Rete

My sister had no problem with matching her laminate flooring with the wood used on the stairs. Apparently it is often done.

My laminate is called Golden Oak. Neither myself nor my husband hear any echoes or tinny noises when walking on the laminate. Footsteps sound much the same as on the tile flooring in the kitchen, laundry room and dining room.

Personally, I didn't like my friends Prego flooring and certainly do not like the one that ddsrph used. Sorry ddsrph, just a personal opinion. The edges when joined leave a line, which mine doesn't, and one edge looks as if it is already starting to peel.

ddsrph

chawkins99

This is the stuff we installed together with this underlay. It is 12mm thick but still sounds hollow. It's installed on concrete slab so no other option to secure it really.

You can't see any lines on ours.

I would think Prego would be terrible for flooring.

ddsrph

Rete

I've never heard anyone call laminate flooring Prego UNLESS it was an actual Prego brand name laminate flooring. I wasn't talking about the joint between the laminate and the time floorings but the picture on my right which was your laminate. You can see the seam between the each laminate board and on the second board joint from the baseboard your laminate joint looks as if the first layer of your Prego strip is turning up as in ready to start peeling.

If you look at my picture of the installed laminate, you will not see a seam between the boards as you do in your flooring.

ddsrph

Steerpike

FYI, some laminate flooring intentionally presents a border. https://www.bestlaminate.com/blog/wh...looring-edges/

The one I'm looking at, for example - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pergo-XP...0773/205661735 you can clearly see an 'edge' to each plank, and that is intentional. They have three edge styles: beveled, pressed, square. The beveled edge is most pronounced; 'pressed' is less pronounced, and 'square' is 'no edge'. Whether you like this or not is a matter of choice, of course. This may or may not be what is going on in the picture you are discussing.

Of the various pergo products on HD.com, 61 are beveled, 64 are pressed, and 22 are square.

Rete

Thanks for the info, Steerpike. I know it is a matter of preference and I stated such in your response. For me, I don't like the look of Prego products and I found the experiences of others with it to be unsatisfactory. Again, my personal thoughts.

ddsrph

Pulaski

About ten years ago a mature pine, 95ft tall, started to bend, and then lean, until it snagged in another pine that was nearly as tall. The two rubbed together in the wind, making a creaking and groaning noise, but as they didn't threaten property I left them, hoping that sooner or later snow or an ice storm would snap the top off, as had happen to three other pines within 20ft. I waited, and waited, and eventually, in September 2018, Frances snapped the top of the tree .... the tree that was being leaned on! Worse, the broken piece, around 25ft of pine trunk, didn't fall the the ground, it remained horizontal, about 65ft off the ground, still attached to the trunk at one end, and caught up in another tree at the other end.

So I looked at problem many times, this way and that, but decided that if I tried to do it myself I couldn't let it fall the way it was leaning, and if I wanted to pull it back with a rope I would have to throw a rock with with a string, to get the rope up into the tree, which would probably get snagged, and then if I pulled the tree back as I felled it, it would probably snag on another tree, perhaps pushing on another mature pine behind it, and ultimately flatten other trees that I didn't want to lose. Oh, and it might be a bit risky.

So I called a tree surgeon I know, with a bucket truck, to take the tops off. .... But his crew couldn't get the truck close enough, soooo .... they used a rock with a string attached, and as they pulled the rope up it got snagged. When they got the rope secured to their winch, and pulled on the tree, as it fell it pushed on another mature pine, almost pulling that one out of the ground, and when it fell, it flattened a rather nice dogwood I didn't want to lose. So an all-round roaring success!

But on the other hand it didn't put my neck at risk.

Now it's time to get out my chainsaw, and I should have 7-9 10ft pine logs for the sawmill, and another 3-4 8-10ft oak logs too, from the tree that Frances flattened.

Hotscot

Reminds me of the Dad's Army episode where they were stuck in a tower.
One of them, probably Pike, suggested someone fires an arrow with a thread attached to a string attached to a rope etc only to be told 'Don't be stupid!'

They eventually got rescued after someone fired an arrow with a thread...

Steerpike

Two things...
1) pictures!
2) how much did this cost you?

Pulaski

1) didn't take any of the felling in action. …. I haven't even taken any of the felled trees yet.
2) Well they quoted $300, and stood by that, but the "bonus" tree that came down was another one that I wanted felled anyway, so I paid then $400. Do bear in mind though that I only asked that they be brought down - no other work was to be provided, because I will do all the cutting up and disposal myself. I have a contact for someone who will take the logs to the sawmill for me, so I don't expect to need to move the logs too far. …. I have heard of people being quoted $500-$1,000 per tree or more for "full clear-up service", especially when close to buildings where the tree has to be "dismantled" rather than felled in one piece.

In other news, I have my chainsaw back. It only too them five months! I am really not sure what took the time as it was almost entirely labour that was required (estimated $225), so open up the engine and install new bar lug bolts (like a car's wheel lug bolts), a few dollar's worth of parts. Along the way they discovered that the ignition coil had failed, so that was another $90. I was expecting a bill for around $400, but one of the business owners was so embarrassed by the exceptional delay, which was nothing to do with me, and so she wrote off the labour entirely and I walked out with my saw having paid $95 for parts.

Hotscot

Couldn't have fixed it yourself? Tut, tut...

Pulaski

You'd think replacing the bar lugs would be easy, but they are inserted from within the engine, which is a clamshell type structure, so you have to split open the entire engine just to insert the lug bolts from inside, and I tried, but decided I didn't have the time and risked being left with a pile of bits I couldn't reassemble. Still the saw is at least 20 years old, so I am hoping it will now be good for another 20 years of occasional service.