Nikon D60....
#16
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,480
From: Calgary











Lenses can run from a few hundred to over $90,000. Just go for the cheaper ones if budget is an issue. The price differences arise from glass quality & lens speed. Higher speed and quality glass cost more, as do some long focal length lenses. Stick to prime lenses or zooms with a narrower focal range.
I dont think I could justify spending 90k on a camera lense unfortunately !

I guess because the camera is new, that the likelihood of a good second hand lense market would be slim.
I am heading to South America for a trip in October and am hoping to pick up a wide angle lense that takes mountain range style photographs well. And that is a reasonable price.
#17
If you are buying lenses for that camera, be aware you need to buy the ones with the autofocus motors built into the lens...the camera does not have a mechanical drive built in...
#19
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,810
From: New Caledonia











You should not have a problem with any Nikon lenses, even the lower cost ones are pretty good for most amateur users. You could also look at Sigma as a lower cost alternative.
If you buy lenses for the consumer SLR digitals (and mostly these are the cheaper ones), you get the focal length, full frame lenses use a 1:50 lens multiplier, so a 50mm becomes a 75mm and so on.
The lenses that fit this camera are the same as fit all the others, used are around.
These are digital lenses suitable for the D60 and give a wide range for most uses.
AF-S 18-70 $380
AF - 55- 200 $270
Go take a look in Vistek in Calgary. They should be able to help you.
If you buy lenses for the consumer SLR digitals (and mostly these are the cheaper ones), you get the focal length, full frame lenses use a 1:50 lens multiplier, so a 50mm becomes a 75mm and so on.
The lenses that fit this camera are the same as fit all the others, used are around.
These are digital lenses suitable for the D60 and give a wide range for most uses.
AF-S 18-70 $380
AF - 55- 200 $270
Go take a look in Vistek in Calgary. They should be able to help you.
Last edited by Surrey Expat; Jun 17th 2008 at 3:22 am.
#20
Another tip that I HIGHLY recommend is that you buy a UV Filter/Polarizing filter for your lens. That way you'll protect your lens from scratches. Also the polarizing filter will enrich shots taken in the sunlight. Think of it as sunglasses for your camera. Do go to your local photo shop and ask for them in the size 52mm. That's the size of the ring in the front of the camera. It has nothing to do with the 55mm rating of the lens itself. I'd do that TODAY as soon as possible.
One last thing, minimize lens changes if you can. Doing so will keep the inner part of the camera close to dust free as possible. From what I understand, getting your camera cleaned of dust can set you back a bit.
#21
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,810
From: New Caledonia











UV & Polarisers are not the same. Put a Skylight 1a (slightly warming effect) on the lens to protect it and leave it on, one for each lens.
Polarisers work differently, there are linear and circular, with a TTL SLR circular is what you want. One for each ring size. They cut out some light, usually one or two stops, take them off in low light. They work best when the sun is at 90 to the lens and OK between 90-180, rotate the ring until you get the desired effect.
They are good at cutting out glare and enhancing the colours in the sky, particularly contrasting white clouds against a blue sky. They don't work at all from inside an aeroplane.
Polarisers work differently, there are linear and circular, with a TTL SLR circular is what you want. One for each ring size. They cut out some light, usually one or two stops, take them off in low light. They work best when the sun is at 90 to the lens and OK between 90-180, rotate the ring until you get the desired effect.
They are good at cutting out glare and enhancing the colours in the sky, particularly contrasting white clouds against a blue sky. They don't work at all from inside an aeroplane.
#23
UV & Polarisers are not the same. Put a Skylight 1a (slightly warming effect) on the lens to protect it and leave it on, one for each lens.
Polarisers work differently, there are linear and circular, with a TTL SLR circular is what you want. One for each ring size. They cut out some light, usually one or two stops, take them off in low light. They work best when the sun is at 90 to the lens and OK between 90-180, rotate the ring until you get the desired effect.
They are good at cutting out glare and enhancing the colours in the sky, particularly contrasting white clouds against a blue sky. They don't work at all from inside an aeroplane.
Polarisers work differently, there are linear and circular, with a TTL SLR circular is what you want. One for each ring size. They cut out some light, usually one or two stops, take them off in low light. They work best when the sun is at 90 to the lens and OK between 90-180, rotate the ring until you get the desired effect.
They are good at cutting out glare and enhancing the colours in the sky, particularly contrasting white clouds against a blue sky. They don't work at all from inside an aeroplane.
#24
Thread Starter










Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 6,609
From: Ontario











My goodness me am getting completely confused! Thanks to you all for all your help and suggestions! I will be asking you all LOTS more questions in the future I can tell you!
#25
The NikonD60 has post processing built into the camera that will provide the same effect as the warming filter. She won't need that. However I do recommend the circular polarizer from Hoya. I hear that's a pretty good brand. I have a circular which I have yet to use. However I will place it on top of my other 'clear' filter.
I think the point was to protect the lens more than anything else.
Problem with using most polarizer filters for protection is as they rotate with the lens as it focusses, that alters the image you get.
#29










Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 15,883

If so you would be better served figuring out how to do panoramas, they are actually quite easy.

And the software to put them together can be free.

Cheers
Steve
#30
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,810
From: New Caledonia











The NikonD60 has post processing built into the camera that will provide the same effect as the warming filter. She won't need that. However I do recommend the circular polarizer from Hoya. I hear that's a pretty good brand. I have a circular which I have yet to use. However I will place it on top of my other 'clear' filter.
Digital cameras may be able to do many things, such as with post processing, but they can only replicate the effects of light through filters. Do much dependency these days on digital effects.



