Here's a "fringes of Europe" question!

Are there any independent travellers out there with recent experience
of Azerbaijan? My wife and I are planning a week or so of independent
travelling in an unusual destination and we are attracted to the idea
of going to Baku, Azerbaijan, on the Caspian Sea. I have noticed that
there are direct flights from London. Any tips on what there is to see
and do, and what some suitable accommodation might be, would be
appreciated. We even fancy, if it's possible, taking a trip over the
Iranian border (Astara, or perhaps even Tehran) - anyone experienced
this?

On 18 Mar 2005 03:54:42 -0800, [email protected] (Dave
Wheeler) wrote:

    |Here's a "fringes of Europe" question!
    |
    |Are there any independent travellers out there with recent experience
    |of Azerbaijan? My wife and I are planning a week or so of independent
    |travelling in an unusual destination and we are attracted to the idea
    |of going to Baku, Azerbaijan, on the Caspian Sea. I have noticed that
    |there are direct flights from London. Any tips on what there is to see
    |and do, and what some suitable accommodation might be, would be
    |appreciated. We even fancy, if it's possible, taking a trip over the
    |Iranian border (Astara, or perhaps even Tehran) - anyone experienced
    |this?


I haven't been there. You're braver than I:-)

British Travel Advisory
http://tinyurl.com/4ccq5

US Travel Advisory
http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_p...s/cis_978.html


Cheers, Alan, Australia

"Dave Wheeler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected] m...
    > Here's a "fringes of Europe" question!
    > Are there any independent travellers out there with recent experience
    > of Azerbaijan? My wife and I are planning a week or so of independent
    > travelling in an unusual destination and we are attracted to the idea
    > of going to Baku, Azerbaijan, on the Caspian Sea. I have noticed that
    > there are direct flights from London. Any tips on what there is to see
    > and do, and what some suitable accommodation might be, would be
    > appreciated. We even fancy, if it's possible, taking a trip over the
    > Iranian border (Astara, or perhaps even Tehran) - anyone experienced
    > this?

I know people who have been there on business and they werent
very complimentary about the place. If you like old oil refineries
and clapped out drilling rigs go for it otherwise find somewhere
else.

Many years ago (1972) I made a trip to what is now Uzbekistan
and I recall Samarkand , Bhukhara and Khiva as being wonderful
but I'm not sure what the security situation is there today.

Keith



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"Dave Wheeler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected] m...
    > Here's a "fringes of Europe" question!
    > Are there any independent travellers out there with recent experience
    > of Azerbaijan? My wife and I are planning a week or so of independent
    > travelling in an unusual destination and we are attracted to the idea
    > of going to Baku, Azerbaijan, on the Caspian Sea. I have noticed that
    > there are direct flights from London. Any tips on what there is to see
    > and do, and what some suitable accommodation might be, would be
    > appreciated. We even fancy, if it's possible, taking a trip over the
    > Iranian border (Astara, or perhaps even Tehran) - anyone experienced
    > this?

Dave -- Have you read "Eastward to Tartary: Travels in the Balkans, the
Middle East, and the Caucasus" by Robert Kaplan (the guy who writes for
Atlantic; he also wrote "Balkan Ghosts") It should give you some valuable
insight.

Also, go to Lonely Planet's website and clip through to their forums (Thorn
Tree posts? or something like that). There are a lot of adventurous posters
there. :-)

"Dave Wheeler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected] m...
    > Here's a "fringes of Europe" question!
    > Are there any independent travellers out there with recent experience
    > of Azerbaijan? My wife and I are planning a week or so of independent
    > travelling in an unusual destination and we are attracted to the idea
    > of going to Baku, Azerbaijan, on the Caspian Sea. I have noticed that
    > there are direct flights from London. Any tips on what there is to see
    > and do, and what some suitable accommodation might be, would be
    > appreciated. We even fancy, if it's possible, taking a trip over the
    > Iranian border (Astara, or perhaps even Tehran) - anyone experienced
    > this?


Try Georgia or Armenia instead.
Azerbaijan is a complete mess.
Not even http://www.tourism.az/ functions anymore.
The only people who go to Azerbaijan these days are oil people or dickheads.
It is NOT a tourist destination.

Regards
Gerry

Alan S <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>. ..
    > On 18 Mar 2005 03:54:42 -0800, [email protected] (Dave
    > Wheeler) wrote:
    >
    > |Here's a "fringes of Europe" question!
    > |
    > |Are there any independent travellers out there with recent experience
    > |of Azerbaijan? My wife and I are planning a week or so of independent
    > |travelling in an unusual destination and we are attracted to the idea
    > |of going to Baku, Azerbaijan, on the Caspian Sea. I have noticed that
    > |there are direct flights from London. Any tips on what there is to see
    > |and do, and what some suitable accommodation might be, would be
    > |appreciated. We even fancy, if it's possible, taking a trip over the
    > |Iranian border (Astara, or perhaps even Tehran) - anyone experienced
    > |this?
    >
    >
    > I haven't been there. You're braver than I:-)
    >
    > British Travel Advisory
    > http://tinyurl.com/4ccq5

Do the people who write those advisories get a kick out of trying to
scare people?

"Like other countries in the region, Azerbaijan faces a threat from
terrorism. Attacks could be indiscriminate and against civilian
targets, including places frequented by foreigners."

Unlike for example Spain, the US and the UK, Azerbaijan has actually
*not* been subject to any major terrorist attacks in recent history.

Bjorn

    > Are there any independent travellers out there with recent experience
    > of Azerbaijan? My wife and I are planning a week or so of independent
    > travelling in an unusual destination and we are attracted to the idea
    > of going to Baku, Azerbaijan, on the Caspian Sea.

I haven't been there but a friend of mine goes there regularly. From
what he says, Baku is rather unappealing - typical recently-privatized
ex-Soviet society where a reasonably egalitarian and relaxed culture
has been replaced by extreme divisions between rich and poor. So there
are a **** of a lot of nightclubs and even more desperate unemployed
just hanging about. On the other hand, this sort of pathological
urbanization hasn't had much impact elsewhere. So maybe going to
Baku and getting out immediately to explore the smaller towns and the
countryside might be fun. I'd do it if I could afford it and didn't
have this year's holiday already committed (not far away, south-east
Turkey).

Azeri is close enough to Turkish that a few phrases of Turkish will
help a lot. There was a Lonely Planet guidebook a few years ago
which should still be okay for a basic idea of what to see. If you
want to get *really* serious about it I've got a US State Department
training manual on Azeri somewhere which I could scan.

Azeri wine can be fabulously good.

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