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Re: electricity supply
Thanks MikeUK
The deck is a Rega Planar 3 - I'll have a look at the spec label. I have a Marantz CD player, Cambridge Audio DAC and Sony Amp. Thanks very much for the info. At the moment it's all in boxes and no use to me so i might as well give it a go.:) |
Re: electricity supply
If it does run fast there is always the option to change the spindle sizes to compensate. Rega can probably advise on 50/60Hz compatability issues anyway.
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Re: electricity supply
Originally Posted by MikeUK
(Post 4542956)
Why would you lose one side of the ring ?
even if you did the equivalent in Canada is to lose your whole circuit! :confused: (1) If the ring breaks, the current will take the path of least resistance, i.e. it will take the single path remaining. All current (up to 30A) is loaded on the single wire which is only rated at 27A, right? I suppose one could say in a well wired house, this should never happen. But let's say there is a loose wire that breaks free. How do we know it's loose/broken? If the break occurs just before the fuse box, we don't - because the current takes the path of least resistance (the other side of the ring) and the circuit appears normal.... when in fact, it's broken. This can never happen on a radial circuit, even with spurs. (There will always be some external indication of wiring problems because at least one socket won't work.) (2) The real problem (IMHO) is that DIY electricians, and in fact electricians in general, can extend "ring" circuits into extensions, etc. by adding a "spur". Now we have constant overload potential. If someone plugs an unfused socket doubler/tripler (these shouldn't be replaced now anyways)... or worse, installs an illegal double socket (or more than one socket!) and appliances adding up to 30A through this socket, we now have 30A going through 27A with no complaints from the fuse box!!! Yes, the probability of this is remote, but it is still possible.... You simply can't get into this situation with radial circuits. |
Re: electricity supply
Originally Posted by neill
(Post 4552019)
I'm not a registered electrician or anything, but i do have more than a passing interest in this. Humbly, i submit there are 2 potential problems with the UK ring mains circuits.
(1) If the ring breaks, the current will take the path of least resistance, i.e. it will take the single path remaining. All current (up to 30A) is loaded on the single wire which is only rated at 27A, right? I suppose one could say in a well wired house, this should never happen. But let's say there is a loose wire that breaks free. How do we know it's loose/broken? If the break occurs just before the fuse box, we don't - because the current takes the path of least resistance (the other side of the ring) and the circuit appears normal.... when in fact, it's broken. This can never happen on a radial circuit, even with spurs. (There will always be some external indication of wiring problems because at least one socket won't work.) (2) The real problem (IMHO) is that DIY electricians, and in fact electricians in general, can extend "ring" circuits into extensions, etc. by adding a "spur". Now we have constant overload potential. If someone plugs an unfused socket doubler/tripler (these shouldn't be replaced now anyways)... or worse, installs an illegal double socket (or more than one socket!) and appliances adding up to 30A through this socket, we now have 30A going through 27A with no complaints from the fuse box!!! Yes, the probability of this is remote, but it is still possible.... You simply can't get into this situation with radial circuits. You are right that ring mains are not perfect, but for examle if an earth/ground conductor breaks at least you still should have one path back to the consumer unit. IN a radial you would lose that earth path but the appliances would still work. In the UK electrical installations should be checked every 10years, most people don't. There is always a possiblity of overload on a circuit, wether ir be radial or a ring, most modern circuit breakers will allow between 4 and 8 times the rated current to pass through it before tripping. Untrained people in either country can extend a radial or ring circuit further than recommended, but untrained people shouldn't be doing electrical work. Both UK and canadian systems have there good points and there bad points, the key to electricity to be being safe is 1) have fully trained people install electrics (this is where the canadian system of being licensed is better than the UK although we are slowly catching up with the electrical work now come under building regs) 2) Stop untrained people using electrical appliances, this is obviously not going to happen, but most times that there are fires or electric shocks is because a householder has done something stupid, either overloading an extension lead, not having something checked/repaired in a timely manner or thinking that they can do something, because it is just running a piece of wire from here to there, can't be hard can it????? Regards Steve |
Re: electricity supply
Originally Posted by steved61
(Post 4552153)
because it is just running a piece of wire from here to there, can't be hard can it?????
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Re: electricity supply
Originally Posted by Souvenir
(Post 4552407)
You haven't met my wife. I think the latest electrical heater she installed is hooked up with a bit of wet string.
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Re: electricity supply
Originally Posted by MikeUK
(Post 4510361)
Its not as bad as many would have you believe.. if you know what your doing
If the item says it runs on 50-60hz then bring it along and stick it on a transformer If it say 50hz only the leave it behind.. If it says 100-250v 50-60hz buy a plug adapter as that’s all it needs For what its worth I have a Dyson running on 220v at 60hz as most candian house have a split phase feed of two 110v out of phase so if you know what your doing you can run at lot of UK things in Canada. I should point out that should any of these start a fire then you may find that because ist doesn’t meet Canadian spec your insurance won’t pay out. So if you’re not sure, Then don’t Key points, anything with a motor or items like a TV use a lot of power on start up so make sure your transformer has at least twice the power you expect to use, My UK TV pulls aprox 1000watts for 1 second at start up and then settles to about 300watts Things like kettles and other heat only items can be plugged straight in but will tend to run between ¼ to ½ power. Anything with an AC motor will run slightly faster as a rule, so if its speed critical don’t bother Can you tell me what the supply voltages actually are, if its 380 volts, 3 phase, our motors would draw less current. If with it being 60 hz, the motors would run faster, which would mean the motors would again draw less current, so it looks like they could be OK, but I have had some people quote 600 volts, which means that they would be no good. I only have 3 weeks to ready the supply of this equipment to fly out to Canada. A quick reply would be appreciated. Many thanks . |
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