Cayman_NY

Hi, I've just moved to NY and need to sort out my electrical appliances.
I know everyone will tell me to buy new 110v ones, but I have a special situation.
I have a semi-professional espresso machine with double boiler and algorithmic temperature control (PID). I could buy the same machine in 110v, but it just doesn't have enough power on 110v to perform properly. And it's over $2,000. Not to mention the $2,000 +/- of other kitchen appliances.
FYI - most US military accommodation (in the US) apparently run 110 and 220v circuits so the inhabitants can run US and non-US appliances.

Option 1 - purchase a voltage converter with 3,000watts. Downside is that it will be large, heavy and ugly. It also seems very hard to find a brand that is universally liked and reliable. Goldsource? Seven Seas?

Option 2 - link the machine to the dryer or oven socket. Our dryer is conveniently in the kitchen so its 4 prong power socket is also in the kitchen. The dryer itself is the size of a smart car, so that part is not so convenient. They use 2 110v feeds that are out of synch so the difference across the AC current of the two feeds is always 220v. This results in the 4 prong socket Live 1, Live 2, Neutral and Earth.

Option 3 - join the US military. They probably wouldn't have me.

Question 1 : does anyone have a 3,000 + Watt transformer/converter that they would recommend?

Question 2 : has anyone located a 4 prong to universal adapter for plugging in their UK, Australian or European appliances? Or any other solutions to tapping into the 220v circuit short of hiring an electrician to rewire the rented apartment?

Michael

No matter which option you chose except to run a new 220v line from the breaker box, you are likely to have problems. If it is 2,000 watts, that is over 15 amps at 120v and most homes use 15-25 amp circuit breakers for normal outlets (many outlets per breaker) and may be higher than that for the 220v outlets.

When in use, you shouldn't turn on anything else on that breaker since the extra current may kick the breaker. Even though it may only draw 8-9 amps on the 220v outlet, it is unlikely that the circuit was designed to handle the installed appliance as well as that appliance at the same time.

Since most American homes aren't designed for such a large current drain on 120v circuits from one appliance, the US equivalent appliance probably is a lower wattage version and that is why it doesn't work as well.

Although kitchen 120v outlets may have breakers greater than 25 amps, sometimes they put the refrigerator on that breaker and if your appliance is one that line, the breaker will likely kick when the refrigerator turn on.

md95065

There really isn't a good answer to this.

A step up transformer would be bulky and expensive and, as has already been mentioned, would require its own dedicated 110v circuit rated for at least 30 amps.

If you had a spare 220v circuit that was appropriately rated you could us that although you need to be aware that an appliance designed for use in the UK will most likely have a power switch that only switches the "live" input but in your case you will have two "live" inputs. In practice for a domestic appliance everything will almost certainly be OK but you need to understand that you are using it in a way that it was not designed for.

If you don't have a "spare" 220v circuit you really don't want to be continually plugging and unplugging one of your other appliances - the type of US 220v connector that you describe is really intended for semi-permanent use and is neither particularly easy or safe to plug and unplug repeatedly. In particular these 220v outlets are almost never switched and US electrical codes do not require GFCI circuit breakers to be fitted to 220v outlets even in locations where it would be required for 110v outlets.

In short - if you need to ask for advice on this, don't do it - if you are confident that you know what you are doing then you should be OK.

If I were going to do this I would run a dedicated 220v 20 amp circuit with GFCI breaker on it for the appliance.

Jerseygirl

Welcome to BE.

Sorry I can't help you...but I see you're in rented accommodation...therefore check with the landlord as transformers are a fire risk and using them will void some insurance policies. My guess is he'll say no and no to rewiring...just a guess.

Michael

Codes are local. GFCI breakers are normally on one of the 120v outlets (normally not in the breaker panel) when required by local code usually for any line that has an outlet around water that senses current on that line. Depending on local codes, 220v outlets could possibly be protected by GFCI breakers in the panel.

md95065

Yes, in the final analysis codes are local but they normally start out by incorporating some version of the National Electrical Code and then add on their own particular requirements.

I did actually research the issue of GFCI protection for 220v outlets when I added several 220v outlets to my garage for woodworking tools and discovered that, generally speaking, the requirement for GFCI protection only applies to 110v circuits. As you mentioned, GFCI protection for 110v circuits is often provided by fitting GFCI protected outlets although GFCI breakers in the distribution panel are also an option. For 220v circuits GFCI breakers are essentially the only option and are both extremely hard to find and very expensive.

scrubbedexpat099

The Commercial Machines are usually 220v.

The semi ones are usually 110v.

Wiring an additional outlet for 220v/240v is no biggie and there are certain areas where they are not a semi permanent fixture, garage/workshop for example.

If you are dead set on taking this machine first find the US version and see if it is available in 220v and then see how different the electrics are, just a different plug, no biggie, probably not that simple.

steveq

It would be tempting to make up a box with a US 220V plug onto a UK 13A strip. Add a double pole isolating switch, suitably rated

Cayman_NY

Wow - that was quick to get a bunch of really helpful replies.
The upshot is : there is no easy answer.
I can envisage a plug through style item allows either the dryer or the espresso machine to draw power, but only one.
If going down the dryer-plug route I will definitely consult with a local electrician.

I found a local source of transformers / converters which are prepared to give advice. Just Bulbs - The Light Bulb Store on E60th. They're prepared to advise which transformer is necessary if I give them a photograph of the details plate on the machine. At 1250W on 240v, I figure it needs 3000W on 110v to be well within range. But I'll get their advice and let y'all know how I go.

To the question of which 240v machine gets sold into the US, it's the same model. It was the consultant at Bella Barrista who told me about the US Military option as they sell a lot to US military personnel in the US.

Thanks

Speedwell

I should ask someone down at East West International here in Houston. They have a whole shop here that sells nothing but adapters, transformers, and overseas voltage household and personal appliances. Good crowd there.

This is all massively interesting though. I wonder if someone could develop a safe power switcher that would enable households to run either the clothes dryer or some overseas appliance. I'd definitely donate to a Kickstarter campaign or similar if someone were to design such a thing.

Michael

1250W is only about 10-11 amps but that is still high if running on a 15 amp breaker and other things are turned on. I assumed that since you were referring to a 3,000 watt transformer, the appliance would probably be about 2,000 watts.

I'm not sure if you are in an apartment or home. If in an apartment and you decide to use a transformer, the breaker panel may not be in the apartment and you won't be able to determine which outlets are on which breaker. Even with the ability to get at the breaker panel, homes and apartments can be wired strangely and not necessarily wired by rooms per breaker. Sometimes one breaker will only serve only some of the outlets in one room but may also serve other outlets in another room and/or ceiling light fixtures in other rooms. If using a transformer, you should determine exactly which breaker supports the outlet that you are using as well as any other outlets or light fixtures in case the breaker trips.

I just looked at my panini maker and it is 1,200 watts and it doesn't give me any problems in my kitchen so maybe your appliance will be fine with other things working. I have fluorescent bulbs for the overhead lights and I suspect the refrigerator is on a different circuit. Some people with flood lights for lighting in the kitchen (if on the same circuit as the outlets) seem to have more problems with appliances.

scrubbedexpat099

A 20 amp outlet is visually different to a 15 amp.

What is the make and model?

Pulaski

I know they exist, but I have never seen one in a house, only an office.

There ARE 220V non-dryer/ stove sockets though. .... I didn't think about it earlier when I first saw this thread. They are used to supply power to window air conditioners and are larger than a regular 110v socket, though much smaller than a 220V dryer/ stove socket, though I think they are still 4 pin devices and so not directly helpful for a 240V British/ European appliance.

I guess the real question is how to wire, or otherwise convert a 2x110V "four wire" US supply to a "three wire" 220V supply suitable for a British appliance? If it can be done, maybe an in-line plug in device exists?

Michael

A 220v four wire outlet has two 120v out of phase hot wires, a ground and a neutral. From my understanding appliances like stove timers, LED's, fans, etc. generally run on 110v and are wired using one hot and the neutral wire and the burners are wired with the two hot wires. Since European appliances do not use a neutral, that can be discarded and only the two hot wires and the ground used.

That is way in the US, many lamps and appliances can be two pronged since the neutral is basically 0 volts and as long as the plug is polarized, the risk is low from getting a shock. Sometimes they also encase the electronics in plastic for extra safety (especially drills).

scrubbedexpat099

Home Depot have them.

I was actually thinking of thing like air compressors, welders etc,

A bigger issue for this sort of equipment is frequency.