Converting your UK Appliances to work in the US
#31
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Something like that...but either way, doesn't remove the potential that the insurance will void the policy based on daily use of one.
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#32
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http://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC3000W...ef=pd_sim_lg_1
Something like that...but either way, doesn't remove the potential that the insurance will void the policy based on daily use of one.
Something like that...but either way, doesn't remove the potential that the insurance will void the policy based on daily use of one.
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#33
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If you own, home owners. If you rent, renters insurance.
You have a policy to pay out in case anything is lost/stolen/burned to the ground, they could and have voided policies full stop when not being told that a voltage converter has been used on a regular basis.
They love to get out of making a payment....or not covering you in the first place if you let them know, or have it affect the premium.
You have a policy to pay out in case anything is lost/stolen/burned to the ground, they could and have voided policies full stop when not being told that a voltage converter has been used on a regular basis.
They love to get out of making a payment....or not covering you in the first place if you let them know, or have it affect the premium.
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#34
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http://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC3000W...ef=pd_sim_lg_1
Something like that...but either way, doesn't remove the potential that the insurance will void the policy based on daily use of one.
Something like that...but either way, doesn't remove the potential that the insurance will void the policy based on daily use of one.
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#38
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I am primarily asking as I am looking into what kind of converter I may need, but dont want to do anything that might have other repercussions.
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#39
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Please excuse what might be a stupid question. How would the 110V feed (which I am assuming you mean the wall socket?) overheat? I would have thought that the converter would take the brunt of of heat generation and would have (or at least suppose to have) heat exchanges in it to handle?
I am primarily asking as I am looking into what kind of converter I may need, but dont want to do anything that might have other repercussions.
I am primarily asking as I am looking into what kind of converter I may need, but dont want to do anything that might have other repercussions.
Power = current x voltage
So current in x voltage in = current out x voltage out.
OK ?
SO if input volts = 120 and output volts = 240, then the current in the input is TWICE the current in the output.
OK ?
And heating in the wires = current^2 x resistance
So with TWICE the current, you have FOUR TIMES more heating in the wires.
AND some abominations lurk in the USpower system, including aluminium wires....
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#40
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Please excuse what might be a stupid question. How would the 110V feed (which I am assuming you mean the wall socket?) overheat? I would have thought that the converter would take the brunt of of heat generation and would have (or at least suppose to have) heat exchanges in it to handle?
I am primarily asking as I am looking into what kind of converter I may need, but dont want to do anything that might have other repercussions.
I am primarily asking as I am looking into what kind of converter I may need, but dont want to do anything that might have other repercussions.
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#42
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Circuit breakers can run at nearly 1 1/2 times the rating and either not trip, or take an hour or more to trip. Fuses are double the rating, although cables should be sized according to the circuit protection
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#44
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Funny, in 30 years of designing electronics for the US market, Ive not met any American engineers who refer colloquially to their supply voltage as anything but 110. Yes, we all know whats delivered at the pole, officially, but its a pretty dumb idea given generally higher cable drops than ours to use 120 as the basis for the supply. High supply voltages are a rarity in the US system in my actual direct experience
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