edge drive with kerbstones or edging blocks - these are laid onto a base of 'lean mix' or dry mortar and ballast to you and me.
3. Lay a weedproofing sheet across entire area to be laid.
4. Have a load of 'sub base' delivered. We use something called 'type 1 crushed concrete'. Basically this is hardcore that has been ran through a crusher to a grade of 40mm - dust. This is then 'whackered' down to form a flat, even base. If you are really posh you can use type 1 limestone or limestone scalpings (more expensive but firmer and more reliable).
5. You now have a nice edged base to work with. Just add a layer of gravel to it and away you go. As you rightly said the grade of gravel is very important, not too small and not too big. Also make sure it is crushed and not rounded - stops it moving around so much.
An alternative to the gravelling is 'tar & chipping' - basically a layer of hot tar is sprayed onto the base and the gravel (or chip) is applied to this. This gives you the loook of gravel but with the added benefit of it staying put!
Obviously, the aggregates we use here will be different in OZ, not too sure what's what there, but sure a local supplier would be able to give you some idea.
HTH!
The way they work is as follows:
1. Dig up old base, usually to a depth of about half a foot (depending on type of drive to be laid)
2. Edge drive with kerbstones or edging blocks - these are laid onto a base of 'lean mix' or dry mortar and ballast to you and me.
3. Lay a weedproofing sheet across entire area to be laid.
4. Have a load of 'sub base' delivered. We use something called 'type 1 crushed concrete'. Basically this is hardcore that has been ran through a crusher to a grade of 40mm - dust. This is then 'whackered' down to form a flat, even base. If you are really posh you can use type 1 limestone or limestone scalpings (more expensive but firmer and more reliable).
5. You now have a nice edged base to work with. Just add a layer of gravel to it and away you go. As you rightly said the grade of gravel is very important, not too small and not too big. Also make sure it is crushed and not rounded - stops it moving around so much.
An alternative to the gravelling is 'tar & chipping' - basically a layer of hot tar is sprayed onto the base and the gravel (or chip) is applied to this. This gives you the loook of gravel but with the added benefit of it staying put!
Obviously, the aggregates we use here will be different in OZ, not too sure what's what there, but sure a local supplier would be able to give you some idea.
HTH!
Airborne easy...
