Kontiki

A strange question but does anyone know the ruling regarding fuses in the fuse box, do they have to correspond to the usage for example lights run at 10amps, sockets at 16 and so on. Is there any rule that say's I cannot use a 16amp for a light circuit or 20amp for a sockets.

cuthbert

Page 6 of this guide covers it, and it's not just the number of sockets/lights on the line but whether you have 1.5 or 2.5mm cable.

But just a recommendation with fuses always try to go as small as you can and I would never recommend putting a 16 amp in a light circuit. Imagine you had the maximum of 8 bulbs at 100w in a circuit that's going to draw under 4 amps, so for the sake of safety don't do it as you'd have to go some to draw 16amps on that circuit.

If you want to run what you have in mind past me then no problems, hope it helps.

Kontiki

Thank you Cuthbert, what happen was that I need some extra fuses and Bricomarche had some aeg on special offer of 16 and 20 so without thinking too much i grabbed them. Afterwards I wondered if the consulate would reject them, as I need a certificate. I have been without supply for over 6 years now so I must get it right.

Kontiki

Some additional information that has confused me further is that the Leroy merlin catalogue shows light circuits on 16 amp meb's.

ps wire 1.5

cuthbert

Would need to see it fully to comment if you have an electronic copy available?

But regs are 8 lights at 1.5mm on either a 16A RCD circuit breaker or a 10A cartridge fuse. I personally however have my lights on a 10A RCD.

Kontiki

i will see if I can get a photocopy today.
One other Question the new disjoncteurs are slightly higher than the original which means the link bar is at a slight angle, all connected ok but just looks a bit odd, is this important.

cuthbert

If you have different manufacturers of breakers/fuse holders this is pretty standard problem. I personally would cut the rail to size, close the exposed end off with insulating tape, and bring in another feed into each rail, but rule of thumb if you can see exposed copper because of gap/difference or there is any tension in the breakers (pushing them over) then it's not acceptable. Also the fact you are going to have a visit by a consuel I would try to find another way around it.

Kontiki

Missed the tourist office for p/copy so will go this afternoon. I understand what you say about cutting bar and tape the ends, but am very unsure how to then put another bar on the remaining Disj and then connect the lot together how would I do that.

You may ask yourself why is this chap not getting some one in that knows what he is doing, it's a long and costly story, but I have to do this work myself the best I can with the funds available. The actual installation of all parts are not difficult for me. I have a certain amount of good groundwork training, but the French system is quite different than UK I find, the use of colours for a start makes my mind boggle and don't understand why they don't stick to a group of colours, still wont change that. I am using red for live, blue for neutral, but use brown/orange or mauve from lamp to switch.

I am thinking now that as I only have one tube in the front room, I may as well put my other two tubes onto the same fuse Disj. What would be the max on tubes at 35w each

cuthbert

The ugly way would be to loop some 6mm from one type to the next, there are special terminals that slip in behind the rail with a similar flat blade that has a screwed terminal that cost a couple of euros that would allow you to make the jump, you need to ask for something like this terminal de peigne.

I did red permanent live, black switched live, orange/purple for 2 way light switches.

To work out the current if you know the power just divide the power i.e. 35w by 220v so you finish with 0.15A. As I said in my post above normal lights pull next to bugger all current and are usually highly over rated in the distribution board compared for the current they are pulling. Sockets are where the current rating becomes important.

Just a couple of tips even with cartridge fuses you should make sure at the end of the rail you have an RCD that will pop at 30mA, fuses protect against over current, but they don't protect against shorts to earth in the speed necessary to protect against electrocution risks. A fuse will take far longer to blow than will be required to stop the heart. Usually you will find that the main incomer into the house is a 45 or 60A / 300mA RCD that means it will trip at over current of 60A but if there is a leak to earth of 300mA it will trip as well. Having a lower rated trip of 30mA further down the circuit in your distribution board will give you and your family a far greater level of protection.

And don't worry about the reasons whys or what fors we've all been there, I don't judge. Though I will say as a caveat if you are not sure electricity isn't for the light hearted. Buy a local lad a beer and get some advice off them.

Kontiki

Unfortunately live in a very rural environment with only one main contractor who is a bit of a shark at times, but am trying another young man in another village who works in Bourges to inspect my work when finished.

My RCD is 40A.

After also cutting out a channel for a cable in plastic covering along a large oak beam, I was told that now all lights have to be fitted with the plug socket system. I asked in the local shop and got a shrug. As all my beams are exposed not many places to put cable without looking unpleasant so may leave the one in the beam. But have now change the ones that go into the plaster board. I hope they don't make any more changes before I am finished, or I could be at it for ever more.

What I should do after your advice is to remove offending Disj and buy one legrand to keep bars ok and then after inspection use the method you linked to.

I will still get photocopy of Leroys plan though because it does confuse the issue or at least cloud it.

cuthbert

Unfortunately this is correct, all lights should be connected this half arsed system designed by a drunken electrical apprentice on a Monday morning after a weekend's bender. You may just be able to discern what I think of it. Have I done it, no, do you need to do it to gain consuel certification I'm sorry to say yes. I bought a load of ceiling roses from the UK and installed those, but if and when I come to sell my house I know I will have to install these brain fart abominations.

Kontiki

My understanding is that it has been caused through the strange behaviour of the French (and possibly others too)taking lights with them when they move exposing the bare wires for the next person, who of course may not be so good with electrics. Better to make it illegal to leave bare wires I would have thought.

The other thing I dislike a lot is this new system of pushing the wires into the unit, I had this done by the original electrical company and after only one year they started burn, why I don't know, but hate them.

What is your job in Switzerland ? ie CERN

cuthbert

Spring clip connectors for me lack the surface area contact that a screwed connector does, I use them for low voltage installations but I wouldn't use them for 220v but that's just personal preference but I really have a dislike for those light fittings.

I work at a place called CERN on the French/Swiss border, but have re-wired, re-plumbed and to a certain extent completely re-built my house over the last 7 years, so have at some point already had to ask many of the same questions as I see people asking here.

Kontiki

Got that CERN. Yes I say you are wise on this subject, great for me and others who need that extra help. I wish I could learn more French mind just seems to forget.

bigglesworth

Perhaps, Cuthbert, being at CERN is why you seem to be moving faster than the rest of us?