Hi;

I'm planning a trip to the islands north of Scotland. Tips and advice
welcome!

I'm flying from Toronto, and I can get inexpensive direct flights to
Glasgow. It looks easy to get from Glasgow to Aberdeen.

There are constraints on when Northlink and Smyril ferries sail, which
somewhat defines what is possible.

My proposed itinerary:

Depart Aberdeen 1900 Monday June 6
Arrive Lerwick 0730 Tuesday June 7
Depart Lerwick 0130 Wednesday June 8
Arrive Torshavn 1500 Wednesday June 8
....
Depart Torshavn 0830 Monday June 13
Arrive Lerwick 2100 Monday June 13
....
Depart Lerwick 1700 Friday June 17
Arrive Kirkwall 2300 Friday June 17
....
Depart Kirkwall 2345 Wednesday June 22
Arrive Aberdeen 0700 Thursday June 23

This gives four full days plus a bit in the Faroes, four/five days in
the Shetlands, and five days in the Orkneys.

The first leg is kind of ugly because it's two overnight ferry trips
back to back. Well, I can explore Lerwick during that Wednesday,
getting familiar with the town.

I propose to use the cheapest booking in all cases. I am also
bringing a bicycle.

On the Smyril line, cheapest fare is "couchettes" which means I need
to bring a sleeping back (or pay DKK 30 for sheets).

On Northlink, it isn't clear what I get for the cheap fare. Two of
the legs are overnight: Aberdeen to Lerwick, and Kirkwall to
Aberdeen. Does anyone know if it is possible to just lie down
somewhere in the lounge areas? This is exactly what happened on the
Newfoundland ferry--it was a generally-accepted practice that everyone
would start grabbing the larger couches, or promising floor areas, as
soon as they got aboard the overnight runs.

Can anyone say how reliable the ferries typically are in June? What
are the chances of weather bad enough that it would cause major delays
or postponements?

When my travel plans are set, I will post any questions I have about
the actual islands and what to do on them.

[Shetland ferries]
    > Can anyone say how reliable the ferries typically are in June?
    > What are the chances of weather bad enough that it would cause
    > major delays or postponements?

Close to nil. But it's the most popular time of year and the boats
might be very crowded. I'd say your idea of trying to sleep in a
lounge area doesn't look very promising unless you can sleep through
people falling over your feet and dropping beer cans on your head.

============== j-c ====== @ ====== purr . demon . co . uk ==============
Jack Campin: 11 Third St, Newtongrange EH22 4PU, Scotland | tel 0131 660 4760
<http://www.purr.demon.co.uk/jack/> for CD-ROMs and free | fax 0870 0554 975
stuff: Scottish music, food intolerance, & Mac logic fonts | mob 07800 739 557

Ed T wrote:
<Can anyone say how reliable the ferries typically are in June? What
<are the chances of weather bad enough that it would cause major delays

<or postponements?

I have only ridden Smyril Lines Norrona (spelling?) roundtrip between
Bergen, Norway and Iceland via Shetlands and Faroes in early June. The
ferry leaving Iceland arrived 6 hours late due to a bad storm off
Norway. After spending the required three days in the Faroes, the
ferry was again on schedule going to Norway. So delays are possible,
and having only one boat that is probably already going near maximum
speed, it takes a fairly long time to get back on schedule. The
couchettes are 4-12 bunks in a room. Although the food in the dining
room is expensive, they sometimes reduce the cost in half, so check.
Then it is probably cheaper than eating in the snack bar.

As to your destinations: The 600 feet high vertical bird cliffs at Noss
in the Shetland Islands are nice and probably best viewed from a boat
out of Lerwick. At that time of year there may be millions of birds
nesting there. Be sure to wear a hat! Don't miss the trip to Moussa
for the well preserved broch, and on the other side of the island is a
colony of over a hundred seals that is fun to observe up close. You
will see some interesting behavior.

In the Faroes, make sure to take a trip to the northern cliffs
(vertical over 2000-2500 feet high) on a boat out of Vestmanna. Pick a
day when the sea is relatively calm so that the boat can enter the
crevices and caves in the cliff. Also, consider a helicopter ride.
They are heavily subsidized by the government, and if they have room
you can take a very long cheap flight. I took the flight from Torshavn
to Fugloy (the NE most island) via Svinoy and Klaksvik and return.
Very scenic, and I was the only one on board except the two pilots for
most of the flight. If you do this, make sure you have cash as they
didn't accept credit cards when I was there.

In the Orkneys, visit the Tomb of the Eagles on the SE most island.
They will let you handle some of the things found there. Holding the
simple appearing stone tool you will appreciate what a wonderfully
crafted item it is, perfectly shaped and balanced. It's a pity that
you can't touch such items in museums, you would realize that their
stone-age(?) society was much more evolved than you would have thought.

I'm sure that you will enjoy your trip.

George

One other thing, contact the tourist board for the Orkney Islands in
Kirkwall and the Shetland Islands in Lerwick now and have them mail you
their brochures about attractions and accomodations. Both put out
excellent publications which should be all you need to visit there. If
you visit their offices in person, you can also purchase relevent
publications on the areas or you can order them by mail if desired, but
their free publications should be sufficient for most purposes.

As to using a bike, I think that you would be limiting yourself in what
can be seen in your short visit. All three island groups are large,
and a car certainly would make them more easily accessible, although in
the Faroes public transportation may be acceptable.

George

Ed T. <[email protected]> wrote:

    > Hi;
    >
    > I'm planning a trip to the islands north of Scotland. Tips and advice
    > welcome!
[]
    > My proposed itinerary:
    >
[]
    > Depart Lerwick 1700 Friday June 17
    > Arrive Kirkwall 2300 Friday June 17
    > ....
    > Depart Kirkwall 2345 Wednesday June 22
    > Arrive Aberdeen 0700 Thursday June 23

Ed, you may be aware of this, but the Orkney dates are right in the
middle of the St. Magnus Festival-

http://www.stmagnusfestival.com/aboutfestival.htm

It's _really_ hard to get accomodation in Kirkwall or Stromness at that
time of year. Of course, from the festival point of view, it's a good
time to be there! I'd recommend you book your accomodation _now_ in
order to get something.

--
David Horne- www.davidhorne.net
usenet (at) davidhorne (dot) co (dot) uk

Ed T. wrote:
    > Hi;
    > I'm planning a trip to the islands north of Scotland. Tips and
advice
    > welcome!
    > I'm flying from Toronto, and I can get inexpensive direct flights to
    > Glasgow. It looks easy to get from Glasgow to Aberdeen.
    > There are constraints on when Northlink and Smyril ferries sail,
which
    > somewhat defines what is possible.
    > My proposed itinerary:
    > Depart Aberdeen 1900 Monday June 6
    > Arrive Lerwick 0730 Tuesday June 7
    > Depart Lerwick 0130 Wednesday June 8
    > Arrive Torshavn 1500 Wednesday June 8
    > ....
    > Depart Torshavn 0830 Monday June 13
    > Arrive Lerwick 2100 Monday June 13
    > ....
    > Depart Lerwick 1700 Friday June 17
    > Arrive Kirkwall 2300 Friday June 17
    > ....
    > Depart Kirkwall 2345 Wednesday June 22
    > Arrive Aberdeen 0700 Thursday June 23
    > This gives four full days plus a bit in the Faroes, four/five days in
    > the Shetlands, and five days in the Orkneys.
    > The first leg is kind of ugly because it's two overnight ferry trips
    > back to back. Well, I can explore Lerwick during that Wednesday,
    > getting familiar with the town.
    > I propose to use the cheapest booking in all cases. I am also
    > bringing a bicycle.
    > On the Smyril line, cheapest fare is "couchettes" which means I need
    > to bring a sleeping back (or pay DKK 30 for sheets).
    > On Northlink, it isn't clear what I get for the cheap fare. Two of
    > the legs are overnight: Aberdeen to Lerwick, and Kirkwall to
    > Aberdeen. Does anyone know if it is possible to just lie down
    > somewhere in the lounge areas? This is exactly what happened on the
    > Newfoundland ferry--it was a generally-accepted practice that
everyone
    > would start grabbing the larger couches, or promising floor areas, as
    > soon as they got aboard the overnight runs.
    > Can anyone say how reliable the ferries typically are in June? What
    > are the chances of weather bad enough that it would cause major
delays
    > or postponements?
    > When my travel plans are set, I will post any questions I have about
    > the actual islands and what to do on them.

chancellor of the duchy of besses o' th' barn wrote:
    > Ed T. <[email protected]> wrote:
    > > Hi;
    > >
    > > I'm planning a trip to the islands north of Scotland. Tips and
advice
    > > welcome!
    > []
    > > My proposed itinerary:
    > >
    > []
    > > Depart Lerwick 1700 Friday June 17
    > > Arrive Kirkwall 2300 Friday June 17
    > > ....
    > > Depart Kirkwall 2345 Wednesday June 22
    > > Arrive Aberdeen 0700 Thursday June 23
    > Ed, you may be aware of this, but the Orkney dates are right in the
    > middle of the St. Magnus Festival-

Nope, I was clueless. I had done a brief check for festivals for
Shetlands and Faroes, but not Orkneys. Well, the festival certainly
sounds interesting!

    > It's _really_ hard to get accomodation in Kirkwall or Stromness at
that
    > time of year. Of course, from the festival point of view, it's a good
    > time to be there! I'd recommend you book your accomodation _now_ in
    > order to get something.

Well, on the dim side, the boat gets in at 2300, so I don't think I'd
want to look for someplace far out of town. I've looked at the B&B
booking site, and it seems to have a fair number of places available on
that date (if the site is smart enough to show just unbooked). I have
written the tourist board to get their opinion as well. I also will
look at possibly changing the order of islands.

And I hope that Google Groups Beta lets me post this sensibly....

george wrote:

    > As to using a bike, I think that you would be limiting yourself in
what
    > can be seen in your short visit. All three island groups are large,
    > and a car certainly would make them more easily accessible, although
in
    > the Faroes public transportation may be acceptable.

Well, I might give up the bike. However, I think that all three island
groups will be so different from urban southern Ontario, and also the
towns are so small, that I should be able to get into different
countryside within a very short ride. I think that countryside is
intrinsically interesting. Sure I can't cover everything by bicycle,
but I still should see a lot of nature and countryside, a bit slower
and more relaxed.

For more distant natural or historical attractions, I can take a bus
(helicopter), rent a car, or if possible a motor-scooter. The best
part of my visit to the Azores was puttering around Santa Maria on a
scooter. But Santa Maria is a lot sunnier and drier than the north
Atlantic islands....

Thanks for your other comments also, George. They give me a head start
on the second part, which is figuring out what to do when I get there.

<[email protected]> wrote:

[]
    > Well, on the dim side,

Although it will still be light. It doesn't really get properly dark on
Orkney at that time of year!

    > the boat gets in at 2300, so I don't think I'd
    > want to look for someplace far out of town.

Indeed, though you can always get taxis (probably have to call, but
there should be information there.) All the more reason to book in
advance!

    > I've looked at the B&B
    > booking site, and it seems to have a fair number of places available on
    > that date (if the site is smart enough to show just unbooked). I have
    > written the tourist board to get their opinion as well. I also will
    > look at possibly changing the order of islands.

Booking at this stage should be fine, but be quick.

--
David Horne- www.davidhorne.net
usenet (at) davidhorne (dot) co (dot) uk

Following up to Ed T.

    >When my travel plans are set, I will post any questions I have about
    >the actual islands and what to do on them.

I'm going up there in May (northern isles only). I started by
finding which places I wanted to go, then linked up the
transport. A different approach? We are having a couple of days
on Sanday, because there is largely nothing there except beaches
and birds!
We are using a couple of overnight ferries with cabins so we can
make progress while sleeping, or, if conditions are good,
seawatch and photograph.
--
Mike Reid
Wasdale-Thames path-London-Photos "http://www.fellwalk.co.uk" <-- you can email us@ this site
Eat-walk-Spain "http://www.fell-walker.co.uk" <-- dontuse@ all, it's a spamtrap

The Reids wrote:
    >I started by
    >finding which places I wanted to go, then linked up the
    >transport. A different approach?

I think Ed T is using the same approach. His only problem is the ferry
service to the Faroe Islands is only weekly.

<We are having a couple of days
<on Sanday, because there is largely nothing there ........

That's my impression after taking the ferry to Sanday and Eday and not
getting off the boat. An alternative might be to stay in the
pseudo-castle at Balfour on Shapinsay. Is Sanday the island where the
sheep are walled off from the inerior to eat seaweed on the beach, or
is that North Ronaldsay?

George

The Reids <[email protected]> wrote:

    > We are having a couple of days
    > on Sanday, because there is largely nothing there except beaches
    > and birds!

Just be careful not to kill any swans! I posted the following news link
on some other groups recently- it's hilarious IMO!

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/4361079.stm

--
David Horne- www.davidhorne.net
usenet (at) davidhorne (dot) co (dot) uk

Following up to george

    > Is Sanday the island where the
    >sheep are walled off from the inerior to eat seaweed on the beach, or
    >is that North Ronaldsay?

North Ronaldsay. It would be nice to try some. The difference
between standard lamb and a Lake District wether is so noticeable
I suspect N Ronadlsay mutton might be an experience. Our local
butcher keeps Orkney beef and lamb (London) the truck doing a
weekly trip. The driver says he's halfway at Aberdeen!
--
Mike Reid
Wasdale-Thames path-London-Photos "http://www.fellwalk.co.uk" <-- you can email us@ this site
Eat-walk-Spain "http://www.fell-walker.co.uk" <-- dontuse@ all, it's a spamtrap

Following up to chancellor of the duchy of besses o' th' barn

    > I posted the following news link
    >on some other groups recently- it's hilarious IMO!
    >http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/4361079.stm

Obviously not a lot of crime on Sanday! I got the feeling the
writer really wanted them to be royal swans and was a little
disapointed when they found it was routine protected birds
legislation.
--
Mike Reid
Wasdale-Thames path-London-Photos "http://www.fellwalk.co.uk" <-- you can email us@ this site
Eat-walk-Spain "http://www.fell-walker.co.uk" <-- dontuse@ all, it's a spamtrap

    >> Is Sanday the island where the sheep are walled off from the
    >> interior to eat seaweed on the beach, or is that North Ronaldsay?
    > North Ronaldsay. It would be nice to try some. The difference
    > between standard lamb and a Lake District wether is so noticeable
    > I suspect N Ronadlsay mutton might be an experience.

Probably just grass-fed, but it's well worth trying the Shetland
salt mutton - you can buy it in Lerwick but as far as I know it's
never exported to Scotland.

Sanday has been a vaguely-alternative place for nearly 30 years,
when Stuart Christie moved there. Christie is an anarchist who
did time in a Spanish jail for a conspiracy to assassinate Franco
and went on to found Cienfuegos Press, an anarchist publishing
firm, when he got out - he seems to have reasoned that Sanday was
so small any MI5 spooks watching him would have been obvious.

============== j-c ====== @ ====== purr . demon . co . uk ==============
Jack Campin: 11 Third St, Newtongrange EH22 4PU, Scotland | tel 0131 660 4760
<http://www.purr.demon.co.uk/jack/> for CD-ROMs and free | fax 0870 0554 975
stuff: Scottish music, food intolerance, & Mac logic fonts | mob 07800 739 557