TOOLS

How can i use my 110v tools in the USA? For instance sander 110v 180w do i just need a plug adapter or converter?
thank you in advance

Pulaski

Where are you bringing it from? Most countries that use 110V have a system that is similar to/ compatible with US power and sockets, so my initial reaction is that you wouldn't even need a plug adapter.

Olly_

The OP says UK in the title, building sites in the UK use power tools with a 110V center tapped earth transformer for safety - each conductor is only 55V potential to ground.

They probably would work with a US plug on but remember the US is 60Hz not 50Hz so motors will run faster.

Pulaski

That's interesting, I didn't know that.
OK, but what sort of plug do they have - a British 13A three pin?

People who know more about motors than I do have advised in the past that most motors won't run at a different speed if the mains has a different frequency.

Olly_

An example of one here... https://www.screwfix.com/p/carroll-m...nsformer/84144

It's a special type of plug, two hots and a ground so similar to how a US 240V appliance works I guess.

I think the motor situation depends on the type of motor - induction motors will run at a different speed.

Pulaski

Based on this guy's experience, it appears that he should be able to just snip off the plug and replace it with a US standard 3-pin (available at any Lowe's, Home Depot, or electrical contractor supplier), which will have 110V in one pin and neutral (ground) in the other, but the tool won't care so long as there is 110V-120V across the two pins..

As it appears that a UK 110V plug is a bit idiosyncratic, I suspect that getting an adapter might be a problem, but in any case, for power tool purposes I would always recommend replacing the plug anyway as the safer and preferable alternative to using an adapter.

zzrmark

I bought my 110v Makita skill saw over here, chopped the plug off and put on a US plug, it works fine, would work even better if I could locally source the right size blade for it. The closest I can find is 7 1/4" which is a tad dinky for it and makes it all but useless.

Pulaski

You need 7½" (190mm)? https://www.amazon.com/Makita-90629-2-Inch-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B00080C3VQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=TXY25O82T3ZX&dchild=1&keywords=7+1%2F2+circular+saw+blade&qid=1593742990&sprefix=7+1%2F2+%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-3.

zzrmark

Yup, as is Axminster Power Tools, one day I'll get around to ordering the right size online. Mañana

TOOLS

FROM the UK it has a a type d OR M plug now although im not really sure the difference in D or M plug types.

TOOLS

ok thank you i was hoping for AN adapter. i took apart the plug and it only has two wires. Now does it grey one need to match up to the white usa wire?

Olly_

Don't blame me if it blows up but if it only has two wires it isn't grounded so just connect the two wires to the hot and neutral pins (doesn't matter which) of a US plug and it'll probably work fine.

Pulaski

I agree, with the caveat that if you can work out which wire in the tool connects directly to the trigger switch, you should connect that one to the small pin in a US plug (on a two-pin US plug, one pin is usually slightly wider that the other, so the plug can only be plugged in one way around) , which connects to the 110v supply.

S Folinsky

FWIW, Skilsaw is a trademark, but one which has come to be genericized. (BTW, it has only one “L”). I’ve inherited two of my dad’s 1950’s worm drive Skilsaws. Funny thing is they still make them, but now with brushless motors. And in absolute dollars, they cost the same; the tooling must be long amortized I guess. Back in the day, Skilsaws were the only saws seen on job sites (and Milwaukee for heavy duty drill motors). I’ve noted that Mikita, Bosch and DeWalt are the brands of choice these days.

On the size of the blade, 7 1/4 inch (184 mm) is big enough for a 45 deg bevel cut of a standard 2 x 4 used in framing. If doing 90 deg straight cuts, the plate would be adjusted to expose less of the blade. A 4 x 4 would require 2 cuts with the second cut often by hand. (And I’m talking the old un-planed “true” dimensioned framing lumber. And being old growth, the old stuff was a lot denser).

Many carpenters would remove the safety shield. Dad never did that. It was dangerous enough because one would sometimes cut the power cord (oops).

zzrmark

I'm obviously picking up the native lingo, although I refuse to call a reciprocating saw a sword saw. Us older Brit wood butchers preferred Elu and DeWalt when it's tools were Green and Orange. Then Elu were acquired by DeWalt who eventually ended up in Black and Decker who in turn merged with Stanley. Me, I'm a Makita and Hitachi man given the choice and budget.

7 1/4" is still dinky, I was used to throwing a 260mm circular saw round all day long on bits of Burmese teak and English oak, although you haven't lived until you've spent a couple of hours with a 6+" electric hand planer...

In all my years of working with power tools (both as a kid and a tradesman) I have never once cut through a power cord, nor had I known anyone else to either, then I moved over here, bought a cheap and cheerful 7 1/4" Ryobi, my boss borrowed it and managed to cut through the cord before the saw was even two weeks old.