|
Re: Home and garden projects
Originally Posted by Lion in Winter
(Post 13189433)
.... The tap has two screws on the underside of the bit that sticks out perpendicular to the wall, so I expect that may be what you are referring to there. No idea if the Tiny Town hardware store has such things. This building was remodelled in 1998, so I expect the tap dates from then by the looks of it. ....
Here's what it probably looks like inside. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/british...0889bae423.jpg |
Re: Home and garden projects
Originally Posted by Pulaski
(Post 13189454)
I have no idea what those screws are - I don't recognise them at all. I was talking about once you removed the top using a spanner on the nut-like cap, inside the tap, the washer is likely held in place with a screw. ...... I do wonder if one of those screws underneath is capable of shutting off the water? :unsure:
Here's what it probably looks like inside. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/british...0889bae423.jpg Ah, ok, now I understand. I don't know about the screws under the tap. They don't go any tighter. Is it possible that loosening them could shut something? |
Re: Home and garden projects
Originally Posted by Lion in Winter
(Post 13189460)
.... I don't know about the screws under the tap. They don't go any tighter. Is it possible that loosening them could shut something?
ETA A quick bit or search suggests that a screw on the underside is to drain the water out, before winter, so it doesn't freeze, or to let air in to enable water to be drained out further back down the supply pipe, which assumes a drain valve has been installed. I still have no idea why there are two of them though! :rolleyes: |
Re: Home and garden projects
Originally Posted by Pulaski
(Post 13189462)
I don't think so - if they're fully tightened then they might already be restricting the flow, but then I have no idea why there would be two of them. :confused:
ETA A quick bit or search suggests that a screw on the underside is to drain the water out, before winter, so it doesn't freeze, or to let air in to enable water to be drained out further back down the supply pipe, which assumes a drain valve has been installed. I still have no idea why there are two of them though! :rolleyes: I think I'll just ignore them. That approach usually works for me. I did fix the washing machine door catch the other day though. Took the door off and took it apart and everything, and even got it all back together successfully.:lol: |
Re: Home and garden projects
Originally Posted by Lion in Winter
(Post 13189433)
So with the assistance of google I think I've found the stopcock in the hole in the ground that also houses the water meter, up at the parking level behind the house and just above the courtyard garden. Seems I also need a thing called a universal stopcock key to turn the thing, which needless to say I haven't got although they aren't expensive or difficult to get. I just haven't got one. Or a decent wrench really, although I should have all these things.
The tap has two screws on the underside of the bit that sticks out perpendicular to the wall, so I expect that may be what you are referring to there. No idea if the Tiny Town hardware store has such things. This building was remodelled in 1998, so I expect the tap dates from then by the looks of it. If there is an internal stopcock, I don't think it would help because the outside tap seems to be directly connected to the incoming water supply before it goes inside the house. |
Re: Home and garden projects
Originally Posted by Oakvillian
(Post 13189498)
potential alternative quick fix at least til after the weekend: get one of those quick-connect hose connector things from a garden or hardware supplier (Hozelock or Gardena are the big brands, I think) - some of them have either an additional valve or an auto-shut-off in the bit that connects to the hose bib when the hosepipe isn't connected. If the leak is coming through the valve rather than leaking out at the washer, as looks to be the case, all you need is to add another shut-off of some kind downstream.
|
Re: Home and garden projects
|
Re: Home and garden projects
|
Re: Home and garden projects
Originally Posted by Oakvillian
(Post 13189498)
potential alternative quick fix at least til after the weekend: get one of those quick-connect hose connector things from a garden or hardware supplier (Hozelock or Gardena are the big brands, I think) - some of them have either an additional valve or an auto-shut-off in the bit that connects to the hose bib when the hosepipe isn't connected. If the leak is coming through the valve rather than leaking out at the washer, as looks to be the case, all you need is to add another shut-off of some kind downstream.
Oooh. Clever idea, thank you. How do I check the size? Just measure across the diameter of the tap opening? Measured that way it's 3/4 inch so seems right. |
Re: Home and garden projects
Originally Posted by Oakvillian
(Post 13189498)
..... If the leak is coming through the valve rather than leaking out at the washer, as looks to be the case, all you need is to add another shut-off of some kind downstream.
All the water reaching the tap comes through the washer, even if it is leaking out around the valve stem. The water can then either leak out of the tap, where you attach a hose, or it can leak from the top, around the valve stem (the rod with the washer on the bottom end and the handle on the top end). Opening the tap means that the washer is lifted up out of the valuve seat and can pass the washer to come out of the tap. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/british...a2631f8577.jpg I had assumed that water was leaking out of the tap, but if water is leaking out of the valve stem, up near the handle [1] it is only likely to do so when the tap is turned on so that water can flow, and [2] it requires that the top of the tap (up inside, around the valve stem) be "repacked", meaning that the string and grease wound around the top of the valve stem be removed and replaced. ..... It can be done, but I have never done that myself. |
Re: Home and garden projects
Originally Posted by Pulaski
(Post 13189525)
:confused:
All the water reaching the tap comes through the washer, even if it is leaking out around the valve stem. The water can then either leak out of the tap, where you attach a hose, or it can leak from the top, around the valve stem (the rod with the washer on the bottom end and the handle on the top end). Opening the tap means that the washer is lifted up out of the valuve seat and can pass the washer to come out of the tap. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/british...3fbb1dd47b.jpg I had assumed that water was leaking out of the tap, but if water is leaking out of the valve stem, up near the handle [1] it is only likely to do so when the tap is turned on so that water can flow, and [2] it requires that the top of the tap (up inside, around the valve stem) be "repacked", meaning that the string and grease wound around the top of the valve stem be removed and replaced. ..... It can be done, but I have never done that myself. |
Re: Home and garden projects
Originally Posted by Oakvillian
(Post 13189530)
.... Before repacking & regreasing the string round the valve stem if it leaks from there (I*ve done one, years ago at my parents' place, and it didn't work very well!) ....
..., it seems clear that the washer isn't seating properly at the "closed" position, probably because the (rubber) washer has gone all brittle and will no longer seat properly against the years' worth of crud and limescale which was dislodged when the tap was opened. |
Re: Home and garden projects
Originally Posted by Pulaski
(Post 13189525)
:confused:
All the water reaching the tap comes through the washer, even if it is leaking out around the valve stem. The water can then either leak out of the tap, where you attach a hose, or it can leak from the top, around the valve stem (the rod with the washer on the bottom end and the handle on the top end). Opening the tap means that the washer is lifted up out of the valuve seat and can pass the washer to come out of the tap. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/british...a2631f8577.jpg I had assumed that water was leaking out of the tap, but if water is leaking out of the valve stem, up near the handle [1] it is only likely to do so when the tap is turned on so that water can flow, and [2] it requires that the top of the tap (up inside, around the valve stem) be "repacked", meaning that the string and grease wound around the top of the valve stem be removed and replaced. ..... It can be done, but I have never done that myself.
Originally Posted by Oakvillian
(Post 13189530)
True, I may not have worded that very well - I did indeed mean "out of the end of the tap and not up through the valve stem." Before repacking & regreasing the string round the valve stem if it leaks from there (I*ve done one, years ago at my parents' place, and it didn't work very well!) it's worth trying to tighten the stem down into the housing - the upper, thinner nut in Pulaski's helpfully annotated version of LiW's outdoor tap :). Grip the larger nut or the tap casting itself with one wrench, and tighten the top nut down against it with another. That will squeeze the packing around the valve stem a bit tighter into the space it occupies. But again, looking at the picture, it seems clear that the washer isn't seating properly at the "closed" position, probably because the (rubber) washer has gone all brittle and will no longer seat properly against the years' worth of crud and limescale which was dislodged when the tap was opened.
Originally Posted by Pulaski
(Post 13189533)
That would be my fear, I've never actually tried it myself.
Agreed, it is most likely that the washer has either worn down, or is brittle and cracked, or has been damaged by something abrasive, such as limescale or other mineral particles in the water. Or all three! :lol: This is all extremely thorough! Yes, all the water is coming out of the bottom of the tap - you can even see the stuff in the pic although Pulaski didn't label the water :p The water is very hard here, mineral deposits about everywhere. I'm going to get that hose fitting that Oakvillian suggested to tide me over. I only rent here so I"m reluctant to mess with it too much as I would enjoy actually fixing it myself. If I mess something up that wouldn't be great with landlord and he does say he'll come and deal with it. If he weren't attentive it would be a different matter. I'm mostly nervous about turning off the water to the house and I would have to get a stopcock key for that, too. |
Re: Home and garden projects
Originally Posted by Lion in Winter
(Post 13189537)
.... If I mess something up that wouldn't be great with landlord and he does say he'll come and deal with it. If he weren't attentive it would be a different matter. ....
That said, even if the tap is dripping fairly frequently, you're likely to spend several times as much on that auxiliary valve as you would save in water over a week or two. I also suspect that after an hour or two that the water leaking around the washer will equalize the pressure on both sides i.e. the auxiliary valve will be trying to hold back water at mains pressure, and will also leak. :unsure: |
Re: Home and garden projects
Originally Posted by Pulaski
(Post 13189538)
It's great if he's attentive - I'm sure he has plenty of spare time to fix things at his rentals. :rofl:
|
| All times are GMT -12. The time now is 4:41 pm. |
Powered by vBulletin: ©2000 - 2026, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.