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- - Suits (https://britishexpats.com/forum/sand-pit-116/suits-898303/)

I had one made by a "recommended" Indian tailor in AD, and it was shite. My suggestions:

1 Only act on recommendations from someone you absolutely trust, and preferably after seeing the suit he's had made.

2 Obviously fit and fabric are vital, but details make the difference between meh and wow. Lining: something subtle but not bland. Pockets: don't ever use external coat (the upper half of a suit is a coat, not a jacket) pockets, except the one for your pocket square (silk hanky) -- using them will destroy the shape of the coat; maybe not even have them as pockets, just have the flaps. Inside pockets: the detailing around them is important -- if a tailor pays attention there, he'll pay attention everywhere. And there should be several. Buttons: the number (on both the front of the coat and on the sleeves) will be determined by the style of the suit, but also pay attention to the colour/pattern of the buttons themselves. Visible stitching: this must be top-notch otherwise the suit will scream "cheap".

3 Fabric: Take some in your palm and then scrunch it tightly in your fist for about 20 seconds -- if its creased after that, forget it. That probably means going for an expensive wool, or a modern wool/synthetic mix. Silk mixed in can help, but then things start to get pricey.

4 Style: A good tailor should be able to recommend what best fits your body shape, but maybe first look through some decent mens fashion magazines and identify what style you want.

5 Colour: Pretty much up to you. I like silver/grey, especially in the heat, and it always looks smart.

6 Accessories: Cufflinks with two faces joined by a chain are probably the classiest. Pocket square: it shouldn't match your tie! Learn how to fold it properly (lots of resources online).

Damn, I've not worn a suit for 4 1/2 years...

Edit: Just seen Scamp's post -- my sons have TM Lewin suits, and yeah, they're pretty good. Shirts too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bahtatboy (Post 12277469)

dayummm i've learned something new here....nice one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scamp (Post 12277460)

So my queries are:

1. What style should I be looking at bearing in mind it has to be a bit timeless as I won't be buying another for a few years. But I'd like something nice too.For me, classic as possible. 2 button, normal width lapel, single / double vent on back - I have a mixture but prefer single,
lighter, fun but not cunty lining, just nice.

I've just spent the last hour on the GQ website so now I have at least some of an idea. Thinking 2 button, thin but not too skinny lapel, 2" apparently is current. Not sure about the whole 1 or 2 vent thing, so will look at both. Lining noted!

Ps. remember I don't know one style from another.

2. What colour should I be going for? As I don't need it for work it will be purely for weddings and posh events so don't really want to go too dark.
Again, personally, I love a blue suit. Darker but can be punchy. I have a beautiful dark navy Prince of Wales that I love...I haven't many with a pattern though, like plain.

So I'm thinking either a blue or a silver. GQ says navy is a classic but to add a bit there should be 'a touch' of turquoise....... :blink: They say for silver it shouldn't be too light or too charcoal, somewhere down the middle. Would like a decent pattern but I guess thats a bit risky as if too 'out there' it will go out of fashion quickly. So pattern is out.

3. What material should I go for when considering looks, ease of upkeep, price?Erm, preference again. Shiny is bad. Generally most decent are pure wool I expect.

Noted.

4. Should I be looking in store or should I take a trip into Karama / Satwa?
I used to be sold on Satwa and the boys at Viva Style Lounge,
BUT....unless you're really specific at fittings and careful, you can end up needing more adjustments as you settle into it.
As you're (no offence) Jo Average in height and build, you could easily buy off the peg in a decent shop.....which is what I've started doing again because they are as good as tailored suits but possibly even better than some of teh recent ones I've had made.

OK. As average as I sound ;) I have in the past struggled with off the shelf as I'm broader in the shoulder than most my height...... and if I'm gonna drop a few K on a new suit I may as well have the bragging rights of it being bespoke ;)

5. Has anyone got any places they can recommend?Tailor made - go to Viva Style Lounge in Satwa. If you want, I'll come with and we can get a Ravi's too. I haven't been in a while but they will remember my chiseled good looks and aggressive bargaining. Probably 1500-2000 total. 600 or something for tailoring, non-neg. Rest is just how much material you need and the quality you want. I've had some for cheap but they can look it, I've also had them for north of 2000 with two trousers.

OR

TM Lewin. I just can't fault them. I love their shirts and I'm wearing today one of their sexy numbers. A blue one, well fitting, slim trouser, great. The trousers come in long length and they tailor to your preference. Good suits for sensible money, last a long time and look sharp. Probably 1500-2000 for a nice one?

Cool. Not in any rush at the minute but some guidance would be appreciated. I'll cover the Ravis.

6. How much should I be paying for: a suit, a few shirts to match plus accessories (cuff links, pocket square thing etc?Suits.
See above.

Shirts - I like TM Lewin shirts. They're good, slim fit, full cutaway collar so you can tie a Windsor knot.

Cuff links, get plain or gimmicky but just not shit. I've got One Pence pieces on today.

Pocket square, go wild, anything you want. Your one chance to be mental. I have a book of possible folds. It's lovely.

Wear a belt if you wish, I sometimes do sometimes don't. I think it's cunty to be one of those people who refuse or think you shouldn't. It's just choice.

So either options are around the 2K mark. Cool.

7. Any other questions I should be asking.For my invoice for the above consultation?

;);)

Thanks in advance.

Much appreciated Scamp. Great help, thanks! :cool:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bahtatboy (Post 12277469)

Thanks Bahtat. Some quality tips.

:cool:

I wear suits day in day out and actually take quite a lot of pride in my appearance. The last few years I have been able to go to Hong Kong to have mine made and they leave Dubai tailors in their dust, but maybe that's not an option for you. If you do go to Hong KOng, find your way to Sams Tailor in Kowloon - its an experience in itself apart from the awesome suits.

If you don't want to go through the whole bespoke service for a tailor made, you really can't go wrong with Hugo Boss in the mall. They have a range of styles, their sales assistants are quite honest about what looks right and wrong on you and they will make fairly significant adjustments FOC if needed.

Follow Bartats advice on styles as it is definitely the details that make the suit stand out.

For timeless look, you can't go wrong with mid grey or mid/darker blues. As others have said, avoid Patterns as they age fast.

Some good points on here, a few more to add -

How to find a good quality suit: Hand stitching, softly rolled lapels (rather than machine pressed), 100% wool or wool blend including cashmere/silk. Look out for buttons including horn or MoP. Avoid polyester.

Style: Medium width lapel (too wide - too 70s, too narrow - too hipster), dark navy/charcoal is safe, play with pattern if you wish but keep it subtle. Side adjusters rather than belt loops if you can. 2 button but never do up the bottom button. Full windsor knot tie with non-matching pocket square.

I like suits. Can't offer than what's said already except my to go guy for suits is Parmar. They have two locations, Bur Dubai in Meena Bazaar and JLT.

Suits cost between 2500 and 3000 depending on fabric. Several fittings. Very happy with mine and I get compliments all the time. They fit perfectly. Won't pretend they're HK or Savile Row quality but for what I pay I get very good results and I'm not spending what the Savile suits run for.

Go with a classic dark blue. 120 to 140 thread count is fine, don't go any higher.

If you're in reasonable shape..One button on the jacket and a ticket pocket.

Recently told 110 from a decent mill is better and easier to look after than 120/140. No idea if that's true.

I've about 5 suits. All black apart from one dark blue. If im honest the blue is nicer.

I have a wedding to go to next month (mine) - will be rocking cream pants and a blue jacket if the tailor ever makes it.

The higher the thread count the increased likelihood of wrinkling and creases as well as rips as the fabric becomes finer. That's mostly true above 140, especially 160+. Only men like Prince Charles can get away with having 160+ suits as they have valets to properly care for it.

While 100 to 110 makes a perfectly fine suit I find that they still lack that soft touch of a higher thread count. 120 to 140 is the magic spot for me.

Having said that, proper tailoring goes a long way. A 110 suit by an excellent tailor is better than a 140 suit by a mediocre tailor.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Millhouse (Post 12277590)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inselaffen (Post 12277453)

Kachin's on Bank Street or Whistle and Flute behind the Iranian hospital are both decent. get a second pair of trousers made

Whistle&Flute are very good - they have a good range of suit fabric so no need to go elsewhere for that if you don't want to. Good advice to have a second pair of trousers made. Also consider getting the jacket "half lined" or "quarter lined" which makes it significantly lighter for hot weather. I find tailors here have a tendency to make everything too tight by default which I find uncomfortable but of course you can just tell them to make a looser fit. Do 2 or even 3 fittings to make sure you are happy.

See below

Quote:

Originally Posted by jam25mack (Post 12277413)

Afternoon Y'all

I need some knowledge from you chaps and chapettes.

I have a few weddings to go to before the end of the year and I'm thinking about getting a new suit. My problem is that I despise wearing suits and know pretty much FA about them. I don't have to wear them for work so generally I don't feel comfortable in them and I don't think I look good in them. However, all that said and done, I've never had a decent suit either so think that maybe part of the problem.

Normally for weddings I wear a designer kilt ensemble but they're becoming silly money to rent and one of the weddings is a Sikh wedding in London so not exactly fitting / easy to get there and back from the rental place I use in Scotland.

Physique wise, I'm not the tallest 5'10'' on a good day, average build but quite broad in the shoulder, slim (ish - a few Kg over but not noticable), blue eyes, originally brown rapidly greying hair (silver fox), dresses to the right on weekdays.... ;)

So my queries are:

1. What style should I be looking at bearing in mind it has to be a bit timeless as I won't be buying another for a few years. But I'd like something nice too.
Single breasted. 3 buttons or 2 depends on what you like. I prefer 3 buttons (but never do up the bottom one)
Make sure it fits right. That means it probably feels a little tighter on the shoulders than you'd expect. Arms should show a little white cuff (1/2 inch or so) when you move your shoulders so don't get them too long.

Ps. remember I don't know one style from another.

2. What colour should I be going for? As I don't need it for work it will be purely for weddings and posh events so don't really want to go too dark.
Dark grey or Navy blue. A faint pinstripe is nice, not a banker style thick one.

3. What material should I go for when considering looks, ease of upkeep, price?
100% wool. Don't even remotely consider any other material

4. Should I be looking in store or should I take a trip into Karama / Satwa?

5. Has anyone got any places they can recommend?

6. How much should I be paying for: a suit, a few shirts to match plus accessories (cuff links, pocket square thing etc?
For the shirts. About 30 quid from TM Lewin or Charles Tyrwhitt. Double cuff, not with buttons.

For the suit, you can get a perfectly good one for around Â£250 in Austin Reed sales. But that's really a sensible minimum. Double or triple that is still not expensive.

For the cufflinks don't get the ones fastened by a chain and don't get the knotted fabric ones. Both types are a massive pain to put in by yourself. Go for standard metal ones.

7. Any other questions I should be asking.

Make sure you get an extra pair of trousers. The jacket won't wear out. The trousers will.

Thanks in advance.

Gayest thread since Scamp's haircut about 5 years ago. Straight men are sooooooo gay these days!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miss Ann Thrope (Post 12277727)

Gayest thread since Scamp's haircut about 5 years ago. Straight men are sooooooo gay these days!

Judging from the attached, you're not wrong:

23 Silver Foxes Who Are Almost Too Hot To Handle | HuffPost

Edit to say that's NSFW for you...

Navy. A sharp navy suit is hot.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miss Ann Thrope (Post 12277727)

Gayest thread since Scamp's haircut about 5 years ago. Straight men are sooooooo gay these days!

Please use the term 'homosexual', the term 'gay' can and has been used in a derogatory manor for years......