PeteY

Jus thow many K's can you squeeze out of a petrol nissan patrol? (4.2 6cl)?

Somone i know might have one for sale, good physical cond, but very high mileage......wait for it.....270k k's.

I would of course get it checked over, but would i be stepping onto dodgy ground?

Stoney

Seems a bit high for a petrol Pete but what would I know
Just another ute man.

Megalania

270k, engine probably just needs new rings, bearings, head overhaul.

Big cost is gear box, differentials. Check carefully for rust - if used near sea be suspicious.

4WD Engine Conversions

MrsDagboy

Yeah 270 is fairly high for a petrol. If it was a diesel you would get more out of it, but a petrol I would think that it will probably need work done to it fairly soon as Meg suggested. Your call, I guess it comes down to price really!

deedee

the mechanical life in hours for any bearing engine is the equivalent of about 400,000kms of average use...the shells physically wear to nothing which means no oil pressure and an eventual knock......if that makes sense.There is probably life still left in the old girl but its now that it really counts if its had its engine oil changed regular.Bear in mind,diffs also come into the same equation as do gearboxes(these dont normally make 400000kms without rebuild unless they have had an easy life)Nothing 4x4 in Aus has an easy life as far as i'm aware.Its a gamble to buy it unless you own a breakers yard or have a donor vehicle for spares.


spelling and grammer not my best point

PeteY

Points to consider.

Thanks for the help.

Pete.

Badge

i'm assuming you can't inspect yourself so wont point you in any tips in that direction - over 200k in a vehicle and you're starting to look at wear in the engine somewhere and eventually you'll get worn piston rings - blue smoke etc, need to maybe recondition/rebuild the head etc but 270k in Aus is not always as bad as 200k in the UK because it will have done country miles as compared to stop/start UK miles. Depending on price you might run if for another 3 years and have little problems as a stop gap you never know. Find out about the gearbox and the diffs. Threre's a chance the engine will keep going for another 100k especially if it's had regular oil changes and you do sort out any issues now. Change the oil yourself every 5k if you do buy it and use the manufacturer's recommended oil not synthetic.

Fuel consumption will be fairly high. 18-20mpg or less? On a run it will be better?

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deedee

curious,why do you say not synthetic?

Badge

thought someone might press me on this.

Well......I admit to using fully sythetic in my 14 yr old BMW but it is immaculate and having owned it for 5 years I know the history of regular oil changes - every 3-4 K miles.

I've heard a rumour that if you use synthetic in an engine which has been to the moon and back without a change in maybe years that the synthetic might encourage the deposits - the sledge - to suddenly shift and cause major probs. I could be wrong and I invite someone to put me right.

For what its worth, if you can, why NOT use synthetic - it's good. I'd want to change it on a regular basis.

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deedee

makes sense indeed.I thought you were going to say it gives lower oil pressure because its so thin,which on a worn or very high milage engine is the last thing you need.In my own experience i have found synthetic is only an advantage on hotter engines or if you ever over heat as it doesn't break down until over 150 degrees where as mineral or vegitable based oils don't normally cope with anything over 120-130. ......sorry,drifting off topic eh