House building costs
 

Here in NZ the rule of thumb is around $1000 per square metre, how does that compare to building costs in Queensland please?

Re: House building costs
 

We are just looking at designs & costs for Hervey Bay and it is probably just a little bit less than $1,000 sqm. It does depend on whether you include A/C's, driveways, fencing etc. in the build costs which will push the cost up.

We have found it very difficult to compare as some inclusions are extras with other builders.

Has anyone had any experience of Perry homes?

Gillian

Re: House building costs
 

Hiya Gill, Perry homes build all over widebay area, I have heard good things but not seen any as their website is always down. Have you been down to the estates in Hervey to take a look.

Remember that AU$1000 equates to NZ$1130 or visa versa NZ$1000 equates to AU$880 when doing the comparisons.

Cheers

Jay

Re: House building costs
 

Hi, we've just built a home in Queensland (30 squares, which is 300sm) and contract price came to just over $200,000, so thats well under $1,000 per square metre. Bearing in mind though that there were a lot of extras on top which we chose to include, and of course doesn't include fencing, landscaping, etc.

Re: House building costs
 

in cairns youd be looking atleast $1000 a metre for a decent home. thats worked on the slab area as opposed to the area under roof.

Re: House building costs
 

We are at the early stages of our house costing - we are doing a detail build cost rather than rough estimate.

Currently the cost is $750K for 1110 square metres
Basement 390
Ground Floor 300
First Floor 210
2nd Floor 210

We are working through by talking with each area ie
Excavation
Foundation (concrete supplier)
Bricklayer (materials & labour)
Electrician (rough & fitting)
Plumber (rough & fitting)
Roofer
Builder (floors, internal walls, frame etc)

Re: House building costs
 

thats a pretty big house.

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30 Squares isn't 300m² it's only 276m² [a square is 100sq ft or 9.2m²] Sorry to be pedantic but it's a common mistake that often costs us tradies money.;)

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AH!!! thanks for that....wondered what "squares" meant....100 Sq feet hey!

TheBears that's a pretty good price for that size of house. What are you going to do with all the space? we've 305 sqM and rattle around in it some days :D

Re: House building costs
 

Squares are a strange figure to quote here in Australia since they are an old imperial measurement. Australia embraced the Metric system way back in the early 70's and in 1988 imperial units of measure were withdrawn from general legal use.
Squares are just an anomaly left from a bygone era;)

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Indoor soccer:sneaky: plenty of room for the kids to run around and for wife and I to have our own space.

Seriously I need the space for:

Work
Seperate living for wifes parents (although they are welcome to live with us - don't want them on top of us - if you know what I mean)
The house will split into 2 later on so we can live in one and rent the other out.

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nobody NEEDS that amount of space. thats about 4 times bigger than the average family home.

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We are not a normal family:p

Re: House building costs
 

Guest Suite
Master Suite
4 additional bedrooms
2 family bathrooms
Snooker Room
Entertainment Room
Formal Lounge
Informal family room
Kitchen
Basement/Garage
Gunroom
Office (not a single bedroom study)
Laundry (including downstairs bathroom with immediate access to outside pool - ie changing room for guests)
Pantry

It doesn't seem that big:unsure: - our friends have an 8 bed 9 bath 10 car garage with internal lift and intercom to save the lazy sods walking from one end to the other - thats big (especially when its just them and a teenager who is never home).

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believe me thats pretty big. we just live in different worlds. sounds like a nice house though.have you not got an outdoor kitchen/bbq area and wheres the heli pad.

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God - that's bigger than some small European principalities!

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Hiya sassie, do you mind me asking who that is with? Is it single or double storey?

Are you in Brissie?

Cheers
Jay

Re: House building costs
 

Hi Jay. We built with Richards Homes on the Gold Coast, and we found them to be very good. It's a single story. If you do a search on here under my user name, I've posted loads of pictures. Anymore questions, ask away. We're just south of Brissie at Ormeau. Halfway between Brisbane and the Gold Coast.

Regards

Gina

Re: House building costs
 

allow for a 'fill in man'..
the man who links the trades together and makes things run smooth..
im a bricklayer but i cut' the roof timbers on most small jobs because a roofing carpenter is quite hard to find..
trade overlap causes conflict.. all trades left unchecked, will not allow for the following trade unless they know them..

i call myself a builder because i will do the overlap role on a small site..
i prefer it rather than doing the same day after day..

you're a lucky sod mr bears..
good luck with it :)

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Cheers Gina:)

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it seems the cost of building is pretty high (for me anyway)
is it possible to build your self? or is there alot more red tape involved?

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Blimey... are you Joyn Wayne !!!

Re: House building costs
 

[QUOTE=thebears;4415227]Guest Suite
Master Suite
4 additional bedrooms
2 family bathrooms
Snooker Room
Entertainment Room
Formal Lounge
Informal family room
Kitchen
Basement/Garage
Gunroom
Office (not a single bedroom study)
Laundry (including downstairs bathroom with immediate access to outside pool - ie changing room for guests)
Pantry


would love to see the plans/pictures thebears as this is the sort of size house we need, we want to build and the not have to move on again
regards
helen

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Our build is just over $2k per sq.m - thank God it isn't the size of the one above <g> - excluding garden, driveway, fencing etc. Considering the spec and the footing costs it isn't exorbitant.

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2k a sqm. you must have really top end fixtures and fittings mr wol.

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The only bit that's really blown the budget is the kitchen, bathrooms etc units. Everything else is reasonably close to our estimates.

The sloping site meant big bucks on the concrete etc - there's enough down there to hold up Fort Knox, and worth about the same <g>.

The sort of thing that causes overspend is the BASIX rules - these change the baseline on the fly. We spent yesterday trying to find "acceptable" lighting units to comply with the BASIX certificate, and have had to replace 44 ceiling downlights with just-off-the-shelf mini-fluorescent bulbs at $20 each FOR THE GLOBES! So that's another $880 for the globes plus another 44 x $7 for the 240v connectors - it all adds up...

Our spec also includes top insulation and internal acoustic insulation - all stuff which isn't immediately apparent but does make a house more liveable. We've had enough of freezing to death every winter!

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the internal acouistic insulation is a must if you have stud walls. we didnt bother even though the old man told me to do it ( the boy knows best) and i wish now id spend the extra and done it. noise just travels thru the rooms especially when the surround sound is going.id never lived in a house with stud walls before and the insulation would havbe been well worth it. im a spark and there are ways around the energy efficiency stuff. to late now for you but it can be done. in QLD now 40% of all your lighting has to be fluros. only place they belong is in the garage.

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The builder says that he always puts it in around theatres and loos - in the latter case to stop the flushing noises coming through - and others, but we don't need to go there <g>.

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[QUOTE=farrierswife;4442903]Just sent you an email helen

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[QUOTE=youngy73;4445248]the internal acouistic insulation is a must if you have stud walls. ]

Hi Youngy73. So what sort of wall insulation should we be looking at. Our spec says R 2.5 ceiling insulation (except external roof areas) but nothing for walls.

Why do they insulate immediately under the roofing and not above the ceiling? I can understand this in the summer as the heat rises into the roof space, but it also means that in the winter you lose all your heating or warmth there also.

Any advise would be appreciated, as only used to dealing with solid block walls.

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[QUOTE=ray2gill;4445667]you should have better insulation in the roof than R2.5. some builders put it just under the roof and some on the ceiling. we live in the tropics so the winter thing aint an issue. i would have it under the tin to stop as much heat as possible getting in there. i would also look at ventilating the roof space. weve got whirlybirds and they work well although you can spent more and get motor driven extraction fans.also look at increasing the size of the eves to atleast 1m as this will reduce the sunlight that shines into the windows. as for the walls, its purely to reduce the noise travel throughout the house. if you have stud walls its significant. dont let anyone tell you different as ther only kidding themselves. you can also get soundproofing gyprock which would be worth a look if your having a media room. as wol said " makes the house more liveable". get the whole roof insulated aswell. it should not cost that much extra. by not insulating patio areas is just a way for the builder to reduce his costs.

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You don't need plans for a house that big mate.

You need an Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 map!!!!

:beer:

Buzzy

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[quote=ray2gill;4445667]You should have sarking under the roof, which prevents water which gets under cracked tiles etc falling in, and also insulates the loft to some extent. The ceiling insulation should be on top of the ceiling gyproc. It's called a "cold roof" system in the UK. I think 4.0 insulation is worth it - the extra cost at installation isn't much.

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Do you have any recommendations for sourcing your concrete? It is ironic but my brother in law is the GM of a large concrete firm in NZ (but the cost for frieght is dreadful;) )

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The builder did that. We used 214 m3 for the underground footings plus a few dozen for the piers. Then the concrete suspended slab took I don't know how much, but it's nearly 400 m2 and 200 thick.... Environmentally suspect!

I suppose we could have got a discount from your BIL and brought it in as cabin baggage but at a cost - and quarantine would have kept it until it was well and truly cured!

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:rofl:

I have budgeted for $250 per m3, some quotes have come in from $150+gst so hopefully I am well covered (excuse the pun).

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Sounds right - IIRC our builder paid $175 /m3 - don't know if this included GST.

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[QUOTE=youngy73;4445731][QUOTE=ray2gill;4445667]
you should have better insulation in the roof than R2.5. some builders put it just under the roof and some on the ceiling. we live in the tropics so the winter thing aint an issue.

Youngy73 & Wol, many thanks for your info. We plan to have roof tiles so will they provide better insulation? The whole roof and external walls will be sarked. Wall studs will be at 450mm centres. Does this sound ok.

Anyone any advise on termite control? We will be building in Hervey Bay.
Perimeter of house protected by vertical exposed slab edge. Penertration & control joints through slab protected by physical barriers (whatever that means) Wall studs & trusses: H2F envelope termite resistant framing. All termite resistant seasoned Pine.

Many thanks Gillian

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That sounds the usual way of doing things up in these parts. If you don't like the idea of an exposed slab you could opt for installation of "granite guard" in the cavity below DPC that way you show a nice brick outer all the way below ground level, more expensive but far nicer purely from an aesthetic point of view. Physical barrier is a treated PVC barrier that termites cannot penetrate.

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Kordon is a double PVC type material with a thin fluffy inside treated with termicide - whole thing is about 4mm thick. Sits like a DPC and in theory the things either can't penetrate, or die in the attempt. Of course it can only be applied to the wall areas, so if the slab is cracked underfloor inspection is still required if the floor is suspended.