Ka Ora!

What type of plug are you meant to stick on electric hot water tanks?

200 Ltrs

It is 2400 watts rated on it's sticker which I rate at about 10 amps

balding_potter

Ours (same rating as yours) is wired directly (well, via a timer) into the fuse board - 16A disjoncteur. No plug. I think that's probably standard.

Domino

would agree with B_P it is a permanantly installed item and direct wired without a plug/socket would be the surest way - via a timer if you feel the need.

remember the joke about the hospital patient on life support who used to go in to cardiac arrest every evening at 6.05pm
staff couldnt work out what was causing the problem until someone noticed that at 6.05pm the cleaner, needing a socket for her equipment unplugged the life support system to do the cleaning.


hard wire anything that isnt portable.......

Ka Ora!

Ok, Just have to put a junction box on the wall as at the mo the wire comes out the gain and connects directly on to the cumulus which I suspect might be a fault on the impending electrical inspection.

cuthbert

I just installed mine, as I understand it the regs say that it has to be wired directly, but I did mine to a junction box as the tank came with a cable already fitted.

Check here section 6.3

Edit: didn't read the full section, only has to be wired directly if it's zone 1 or 2. So junction box should be OK.

le plumber

Yep - has to be wired (3X2.5G) in directly to a 20 or 25amp fuse.

cuthbert

Personally I put it on a 16A breaker, 2.4kW = just under 11A and mine is 3kW = 13.6A. Also have a 2A breaker to protect the EDF Heure Creuse/Pleine line which was linked to the "Commutateur HC/HP"

Domino

just remember that a fuse only protects the electrical device (if you are lucky)

an Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker (or similar name/function device) protects people

Ka Ora!

A disjunctor differential

cyrian

Not disagreeing with you but I read on a UK electricians' forum that the fuse protected the power lead to the appliance.
i.e. the fuse was rated on the capacity of the power lead to prevent burning etc.
The capacity of the power lead also depends on the requirements of the appliance.
As I said, I am not disagreeing with your comment - it is just a slightly different (and interesting) way to think about it.

le plumber

I could be mistaken, but I'm pretty certain that the regulation says that it's 16amp for a fuse and 20amp for a circuit breaker

Ka Ora!

Ours is on a 20 Amp breaker which was fine for the DTT as was the termination box next to the Cumulus, I don't quite understand why an Electric oven has to be on a 32 amp circuit unless they expect someone to stick a hob on it as well or a totally stand alone Electric combo. But it increases the size of the differential interrupter needed on that row of breakers.

Earth's seem to be important and that all trip switches work, He checked that every radiator was earthed and that every socket earth was correct.

Lp do you know if it is possible to get replacement underside covers for De Dietrich Cumulus's as somewhere along the way I lost ours. I would feel better if I replaced it as you know there are lots of bare wires on the underside of a Cumulus when it's on a stand.

cuthbert

Did you have the inspection today, all good I hope?

re; the oven I think that's the nail on the head, at over 7kW that's one big oven, so can only imagine it to include a hob or some such.

I have to say the number of breakers and RCDs I'm seeing in new builds are getting ridiculous. I went OTT when I rewired my house with 7 RCDs and around 30 breakers. When I did it originally I only had three, but every time there was a lightning strike on the mountain on which I live it would trip one of the levels if not the main breaker. So EDF installed a delayed main breaker and I upped it to 7 in total, and since then have been fine. But I'm seeing friends houses being built where it's almost a breaker per socket etc.

Ka Ora!

Yes it went well corrugated Asbestos on the grange that we all knew about, And one wrong light fitting, Personally I would prefer to have every socket and light on it's own breaker and they should design light switches with built in junction boxes it cost's more but allows for more future expandability, We had lightening issues for a while but I put in a parafoudre module

le plumber

Thats a good question, and to be honest I'm not too sure. However I don't see why not though. You'd have to get in touch with your local (professional) plumbing supplier with the reference of your cumulus. Might be a bit pricey though for a bit of plastic plus P&P, but its better to have the wires etc protected.