MidAtlantic

I agree. I had a sudden lack of flow in my kitchen tap a couple of years ago and it took me far too long to work out that it was that mesh that was partially blocked. In my case it just unscrewed and could be easily cleaned.

Nutek

That seems like a very worthwhile project.

Pulaski

Looking at the picture Steerpike posted it's hard to tell, but his might be https://www.amazon.com/Polished-Chrome-Waterfall-Bathroom-Faucet/dp/B01N0UAFVV, which doesn't appear to have a screw-in grid.

MidAtlantic

Yeah, I wondered about that. No artsy-fartsy taps in my house

Steerpike

Wow - it looks EXACTLY like that!!!! And interestingly, it's a 'no-name' brand. I just got back from my local Ace hardware (less selection, more people on hand to help) and they didn't have anything appropriate for the 'brass ring' removal, but they did have a 'cartridge' that looked identical. It was a kohler brand:


I'd be willing to buy it and try it but ... without the removal tool, I'm stuck. So now it's off to Home Depot to see what they have. I also have a local 'pro' plumbing supply store, so I'll try that too.

For the record, I HATE this faucet! At full power, water positively blasts out, and splashes everywhere; at lower levels, the water dribbles and spurts in a very unpleasing manner. It was in the house when we arrived. Anyway - off in search of the 'puller' tool.

Pulaski

I thought it might be, as I searched a good bit (Google images) and couldn't find a match in any of the common US brands - Kohler, Price-Pfister, American Standard, etc. The one I linked is very similar to yours, it appears to be a no-brand tap, but unlike yours has a narrow collar around the base, so yours may be an earlier version.
Which is why most US taps have a grid, as it moderates the flow and streamlines it, whether at high pressure or just a dribble.

Steerpike

Ugh ... electrical problem. Just failed a city inspection on a bathroom remodel (that only included new counter and cabinet, no electrical work at all). The inspector tested the GFCI socket next to the sink; the socket correctly 'tripped' but when he then pressed 'reset' on the socket, it did NOT reset. Circuit breaker was NOT tripped. This wiring was not changed in the remodel; it was 'inherited' when we bought the place.

I just investigated, and found (after the inspector had left) that the GFCI socket in the bathroom (bathroom 1) is tied to the GFCI socket in bathroom 2. Once I reset the socket in bathroom 2, the socket in bathroom 1 could be reset and worked. I tested again; pressing 'test' on bathroom 1 socket tripped the GFCI socket in bathroom 2; resetting bathroom 2 GFCI socket allowed me to reset the socket in bathroom 1.

In my view, this is 'safe', in that, I have multiple GFCI's protecting me, but - I can imagine it is not 'code' to have one GFCI socket 'downstream' from another GFCI socket. Is that ok or not? If I show the inspector that another GFCI socket DID trip when he did his test, will he accept that?

One thought I have is to replace the GFCI socket in bathroom 1 with a regular socket, putting a sticker on it showing that it IS GFCI protected by the upstream socket in bathroom 2. But again - is that code (to have a bathroom socket not 'natively' protected, but rather protected by another GFCI socket in another room)?

Any thoughts from the brain trust? I'm desperately trying to get the inspection signed off as I'm running out of time ...

ETA - simple diagram of what is currently in place.

Pulaski

We have one GFCI that covers two bathrooms, so I would considered that to be normal, and is code-acceptable in NC, or at least was at the time the house was built ..... and I would guess still is. And yes, my recommendation would be to remove the downstream GFCI and pretend it hadn't existed.

tom169

That's what I'd do.

I'd probably also use it as an excuse to buy a simple gfci tester.

Pulaski

I'd use it as an excuse to buy a professional-grade electrical multi-tester. ​​​​

mommapudding

I got some channels that glue or screw in and diffusers for mine that are upside down from Lee Valley. (Fascinating catalogs)
I also sourced the components from other cheaper suppliers,that I’d need to dim them from looking closely at their kits on offer. Works a treat.

Steerpike

Wow - thanks for the tip! Looks like Lee Valley has some interesting accessories! (example: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...e-led-lighting ). Dimming is my next challenge; the lights are much brighter than I expected. The lights themselves are so cheap, and installation so easy, I viewed this project as a 'learner' project, quite willing to re-do the whole thing from scratch based on experience.

I've invested pretty heavily in my Samsung SmartThings automation hub, including light switches, dimmers, motion sensors, etc. As much as I love to tinker and play, my g/f has no patience for any of it; she wants a wall switch to turn things on/off, so I've been focusing on switches such as these -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4F487U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1which are 100% manual in addition to wireless controlled. So she can turn the lights on/off, or dim up/down, using the mechanical wall switch while I can programmatically do the same from afar.

SpoogleDrummer

When were the sockets installed? I have multiple GFCI sockets on the same circuit and when one trips it doesn't trip the others so it's possible one of yours is faulty or incorrectly installed.

Steerpike

They were already present when I moved in last year; no idea of age. What you are saying is, if you have multiple GFCI's on a circuit, they should trip 'themselves' rather than trip the 'upstream' device? At this point, I've bought a standard (non-GFCI) outlet to replace the one in the bathroom. Sounds like that should pass inspection. After that, I can decide if I want to do more.

SpoogleDrummer

Exactly. I've got 3 on the same circuit and it would be a real pain if I had to go through resetting each one as one of them is outside.