36 Hours In Brussels...
Jul 6th 2007 | 6:34 am
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
36 Hours In Brussels...
http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/07/08/travel/08hours.html
July 8, 2007
36 Hours in Brussels
By DAN BILEFSKY
"SNOOTY travelers could be forgiven for overlooking Brussels, a European
capital whose iconic monument is a 17th-century bronze statue of a little
boy urinating into a fountain. But travelers who ignore Brussels, home of
the European Union, twice-fried French fries and the Surrealist painter René
Magritte, do so at their peril. For one thing, there is the food - a
veritable galaxy of Michelin stars. Then there is the beer: more than 600
varieties, including ales brewed by monks. Add to that a thriving design
scene, and the city - once dismissed as a provincial and humorless
wasteland - is finally making cultural waves. Just join the crowds in front
of the Manneken-Pis, the pixyish statue, and you'll get the idea. Locals
delight in dressing up the young boy as Elvis or, sometimes, in a giant
condom.
Friday
5 p.m.
1) BEERS ON THE GRAND' PLACE
For centuries, tourists have reportedly fainted when confronted with the
sheer beauty of Florence. This won't happen in Brussels. The city does not
have the Uffizi Gallery or Michelangelo's "David." But it does have the
Grand' Place, a truly marvelous square in the city's center. Brave the
hordes of tourists (and the kitschy lace shops and overpriced seafood joints
nearby) to drink a Trappist beer at Le Roy d'Espagne (Grand' Place 1;
32-2-513-0807, www.roydespagne.be), an atmospheric bar in one of the Grand'
Place's grandest guild houses. Expect pigs' bladders hanging from the
ceiling and harried waiters in long white aprons that match their long
faces. Grab a seat on the outdoor terrace so you can gawk at the Baroque
square.
8 p.m.
2) RABBIT STEW
Brussels is a foodies' paradise, and you'll struggle to eat a bad meal. A
standout among the hundreds of traditional Belgian brasseries is Les
Brassins (36, rue Keyenveld; 32-2-512 6999; www.lesbrassins.com), a lively
place that serves 50 different brews and Belgian classics like lapin à la
Kriek (rabbit stewed in flavored beer) and stoemp (a winter stew with
potatoes, carrots, onion sauce and sausages) for under 15 euros ($20, at
$1.35 to the euro). The restaurant is at the end of a hard-to-find back
street in Ixelles, a neighborhood popular with expatriates. After your meal,
wander up the street and find the plaque marking the birthplace of Audrey
Hepburn.
Midnight
3) JAZZY BARS
In a city full of alluring bars, the granddaddy of cool may be the
L'Archiduc (6, rue Antoine Dansaert; 32-2-512-0652; www.archiduc.net), in
the downtown area near the stock exchange. Ring the doorbell, go through a
steel bubble swinging door and marvel at the Art Deco room, furnished with
high ceilings and an undulating bar. Nazis were rumored to have frequented
the bar during the German occupation; today, the clientele consists mainly
of goateed beatniks and media types. L'Archiduc is particularly popular with
jazz fans - Miles Davis once jammed there - and impromptu jam sessions often
take place on weekends. A warning: the service can be nonchalant, verging on
nonexistent.
SATURDAY
10 a.m.
4) BREAK FOR NOUVEAU
If the institutional modernism of the European Union's sprawling offices
leaves you cold, escape can be found in the city's Art Nouveau, the flowery
architectural style popular at the beginning of the 20th century. One of the
genre's finest practitioners, and a father of Belgian Art Nouveau, was
Victor Horta. Visit his home and studio, which have been turned into the
Musée Horta (25, rue Américaine, St.-Gilles; 32-2-543-0490;
www.hortamuseum.be; hours are 2 to 5:30 p.m., but earlier tours can be
arranged by e-mail at least a week in advance). The exterior is typically
Belgian: understated. The interior hides lots of astonishing details,
including a grand stairwell made of marble and wrought iron that undulates
into the expressive shapes of an abstract painting. Natural light pours down
from a stained-glass canopy onto the floral mirrors, Tiffany lamps, mosaic
floors and carved banister. The effect is dreamlike - until the hordes of
tourists bring you back to earth.
Noon
5) MOULES FRITES, ANYONE?
For lunch (from July 17, when it reopens), head to the 80-year-old Aux Armes
de Bruxelles (13, rue des Bouchers; 32-2-511-5550; www.armebrux.be), near
the Grand' Place, which has some of the freshest buckets of mussels,
complete with French fries and mayonnaise. Real Bruxellois eat the first
mussel with their fingers, and use the empty shell as a utensil for scooping
up the rest. Don't forget to mop up the mussel soup with a hunk of crusty
bread. If you want a spot away from the tourists, moules frites aficionados
swear by Au Vieux Bruxelles (35, rue St.-Boniface; 32-2-503-3111;
www.auvieuxbruxelles.com) in the heart of a lively Congolese neighborhood,
which serves delectable mussels made with beer, curry and blue cheese, for
about 20 euros.
2 p.m.
6) SHOPPING Ã? LA BELGE
Bargain hunters throughout Europe flock to the Place du Jeu de Balle for a
flea market in Brussels' oldest quarter, the working-class but quickly
gentrifying Marolles. The market has everything from African masks and retro
cinema chairs to fake reproductions of old Belgian masters like Bruegel. The
surrounding streets - Rue Blaes and Rue Haute - are peppered with a quirky
mix of antique furniture shops, galleries and cafes. For more froufrou
surroundings, walk five minutes north to the Sablon, an upscale district
frequented by bourgeois grannies whose outfits match their French poodles.
The district's jewel is the Place du Petit Sablon, a small and picturesque
park framed by an imposing Gothic church, with railings by the Art Nouveau
master Paul Hankar, as well as statues of famous Belgians you've never heard
of.
6 p.m.
7) SWEET BREAK
Get a chocolate boost at Pierre Marcolini (1, rue des Minimes;
32-2-514-1206; www.marcolini.be), one of the best places to buy chocolate in
a city that takes the cocoa bean very seriously. An assortment of 33
chocolates, including truffles and dark chocolate, costs 16.50 euros.
9 p.m.
8) ROYAL CUISINE
Some restaurants in Brussels leave you feeling giddy, if not a bit ecstatic.
Museum Brasserie (3, place Royale; 32-2-508-3590; www.museumfood.be), a new
place from the Flemish chef Peter Goossens, is among them. (His other
restaurant, Hof van Cleve, has three Michelin stars.) Set in a Victor Horta
building that's part of the Royal Museums of Fine Arts, the minimalist
interior is dominated by immense black chandeliers and attracts Flemish
hipsters and matrons alike. The kitchen specializes in updated Belgian
classics like eel in green sauce, veal kidneys with Ghent mustard and
spit-roasted cockerel - all accompanied by perfect frites (Mr. Goossens
started his culinary career peddling fries). The wine cellar, encased in
sleek glass, offers a nice mix of French and New World varieties, including
a delightful Flemish chardonnay with hints of seaweed. For dessert, order
the waffles from LiÚge, a town in Belgium, which manage to be baroque
without being too sweet. Dinner for two, not including wine, runs about 70
euros.
Midnight
9) BOHEMIAN BROTHEL
For good times, stumble over to Goupil le Fol (22, rue de la Violette;
32-2-511-1396), an eccentric, three-story bar housed in a former brothel
that looks like a cross between an opium den and a 1970s porno set. The
walls are covered with old paintings of nudes and lurid landscapes, as well
as vinyl LPs. Sink into one of the couches, order one of the owner's
favorite fruit wines and party into the wee hours, with an Edith Piaf song
blaring from a nearby jukebox. Those with less bohemian instincts should
stay downstairs, as the clientele gets more and more risqué the higher you
climb.
Sunday
11 a.m.
10) A FAMILIAR BRUNCH SPOT
You can find this bakery chain in Manhattan or Paris, but the original Le
Pain Quotidien is in Brussels and remains one of the better brunch spots in
a town that's not great at doing brunch. The flagship bakery is on the Grand
Sablon (11, rue des Sablons; 32-2-513-5154; www.lepainquotidien.com) with
large pine tables crammed with jams, chocolates and bread. The wait can be
irksome, but the farmers' bread is hot from the oven, coffee is served in
large bowls and the cheese tartines are always fresh. Plus, on those rare
Brussels days when the sun is out, the retractable roof lets in a slice of
heaven. Breakfast for two, about 40 euros.
1 p.m.
11) PICNIC AT A CHATEAU
For pastoral escape, stroll the grounds of the Château de la Hulpe (111,
chaussée de Bruxelles; 32-2-653-6404; www.chateaudelahulpe.wallonie.be), an
enchanting French-style castle built in 1842 that overlooks 561 acres of
woods and ponds on the border of Brussels' Forêt de Soignes. The castle is
not generally open to the public, but the grounds - adorned with
rhododendrons and azaleas - are more than worth the 25-minute train ride.
And the farmhouse of the main castle houses the Fondation Folon (6A, drÚve
de la Ramée, La Hulpe; 322-653-3456; www.fondationfolon.be), which shows the
work of the prolific Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon.
VISITOR INFORMATION
SN Brussels Airlines and American Airlines have daily flights from Kennedy
Airport in New York to Brussels Airport, while Continental Airlines flies
from Newark. A recent Web search for early August showed round-trip fares
starting at $1,037.
The best way to get into central Brussels is on the 30-minute Brussels
Airport Express to Central Station. It runs every 15 minutes and costs 3
euros, or $4.05 at $1.35 to the euro.
Brussels hotels are expensive, thanks to the constant influx of Armani-clad
diplomats. One bargain - starting at 95 euros for a double - is the Baroque
Hotel Mozart (23, rue du Marché aux Fromages; 32-2-502-6661;
www.hotel-mozart.be), which has 50 comfortable, compact rooms.
If you packed Armani, try the Jolly Hotel du Grand Sablon (2/4 rue
Bodenbroek, 800-221-2626, www.jollyhotels.com/eng), a luxurious hotel on a
chic square within walking distance of the Royal Palace, the Grand' Place
and the main museums. Summer specials start at 99 euros."
</>
July 8, 2007
36 Hours in Brussels
By DAN BILEFSKY
"SNOOTY travelers could be forgiven for overlooking Brussels, a European
capital whose iconic monument is a 17th-century bronze statue of a little
boy urinating into a fountain. But travelers who ignore Brussels, home of
the European Union, twice-fried French fries and the Surrealist painter René
Magritte, do so at their peril. For one thing, there is the food - a
veritable galaxy of Michelin stars. Then there is the beer: more than 600
varieties, including ales brewed by monks. Add to that a thriving design
scene, and the city - once dismissed as a provincial and humorless
wasteland - is finally making cultural waves. Just join the crowds in front
of the Manneken-Pis, the pixyish statue, and you'll get the idea. Locals
delight in dressing up the young boy as Elvis or, sometimes, in a giant
condom.
Friday
5 p.m.
1) BEERS ON THE GRAND' PLACE
For centuries, tourists have reportedly fainted when confronted with the
sheer beauty of Florence. This won't happen in Brussels. The city does not
have the Uffizi Gallery or Michelangelo's "David." But it does have the
Grand' Place, a truly marvelous square in the city's center. Brave the
hordes of tourists (and the kitschy lace shops and overpriced seafood joints
nearby) to drink a Trappist beer at Le Roy d'Espagne (Grand' Place 1;
32-2-513-0807, www.roydespagne.be), an atmospheric bar in one of the Grand'
Place's grandest guild houses. Expect pigs' bladders hanging from the
ceiling and harried waiters in long white aprons that match their long
faces. Grab a seat on the outdoor terrace so you can gawk at the Baroque
square.
8 p.m.
2) RABBIT STEW
Brussels is a foodies' paradise, and you'll struggle to eat a bad meal. A
standout among the hundreds of traditional Belgian brasseries is Les
Brassins (36, rue Keyenveld; 32-2-512 6999; www.lesbrassins.com), a lively
place that serves 50 different brews and Belgian classics like lapin à la
Kriek (rabbit stewed in flavored beer) and stoemp (a winter stew with
potatoes, carrots, onion sauce and sausages) for under 15 euros ($20, at
$1.35 to the euro). The restaurant is at the end of a hard-to-find back
street in Ixelles, a neighborhood popular with expatriates. After your meal,
wander up the street and find the plaque marking the birthplace of Audrey
Hepburn.
Midnight
3) JAZZY BARS
In a city full of alluring bars, the granddaddy of cool may be the
L'Archiduc (6, rue Antoine Dansaert; 32-2-512-0652; www.archiduc.net), in
the downtown area near the stock exchange. Ring the doorbell, go through a
steel bubble swinging door and marvel at the Art Deco room, furnished with
high ceilings and an undulating bar. Nazis were rumored to have frequented
the bar during the German occupation; today, the clientele consists mainly
of goateed beatniks and media types. L'Archiduc is particularly popular with
jazz fans - Miles Davis once jammed there - and impromptu jam sessions often
take place on weekends. A warning: the service can be nonchalant, verging on
nonexistent.
SATURDAY
10 a.m.
4) BREAK FOR NOUVEAU
If the institutional modernism of the European Union's sprawling offices
leaves you cold, escape can be found in the city's Art Nouveau, the flowery
architectural style popular at the beginning of the 20th century. One of the
genre's finest practitioners, and a father of Belgian Art Nouveau, was
Victor Horta. Visit his home and studio, which have been turned into the
Musée Horta (25, rue Américaine, St.-Gilles; 32-2-543-0490;
www.hortamuseum.be; hours are 2 to 5:30 p.m., but earlier tours can be
arranged by e-mail at least a week in advance). The exterior is typically
Belgian: understated. The interior hides lots of astonishing details,
including a grand stairwell made of marble and wrought iron that undulates
into the expressive shapes of an abstract painting. Natural light pours down
from a stained-glass canopy onto the floral mirrors, Tiffany lamps, mosaic
floors and carved banister. The effect is dreamlike - until the hordes of
tourists bring you back to earth.
Noon
5) MOULES FRITES, ANYONE?
For lunch (from July 17, when it reopens), head to the 80-year-old Aux Armes
de Bruxelles (13, rue des Bouchers; 32-2-511-5550; www.armebrux.be), near
the Grand' Place, which has some of the freshest buckets of mussels,
complete with French fries and mayonnaise. Real Bruxellois eat the first
mussel with their fingers, and use the empty shell as a utensil for scooping
up the rest. Don't forget to mop up the mussel soup with a hunk of crusty
bread. If you want a spot away from the tourists, moules frites aficionados
swear by Au Vieux Bruxelles (35, rue St.-Boniface; 32-2-503-3111;
www.auvieuxbruxelles.com) in the heart of a lively Congolese neighborhood,
which serves delectable mussels made with beer, curry and blue cheese, for
about 20 euros.
2 p.m.
6) SHOPPING Ã? LA BELGE
Bargain hunters throughout Europe flock to the Place du Jeu de Balle for a
flea market in Brussels' oldest quarter, the working-class but quickly
gentrifying Marolles. The market has everything from African masks and retro
cinema chairs to fake reproductions of old Belgian masters like Bruegel. The
surrounding streets - Rue Blaes and Rue Haute - are peppered with a quirky
mix of antique furniture shops, galleries and cafes. For more froufrou
surroundings, walk five minutes north to the Sablon, an upscale district
frequented by bourgeois grannies whose outfits match their French poodles.
The district's jewel is the Place du Petit Sablon, a small and picturesque
park framed by an imposing Gothic church, with railings by the Art Nouveau
master Paul Hankar, as well as statues of famous Belgians you've never heard
of.
6 p.m.
7) SWEET BREAK
Get a chocolate boost at Pierre Marcolini (1, rue des Minimes;
32-2-514-1206; www.marcolini.be), one of the best places to buy chocolate in
a city that takes the cocoa bean very seriously. An assortment of 33
chocolates, including truffles and dark chocolate, costs 16.50 euros.
9 p.m.
8) ROYAL CUISINE
Some restaurants in Brussels leave you feeling giddy, if not a bit ecstatic.
Museum Brasserie (3, place Royale; 32-2-508-3590; www.museumfood.be), a new
place from the Flemish chef Peter Goossens, is among them. (His other
restaurant, Hof van Cleve, has three Michelin stars.) Set in a Victor Horta
building that's part of the Royal Museums of Fine Arts, the minimalist
interior is dominated by immense black chandeliers and attracts Flemish
hipsters and matrons alike. The kitchen specializes in updated Belgian
classics like eel in green sauce, veal kidneys with Ghent mustard and
spit-roasted cockerel - all accompanied by perfect frites (Mr. Goossens
started his culinary career peddling fries). The wine cellar, encased in
sleek glass, offers a nice mix of French and New World varieties, including
a delightful Flemish chardonnay with hints of seaweed. For dessert, order
the waffles from LiÚge, a town in Belgium, which manage to be baroque
without being too sweet. Dinner for two, not including wine, runs about 70
euros.
Midnight
9) BOHEMIAN BROTHEL
For good times, stumble over to Goupil le Fol (22, rue de la Violette;
32-2-511-1396), an eccentric, three-story bar housed in a former brothel
that looks like a cross between an opium den and a 1970s porno set. The
walls are covered with old paintings of nudes and lurid landscapes, as well
as vinyl LPs. Sink into one of the couches, order one of the owner's
favorite fruit wines and party into the wee hours, with an Edith Piaf song
blaring from a nearby jukebox. Those with less bohemian instincts should
stay downstairs, as the clientele gets more and more risqué the higher you
climb.
Sunday
11 a.m.
10) A FAMILIAR BRUNCH SPOT
You can find this bakery chain in Manhattan or Paris, but the original Le
Pain Quotidien is in Brussels and remains one of the better brunch spots in
a town that's not great at doing brunch. The flagship bakery is on the Grand
Sablon (11, rue des Sablons; 32-2-513-5154; www.lepainquotidien.com) with
large pine tables crammed with jams, chocolates and bread. The wait can be
irksome, but the farmers' bread is hot from the oven, coffee is served in
large bowls and the cheese tartines are always fresh. Plus, on those rare
Brussels days when the sun is out, the retractable roof lets in a slice of
heaven. Breakfast for two, about 40 euros.
1 p.m.
11) PICNIC AT A CHATEAU
For pastoral escape, stroll the grounds of the Château de la Hulpe (111,
chaussée de Bruxelles; 32-2-653-6404; www.chateaudelahulpe.wallonie.be), an
enchanting French-style castle built in 1842 that overlooks 561 acres of
woods and ponds on the border of Brussels' Forêt de Soignes. The castle is
not generally open to the public, but the grounds - adorned with
rhododendrons and azaleas - are more than worth the 25-minute train ride.
And the farmhouse of the main castle houses the Fondation Folon (6A, drÚve
de la Ramée, La Hulpe; 322-653-3456; www.fondationfolon.be), which shows the
work of the prolific Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon.
VISITOR INFORMATION
SN Brussels Airlines and American Airlines have daily flights from Kennedy
Airport in New York to Brussels Airport, while Continental Airlines flies
from Newark. A recent Web search for early August showed round-trip fares
starting at $1,037.
The best way to get into central Brussels is on the 30-minute Brussels
Airport Express to Central Station. It runs every 15 minutes and costs 3
euros, or $4.05 at $1.35 to the euro.
Brussels hotels are expensive, thanks to the constant influx of Armani-clad
diplomats. One bargain - starting at 95 euros for a double - is the Baroque
Hotel Mozart (23, rue du Marché aux Fromages; 32-2-502-6661;
www.hotel-mozart.be), which has 50 comfortable, compact rooms.
If you packed Armani, try the Jolly Hotel du Grand Sablon (2/4 rue
Bodenbroek, 800-221-2626, www.jollyhotels.com/eng), a luxurious hotel on a
chic square within walking distance of the Royal Palace, the Grand' Place
and the main museums. Summer specials start at 99 euros."
</>
Jul 6th 2007 | 7:56 am
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 36 Hours In Brussels...
On 6 Jul, 19:34, "Gregory Morrow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/07/08...l/08hours.html
>
> July 8, 2007
>
> 36 Hours in Brussels
>
> By DAN BILEFSKY
>
> "SNOOTY travelers could be forgiven for overlooking Brussels, a European
> capital whose iconic monument is a 17th-century bronze statue of a little
> boy urinating into a fountain. But travelers who ignore Brussels, home of
> the European Union, twice-fried French fries and the Surrealist painter René
> Magritte, do so at their peril. For one thing, there is the food - a
> veritable galaxy of Michelin stars. Then there is the beer: more than 600
> varieties, including ales brewed by monks. Add to that a thriving design
> scene, and the city - once dismissed as a provincial and humorless
> wasteland - is finally making cultural waves. Just join the crowds in front
> of the Manneken-Pis, the pixyish statue, and you'll get the idea. Locals
> delight in dressing up the young boy as Elvis or, sometimes, in a giant
> condom.
>
> Friday
>
> 5 p.m.
> 1) BEERS ON THE GRAND' PLACE
>
> For centuries, tourists have reportedly fainted when confronted with the
> sheer beauty of Florence. This won't happen in Brussels. The city does not
> have the Uffizi Gallery or Michelangelo's "David." But it does have the
> Grand' Place, a truly marvelous square in the city's center. Brave the
> hordes of tourists (and the kitschy lace shops and overpriced seafood joints
> nearby) to drink a Trappist beer at Le Roy d'Espagne (Grand' Place 1;
> 32-2-513-0807,www.roydespagne.be), an atmospheric bar in one of the Grand'
> Place's grandest guild houses. Expect pigs' bladders hanging from the
> ceiling and harried waiters in long white aprons that match their long
> faces. Grab a seat on the outdoor terrace so you can gawk at the Baroque
> square.
>
> 8 p.m.
> 2) RABBIT STEW
>
> Brussels is a foodies' paradise, and you'll struggle to eat a bad meal. A
> standout among the hundreds of traditional Belgian brasseries is Les
> Brassins (36, rue Keyenveld; 32-2-512 6999;www.lesbrassins.com), a lively
> place that serves 50 different brews and Belgian classics like lapin à la
> Kriek (rabbit stewed in flavored beer) and stoemp (a winter stew with
> potatoes, carrots, onion sauce and sausages) for under 15 euros ($20, at
> $1.35 to the euro). The restaurant is at the end of a hard-to-find back
> street in Ixelles, a neighborhood popular with expatriates. After your meal,
> wander up the street and find the plaque marking the birthplace of Audrey
> Hepburn.
>
> Midnight
> 3) JAZZY BARS
>
> In a city full of alluring bars, the granddaddy of cool may be the
> L'Archiduc (6, rue Antoine Dansaert; 32-2-512-0652;www.archiduc.net), in
> the downtown area near the stock exchange. Ring the doorbell, go through a
> steel bubble swinging door and marvel at the Art Deco room, furnished with
> high ceilings and an undulating bar. Nazis were rumored to have frequented
> the bar during the German occupation; today, the clientele consists mainly
> of goateed beatniks and media types. L'Archiduc is particularly popular with
> jazz fans - Miles Davis once jammed there - and impromptu jam sessions often
> take place on weekends. A warning: the service can be nonchalant, verging on
> nonexistent.
>
> SATURDAY
>
> 10 a.m.
> 4) BREAK FOR NOUVEAU
>
> If the institutional modernism of the European Union's sprawling offices
> leaves you cold, escape can be found in the city's Art Nouveau, the flowery
> architectural style popular at the beginning of the 20th century. One of the
> genre's finest practitioners, and a father of Belgian Art Nouveau, was
> Victor Horta. Visit his home and studio, which have been turned into the
> Musée Horta (25, rue Américaine, St.-Gilles; 32-2-543-0490;www.hortamuseum.be;hours are 2 to 5:30 p.m., but earlier tours can be
> arranged by e-mail at least a week in advance). The exterior is typically
> Belgian: understated. The interior hides lots of astonishing details,
> including a grand stairwell made of marble and wrought iron that undulates
> into the expressive shapes of an abstract painting. Natural light pours down
> from a stained-glass canopy onto the floral mirrors, Tiffany lamps, mosaic
> floors and carved banister. The effect is dreamlike - until the hordes of
> tourists bring you back to earth.
>
> Noon
> 5) MOULES FRITES, ANYONE?
>
> For lunch (from July 17, when it reopens), head to the 80-year-old Aux Armes
> de Bruxelles (13, rue des Bouchers; 32-2-511-5550;www.armebrux.be), near
> the Grand' Place, which has some of the freshest buckets of mussels,
> complete with French fries and mayonnaise. Real Bruxellois eat the first
> mussel with their fingers, and use the empty shell as a utensil for scooping
> up the rest. Don't forget to mop up the mussel soup with a hunk of crusty
> bread. If you want a spot away from the tourists, moules frites aficionados
> swear by Au Vieux Bruxelles (35, rue St.-Boniface; 32-2-503-3111;www.auvieuxbruxelles.com) in the heart of a lively Congolese neighborhood,
> which serves delectable mussels made with beer, curry and blue cheese, for
> about 20 euros.
>
> 2 p.m.
> 6) SHOPPING À LA BELGE
>
> Bargain hunters throughout Europe flock to the Place du Jeu de Balle for a
> flea market in Brussels' oldest quarter, the working-class but quickly
> gentrifying Marolles. The market has everything from African masks and retro
> cinema chairs to fake reproductions of old Belgian masters like Bruegel. The
> surrounding streets - Rue Blaes and Rue Haute - are peppered with a quirky
> mix of antique furniture shops, galleries and cafes. For more froufrou
> surroundings, walk five minutes north to the Sablon, an upscale district
> frequented by bourgeois grannies whose outfits match their French poodles.
> The district's jewel is the Place du Petit Sablon, a small and picturesque
> park framed by an imposing Gothic church, with railings by the Art Nouveau
> master Paul Hankar, as well as statues of famous Belgians you've never heard
> of.
>
> 6 p.m.
> 7) SWEET BREAK
>
> Get a chocolate boost at Pierre Marcolini (1, rue des Minimes;
> 32-2-514-1206;www.marcolini.be), one of the best places to buy chocolate in
> a city that takes the cocoa bean very seriously. An assortment of 33
> chocolates, including truffles and dark chocolate, costs 16.50 euros.
>
> 9 p.m.
> 8) ROYAL CUISINE
>
> Some restaurants in Brussels leave you feeling giddy, if not a bit ecstatic.
> Museum Brasserie (3, place Royale; 32-2-508-3590;www.museumfood.be), a new
> place from the Flemish chef Peter Goossens, is among them. (His other
> restaurant, Hof van Cleve, has three Michelin stars.) Set in a Victor Horta
> building that's part of the Royal Museums of Fine Arts, the minimalist
> interior is dominated by immense black chandeliers and attracts Flemish
> hipsters and matrons alike. The kitchen specializes in updated Belgian
> classics like eel in green sauce, veal kidneys with Ghent mustard and
> spit-roasted cockerel - all accompanied by perfect frites (Mr. Goossens
> started his culinary career peddling fries). The wine cellar, encased in
> sleek glass, offers a nice mix of French and New World varieties, including
> a delightful Flemish chardonnay with hints of seaweed. For dessert, order
> the waffles from Liège, a town in Belgium, which manage to be baroque
> without being too sweet. Dinner for two, not including wine, runs about 70
> euros.
>
> Midnight
> 9) BOHEMIAN BROTHEL
>
> For good times, stumble over to Goupil le Fol (22, rue de la Violette;
> 32-2-511-1396), an eccentric, three-story bar housed in a former brothel
> that looks like a cross between an opium den and a 1970s porno set. The
> walls are covered with old paintings of nudes and lurid landscapes, as well
> as vinyl LPs. Sink into one of the couches, order one of the owner's
> favorite fruit wines and party into the wee hours, with an Edith Piaf song
> blaring from a nearby jukebox. Those with less bohemian instincts should
> stay downstairs, as the clientele gets more and more risqué the higher you
> climb.
>
> Sunday
>
> 11 a.m.
> 10) A FAMILIAR BRUNCH SPOT
>
> You can find this bakery chain in Manhattan or Paris, but the original Le
> Pain Quotidien is in Brussels and remains one of the better brunch spots in
> a town that's not great at doing brunch. The flagship bakery is on the Grand
> Sablon (11, rue des Sablons; 32-2-513-5154;www.lepainquotidien.com) with
> large pine tables crammed with jams, chocolates and bread. The wait can be
> irksome, but the farmers' bread is hot from the oven, coffee is served in
> large bowls and the cheese tartines are always fresh. Plus, on those rare
> Brussels days when the sun is out, the retractable roof lets in a slice of
> heaven. Breakfast for two, about 40 euros.
>
> 1 p.m.
> 11) PICNIC AT A CHATEAU
>
> For pastoral escape, stroll the grounds of the Château de la Hulpe (111,
> chaussée de Bruxelles; 32-2-653-6404;www.chateaudelahulpe.wallonie.be), an
> enchanting French-style castle built in 1842 that overlooks 561 acres of
> woods and ponds on the border of Brussels' Forêt de Soignes. The castle is
> not generally open to the public, but the grounds - adorned with
> rhododendrons and azaleas - are more than worth the 25-minute train ride.
> And the farmhouse of the main castle houses the Fondation Folon (6A, drève
> de la Ramée, La Hulpe; 322-653-3456;www.fondationfolon.be), which shows the
> work of the prolific Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon.
>
> VISITOR INFORMATION
>
> SN Brussels Airlines and American Airlines have daily flights from Kennedy
> Airport in New York to Brussels Airport, while Continental Airlines flies
> from Newark. A recent Web search for early August showed round-trip fares
> starting at $1,037.
>
> The best way to get into central Brussels is on the 30-minute Brussels
> Airport Express to Central Station. It runs every 15 minutes and costs 3
> euros, or $4.05 at $1.35 to the euro.
>
> Brussels hotels are expensive, thanks to the constant influx of Armani-clad
> diplomats. One bargain - starting at 95 euros for a double - is the Baroque
> Hotel Mozart (23, rue du Marché aux Fromages; 32-2-502-6661;www.hotel-mozart.be), which has 50 comfortable, compact rooms.
>
> If you packed Armani, try the Jolly Hotel du Grand Sablon (2/4 rue
> Bodenbroek, 800-221-2626,www.jollyhotels.com/eng), a luxurious hotel on a
> chic square within walking distance of the Royal Palace, the Grand' Place
> and the main museums. Summer specials start at 99 euros."
>
> </>
you'd think these mother****ers could also learn some Dutch to put in
their article
<[email protected]> wrote:
> http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/07/08...l/08hours.html
>
> July 8, 2007
>
> 36 Hours in Brussels
>
> By DAN BILEFSKY
>
> "SNOOTY travelers could be forgiven for overlooking Brussels, a European
> capital whose iconic monument is a 17th-century bronze statue of a little
> boy urinating into a fountain. But travelers who ignore Brussels, home of
> the European Union, twice-fried French fries and the Surrealist painter René
> Magritte, do so at their peril. For one thing, there is the food - a
> veritable galaxy of Michelin stars. Then there is the beer: more than 600
> varieties, including ales brewed by monks. Add to that a thriving design
> scene, and the city - once dismissed as a provincial and humorless
> wasteland - is finally making cultural waves. Just join the crowds in front
> of the Manneken-Pis, the pixyish statue, and you'll get the idea. Locals
> delight in dressing up the young boy as Elvis or, sometimes, in a giant
> condom.
>
> Friday
>
> 5 p.m.
> 1) BEERS ON THE GRAND' PLACE
>
> For centuries, tourists have reportedly fainted when confronted with the
> sheer beauty of Florence. This won't happen in Brussels. The city does not
> have the Uffizi Gallery or Michelangelo's "David." But it does have the
> Grand' Place, a truly marvelous square in the city's center. Brave the
> hordes of tourists (and the kitschy lace shops and overpriced seafood joints
> nearby) to drink a Trappist beer at Le Roy d'Espagne (Grand' Place 1;
> 32-2-513-0807,www.roydespagne.be), an atmospheric bar in one of the Grand'
> Place's grandest guild houses. Expect pigs' bladders hanging from the
> ceiling and harried waiters in long white aprons that match their long
> faces. Grab a seat on the outdoor terrace so you can gawk at the Baroque
> square.
>
> 8 p.m.
> 2) RABBIT STEW
>
> Brussels is a foodies' paradise, and you'll struggle to eat a bad meal. A
> standout among the hundreds of traditional Belgian brasseries is Les
> Brassins (36, rue Keyenveld; 32-2-512 6999;www.lesbrassins.com), a lively
> place that serves 50 different brews and Belgian classics like lapin à la
> Kriek (rabbit stewed in flavored beer) and stoemp (a winter stew with
> potatoes, carrots, onion sauce and sausages) for under 15 euros ($20, at
> $1.35 to the euro). The restaurant is at the end of a hard-to-find back
> street in Ixelles, a neighborhood popular with expatriates. After your meal,
> wander up the street and find the plaque marking the birthplace of Audrey
> Hepburn.
>
> Midnight
> 3) JAZZY BARS
>
> In a city full of alluring bars, the granddaddy of cool may be the
> L'Archiduc (6, rue Antoine Dansaert; 32-2-512-0652;www.archiduc.net), in
> the downtown area near the stock exchange. Ring the doorbell, go through a
> steel bubble swinging door and marvel at the Art Deco room, furnished with
> high ceilings and an undulating bar. Nazis were rumored to have frequented
> the bar during the German occupation; today, the clientele consists mainly
> of goateed beatniks and media types. L'Archiduc is particularly popular with
> jazz fans - Miles Davis once jammed there - and impromptu jam sessions often
> take place on weekends. A warning: the service can be nonchalant, verging on
> nonexistent.
>
> SATURDAY
>
> 10 a.m.
> 4) BREAK FOR NOUVEAU
>
> If the institutional modernism of the European Union's sprawling offices
> leaves you cold, escape can be found in the city's Art Nouveau, the flowery
> architectural style popular at the beginning of the 20th century. One of the
> genre's finest practitioners, and a father of Belgian Art Nouveau, was
> Victor Horta. Visit his home and studio, which have been turned into the
> Musée Horta (25, rue Américaine, St.-Gilles; 32-2-543-0490;www.hortamuseum.be;hours are 2 to 5:30 p.m., but earlier tours can be
> arranged by e-mail at least a week in advance). The exterior is typically
> Belgian: understated. The interior hides lots of astonishing details,
> including a grand stairwell made of marble and wrought iron that undulates
> into the expressive shapes of an abstract painting. Natural light pours down
> from a stained-glass canopy onto the floral mirrors, Tiffany lamps, mosaic
> floors and carved banister. The effect is dreamlike - until the hordes of
> tourists bring you back to earth.
>
> Noon
> 5) MOULES FRITES, ANYONE?
>
> For lunch (from July 17, when it reopens), head to the 80-year-old Aux Armes
> de Bruxelles (13, rue des Bouchers; 32-2-511-5550;www.armebrux.be), near
> the Grand' Place, which has some of the freshest buckets of mussels,
> complete with French fries and mayonnaise. Real Bruxellois eat the first
> mussel with their fingers, and use the empty shell as a utensil for scooping
> up the rest. Don't forget to mop up the mussel soup with a hunk of crusty
> bread. If you want a spot away from the tourists, moules frites aficionados
> swear by Au Vieux Bruxelles (35, rue St.-Boniface; 32-2-503-3111;www.auvieuxbruxelles.com) in the heart of a lively Congolese neighborhood,
> which serves delectable mussels made with beer, curry and blue cheese, for
> about 20 euros.
>
> 2 p.m.
> 6) SHOPPING À LA BELGE
>
> Bargain hunters throughout Europe flock to the Place du Jeu de Balle for a
> flea market in Brussels' oldest quarter, the working-class but quickly
> gentrifying Marolles. The market has everything from African masks and retro
> cinema chairs to fake reproductions of old Belgian masters like Bruegel. The
> surrounding streets - Rue Blaes and Rue Haute - are peppered with a quirky
> mix of antique furniture shops, galleries and cafes. For more froufrou
> surroundings, walk five minutes north to the Sablon, an upscale district
> frequented by bourgeois grannies whose outfits match their French poodles.
> The district's jewel is the Place du Petit Sablon, a small and picturesque
> park framed by an imposing Gothic church, with railings by the Art Nouveau
> master Paul Hankar, as well as statues of famous Belgians you've never heard
> of.
>
> 6 p.m.
> 7) SWEET BREAK
>
> Get a chocolate boost at Pierre Marcolini (1, rue des Minimes;
> 32-2-514-1206;www.marcolini.be), one of the best places to buy chocolate in
> a city that takes the cocoa bean very seriously. An assortment of 33
> chocolates, including truffles and dark chocolate, costs 16.50 euros.
>
> 9 p.m.
> 8) ROYAL CUISINE
>
> Some restaurants in Brussels leave you feeling giddy, if not a bit ecstatic.
> Museum Brasserie (3, place Royale; 32-2-508-3590;www.museumfood.be), a new
> place from the Flemish chef Peter Goossens, is among them. (His other
> restaurant, Hof van Cleve, has three Michelin stars.) Set in a Victor Horta
> building that's part of the Royal Museums of Fine Arts, the minimalist
> interior is dominated by immense black chandeliers and attracts Flemish
> hipsters and matrons alike. The kitchen specializes in updated Belgian
> classics like eel in green sauce, veal kidneys with Ghent mustard and
> spit-roasted cockerel - all accompanied by perfect frites (Mr. Goossens
> started his culinary career peddling fries). The wine cellar, encased in
> sleek glass, offers a nice mix of French and New World varieties, including
> a delightful Flemish chardonnay with hints of seaweed. For dessert, order
> the waffles from Liège, a town in Belgium, which manage to be baroque
> without being too sweet. Dinner for two, not including wine, runs about 70
> euros.
>
> Midnight
> 9) BOHEMIAN BROTHEL
>
> For good times, stumble over to Goupil le Fol (22, rue de la Violette;
> 32-2-511-1396), an eccentric, three-story bar housed in a former brothel
> that looks like a cross between an opium den and a 1970s porno set. The
> walls are covered with old paintings of nudes and lurid landscapes, as well
> as vinyl LPs. Sink into one of the couches, order one of the owner's
> favorite fruit wines and party into the wee hours, with an Edith Piaf song
> blaring from a nearby jukebox. Those with less bohemian instincts should
> stay downstairs, as the clientele gets more and more risqué the higher you
> climb.
>
> Sunday
>
> 11 a.m.
> 10) A FAMILIAR BRUNCH SPOT
>
> You can find this bakery chain in Manhattan or Paris, but the original Le
> Pain Quotidien is in Brussels and remains one of the better brunch spots in
> a town that's not great at doing brunch. The flagship bakery is on the Grand
> Sablon (11, rue des Sablons; 32-2-513-5154;www.lepainquotidien.com) with
> large pine tables crammed with jams, chocolates and bread. The wait can be
> irksome, but the farmers' bread is hot from the oven, coffee is served in
> large bowls and the cheese tartines are always fresh. Plus, on those rare
> Brussels days when the sun is out, the retractable roof lets in a slice of
> heaven. Breakfast for two, about 40 euros.
>
> 1 p.m.
> 11) PICNIC AT A CHATEAU
>
> For pastoral escape, stroll the grounds of the Château de la Hulpe (111,
> chaussée de Bruxelles; 32-2-653-6404;www.chateaudelahulpe.wallonie.be), an
> enchanting French-style castle built in 1842 that overlooks 561 acres of
> woods and ponds on the border of Brussels' Forêt de Soignes. The castle is
> not generally open to the public, but the grounds - adorned with
> rhododendrons and azaleas - are more than worth the 25-minute train ride.
> And the farmhouse of the main castle houses the Fondation Folon (6A, drève
> de la Ramée, La Hulpe; 322-653-3456;www.fondationfolon.be), which shows the
> work of the prolific Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon.
>
> VISITOR INFORMATION
>
> SN Brussels Airlines and American Airlines have daily flights from Kennedy
> Airport in New York to Brussels Airport, while Continental Airlines flies
> from Newark. A recent Web search for early August showed round-trip fares
> starting at $1,037.
>
> The best way to get into central Brussels is on the 30-minute Brussels
> Airport Express to Central Station. It runs every 15 minutes and costs 3
> euros, or $4.05 at $1.35 to the euro.
>
> Brussels hotels are expensive, thanks to the constant influx of Armani-clad
> diplomats. One bargain - starting at 95 euros for a double - is the Baroque
> Hotel Mozart (23, rue du Marché aux Fromages; 32-2-502-6661;www.hotel-mozart.be), which has 50 comfortable, compact rooms.
>
> If you packed Armani, try the Jolly Hotel du Grand Sablon (2/4 rue
> Bodenbroek, 800-221-2626,www.jollyhotels.com/eng), a luxurious hotel on a
> chic square within walking distance of the Royal Palace, the Grand' Place
> and the main museums. Summer specials start at 99 euros."
>
> </>
you'd think these mother****ers could also learn some Dutch to put in
their article
Jul 7th 2007 | 8:50 am
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 36 Hours In Brussels...
More to do in Belgium and nearby:
Mons
http://www.bargaintraveleurope.com/0..._Honeymoon.htm
Waterloo Museums
http://www.bargaintraveleurope.com/0...ld_Museums.htm
Luxembourg
http://www.bargaintraveleurope.com/L...es_Benelux.htm
Valenciennes
http://www.bargaintraveleurope.com/0..._Cathedral.htm
Mons
http://www.bargaintraveleurope.com/0..._Honeymoon.htm
Waterloo Museums
http://www.bargaintraveleurope.com/0...ld_Museums.htm
Luxembourg
http://www.bargaintraveleurope.com/L...es_Benelux.htm
Valenciennes
http://www.bargaintraveleurope.com/0..._Cathedral.htm
