Re: emptying of swimming pool
 

The chances of that happening are quite slim.

I get the feeling you are here to flog a few salt water pools. ;-))
My experience with them is the same as Beachcombers, I wouldn`t give them the time of day.
Over sold, over priced and over here.

Re: emptying of swimming pool
 

Thankyou for your opinion.

If you have never owned a saltwater system then you may not understand how they work or what they do.

We supply all systems and deal in facts and honesty.

Everything we supply is thouroughly researched and that is where our information comes from.
a saltwater pool is a very convinient way to administer chlorine, it does so everytime the system operates you do not have to be there, you can go on holiday, it superchlorinates as the water passes through the cell removing Chloramines - Which you have to do by regular super chlorination, your pool is then out of action until the chlorine settles back down.

If you use Chlorine then it's the same just you don't buy chlorine anymore it;'s salt.
The chlorine you purchase has most likely been manufactured by this very same method or worse from an environmentally unfriendly Mecury plant.

If you are paying for a pool and want a really nice feel to the water, automatic chlorination, without any hassle then provided you buy the correct size unit it is much easier.

Regards Dave

Re: emptying of swimming pool
 

Hi Watermaid,

I beg to differ; the initial price charged for a salt water pool is much more than a standard chlorine tablet pool. The anode only lasts for three years on average and needs constant decalcification.
The costs for running a pool for eight hours a day in the summer must equate to the chlorine for a year. I agree that you can run the pump for an hour a day in the depths of winter, but I think your statement on pump seals & bearings is well overstated, but then again, I am not trying to flog pools.
I note you have resurrected all posts on pools, trade not good?

Davexf

Re: emptying of swimming pool
 

Hi Dxf,
Surprisingly trade this year is better than last year, thanks for your thoughts. the UK pound has been affected but in Euroland there is no difference what it cost last year is the same this year, only the UK is hit with the pound trading so low which affects our UK customers, but they still seem to have budgeted and it's not affected them as much as you would think, perhaps they have received their bank bonuses.

The average life of some cells is 8 years calcification does occur and depending on the design can be removed and cleaned simply and easily. Where pH is maintained between 7.2~7.4 this maintenance only needs carrying out every 2 months in summer and probably 3 months in winter, roughly speaking on my own system.

The point to run a filtration system for anytime at all is to filter the water, this takes time and even calculating how much a pump will shift does not tell if it will filter the water in your pool you have to take into account 'back pressure' dead spots in the pool operation of the valves in the correct position you may just be taking the top off the pool and the bottom may not be circulating at all.

Pump seals and bearings will obviously be affected if they are sitting in high concentrations of chlorine as will the valves and pipework, the best system is to have minimal chlorine ppm but with a tablet in the skimmer you will find that if you measured the chlorine levels it would be iout of range of your test kit especially if you are not diluting it with circulating water.

Please read any pool manual, owning any pool is not about saving money as the first priority, it should be ensuring correct sanitation and water balance which in the long run will save on pool problems and cost later.
If you want to save money you would run your pool system on cheap-rate electricity, cut out the unnecessary commercial chemicals that lots of people throw in their pools and use basic available chemicals which will ensure good pool keeping and provide the necessary sanitising for the bacteria present in pools.

The best device to use is a floater which will distribute chlorine around the pool and provided you backwash enough you will change enough water to ensure you don't end up with a chemical soup.
I would suggest that part of your test kit should be a Cyanuric Acid tester.

A further correction I don't 'flog' anything and certainly do not build pools, there are already enough people dong an excellent job in that area.

Best regards, Dave

Re: emptying of swimming pool
 

I am glad you have changed your name. ;-))

I always thought backwash washed all the crap in the sand filter out to waste, don`t tell me it circulates back into the pool ?

Why don`t you make a list of all these cheapo chemicals that people can get instead of buying the dear ones then, that would be usefull to a lot of us.
Also how to keep them balanced etc.

Re: emptying of swimming pool
 

Hi Jdr (retired)

Trouble is my brain is always gadding about and I need simple things to remember my first name was because it's a company I work for so it's easy, but rules said I should change so poolman was suggested but already used so IONman was my next easiest option - don't ask otherwise I'll tell you.

Really it is very simple and everything in moderation but you don't need every ingredient in the recipe otherwise you'll spoil the cake.

The first rule is Ph whatever else if pH is correct 7.2~7.4 things are mostly good in the world.
Next maintain Chlorine not above 3ppm, preferably 2ppm Spanish Dept. of Health who check public pools work between .6 & 1.6ppm.
Now the reason I suggest lots of backwashing is because the vast majority (not beachcomber) will have massive amounts of Cyanuric Acid - you need 25~40ppm so if you start with 40ppm in one years time you'd check and probably add another cupful at the start of summer temperatures.
The only way to get rid of Cyanuric Acid is to pour water down the drain and by backwashing you will get a cleaner filter.

Once you are at the level use unstabilised chlorine either crystals or liquid, you should test everyday as a minimum - hotels in use every hour.

There are also a whole host of other parameters to check and if you look on our website there is an information section where you can download plenty of information.
The Aussie site is even more detailed with what products to add.
For instance concerned about Algae use Copper sulphate - available from Mercadonna in the pool section, use sparingly as it works just a large spoonful in a watering can sprinkled around the pool - death to Algae.

Another product which is very rarely used is 'Starver' this removes phosphates, Algae of all kinds live on phosphates the more phosphates you have the more they like it and breed, get rid of phosphates and they go hungry, weak and get killed.
Always ensure you give the whole pool shell a good brush, you may notice but sometimes a pool can feel a little slippery, this slippery skin is home to Algae and is on every surface pool shell, pipes, and inside the filter, the sand in the filter provides the largest surface for bacteria inside this 'skin', inside there they are fairly safe from Chlorine and can live and breed until it's time to takeover.

Good routines, filtration and chemical balance will ensure a trouble free pool with a little floculent added to make the water sparkle.

Regards, Dave