check if there has been a recall on the unit. There have been a few problems with Kenmore stoves lately (I don't know if you have one of those), just google your stove type no + recall ...

Spoke to our electrician this morning and he thinks it is this as well as when they upgraded our electrics they left the old cooker breaker in there... so he is going to dig out a new one and drop it round later.

Logically its either the breaker is now more sensitive, or one of the heating elements is now pulling more current than before. If it doesnt seem to matter which rings you turn on , then the breaker is the prime suspect (assuming its on a breaker, not wire fuses). If one ring in particular is tripping it (and its not just a higher wattage ring than the others), then maybe its on the way out, but they should last for years...

I am praying it is the breaker - which has been in there for at least 15 years and the cooker is only 1 year old. Everyone join in and pray - I can afford a new breaker - I cannot afford a new cooker..

Until it's checked out you wont know what it is, breaker, element or whole stove (cooker).

I'm guessing one of the first two.

On reading the whole thread it seems its OK for a bit and then trips. My money is on the breaker, although they are usually pretty reliable (although they dont like to be in the damp). Its maybe getting warm and then tripping. But beakers are funny, they may be rated at 20A, but wont trip immediately if you are only just over that, so thats also a possibility, but one a sparky would be equipped to check out in terms of measuring the loads on the circuit at the breaker.

The cheap fix is to replace the breaker and hope for the best, but if it still does it with the new breaker then it could be something screwy with the range, or even the wiring... lets hope not. If you have the sparky there dropping off the breaker maybe ask him to check the current at the old breaker before replacing it unnecessarily. Believe it or not there can be problems with the wiring instalation, pinches and the like, that take years to come to show up

But its the breaker

Could be similar to this situation...
http://www.fixya.com/support/t339203...ter_10_minutes

If it isn't a bad breaker, and if it always trips when you turn on one particular burner (you mentioned your back ring - sorry) my prime suspects are the control, (unlikely in a new stove) or if you're one of those in the habit of removing the burners to clean underneath them maybe either the prong on the burner or the socket it fits into has been damaged, creating a short. If it's burner or socket and a conventional type of stove it shouldn't be too expensive to fix.

Its one of those erm what do you call em stoves - with the flat cooking area - the burners are underneath the glass - why can I not think what it is called...! Here it is - http://www.sears.ca/product/samsung-...4646-FE-R500WX

Ceramic or glass hob you mean.

That is exactly what I was trying to say!

Sounds like the breaker to me. They have a peak trip value and a continuous current value.get the electrician to change it anyway it will only take ten minutes.then turn on all of the oven and hob rings an check the current draw by the appliance.

Will do - thank you!

Could be the Amp. load effect upon an undersized guage wire (such as tryin' to draw 32 amps on a 14 AWG wire) - this'll easily trip the breaker 9 and overheat the wire). Check the "max amps" on yer stove - check teh wire guage for yer stove circuit - and check yer breaker rating. Best to have a certified professional check it if you don't feel comfortable...

I believe for a cooker in Canada (maybe wrong), but the breaker should be 40A and the wire 8AWG (10mm2 to you and me).

did you ever find what the problem was, or have I been away for too long and missed the thread entitled "House blown sky high looking for digs......"