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Old Nov 5th 2017, 10:31 am   #1
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Default Christmas/New Year break - Lisbon

Hi, just popped over from the France forum.
Wife & myself have decided on a week's break in Lisbon, the choice mainly dictated by: ease of flight, we don't know Lisbon, and the cultural (and hopefully culinary) interests.
I left all arrangements to Mme TP, who tells me the hotel is close to Metro- Avenida.
We always try to avoid the typical tourist-type restaurants, so wondered if those of you in the know could please advise on typical Portugese eating places which should be memorable - either close to our planned location or in or around the city centre.
Any other tips on must visit 'secret' places that may not figure in the tourists guides would also be most appreciated.
TP
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Old Nov 5th 2017, 11:19 am   #2
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Default Re: Christmas/New Year break - Lisbon

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Originally Posted by Tweedpipe View Post
Hi, just popped over from the France forum.
Wife & myself have decided on a week's break in Lisbon, the choice mainly dictated by: ease of flight, we don't know Lisbon, and the cultural (and hopefully culinary) interests.
I left all arrangements to Mme TP, who tells me the hotel is close to Metro- Avenida.
We always try to avoid the typical tourist-type restaurants, so wondered if those of you in the know could please advise on typical Portugese eating places which should be memorable - either close to our planned location or in or around the city centre.
Any other tips on must visit 'secret' places that may not figure in the tourists guides would also be most appreciated.
TP
Too many restaurants to mention - but do try Cervejaria Ramiro for their wonderful seafood and steak sandwich as a "dessert"! (but be prepared to queue!) In fact, eating in the cervejarias is to be recommended, Trindade, Portugália...... back street tascas can serve divine food too...

Buy a 24-hour travel pass and a map, do the 28 tram ride and seek out the elevadores.

Soak up the Baixa, the praças, take the elvators up to the castle and walk back down, past the Sé.

Eat pasteis in Belém, see the Jerónimos and the Torre.

Take the train along the marginal towards Cascais, hop on and off.

Visit Sintra.

Listen to Fado.

Enjoy.
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Old Nov 5th 2017, 2:15 pm   #3
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Default Re: Christmas/New Year break - Lisbon

Macliam, many thanks for your rapid reply & advise. Having just printed this out, we shall put your advise into action durng our stay. Really looking forward to it - even if it rains, as we've hardly seen much of that here either since very early in the year.
Cheers!
TP
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Old Nov 8th 2017, 1:32 pm   #4
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Default Re: Christmas/New Year break - Lisbon

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweedpipe View Post
Hi, just popped over from the France forum.
Wife & myself have decided on a week's break in Lisbon, the choice mainly dictated by: ease of flight, we don't know Lisbon, and the cultural (and hopefully culinary) interests.
I left all arrangements to Mme TP, who tells me the hotel is close to Metro- Avenida.
We always try to avoid the typical tourist-type restaurants, so wondered if those of you in the know could please advise on typical Portugese eating places which should be memorable - either close to our planned location or in or around the city centre.
Any other tips on must visit 'secret' places that may not figure in the tourists guides would also be most appreciated.
TP
Macliam has given you a pretty comprehensive reply ,but do visit the Mercado do municipal /Ribeiro Direction...walk through main square Praca do Comercio towards the sea.. Turn right .. walk along Avenida da Ribeira.das Naus Keep going until you reach the mercado on the right hand side.. It is an eating and drinking experience like no other in Lisbon Enjoy ...
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Old Nov 8th 2017, 7:01 pm   #5
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Default Re: Christmas/New Year break - Lisbon

For a great view, if the weather is good enough, go to the hotel that is sort of opposite the theatre on avenida de liberade. IT is just down a little and has a small entrance.

There is a lift at the entrance and it takes you straight to the roof top bar. You get very similar views as going up one of the lift things, but no queues and as you are paying, you can stay there as long as you like. The bar is however expensive. Have a look on rough guide or similar and you will find the details of the hotel.

Found it on google maps. Altis Avenida hotel
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Old Nov 8th 2017, 9:31 pm   #6
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Default Re: Christmas/New Year break - Lisbon

Don't expect to be impressed when going from French cuisine to Portuguese cuisine.
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Old Nov 9th 2017, 1:12 am   #7
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Default Re: Christmas/New Year break - Lisbon

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Don't expect to be impressed when going from French cuisine to Portuguese cuisine.
Horses for courses - and in your opinion. I don't know what or where you like to eat, but it sounds as if you've not tried much.

I pointed him at one of the best seafood restaurants in Lisbon - and the Portuguese do know their seafood. Their "prego no pão." is famous, but eaten after the seafood. Ameijoas a Bulhão pato, Crab to die for, ice cold beer... if it's so bad, explain the 20 minute queues outside!

Not all Rrench cooking is Cordon Bleu or Nouvelle cuisine you know, French regional cooking, boudin noir, cassoulet, brandade - all have cousins in Portugal and are served with honesty and pride in some of the tascas.

I also forgot another "must do". Go to Rossio (Praça Dom Pedro IV), walk to the Largo São Domingos beside the Teatro Nacional and look for "A Ginginha" or (my preferred) "Sem Rival" and buy a glass of Ginginha - the sour cherry brandy - "com elas", with exactly 3 cherries in the glass!

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Old Nov 9th 2017, 8:20 am   #8
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Default Re: Christmas/New Year break - Lisbon

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Originally Posted by mfesharne View Post
Don't expect to be impressed when going from French cuisine to Portuguese cuisine.
Lisbon is now a " hot " destination with growing numbers of restaurants of the highest quality.
Looking forward to revisiting next year.
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Old Nov 9th 2017, 8:46 am   #9
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Default Re: Christmas/New Year break - Lisbon

History lesson. French Cuisine is Italian Peasant food with sauce!
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Old Nov 9th 2017, 9:00 am   #10
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Default Re: Christmas/New Year break - Lisbon

I had some wonderful food in Dordogne last year, very disappointing food in Bordeaux this year, Lovely food in Lisbon and not so good in Lisbon. If you do your research or ask for local recommendations you will find the food in Lisbon can be as good as france.
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Old Nov 10th 2017, 11:12 pm   #11
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Default Re: Christmas/New Year break - Lisbon

One tip.

Many tourists miss this simply because it is up the hill. Very little public transport connections, except the legendary Nº28 (Golden) tram. If you don't mind walking up hill through narrow cobbled streets, walk through Alfama barrio to Largo do Graca and Sao Vicente. Small miradors with fabulous views across the city. The monastery and incredible Baroque church (you can walk the roof to see more stupid views). Old/authentic Lisbon is still here. As are many reasonably priced traditional eateries. The biggest spoil for Lisbon as far as I am concerned is the traffic chaos, and all the booming building work downtown. At Sao Vicente and Graca you are high above all this in a much more gentle, tranquil setting. Wonderful flea market also if you like a rummage through the old and curious.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monast...icente_de_Fora

The only insiders tip I would mention on a public forum.

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Old Nov 14th 2017, 9:24 am   #12
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Default Re: Christmas/New Year break - Lisbon

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Originally Posted by macliam View Post
I also forgot another "must do". Go to Rossio (Praça Dom Pedro IV), walk to the Largo São Domingos beside the Teatro Nacional and look for "A Ginginha" or (my preferred) "Sem Rival" and buy a glass of Ginginha - the sour cherry brandy - "com elas", with exactly 3 cherries in the glass!
Completely off topic but the mention of pregos and that ginjinha brings to mind a very sad memory. We had got to know that guy in the photo well enough to chat to on every visit to Lisbon over the years and only found out after we settled here that he's a local from where we now live way up north - we bumped into him one day when taking a riverside stroll, clearly in his element and very much looking forward to the day he could retire and return home for good. From then on, he never allowed us to pay for a drink in that bar. We missed seeing him on our last couple of visits, which are very rare these days but on asking around discovered that he had choked to death while eating a prego in the famous Gambrinus restaurant in that street.

Farpas Blogue: "Gambrinus": tragédia em restaurante de luxo
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Old Nov 14th 2017, 11:47 am   #13
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Default Re: Christmas/New Year break - Lisbon

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Originally Posted by Red Eric View Post
Completely off topic but the mention of pregos and that ginjinha brings to mind a very sad memory. We had got to know that guy in the photo well enough to chat to on every visit to Lisbon over the years and only found out after we settled here that he's a local from where we now live way up north - we bumped into him one day when taking a riverside stroll, clearly in his element and very much looking forward to the day he could retire and return home for good. From then on, he never allowed us to pay for a drink in that bar. We missed seeing him on our last couple of visits, which are very rare these days but on asking around discovered that he had choked to death while eating a prego in the famous Gambrinus restaurant in that street.

Farpas Blogue: "Gambrinus": tragédia em restaurante de luxo
What a sad coincidental link, negative serendipity if ever there was.

I knew he was from the North and I was introduced to Sem Rival by my BiL over 15 years ago, but I have been in Lisbon rarely since my wife's family sold their apartment. I just supposed it was his "dia de folga" when he was not there.

Sad that he never got back to his "Terra", but what a Portuguese way to bow out. RIP.
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Old Nov 14th 2017, 9:49 pm   #14
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Default Re: Christmas/New Year break - Lisbon

Sounds grand Tweedpipe.
Have a lovely time.
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