Water heater replacement
Hi all,
Did not want to hijack another thread entirely. First quote: 80 gallon unit, 8 year warranty plus 10 feet of exhaust pipe to get to code, quoted at $4500, inclusive of labor, equipment and warranty. My question is, is this reasonable?? I was expecting ~3000 |
Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by PetrifiedExPat
(Post 13125332)
Hi all,
Did not want to hijack another thread entirely. First quote: 80 gallon unit, 8 year warranty plus 10 feet of exhaust pipe to get to code, quoted at $4500, inclusive of labor, equipment and warranty. My question is, is this reasonable?? I was expecting ~3000 |
Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by PetrifiedExPat
(Post 13125332)
Hi all,
Did not want to hijack another thread entirely. First quote: 80 gallon unit, 8 year warranty plus 10 feet of exhaust pipe to get to code, quoted at $4500, inclusive of labor, equipment and warranty. My question is, is this reasonable?? I was expecting ~3000 Now if your talking about gas it gets way more expensive, my boiler and water heater replacement was $12k+ back in 2015 in Lower FFC CT, so likely more now. How much is the unit, is it more or less than 50% of the quote? |
Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by tht
(Post 13125354)
.... Now if your talking about gas it gets way more expensive, ....
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by Pulaski
(Post 13125383)
He is talking about gas, unless you can think of a reason why an electric water heater would require (per post #1) "... 10 feet of exhaust pipe to get to code". :unsure:
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Re: Water heater replacement
I paid $1500 for a 40 Gallon tank in 2015. The tank is in my garage though so that reduces the labor cost somewhat. Here is NC we have quite alot of houses that have their tank in the attic and that pushes labor cost up quite a bit.
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by Pulaski
(Post 13125383)
He is talking about gas, unless you can think of a reason why an electric water heater would require (per post #1) "... 10 feet of exhaust pipe to get to code". :unsure:
I wanted to go with one of these but they are take than the space I have in the existing space : https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-Pe...45U0/312742081 |
Re: Water heater replacement
Limited info on the quote (getting a second one also). Gas water heater, 78 gallons, 8 year warranty and ten feet of exhaust pipe to get to code. That is it (inc labor).
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by PetrifiedExPat
(Post 13125409)
Limited info on the quote (getting a second one also). Gas water heater, 78 gallons, 8 year warranty and ten feet of exhaust pipe to get to code. That is it (inc labor).
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by PetrifiedExPat
(Post 13125409)
Limited info on the quote (getting a second one also). Gas water heater, 78 gallons, 8 year warranty and ten feet of exhaust pipe to get to code. That is it (inc labor).
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by SpoogleDrummer
(Post 13125428)
Do they mention the brand and model of the water heater? With some of them the warranty isn't worth the paper it's written on. Not to mention they vary wildly in price.
* A warranty is just a bet by the manufacturer that their product will last that long, and they're unlikely to offer to make that bet if they don't expect to win it. Even without replacing the anode rod, round here (NC) water heaters seem to typically last around 25 years. On the broader issue of domestic appliances, I have only ever had one, a washing machine, fail within the five year extended warranty period, which confirms my strategy of never buying an extended warranty on a domestic appliance . Even after unexpectedly having to buy another washing machine, I believe I am still "up" by somewhere around $4k-$5k by not buying extended warranties. :thumbsup: |
Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by PetrifiedExPat
(Post 13125332)
Hi all,
Did not want to hijack another thread entirely. First quote: 80 gallon unit, 8 year warranty plus 10 feet of exhaust pipe to get to code, quoted at $4500, inclusive of labor, equipment and warranty. My question is, is this reasonable?? I was expecting ~3000 |
Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by PetrifiedExPat
(Post 13125332)
Hi all,
Did not want to hijack another thread entirely. First quote: 80 gallon unit, 8 year warranty plus 10 feet of exhaust pipe to get to code, quoted at $4500, inclusive of labor, equipment and warranty. My question is, is this reasonable?? I was expecting ~3000 |
Re: Water heater replacement
Stored water heater as opposed to tankless??
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by Mic1
(Post 13125714)
Stored water heater as opposed to tankless??
Our zip code doesnt help either |
Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by Mic1
(Post 13125714)
Stored water heater as opposed to tankless??
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by tht
(Post 13125719)
an 80 gallon tankless…. 🥺
Also, I suspect I will raise getting a smaller tank on Friday! |
Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by PetrifiedExPat
(Post 13125722)
I havnt googled it yet ;)
Also, I suspect I will raise getting a smaller tank on Friday! |
Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by tht
(Post 13125728)
I would definitely ask about the exact model, may they have marked it up a lot and don’t want you to be able to to google it… or maybe they are trying to install something they have in stock they want to get rid of. 80 gallon would be what I would expect if it was a townhouse with 1 or 2 smaller income properties in the basement etc and it was to service all 2/3 units not a normal size family property with 2-2.5 baths.
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by tht
(Post 13125728)
... or maybe they are trying to install something they have in stock they want to get rid of. .
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Re: Water heater replacement
The best way to compare prices is to learn what a water heater should cost. I would go with a 50 to 60 gallon and check with a couple plumbing supply places for model info and prices. Most are made by AO Smith and names stuck on for various companies.
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by ddsrph
(Post 13125756)
.... and check with a couple plumbing supply places for model info and prices.
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by tht
(Post 13125719)
an 80 gallon tankless…. 🥺
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by Mic1
(Post 13125763)
No, I'm surprised that no one has mentioned a tankless water heater, Far more efficient,
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by Mic1
(Post 13125763)
No, I'm surprised that no one has mentioned a tankless water heater, Far more efficient,
Not sure that I would say “far more efficient” I think it was a TriangleTube I looked at has a thermal efficiency of 95% vs the combined GV90+ boiler for heat and hot water at 91%, and there was some more efficiency have 1 vs 2 separate boilers… the oil boiler it replaced was more than 35 years old and still going strong, but the incentives to go to gas made it a no brainer have everything new. Once we get solar on this house will look at a heat pump electric water heater. |
Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by Pulaski
(Post 13125766)
Loathsome creations. .... They are perhaps a little more efficient, but they create their own issues, running very hot, and then cold. They seemed to be super-fashionable around 10 years ago, but barely got a mention when I was shopping for a new water heater last year.
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by Pulaski
(Post 13125766)
Loathsome creations. .... They are perhaps a little more efficient, but they create their own issues, running very hot, and then cold. They seemed to be super-fashionable around 10 years ago, but barely got a mention when I was shopping for a new water heater last year.
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by ddsrph
(Post 13125774)
Plus you need a lot of power to run which means hard to retrofit due to number of slots needed in service panel. I believe they require two 220 volt circuits which is 4 spaces. Lowe’s has a lot of AO Smith gas water heaters on their site. Most are 40 or 50 gallon and around $800. Gas tankless of course would be easier and may be more reasonable as a choice as they may work better than electric
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by Mic1
(Post 13125777)
Actually not loathsome creations as long as you chose a reputable brand but more importantly, you pull in a plumber who knows what he's doing and matches a heater to your incoming gas and water supply. As long as they are set up properly, the flame will modulate down and prevent the water going cold mid flow. If it does, 99% of the time, high/low gas rates have not been set up.
I was thinking, after I made my previous post above, that during the summer months, basically April to October for us, the only gas we use is to heat water, and our gas bill is about $25-$30, of which about $10 is the standing charge, so hotwater costs us about $20/mth. How much more efficient does a tankless heater have to be to make it noticeably more efficient in $$$s? Personally I value being able to turn on the tap and have a steady flow of hot water at a predictable temperature, and I think that $20/mth is a reasonable price to pay for that comfort and certainty. So, even if a tankless heater provided FREE hot water, I'd still choose a traditional water heater with a tank. :nod: |
Re: Water heater replacement
80 gallons! Wow! OK, only 2 of us and just one bathroom but ours is just 80 Litres - and is quite adequate! How heavy is an 80 gallon tank / heater? (I could Google it but Mr P will give me a much better answer!).
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by Expatrick
(Post 13125806)
80 gallons! Wow! OK, only 2 of us and just one bathroom but ours is just 80 Litres - and is quite adequate! How heavy is an 80 gallon tank / heater? (I could Google it but Mr P will give me a much better answer!).
Well off the top of my head, for an 80gal water heater there would be about 665lb of water, and probably about 100lb for the tank, for a total of about just about 350 Kommigrams. :) ETA. Apparently an 80gal water heater from AO Smith weighs 175lb, so that would make a total of 840lb or 385 Kommigrams. |
Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by Pulaski
(Post 13125811)
:p
Well off the top of my head, for an 80gal water heater there would be about 665lb of water, and probably about 100lb for the tank, for a total of about just about 350 Kommigrams. :) ETA. Apparently an 80gal water heater from AO Smith weighs 175lb, so that would make a total of 840lb or 385 Kommigrams. |
Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by Expatrick
(Post 13125806)
80 gallons! Wow! OK, only 2 of us and just one bathroom but ours is just 80 Litres - and is quite adequate! How heavy is an 80 gallon tank / heater? (I could Google it but Mr P will give me a much better answer!).
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/british...103b3d8fa8.jpg |
Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by ddsrph
(Post 13125833)
I installed only a 30 gallon in the house I built 5 years ago. Electric tank type and plenty for two people. Does posters have an expansion tank in their hot water heaters? I put one on mine as I discovered their existence doing research on plumbing when doing my house. The theory is during the heating of the water it expands and with almost all water systems there is a back flow preventer valve at the meter and the this pressure has no where to go. Can lead to premature tank failure especially if the anode is not looked after. Here is my expansion tank as I installed.
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by sid nv
(Post 13125860)
Installation looks fine to me, but does it have the cat's approval?
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by ddsrph
(Post 13125833)
I installed only a 30 gallon in the house I built 5 years ago. Electric tank type and plenty for two people. Does posters have an expansion tank in their hot water heaters? I put one on mine as I discovered their existence doing research on plumbing when doing my house. The theory is during the heating of the water it expands and with almost all water systems there is a back flow preventer valve at the meter and the this pressure has no where to go. Can lead to premature tank failure especially if the anode is not looked after. Here is my expansion tank as I installed.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/british...103b3d8fa8.jpg Temperature/pressure relief valve discharge should terminate outside or into a sealed internal drain. If that TPRV blows, it could vent almost boiling water at 10 bar......be too much for that drip tray to handle. Be careful. |
Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by Mic1
(Post 13125918)
Temperature/pressure relief valve discharge should terminate outside or into a sealed internal drain. If that TPRV blows, it could vent almost boiling water at 10 bar......be too much for that drip tray to handle. Be careful.
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by ddsrph
(Post 13125922)
That’s a good point. I could probably run a hose to the drip tray drain line with a one way valve to prevent the flow from going into tray. I will look into that.
It is usual in my experience to just have the pipe from the relief run down to the drip tray, as a working relief valve should never do more than dribble a bit. The whole purpose of the valve is to stop pressure build up, not allow it to build up to a dangerous degree, then let go dramatically! If the valve "fails" by seizing and not allowing excess pressure to be released then all bets are off and where the water would have drained if the valve had worked properly will be the least of your problems, but if you watched Mythbusters you already know that. :blink: So the main takeaway from this discussion is to test the valve regularly - I think the usual recommendation is every six months. |
Re: Water heater replacement
I had some time this morning and have bought the items needed to run a pipe down to the drip pan drain. I remember now that at my other house I did similar. My drip pan is connected not to the house drain but to a 3 inch pvc pipe that runs to attic for a radon pump. Below this three inch pipe connects to a inside foundation complete perimeter French drain that is under the slab gravel backfill that varies from 2 to 5 feet of gravel.
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Re: Water heater replacement
Originally Posted by Pulaski
(Post 13125971)
It is usual in my experience to just have the pipe from the relief run down to the drip tray, as a working relief valve should never do more than dribble a bit.
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