Just got back yesterday from a short break there.

After spending almost four years in dusty, conservative, small-town, small-minded Ontario it was like being swiped across the face with an icy cold flannel on day like today.
Great night life, friendly people and the beer... don't get me started on the beer.

So - rose tinted glasses removed, anybody want to tell me what it's really like before the OH applies for a job there (as she's about to do)?

Personally I hated living in Montreal but it was my first experience of Canada I had no money no job and didn't speak a word of french and was surrounded by my OH's family Maybe if I went back as a tourist I'd view it a little differently

Thought you might like it.

You do seem to have done the standard potential migrant thing. You went there in summer and saw downtown. Obviously you are going to like it. I'd move to the Old Port like a shot (if my MIL didn't live so close).

Montreal does have its downsides. Apart from some pretty grim neighbourhoods, it has, reputedly, the largest snow clearing budget of any city in the world. I wonder why.

Getting in, out or through the city by car can be a pain. Our journey from Gatineau to the MIL in St-Hubert (South Shore) is about 220km. On a good day, that takes about 2 hours 15. On a bad day, the last 20km (Decarie and Champlain bridge) can take an hour and a half.

Don't forget that income tax in QC is rather higher than in ON.

Surrounded or suffocated?

a bit of both When I met my OH in Belfast none of his family lived near us then we get to Montreal and they all live within a one mile radius it was a bit of a shock to the system Also living in NDG wasn't exactly a good move

I feel your pain. The OP probably doesn't have to worry about that, though.

But family related benefits are greater so, if you have children, it may be a wash.

His post doesn't hint at kids. To relocate from ON to Montreal suggests a well-paid job in the offing.

Of course, visiting isn't living - many troubles in YUL (three solid months of winter, 100% humidity in summer, civic/provincial corruption, nutty taxes, worsening traffic, poor public transit, insane government [OLF], crap roads, increasing air pollution, increasing $ of beer/wine/spirits, et. al. . However . . .

Compared to the beautiful, trendy and culturally tepid Vancouver - or the sprawling big-box thank-God it's Monday heart-attack pace of T.Oh - Mtl QC positively stands out. When I lived in Hollywood North, it was like any other US city - but with a view. When living in Hogtown it was like living in a US city with a shite view.

FFS - the whole Quebecois separatist/independence thing is more of an issue outside of Quebec - it's kind of a joke used by QC politicians to rile up the ignorant proles of unilingual Canada [Alberta?], and to ream Ottawa for extra $. French Canadians are nice enough blokes, once you get to know 'em. I can't say that I haven't met one single French Canadian, in the past ten years, who didn't speak some English (with the exception of bus drivers, taxi drivers, sales clerks, policeman/women, government workers [municipal/prov./federal], paramedics, bank clerks, tourist agents, hospital workers, lawyers, librarians, tow truck operators, prostitutes, contractors, doctors, estate agents, CSIS employees, etc.).

Personally, I take Montreal 10 days out of 10 over Toronto.

I think that Montreal is a great city. There are many things to see and do.

Summer feels like one long party.

During my first few month, I worked downtown in the evenings. It was summer, and there was a real party feel to it. When I was going home at 2 a.m the party was not yet over.

After that I got a job in the day time. Taking the metro reminded me of the London underground during the rush hour. Think sardines.
I then got a car and then had to get used to a 1 1/2 hour drive to work for a journey that should take 20 minutes.

Montreal is a city of contrasts. You have some wonderful areas which are fresh and exciting and others which smell like a six week old unwashed armpit.

Of course winter is no party. Though they try and keep the roads clear there is a lot of snow. Often it is like walking on an ice rink, and falls are not uncommon. Also many drivers break the "2-second rule" even when driving on ice.

The bright happy people of the summer become dour pessimists in the winter. They act like each winter is going to be the worst and longest ever. They also regale you with stories of the great ice storm. The children have fun all year round.

...which is exactly why I started this post. As a tourist, I loved it.

Again, precisely why I started this post. It's helpful to hear from people who have had the experience of being there when it wasn't summer and in areas that weren't downtown.

Anywhere to be avoided in particular?

We've got a little boy (he's four). The OH would be able to get a well paid job. I'd have to brush up on my French...

Heh heh! I found that as long as I tried to speak French then made it clear when they replied that I didn't have a clue what they were talking about, most people reverted to English.

I liked Vancouver when I visited too...and I know a few people there who are forever extolling its virtues. It's another possibility.

Okay - so I get the impression that winter is pretty bad then. Even though it's a big city, is it the case that there's very little to do?
I currently live in backwater Ontario where, unless you play hockey or your kids do, winters drive people like me to an early grave...

Thanks for all the input people! Keep it coming!

One thing I would like to know, is how good would my French have to be to get a job...say, in an office doing admin type stuff?

hi there,

glad to answer your post. First off, as you pointed out that you have a 4 year old, just want to stop you right there if you and your wife both work. Child care is a HUGE issue here... up to 18 months to wait for a place in an accredited daycare ( you could go private, but I personally would never do that to my kids). So if you want to move here shortly that might be an issue for you.

Gotta run to the airport to put my niece on a flight to Toronto but you may IM me if you like.

Also , I would say that working in an office in Montreal without speaking French would be a challenge... on the up side you would qualify for free French lessons here as an immigrant

gotta go

Sarah

re Daycare: I have to completely disagree with this poster. I have two kids (4 & 2 y/o) and we had no trouble finding high quality government run daycare for both; we even had the choice between three daycares. This choice did not include the private daycares (my wife and I found most of them to be lacking in trained staff and setup). The daycares we chose operate in French - our 4 y/o is now bilingual. The government daycares are very inexpensive - about $35-40 per week (per. varmint).

French men with garlic breath and French girls with hairy arm pits. Avoid like the plague.