Wiring electronic relays
#16
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What does that suggest please?
Note:- This is with a 240v 40w bulb. Tried it with new energy saving lamp (11w) and the contact chatter was the same as before.
Last edited by Countryboy1; Jul 21st 2013 at 4:12 am.
#18
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Maybe my question, rather than asking what it suggests having wired in a lamp which helped with my problem, I should have asked "In very simple terms, what can I now do about it as an alternative to keeping a lamp wired in"?
#19










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Now you've lost me I'm afraid!
There are only 4 connections. A1 A2 for the coil input and M1 & M2 for the output. Don't know about +ve or -ve! Beyond my scope of knowledge.
As for the chattering "caused by the motor starting up...". Do you mean a motor in the relay? I didn't think there was a motor in there! If that's not what you mean, then I can't understand why the contact chattering happens when no load is attached to the relay and the only input is 230v to the coil from the remote sender which causes the contacts to go crazy, whereas a straight mains lead doesn't.
Thanks.
There are only 4 connections. A1 A2 for the coil input and M1 & M2 for the output. Don't know about +ve or -ve! Beyond my scope of knowledge.
As for the chattering "caused by the motor starting up...". Do you mean a motor in the relay? I didn't think there was a motor in there! If that's not what you mean, then I can't understand why the contact chattering happens when no load is attached to the relay and the only input is 230v to the coil from the remote sender which causes the contacts to go crazy, whereas a straight mains lead doesn't.
Thanks.
the remote device should be switching the relay on/off at the A1/A2
there is no motor in the relay, but I am talking about the motor you are switching on/off via the relay. although this may be rated at 300w constant running load when it first starts up it will, for a few milliseconds or more pull an initial load far in excess of the 300w. This is called "current inrush". That is why sometimes the wrong fuse fitted can keep blowing. or a relay will chatter as it tries to protect itself due to too much initial load, which evens out once the item settles down...
you need an electrician, cost about €40/hr with a bit of luck no more than an hour.
`
#20










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What's that, part of an Open University course? Way, Way above my level Fred!
Maybe my question, rather than asking what it suggests having wired in a lamp which helped with my problem, I should have asked "In very simple terms, what can I now do about it as an alternative to keeping a lamp wired in"?

Maybe my question, rather than asking what it suggests having wired in a lamp which helped with my problem, I should have asked "In very simple terms, what can I now do about it as an alternative to keeping a lamp wired in"?

and an ordinary twisted wire lamp is not the same as a power saving lamp which is actually a form of fluorescent. which is why old style dimmers are not recommended for use with these new power savers.
#21
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Your initial thought might be right Biffta.You will find that if you have a pulsing supply a relay will most of the times pick up this up by.A lamp or a fan might not pick this up...As if you are on the down pulse the lamp might not have time to go dim before its back on the up cycle also the fan might just keep on turning bit slower but maybe not enough for you to notice.
#22
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I wonder if this relay is 'chattering' at 50 cycles per second

40 Euro's an hour for an electrician expensive......the 'value' of a life ?.....priceless
Last edited by Hino; Jul 22nd 2013 at 12:31 am.
#23
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Perhaps the supply to the coil is mistakenly connected to the normally closed output of the relay contacts? This would disconnect the coil supply as soon as the relay is engaged, disengaging the relay which re-energises the coil, resulting in endless chatter.
#24
If your remote controller is digital then it may not be supplying a sinusoidal input which your relay primary expects. It may be providing a pulsed signal instead, the effect that a light bulb in the circuit may be that because of its reluctance (qv inductance too) it is providing sufficient smoothing of the signal to operate the relay correctly. Pure speculation. You may need to put some sort of ?reactive/capacitive ballast? (damn I can't remember the right word) in the circuit to replace the bulb.
Last edited by MikeJ; Jul 22nd 2013 at 3:44 am.
#25
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If your remote controller is digital then it may not be supplying a sinusoidal input which your relay primary expects. It may be providing a pulsed signal instead, the effect that a light bulb in the circuit may be that because of its reluctance (qv inductance too) it is providing sufficient smoothing of the signal to operate the relay correctly. Pure speculation.
After much sweating, I've decided to abandon the idea, much to the relief of my wife.
If nothing else I've learned about relays and their uses so it's not all been in vain.
A very big thank you to all who have advised me in this matter.




