Converting your UK Appliances to work in the US
Nov 5th 2013, 6:35 pm
#48
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Re: Converting your UK Appliances to work in the US
A fuse will interrupt current quickly if enough current flows as in short circuit faults. It may interrupt the current in an overload situation, depending on how much current flows, the type of fuse being used and how long the overload is present for.
If you overload most houses fuses with double the current, it'll more than likely 'blow' in around an hour. Less than double and it may not blow at all
If you overload most houses fuses with double the current, it'll more than likely 'blow' in around an hour. Less than double and it may not blow at all
Nov 5th 2013, 7:21 pm
#49
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Re: Converting your UK Appliances to work in the US
A fuse will interrupt current quickly if enough current flows as in short circuit faults. It may interrupt the current in an overload situation, depending on how much current flows, the type of fuse being used and how long the overload is present for.
If you overload most houses fuses with double the current, it'll more than likely 'blow' in around an hour. Less than double and it may not blow at all
If you overload most houses fuses with double the current, it'll more than likely 'blow' in around an hour. Less than double and it may not blow at all
I`ve seen very special, computer monitored circuit breakers that will break 100,000 amps plus....then they have to be rebuilt
Nov 5th 2013, 7:40 pm
#50
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Re: Converting your UK Appliances to work in the US
SO if input volts = 120 and output volts = 240, then the current in the input is TWICE the current in the output.
OK ?
OK ?
And heating in the wires = current^2 x resistance
So with TWICE the current, you have FOUR TIMES more heating in the wires.
AND some abominations lurk in the USpower system, including aluminium wires....
So with TWICE the current, you have FOUR TIMES more heating in the wires.
AND some abominations lurk in the USpower system, including aluminium wires....
I am no electrician, so whilst all the formulas look fun
, they dont mean a huge amount to me. What I dont understand is:You have a US power supply from a wall socket. You plug in a step converter that will amplify the US supply 110/120v (since both get quoted). You then plug a 220v appliance into the step converter. So from my simple minded perspective, we have a one way flow of electricity going from 110/120 to 220. The additional heat generated, I was assuming would have been in the converter (so it would be designed to deal with this). Where is the heat going back into the US 110/120?
I realise that what you are saying is correct must be correct, I just dont quite understand it.
Nov 5th 2013, 8:19 pm
#51
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Re: Converting your UK Appliances to work in the US
The additional heat generated, I was assuming would have been in the converter (so it would be designed to deal with this). Where is the heat going back into the US 110/120?
I realise that what you are saying is correct must be correct, I just dont quite understand it.[/QUOTE]
The wrong bit is that the converter doesn`t get hot. Its not like an electric fire. Whenever electricity goes through a wire, it gets warm. You can't run powerful appliances like a kettle on any normal American wiring, even with a converter.
I'm not an electrician either, I'm a chartered engineer.
I realise that what you are saying is correct must be correct, I just dont quite understand it.[/QUOTE]
The wrong bit is that the converter doesn`t get hot. Its not like an electric fire. Whenever electricity goes through a wire, it gets warm. You can't run powerful appliances like a kettle on any normal American wiring, even with a converter.
I'm not an electrician either, I'm a chartered engineer.
Nov 5th 2013, 8:23 pm
#52
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Re: Converting your UK Appliances to work in the US
The wrong bit is that the converter doesn`t get hot. Its not like an electric fire. Whenever electricity goes through a wire, it gets warm. You can't run powerful appliances like a kettle on any normal American wiring, even with a converter.
I'm not an electrician either, I'm a chartered engineer.
I'm not an electrician either, I'm a chartered engineer.
If you hop on Amazon or other sites selling these converters, they talk about running EU/UK appliances off them in US no problem, including appliances with motors providing they have sufficient watts.
Is it fair to say that your advice is, if you dont know what the wiring is in a US home, dont assume it is new and up to the task?
Nov 5th 2013, 9:00 pm
#56
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Re: Converting your UK Appliances to work in the US
You have a US power supply from a wall socket. You plug in a step converter that will amplify the US supply 110/120v (since both get quoted). You then plug a 220v appliance into the step converter. So from my simple minded perspective, we have a one way flow of electricity going from 110/120 to 220. The additional heat generated, I was assuming would have been in the converter (so it would be designed to deal with this). Where is the heat going back into the US 110/120?
Especially when you bung the converter behind the tele, or where ever else doesn't get a good air flow and that allows a build up of dust.
Nov 5th 2013, 9:50 pm
#57
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Re: Converting your UK Appliances to work in the US
what is this "turntable" of which you speak?
Even if he does have a turntable it will likely not depend on the mains frequency if it is a high end unit (and if it isn't there is usually a pulley that can be changed).
CD players have electronically controlled low voltage variable speed motors- they do not run directly off the mains.
Even if he does have a turntable it will likely not depend on the mains frequency if it is a high end unit (and if it isn't there is usually a pulley that can be changed).
CD players have electronically controlled low voltage variable speed motors- they do not run directly off the mains.
The turntable and cd player will be fine, and if by some quirk they aren't I will make them so.
I can run an external power supply for the turntable or sort out the motor itself (it is high-end enough to use belt drive from the motor). The cd player isn't affected by mains frequency as someone stated.
Yes I do have a turntable and about 1k albums (I lost 1k in a previous divorce), it is my primary source. Although I'm not entirely sure I'll be taking it over.... oh damn it .. of course I will be somehow, sometime.
It would cost me circa £3k to find one good enough to replace it (2nd-hand).
Likewise the cd player would be around £1k for similar.
Both were high end and have been extensively modified since.
I may leave the power amp behind and build a new one. Likewise the speakers, will probably take the drive units and build enclosures to suit the new place.
I can ship the whole system (minus speakers) for about £150-£170 so a no-brainer really.
I'd best go read the rest now and catch up.
Nov 6th 2013, 8:45 am
#58
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Re: Converting your UK Appliances to work in the US
Funny, in 30 years of designing electronics for the US market, Ive not met any American engineers who refer colloquially to their supply voltage as anything but 110. Yes, we all know whats delivered at the pole, officially, but its a pretty dumb idea given generally higher cable drops than ours to use 120 as the basis for the supply. High supply voltages are a rarity in the US system in my actual direct experience
Dec 6th 2013, 12:13 am
#59
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Re: Converting your UK Appliances to work in the US
We need to use our Kenwood chef and also our sewing machine here in the USA. Can you really just change the plug???
Dec 6th 2013, 12:27 am
#60
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Re: Converting your UK Appliances to work in the US
Have you checked if either can deal with the appropriate voltage range (usually says something like 100V-240V on the label if they can)?
If not, then you need a step-up transformer and a fairly hefty one in your case.
Just changing the plug and trying it out is a good way to blow a few fuses and have some fireworks, but not a recommended way to verify if the appliances actually work on 120V.
If not, then you need a step-up transformer and a fairly hefty one in your case.
Just changing the plug and trying it out is a good way to blow a few fuses and have some fireworks, but not a recommended way to verify if the appliances actually work on 120V.