Originally Posted by baldbutts

Congratulations,you've passed the theory exams.But you had to ring up after a couple of days,although they don't encourage it,as they take forever to let you know by post.
Now onto the practical.
Take your Regs book,pen and calculator.They supply all tools and meters,but you can take your own along if you prefer.They also give you a book to show any written work undertaken.It's not hard hat/boots,but try to look the part,I'm sure it influences the examiner.
There are 6 tasks and you have 4 hours to complete.This is a bit trickier than the written,as you are tight for time.
I'll put the tasks in the order I did them,as you have a choice as long as everyone doesn't choose the same ones first.

1.
Make off 14" of pyro OR terminate a 10A 240V industrial socket.

Right.The task should be to make off the pyro,BUT,due to expense and lack of materials in WA,they give the much easier task of making off the socket.Just in case they change back,take a small pot of vasoline,as I've been told the pyro tools supplied are a bugger to start off.
The cable supplied is 2.5mm 3 core heavy duty flex,with stuffing glands.Nothing tricky here,but make sure you choose the 16 amp breaker,not the 10 or 20.Remember,you're protecting the cable,not the rating of the outlet.
I suggest you choose this task first,as it's quick and easy,and calms you down.If it's pyro,maybe swap it to 2nd.

2.
Test 2 irons.

Theres about 8 irons,so I can only comment on the 2 given to me.Check for cord damage,missing screws,cracks,dials not turning correctly,missing labels on the dials etc etc.Calculate the resistance using Ohms law and P over V x I,then measure it to make sure the reading is near enough.Some irons ,I'm told,have a resistor put in to give false readings.
Test insulation resistance.IMPORTANT.I got a reading of 0.05 M ohm on one,BUT according to Reg 6.3.3.3.3 (a) page 165,the minimum value for a sheathed heating element or appliance is 0.01 M ohm.So it complies-just.
You don't have to dismantle the plug or iron.
Make sure you write everything you do (including the regs ),and the irons details in the sheets provided.

3.
Wire a 2 way and intermediate lighting circuit,and double socket outlet.

You are given a safety tag at the beginning,so make sure you tie it to the incoming mains (a flex on a plug) before starting,or you'll fail.
Link from the main switch with 4mm (honest ,crazy but it's true) singles to the RCD,and from the incoming of the rcd to the 10 A MCB.Then link from the outgoing side of the RCD to the 16 A MCB.Don't link from the neutral bar to the earth (MEN link),or it'll trip when energised.
The socket is wired via the RCD using 2.5 T&E ,but the earth comes pre-sleeved.
You'll have to bell out the switch terminals,as nothing is labelled,and use the spare terminal in the batten holder for any common connections.
When the examiner livens the board,don't worry if the intermediate switch is wrong,he'll let you do it again until it's correct (Don't forget the safety tag).

4.
Volt drop

On a bench is a heating element with an ammeter to show current drawn.
Measure the voltage at incoming and load,and using the regs (i.e volt drop not to excede 5% of incoming voltage) determine whether this complies.
Chances are it won't,or this would be a right quick 'un.
Tell the geezer,and he'll then give you a copy of tables (which I can't remember exactly what they're called-doesn't matter though ).You'll also have a list telling you what factors apply,and in what order to use them,and the pages they can be found.So i'ts not as daunting as it all seems.
You then have to show on your sheet which is the smallest c.s.a of cable which would comply.Luckily,it should be the next one up (1.5mm),so you only have to do the problem once.
Don't forget the formula which you put in your regs
VD=mV/A/m x current x length over 1000

5.
Connect a direct on-line motor with 2 remote start/stop buttons.

I came a bit unstuck on this one,but I still passed,so do yer best !
Tag on the supply!
It's all plug in leads here,so that bit's easy.Phase colours are RED/WHITE/BLUE (very patriotic).You have to connect through a contactor to the motor.The coil is supplied via the start/stop buttons,overload protection terminals and an auxilary coil.I believe the terminals for the overload will be 95 and 96.
I did o.k at first,I had one start button wired incorrectly.But when I tried to rectify it,I made it worse,and ended up walking away hopefully returning to it .I run out of time in the end,so should have just left it as it was.Still,I passed,so I must have done enough.Of course on-site,you'd not be under pressure,so I'm sure they take that into consideration when marking it.
Least said about this one the better.

6.

Test a domestic installation.

I left this one till last,as you could spend ages here and come a cropper for time on the other tasks.
Safety Tag on !
There's no live testing on this one.Again,it's all plug in leads at the destination,but the CU is hard wired.Write everything in full,even if it seems obvious or petty.
Faults are introduced by the examiner throwing switches,so you may find different results to me.
Insulation resistance gave a fault on the lighting circuit.There was 2 RCD's-1 for power 1 for lighting.
Youre given plug in outlets to make testing of fittings easier.
I also found reverse polarity on a socket,incorrect wiring of strappers on the intermediate lighting circuit,and the Insulation resistance fault was between a switch and fitting in one of the bedrooms.
If you leave this till last,you can just plod on until they call time.


So there it is.Feel free to add to this when you've done it.
Best of luck to you all,it is nerve wracking,but once you do it you wonder what all the fuss was about.
They tell you not to call them for your results,but I rang after 3 days saying I had a job offer subject to passing,and wondered when I'd hear anything.She put me on hold for ages,then told me my result ! Glad I did,as it took nearly to weeks to get it in writing.
Finally,send off,or apply in person for your registration card.A bargain at $250 !!!!!
They make it there and then if you call in.

BB-spark extraordinaire (just don't let me near any star/delta motors).

Originally Posted by TheColebecks

Originally Posted by jad n rich

Both are still going very strong housewise, have read on here some tradesmen can earn double in QLD tho, being a builder can confirm rates in QLD are still sky high but would be slightly skeptical double was an accurate figure tho.

Perths got very hot summers and cold wet winters, QLD gets hot summers, but the rest of the year is good, even winter mid 20's most of the time, and we dont get the flies that plague perth. Brisbane is simply just one hell of a lot closer/cheaper flights etc to so much more stuff, after a year or so I imagine that for most could become very important.

Originally Posted by bussie

from start to finish it has taken me 6 1/2 months to get my electrical mechanic/fitters licence

i see now the office of energy have changed there application forms to make things easier which will help alot of people out

if any one wants any info on the electrical fitter exam practical or short theory then drop me an email

Originally Posted by bussie

from start to finish it has taken me 6 1/2 months to get my electrical mechanic/fitters licence

i see now the office of energy have changed there application forms to make things easier which will help alot of people out

if any one wants any info on the electrical fitter exam practical or short theory then drop me an email

Originally Posted by Wendy

This thread is really old, could I forward anyone interested in Electricians licences to this forum