http://www.praguepost.com/articles/2...und-around.htm

Ground around

A quick guide to Prague's very best burger joints

By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
October 18, 2006


"At the end of Whit Stillman's Barcelona, Continentals who earlier in the
film smirked at American tastes finally sample a burger, deeply charred and
hot off the grill.

It's a defining moment, a neat coda to a movie that addresses cultural
misunderstandings on a transatlantic scale. Even here in Prague, people
follow Stillman's script: Europeans with only the vaguest notion of American
ways smugly denounce New World habits. Americans, equally clueless as to the
character of their own country, cannot possibly counter the put-downs. They
can, in the end, only silence critics by cooking up a real, juicy burger.

Admittedly, the burger is not truly American in origin - but such is the
mystique of this uncomplicated patty of ground beef, heated and slapped on a
bun, that, even in the fictional world of Hollywood, it can divide or unite.
In real life, the sandwich creates vast commercial empires (think
McDonald's), symbolizes whatever people want it to symbolize ans baffles
just about every short-order cook the world over.

Best Burger Bets
(in order of ranking)

Overall:
Fraktal
Mon Ami
Ultramarin
Buffalo Bill's
Jáma

Burger and bun:
Mon Ami
Fraktal
Ultramarin
Buffalo Bill's
Jáma

Burger alone:
Ultramarin
Mon Ami

Bun:
Mozaika
Mon Ami

Sides:
Ultramarin
Jáma


Like pizza, that other favorite confiscated and transformed by Americans,
the hamburger is easy to create but difficult to perfect. To make matters
worse, the obscure origins ensure countless claims of authenticity. A
traditional Caesar salad must contain anchovies. But what defines a real
burger?

That's why, in every city with more than one burger joint, debates rage over
which serves the best.

No subjective survey like this one will meet universal agreement. The ground
rules I devised for determining Prague's top burger are relatively sound,
though. Making the assumption, first off, that few restaurants here would
spring for a well-marbled fillet and toss it into the grinder, burgers lost
points unless cooked at least to medium. (This is because cuts typically
reserved for the lowly patty are also the ones most susceptible to bacterial
invasions.) A crusty char deepens the flavor of the meat, especially lean
meat - that's the second criterion. I also assessed seasoning, the bun,
condiments, sides and my own version of "eatability."

Simply put: Juicy is good; dripping all over your hands and down your arms,
with bits of buns and meat drooling from the sandwich, is bad.

Obviously, I couldn't try every burger in the city (at least, according to
our finance department). Here's a rundown of the restaurants I visited, with
final results in the sidebar.


Buffalo Bill's

Vodickova 9, Prague 1-New Town

Tel. 224 948 624

The only place that bothered to ask how I wanted my burger prepared, medium
or well-done. On the plus side, a sweet and bitter char lends a backyard
taste. Minuses include something resembling processed cheese product on the
cheeseburger.


Cowboys

Nerudova 40, Prague 1-Malá Strana

Tel. 296 826 105

With the possible exception of Mon Ami, Cowboys pats together the best
quality meat of the bunch. It has a deeper, more robust and masculine
flavor - the sign of good beef. But the kitchen hides it under a blast of
salt that continues to burn long after.


Fraktal

Smeralova 1, Prague 7-Bubenec

Tel. 777 794 094

Fraktal's best option comes with goat cheese and pistachios. The flavors
struggle against each other, complement each other - everything all at once.
Charred thoroughly enough to develop a bitter charcoal flavor, this is a
very good burger stacked on a crusty Kaiser roll.


Jáma

V Jáme 7, Prague 1-New Town

Tel. 224 222 383

A straightforward, uncompromising burger, just like you'd find in diners
across the States. It's lean, yet moderately juicy, with a rich backlash of
pepper. Instead of fries, mine arrived with a side of potato slices. Not
bad.


Mon Ami

Rohácova 20, Prague 3-Zizkov

Tel. 222 780 808

Pljeskavica is a traditional Balkan-style burger. Less artfully prepared, it
involves a mix of beef and lamb. The latter adds an earthy underscore to
ground beef. So, even without dressing, it's a fantastic burger. And the
bun, glutenous and tacky, holds up well.


Mozaika

Nitranská 13, Prague 3- Vinohrady

Tel. 224 253 011

The kitchen can never get it quite right. Every element except one is near
perfect, but it's a different glaring weakness each time. Once the burger
came loaded with mayo so that everything squirted out. Another time it was a
pile of raw ground beef. Great bun and sauteed onions, though.


Red, Hot & Blues

Jakubská 12, Prague 1-Old Town

Tel. 222 314 639

Supposedly spiced with cayenne and garlic, but garlic wins out in the long
run, leaving a trail of bitterness in your mouth. The meat is lean - very
lean, so it feels heavy and dry. The potato bun adds a touch of contrasting
sweetness, but was also dry.


Ultramarin

Ostrovní 32, Prague 1-New Town

Tel. 224 932 249

The bun breaks apart as you grip the burger and cheese dribbles out in small
globs. Otherwise, this would have topped all the others. Loaded with ham,
mushrooms and such, but the meat doesn't need any help. It's herbal with a
stinging edge of pepper. Beautiful."

</>

On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 20:35:56 GMT, "Gregory Morrow"
<gregorymorrowONACLEARDAYYOUCANSEEALOAFHEAD@earthl ink.net> wrote:

    >http://www.praguepost.com/articles/2...und-around.htm
    >Ground around
    >A quick guide to Prague's very best joints

Did Earl pay you to post this?
--

Martin

Martin wrote:

    > On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 20:35:56 GMT, "Gregory Morrow"
    > <gregorymorrowONACLEARDAYYOUCANSEEALOAFHEAD@earthl ink.net> wrote:
    > >
    > >http://www.praguepost.com/articles/2...und-around.htm
    > >
    > >Ground around
    > >
    > >A quick guide to Prague's very best joints
    > Did Earl pay you to post this?


Lol...nope ;-)

It struck me as faintly absurd I guess. When the Czechs were under
communism who would have dreamed of such an article...???

--
Best
Greg

On 20 Oct 2006 17:46:26 -0700, "Gregory Morrow"
<[email protected]> wrote:

    >Martin wrote:
    >> On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 20:35:56 GMT, "Gregory Morrow"
    >> <gregorymorrowONACLEARDAYYOUCANSEEALOAFHEAD@earthl ink.net> wrote:
    >> >
    >> >http://www.praguepost.com/articles/2...und-around.htm
    >> >
    >> >Ground around
    >> >
    >> >A quick guide to Prague's very best joints
    >> Did Earl pay you to post this?
    >Lol...nope ;-)
    >It struck me as faintly absurd I guess. When the Czechs were under
    >communism who would have dreamed of such an article...???

Earl? :-)
--

Martin

Gregory Morrow wrote:
    > Martin wrote:
    > > On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 20:35:56 GMT, "Gregory Morrow"
    > > <gregorymorrowONACLEARDAYYOUCANSEEALOAFHEAD@earthl ink.net> wrote:
    > >
    > > >
    > > >http://www.praguepost.com/articles/2...und-around.htm
    > > >
    > > >Ground around
    > > >
    > > >A quick guide to Prague's very best joints
    > >
    > > Did Earl pay you to post this?
    > Lol...nope ;-)
    > It struck me as faintly absurd I guess. When the Czechs were under
    > communism who would have dreamed of such an article...???
    >
now they can eat the same shit that we can, what progress.....

"Hot fur dommer" <[email protected]> wrote:
    >Gregory Morrow wrote:

    >> It struck me as faintly absurd I guess. When the Czechs were under
    >> communism who would have dreamed of such an article...???
    >>
    >now they can eat the same shit that we can, what progress.....

I can't put a date on it, but I first visited Prague not long after
the fall of communism. I don't remember if burgers were available,
because I am not very interested in that kind of food. What did
fascinate me was the apparent obsession with cream, particularly
whipped cream. One memorable dish was a slice of cooked ham rolled
into a conical form and filled with sweetened whipped cream. I would
have preferred a burger.

--
PB
The return address has been MUNGED
My travel writing: http://www.iol.ie/~draoi/

On 21 Oct 2006 02:25:34 -0700, "Hot fur dommer"
<[email protected]> wrote:

    >Gregory Morrow wrote:
    >> Martin wrote:
    >> > On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 20:35:56 GMT, "Gregory Morrow"
    >> > <gregorymorrowONACLEARDAYYOUCANSEEALOAFHEAD@earthl ink.net> wrote:
    >> >
    >> > >
    >> > >http://www.praguepost.com/articles/2...und-around.htm
    >> > >
    >> > >Ground around
    >> > >
    >> > >A quick guide to Prague's very best joints
    >> >
    >> > Did Earl pay you to post this?
    >> Lol...nope ;-)
    >> It struck me as faintly absurd I guess. When the Czechs were under
    >> communism who would have dreamed of such an article...???
    >>
    >now they can eat the same shit that we can, what progress.....

... have you been shopping in Amstelveen again?

Isn't it obvious why Jeremy has to go to Iceland for a meal?
--

Martin

Martin wrote:
    > On 21 Oct 2006 02:25:34 -0700, "Hot fur dommer"
    > <[email protected]> wrote:
    > >
    > >Gregory Morrow wrote:
    > >> Martin wrote:
    > >>
    > >> > On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 20:35:56 GMT, "Gregory Morrow"
    > >> > <gregorymorrowONACLEARDAYYOUCANSEEALOAFHEAD@earthl ink.net> wrote:
    > >> >
    > >> > >
    > >> > >http://www.praguepost.com/articles/2...und-around.htm
    > >> > >
    > >> > >Ground around
    > >> > >
    > >> > >A quick guide to Prague's very best joints
    > >> >
    > >> > Did Earl pay you to post this?
    > >>
    > >>
    > >> Lol...nope ;-)
    > >>
    > >> It struck me as faintly absurd I guess. When the Czechs were under
    > >> communism who would have dreamed of such an article...???
    > >>
    > >now they can eat the same shit that we can, what progress.....
    > ... have you been shopping in Amstelveen again?
    > Isn't it obvious why Jeremy has to go to Iceland for a meal?
    > --
    >
    > Martin

...he should come to Belgium :)

On 21 Oct 2006 04:22:51 -0700, "Hot fur dommer"
<[email protected]> wrote:

    >Martin wrote:
    >> On 21 Oct 2006 02:25:34 -0700, "Hot fur dommer"
    >> <[email protected]> wrote:
    >> >
    >> >Gregory Morrow wrote:
    >> >> Martin wrote:
    >> >>
    >> >> > On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 20:35:56 GMT, "Gregory Morrow"
    >> >> > <gregorymorrowONACLEARDAYYOUCANSEEALOAFHEAD@earthl ink.net> wrote:
    >> >> >
    >> >> > >
    >> >> > >http://www.praguepost.com/articles/2...und-around.htm
    >> >> > >
    >> >> > >Ground around
    >> >> > >
    >> >> > >A quick guide to Prague's very best joints
    >> >> >
    >> >> > Did Earl pay you to post this?
    >> >>
    >> >>
    >> >> Lol...nope ;-)
    >> >>
    >> >> It struck me as faintly absurd I guess. When the Czechs were under
    >> >> communism who would have dreamed of such an article...???
    >> >>
    >> >now they can eat the same shit that we can, what progress.....
    >> ... have you been shopping in Amstelveen again?
    >> Isn't it obvious why Jeremy has to go to Iceland for a meal?
    >> --
    >>
    >> Martin
    >...he should come to Belgium :)

You can't buy fresh cod in Belgium.
--

Martin

"Padraig Breathnach" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    >. What did
    > fascinate me was the apparent obsession with cream, particularly
    > whipped cream. One memorable dish was a slice of cooked ham rolled
    > into a conical form and filled with sweetened whipped cream. I would
    > have preferred a burger.


Are you sure it wasn't cream cheese instead? That would have made better
sense as whipped cream goes on desserts.

Jena

"Jena" <[email protected]> wrote:

    >"Padraig Breathnach" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    >>. What did
    >> fascinate me was the apparent obsession with cream, particularly
    >> whipped cream. One memorable dish was a slice of cooked ham rolled
    >> into a conical form and filled with sweetened whipped cream. I would
    >> have preferred a burger.
    >Are you sure it wasn't cream cheese instead? That would have made better
    >sense as whipped cream goes on desserts.
I'm sure! I ate the stuff.

There was a dollop of whipped cream in the soup, more with the main
course (which was roast pork) and on the dessert, which was a crepe. I
didn't take cream in my coffee.

--
PB
The return address has been MUNGED
My travel writing: http://www.iol.ie/~draoi/

Padraig Breathnach wrote:

    > "Jena" <[email protected]> wrote:
    > >
    > >"Padraig Breathnach" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    > >>. What did
    > >> fascinate me was the apparent obsession with cream, particularly
    > >> whipped cream. One memorable dish was a slice of cooked ham rolled
    > >> into a conical form and filled with sweetened whipped cream. I would
    > >> have preferred a burger.
    > >
    > >Are you sure it wasn't cream cheese instead? That would have made better
    > >sense as whipped cream goes on desserts.
    > >
    > I'm sure! I ate the stuff.
    > There was a dollop of whipped cream in the soup, more with the main
    > course (which was roast pork) and on the dessert, which was a crepe. I
    > didn't take cream in my coffee.


Czechs are big on the stuff! When I first visited back in the 70's, I
used to go around and gawp at some of the confections in bakery windows
(I've got a few pics somewhere), all these baroque cakes and things
SLATHERED with whipped cream.

As for the hamburger thing, I visited a family (they had relatives here
in Chicago, I was school - mates with one of the sons) for dinner one
evening. They made hamburgers (or the closest approximation thereof),
it was a nice break from all the heavy dumplings and roast pork and
stuff. They had liked hamburgers when they had visited Chicago. At
that time, there were no hamburgers to be had in all of Bohemia :-)

--
Best
Greg

"Padraig Breathnach" <[email protected]> wrote in message

    > I'm sure! I ate the stuff.
    > There was a dollop of whipped cream in the soup, more with the main
    > course (which was roast pork) and on the dessert, which was a crepe. I
    > didn't take cream in my coffee.

That is weird! I have eaten ham hors d'oeuvres with cream cheese and chives
on them and usually if there is a dollop of anything in a soup, it is sour
cream, depending on the soup you are eating.. If chili or a bean soup,
shredded cheddar or minced onion, if pea soup, a bit of butter--but never
whipped cream! Learn something every day!

Jena

On 21 Oct 2006 10:28:14 -0700, "Gregory Morrow"
<[email protected]> wrote:

    >They made hamburgers (or the closest approximation thereof),
    >it was a nice break from all the heavy dumplings and roast pork and
    >stuff. They had liked hamburgers when they had visited Chicago. At
    >that time, there were no hamburgers to be had in all of Bohemia :-)

First visited Prague shortly after the "Velvet Revolution" and roast
(or grilled) meat + knedliky was about all you could get.

Fortunately I like roast/grilled meat and knedliky!


Keith, Bristol, UK

Email: usenet[dot]20[dot]keefy[at]spamgourmet[dot]com

A spamtrap - but I'll get your mail

"Jena" <[email protected]> wrote:

    >"Padraig Breathnach" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    >> I'm sure! I ate the stuff.
    >> There was a dollop of whipped cream in the soup, more with the main
    >> course (which was roast pork) and on the dessert, which was a crepe. I
    >> didn't take cream in my coffee.
    >That is weird! I have eaten ham hors d'oeuvres with cream cheese and chives
    >on them and usually if there is a dollop of anything in a soup, it is sour
    >cream, depending on the soup you are eating.. If chili or a bean soup,
    >shredded cheddar or minced onion, if pea soup, a bit of butter--but never
    >whipped cream! Learn something every day!
You may learn that in at least one restaurant in Prague some years ago
that they went overboard with the whipped cream (I can add that other
restaurants also used it a lot, but not to the same extent). I suggest
that you do not take it as a good lesson.

--
PB
The return address has been MUNGED
My travel writing: http://www.iol.ie/~draoi/