the troubadour

It was put to me to write my observations with regards to my recent stay on the Maltese Islands, to which I'm more than happy to comply.

I went there after two previous very short visits to look into the possibility of moving there from Australia and to hopefully gauge the opinions of retirees and other ex pats that had taken the plunge and relocated.

I should emphasis I spent a grand total of two weeks in total, a week on each main island, so hardly the duration of time to pass anything but impressions and feed back from those living on either of the islands.

Overall I enjoyed very much the country. The people are generally very pleasant, easy to engage and as such had some interesting discussions getting Maltese views on life and world view.

I met up with a poster from British Expats....a Mainland European, not a Brit as such, and she passed on some interesting views if life in Gozo after a few years of living there .
This person gave the high and the lows of life in Malta and Gozo in particular.

I met an Australian/Maltese female married to a local that worked in our hotel and was definitely homesick for Melbourne. She missed the shops, the diversity and I take it working life could be better in Malta. She also claimed to still struggle with the language, but sounded to speak fine to me.

The provincialism of the Gozo and especially the smaller towns was raised as an issue. Along with the lack of cultural pursuits in Gozo, although an Opera was being performed "Tosca' from memory at the theatre in the Gozo capital of Victoria when I was in town.

Gozo is lovely. Still underdeveloped thankfully but some concern as to the future building of more apartments and units at seaside locations could become an issue.

I rather liked the lack of opportunity for consumption on the island. Small supermarkets pretty much akin to deli's are the go. Not a place for anyone into clothes or fashion as the style is a little rustic, some may say basic.
A short trip across the water to Malta though will cure anyone of fashion blues or retail withdrawal. Most the British brand names along with a few others can be found as well as modern supermarket and other shopping.
Malta at least Silema and environs is a world removed from the simplicity of life in Gozo.

Still Gozo is far from forgotten. There were still considerable numbers of tourists all considered for time of year when there.
It should be remembered Malta is very close to Italy, so very popular with Italian tourists who appear surprised the locals speak to them in English, only some speak Italian and that Malta drives on the same side of the road as UK.

Both UK ex pats I met in Malta, were very contented having moved there and cited the weather as a big reason and friendly people.
Coming from Australia the weather would be a lesser attraction but the ease of the place in general to live, the Italian influence in food and behaviour, even the general location being spitting distance to Italy would all ad up to make it a country of worthy consideration.

I found the prices to buy not particularly cheap. I would be inclined to rent only if moving there in the early years.

The location I would like go for would be in or close to the Gozo capital, Victoria. A charming little town, but with a buzz of its own.'

Just to conclude Malta and Gozo have a decent and well used bus system, which has vastly improved from previous visits there. Cheap and excellent all day value.

the troubadour

Had to rush the previous post to a conclusion. I think on reflection a lovely place, especially Gozo , but if lived there would certainly need the 'Malta fix' from time to time as well. I wouldn't probably see myself as living year round though and not entirely sure if it would be enough to sustain myself to be permanently on the island.

If cost was the major consideration South East Asia would easily win out on that basis especially if was required to live of an aged pension.
Also I suspect a stronger ex pat community focus in that region from what I have observed in person than perhaps Malta.

Still for those wanting a place of considerable ease and to be living in an environment without language difficulty, good weather and rather nice place with certain limitations, it would be a good idea to keep Malta in mind.

teejaydee

Many thanks for spending the time to provide this feedback from your visit.

I have been thinking of making a similar trip to see if it would suit me for retirement. Some of my concerns (based on internet research) are as follows:

• Population density in Malta. The highest in Europe apart from Monaco, Gibraltar and Vatican City. Did it feel densely populated? For example in the shops, on buses, in public areas, etc.
  
  
• The weather. My understanding is that the winters are surprisingly cold and damp, and that most houses lack proper heating. Did it feel cold when you were there?
  
  
• Deprivation. The Maltese economy has been struggling, along with many other European countries. Did you see any signs of deprivation, closed shops, etc.?
  
  
• Illegal immigrants. We often hear of people arriving on boats from Africa, and the difficulties the authorities have in dealing with them. Did you see any signs of these refugees wandering around the towns?
  
  
• Tax incentives are said to attract many immigrants from Russia and eastern Europe, in the same way as is the case in Cyprus. Did you see any evidence of this?
  
  
• Language. We read in guide books and the like that most Maltese speak fluent English. Was this your finding, or did you find that only the younger or better educated ones spoke good English?
  
  
• Bird shooters. Did you encounter anyone shooting at birds while you were there. I believe the EU is trying to put a stop to it, but has so far been unsuccessful.

I would be interested to hear any views you may have on these points.

the troubadour

Hi Teejaydee I shall attempt to answer your questions to the best of my ability.

No I can't say anywhere felt really crowded considering the population density. The exception I found was on buses which do indeed get very crowded with many locals forced to stand as tourists subscribe heavily to the service.
I must say I found the locals very good natured about this in my experience during the time there.
Most smaller towns you see very few people around. So I would answer in the negative, although during high summer, I can imagine certain locations challenging.

Yes the humidity even when it got cooler towards the end of my stay was rather high. Don't think I'd experienced such humidity in a cooler climate before. A little odd. Used to the Asian tropics but that was something else.
Never used heating or had the need. I can well believe the cold would be a feature in some of the old stone houses inland during winter.

No while folk in Gozo are hardly rich, I don't recall any signs of deprivation. The country does have a welfare system in place but can't comment on how good it is in caring for the population.
Prices are rather high in tourist areas though which would rule out the average person from partaking as a rule. Ice cream is very popular with locals, I noticed.

Indeed. Malta has one of the highest intakes of refugees within the EU on a population basis. Some 16 per !,000 of population I seem to recall reading.
The Somali born population came in at number two, after UK born in the census of a few years back. I seem to recall Aussie followed by Bulgarian born follow.
Those figures would be out of date and found a surprisingly high number of African folk, mostly young in Victoria the capital of Gozo.
So yes many wandering the streets. Did not witness any issues around this matter.

Yes Russian influence on Malta is certainly there. I noticed a newly built Russian supermarket in Silema and it's said a number are buying apartments in that area at the high end. I was in no position to verify that, obviously, but it would appear the case. Heard Russian spoken but not to a large extent.
Many East Europeans are working in the service industry. Came across a number of Serbs actually but also Czech's and Hungarians.

I don't think I came across anyone Maltese that did not speak English. Obviously some are far more proficient than others, as Maltese is the language they tend to communicate in together.
There is a decent English language daily paper called The Times Of Malta. Very good for learning about local issues and politics as well of course on what is happening externally.
It is a hard language to learn and met no foreigner that had mastered it. Most just stay with English.

Sadly yes. Bird shooting season had just started when I was there. They start shooting very early in the morning. Seems to cut off before lunch in the main or at least it appeared to me.
Just before I arrived in Malta there was a violent confrontation between the pro and anti lobby in Valetta that the police had to break up.
There is a group there attempting to defend the birds and are happy for foreign support. probably better donate something than personally get involved though.
A number of Maltese appear to see it as a cultural right and wouldn't I suspect act well to foreigners taken up arms against then, in a manner of speaking.

I hope I have been able to answer at least in part some of the questions you posed. I'd suggest a trip there and test the waters.
Anything else that comes to mind I shall continue to add to this thread.

the troubadour

One thing I did notice on Gozo at least was the abundance of apartments on the market for rent and in lesser numbers for sale.

This may have been due to the approaching winter off season of course and expect it will be rather different come April/May.

I wonder if there has also been cases of over building in some areas as well? Rents would appear to start from around 450 Euro upwards.

For example a fully furnished seafront apartment accessed by lift, 3 bedrooms (2 doubles) in Sliema was being offered at 1,600 monthly by one estate agent in Sliema.

the troubadour

Forgot to mention teejaydee, aren't you living in Malaysia? Surely not thinking of exchanging that for Malta? Or is the heat and humidity of the tropics getting to much for you? Or perhaps just plain curious? And why not,

teejaydee

Many thanks for taking the trouble to respond to all my questions.

It's reassuring to hear that you found no real sense of the high population density. I lived form a time in Singapore and felt the same - it was densely populated, but it was never that noticeable (apart from in the shopping centres of course .

Yes, I think it would mainly be the stone houses that would feel cold, especially if narrow streets where they received no sunshine during the day. I am sure more modern buildings have better insulation and are less prone to cold and damp.

One thing that attracts me to Malta (versus France or Spain, for example), is the lack of a need to learn the local language. I know in an ideal world all residents should speak the local language, but this takes time and for many will be impossible. From what you found, it would be easily possible to live comfortably without speaking Maltese.

Yes, it's very helpful information. As you suggest, I will take a trip there and see if I could happily retire there.

teejaydee

I'm in Malaysia, but not really living here. I am just on a tourist visa and haven't put down any ties. I was living in Singapore (which I liked) and thought that Malaysia would provide an adequate substitute. So far I'm not convinced, and so am casting my net a bit wider.

In many ways I like Malaysia, but as you say, the heat and (especially) the humidity is not something I enjoy. I'm also not sure I could get used to the lower standard of living in Malaysia.

I have been thinking of Malta or Portugal, but have yet to visit either country. I am in many ways reluctant to move to Europe, given the high cost of living and high taxes (something you will be familiar with in Australia), but the compensations include a better standard of living.

the troubadour

I have lived in Malaysia, but a long time ago. Have been back a few times but not overly convinced, but not entirely rule out the idea. At least an easy language to learn and English is widespread.

Never a fan of Singapore although I understand the upsides. Definitely not a place would live and besides overly expensive these days anyway.

No I don't consider Australia a high taxing country, it is middle range. I support fully a safety net.

Gozo may prove a little too rustic for your tastes. Not sure. It is far more Malaysia than Singapore put it that way. Malta, main island, though more expensive my prove more to your liking in that regard.

Portugal, is one of my favourite countries, and if things would have remained as were in my three month prolonged stay in 1990, would have had no qualms, apart from a difficult language into moving there.
Winters tend to be cold though.

I think a higher standard of living is a matter of economics. On a pension South East Asia would certainly prove to be better with greater spending power.

I don't think either Portugal or Malta could be classed as cheap. As in most places one lives the lifestyle they desire or can afford. Warmer climates for obvious reasons tend by there nature to offer cheaper living costs.

teejaydee

I feel exactly the same (not overly convinced). I am therefore trying to explore other options. Malta is one of these other options.

I liked it, but I know many do not. I agree it's expensive, and of course very difficult to get a visa to live there in retirement.

I meant Australia (and most European countries) has high taxes compared to Malaysia.

I was beginning to think the same way after reading your earlier comments following your visit to Gozo.

I agree regarding the language and cold winters. Realistically I don't think I could master the language, and feel this is not a good way to live in any country.

Gozit

Re cold houses/flats in winter - there's a magical invention called a heater. Use it. You'll be fine

Partly snarky partly I have no sympathy for those who say Malta is cold. I'm sitting in -8 degrees and snow everywhere in Canada right at the minute so anythings better than that for me

You won't need to learn Maltese to live in Malta. English is the second official language and virtually everyone speaks it, except the bloody Italian tourists. Road signs, all signs, etc are all in English too.

the troubadour

For any Australian passport holders interested in taking a look at Malta for possible retirement options for example the following should be noted.

Malta has a Social Security Agreement with Australia to which I take to mean pensions can be paid in Malta, unlike UK for example where the Agreement ceased in 2001.

Australians are also covered in Malta for up to six months in the case of medical emergency. Likewise in Italy.

not2old

OP, do you live year round in Perth Australia, if not, where do you spend your divided time?

After reading all your well put observations, its interesting to read the view from an Australian & very well done, it gives another perspective on Malta from an outsider.

Both Gozit & I have ties to Malta, we are ~50 + years difference in age (that really doesn't matter) and at times we may appear defensive towards any negativity folks might have to Malta, just the same as would those from/living in Australia, the UK, Canada, the US - we'd say its all bollocks & why would anyone want to live in those countries.

I appreciate you posting the facts that you found & what you found. Australia like Canada & the USA are huge open countries with many small density cities, towns & villages (even in the USA), and all majority English speaking & culturally similar.

Small minded, closed minded folks (include in that the Brit expats) that are scattered in Spain, Portugal, Malta, Malaysia, Singapore will tell you 'this, that & the other' it can come off as the 'whinging pom' syndrome.

Malta & especially Gozo would be like living in a mid sized British town. OK, so no huge supermarkets or big box stores (who the heck needs them anyway). Living life in Gozo or the main island of Malta is no different than living in one city, town or village in where you live now, even Fiji, NZ, an island in the Caribbean or Norfolk Island

I figure an Aussie (even an expat from somewhere else) that has lived in Australia for a long while may find it difficult to adjust & settle on a small island because its always the 'comparing back to where one came from (back home this, that & the other).

My view is to each their own lifestyle. What is it one is looking for, what can you afford ... simple. No where is perfect, just like living in OZ on the west coast, south, NT or the Gold coast. Each person living in these areas will have different viewpoints.

I always tell folks that if you intend to live somewhere to call it home, first one must visit, not just once, but several times. If you're not retired & need to work, then that becomes another issue to deal with, just like being an immigrant.

Retired & healthy with some money or enough income to sustain is ideal, as is the ability to be upwardly mobile. Some folks may spend six months a year in two different countries - Brits do it living in the UK who have holiday homes in the sun & sand of Europe.

For me, I would live several choice months in Malta, the UK, Canada & Norfolk Island. Its all doable, as is the choice of others living & rocking back & forth to South East Asia - if you feel safe there & can adapt to that culture, then great, go do it

not2old

the prices are/can be all over the map eh!

its been posted elsewhere that

Frank Salt Real Estate Malta & Property in Malta | Letting in Malta | Real Estate in Malta are popular for rentals & purchase, although the easiest quick snapshot is the following

Long-let Rentals - Gozo Prime Properties

Explore Gozo - Gozo Prime Properties

Gozit