Flushing heating circuit
#1
Thread Starter
Forum Regular



Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 144
From: Live in France (01), work in Switzerland








Hi,
So far I've got the new hot water tank and water softener in, got the chimney part orders (thanks guys) now to bring the boiler back into service.
I don't think the system has ever been flushed so I'm wondering what is the French version of Fernox for flushing the system and then an inhibitor?
Cheers
So far I've got the new hot water tank and water softener in, got the chimney part orders (thanks guys) now to bring the boiler back into service.
I don't think the system has ever been flushed so I'm wondering what is the French version of Fernox for flushing the system and then an inhibitor?
Cheers
#2
On Google it says that Fernox has offices in France.
I found references to Fernox inhibitor bidon F1.
I found references to Fernox inhibitor bidon F1.
#5
Thread Starter
Forum Regular



Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 144
From: Live in France (01), work in Switzerland








#6
The french tend to hook up a hosepipe to the back of the boiler and let it run until clear. In the UK the use of a pump and product (such as Sentinel) is a more preferred method.
Amongst other things, its generally the mix of metals the water touches in the CH circuit that causes the build up of sludge. This can be significantly reduced by wiring up your pipework to the earth. If your boiler has a copper heat exchanger, with steel pipes feeding the aluminium radiators which have brass fittings then you will have a problem. I changed my father in laws boiler at easter and after 40 years he didn't have any sludge at all - normal - steel boiler, steel pipes and steel radiators. Even so I was still amazed that after so much time without emptying the system the water was just a dark grey.
#7
Thread Starter
Forum Regular



Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 144
From: Live in France (01), work in Switzerland








Ooo bugger I completely forgot about the Dielectric on the boiler oh well too late now. Everything of mine is copper, except the boiler which is ferrous and as you say alu radiators, and one of the first things I did when I moved in was to add an earth bonding point.
If it's a dielectric effect how does the inhibitor work then? Ion exchange? I thought it was due to oxygen in the system?
If it's a dielectric effect how does the inhibitor work then? Ion exchange? I thought it was due to oxygen in the system?
#8
Ooo bugger I completely forgot about the Dielectric on the boiler oh well too late now. Everything of mine is copper, except the boiler which is ferrous and as you say alu radiators, and one of the first things I did when I moved in was to add an earth bonding point.
If it's a dielectric effect how does the inhibitor work then? Ion exchange? I thought it was due to oxygen in the system?
If it's a dielectric effect how does the inhibitor work then? Ion exchange? I thought it was due to oxygen in the system?
I don't see how its too late to earth the boiler. Take out the earth from the socket where you're boiler is plugged into and use that. It doesn't have to be a thick wire and can be done with 2.5mm2 wire
#9
Thread Starter
Forum Regular



Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 144
From: Live in France (01), work in Switzerland








Wasn't the earth, the dielectric unions between the iron casing of the boiler to the brass and copper of the fittings. You mentioned earlier about radiators, why is it never a problem or it's standard going from copper/brass to stainless to aluminium on a radiator and it's OK, but whenever you install a hot water tank, dielectric couplings have to installed and plumbers have a fit when they see a system without.
I'm military strict about earths on everything, have 16mm to a couple of points on the system.
I'm military strict about earths on everything, have 16mm to a couple of points on the system.
#10
Wasn't the earth, the dielectric unions between the iron casing of the boiler to the brass and copper of the fittings. You mentioned earlier about radiators, why is it never a problem or it's standard going from copper/brass to stainless to aluminium on a radiator and it's OK, but whenever you install a hot water tank, dielectric couplings have to installed and plumbers have a fit when they see a system without.
I'm military strict about earths on everything, have 16mm to a couple of points on the system.
I'm military strict about earths on everything, have 16mm to a couple of points on the system.
Its ok to go from galvanized steel to copper, but not the other way on.
Last edited by le plumber; Oct 30th 2012 at 6:40 am.
#11
Thread Starter
Forum Regular



Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 144
From: Live in France (01), work in Switzerland








#12
#13
Forum Regular


Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 84
From: Haut Rhin, Alsace





