Brian williamson

Hi
I have just booked in for my LEA and was wondering if anyone has completed these assessment latley and could give me a heads up on them.
Brian

derren7

Hi Brian,
Can't give you a heads up on this one. There is a poster named Arthur whose posting name is The _Pom_from _Aus. He pops up now and again here and is also known as No1spark on another well known expat site. I've tried to find a post by him so that you can PM him but I'm half cut now so will try again tomorrow. If you can find him he'll be able to give you a heads up. He's based in Melbourne and knows tie ins and outs of the licencing process.
Regards Derren

paulf

I've done the LET and can say if you download the sample test from the EPIC website you will be pleasantly surprised when you do the real thing, very very similar.

For SWP if you haven't done the tutorial there is a website for electricians that gives you the exact step by step, word for word way it's done, it's under the sub forum FINAL EXAMS.

Ain't done the prac LEP Yet

I'll private message the forum name, dunno if I'm allowed to post it here,

Below is SWP. 1st part is disconnect, followed by ........ Reconnect lol

paulf

This is a step by step guide to the

Disconnection Process

- Personnel to be notified in immediate area that you are to commence disconnection and interruption of supply ( Personnel being the examiner)

-Ask will removal of supply to protective devices( c/b's) affect any essential services?

-Test voltage tester at known "LIVE" source to make sure that the tester is working

-Test between know earth and frame/chassis to ensure frame is not live

If you touch the frame/ chassis before you test it to make sure its not live that is an instant fail!

Also when testing between know earth to frame/ Chassis go to a screw or a part that is not pained/ powder coated

Re-test tester on know live as you do when you detect no voltage

- On a piece of paper take down operation details of appliance. Eg. KW and Voltage rating also write your name and contact detail ( this piece of paper is used later on aswell)

- If you are lucky enough to get the 3 phase motor turn it on ( after of course you tested the frame ) and take note of direction of rotation, write this down aswell

-Whilst your in writing mode fill in the danger tags as well, and place them where your going to need them. Eg. one next to the switch board, one next the to the appliance, isolator, etc

-Now its time to locate the circuit and isolate.

even though the switchboard is right next to the appliance they treat it as a separate room, so if you go from doing something in the board to the appliance and visa-versa make sure you close the door/ appliance

Firstly you need to test to make sure there is power at the appliance, So if you have a motor just switch it on, if not you need to make sure all switches are on and or set to max( for the stove), then Take out the tester and test it at the "Known Live", then test the appliance from the Known earth to the appiance terminal( you should detect a voltage, if not something a switch is off of somesort. no need to re test the tester after getting a live reading


If you got the motor it will have to be a 3 pole c/b so it narrows it down to 3 or 4 c/b's. Take your lock dog and affix to 1st c/b , lock it off and place the key in your pocket and close the switchboard

I've been told that for the motor and only for the purpose of locating the correct c/b you can just switch it on via the isolator( you dont have to open it up and test from know earth to conductors)

So switch isolator on, if it starts, stop the motor, go back to the switchboard and lock off the next circuit and place the key back in your pocket, turn the isolator on again.

If the motor starts again repeat steps on till it doesn't start up.

Once you think you have found the correct c/b making sure it is locked off now its time to test to be sure.

test you tester, always before, you only need to test it again after if you have detected no voltage

Test from the known earth to all conductors and then, from protective earth to all conductors.

restest your meter

(it shouldn't be live)


- The procedures above are the same for all other appliances except that when trying to locate the correct c/b you must test from the known earth to the terminals unlike with the motor where you could just use the isolator.

remember to always close up the switch board when going to and from the appliance, and same for the appliance.

also if you get a twin element heater look for a 2 pole c/b and if its the hot water service which is most likely going to be single phase it will be a single phase c/b

- ok so you have located and locked off your circuit, you will now affix one of those danger tags to the lock.

- Before removing any conductors take note of and write down the phase sequence on that piece of paper( so you don't forget the order when you reconnect)

- time to disconnect the conductors, you don't need to retest at this point as you just locked the circuit off and already tested ( the examiner may think you don't trust yourself or don't know what your doing, but he wont mark you down for it if you want to).

pull out each conductor one at a time, leaving the earth till last, attach a piece of tape over it ( just fold it over it length ways, you don't need to tape the shit out of it as it will make it hard on you when you get to the reconnect)

place conductors in the junction box ensuring no bit of the conductor is hanging out.

- remember that piece of paper you wrote on earlier, what your going to do is tape it to the junction box along with another danger tag.

This is meant to simulate if someone else comes to do the reconnect they can contact you or so that you know that when it comes to the reconnect the new appliance will be the correct rating.

- close up the appliance and affix danger tag

- affix danger tag to isolator if there is one.


clean up and that the disconnect part done

Things to remember:

Always test your tester on know live before use
Always re test your tester after it reads no voltage on a test
Always close switchboard door after you do something in it/
Always close appliance when moving to the switchboard

------------------------------

Original by scarfo
Thanks scarfo

paulf

Reconnection Process

- Firstly, Notify personnel of return to work site. What I would say is : Hi Mr. examiner I've come to reconnect said appliance, please notify all your employees that it will be live shortly.

- Next thing you do is make sure ( out loud ) that the appliance being reconnected is of the same operational ratings ( refer back to that piece of paper )

testing again- mega is a brand of IR tester, but people just still refer to all IR testers as meggas.... also you can bring your own, but i would advise against this as I don't believe they allow digital testers if thats what you have

- Alright its time to use the good old IR tester, Firstly test the batteries ( there is a setting for this on most testers)

Batteries are working, alright now to "zero" the tester, set the IR tester to the 3 ohm scale and bridge the two leads, now adjust the needle so that it reads zero, using the adjuster dial.

And just to further show you are taking all measurements to ensure the tester is working, set it to the Meg ohm/V scale, and again bridge the leads and you should read 0, and Infinity when the leads are not touching
..........note no need to zero the meter again using the meg ohm scale, as its not an accurate way to do so........and also don't forget on their analogue testers, there are different scales to read for each setting.

- OK you have now established that the IR tester is working, its time to carry out the IR test of the appliance.

They provide you with 2 or 3 alligator style leads that you will use for this test.

What the examiners like to see you do is bridge all the active and neutral conductors and test between them and an earth contact of the appliance,( remember the screw or other non painted/ powder coated part)

Your reading should read infinity in most cases although i will point out that For an appliance not containing a sheathed element : Not less than 1 Meg ohm.

and If an appliance does contain a sheathed element, like the stove hot plate appliance, then the IR shall not be less that .01 Meg ohm

There is no need to between the effective earth in the appliance and the frame of the appliance yet as you haven't reconnected the sub circuits wiring yet


- now that you have tested the appliance and made sure that it wont blow up when you connect it, you can move on to reconnecting the conductors.

Test your, tester your voltage tester at the know again, you should get the idea by now, but i want to drill it into you

Firstly untape the J-box and remove the danger tag and your piece of paper with contact details and operating ratings, remove the conductors from the J-box.

The reason I told you to tape them with a piece folded over before comes into play now. Being a.) If you had forgotten to tape the conductors and touched them before determining they are not live, you would lose a lot of marks, and b.) taping them the way i told you makes it easier to test them.

You now must test between All conductors and the know earth,

- easiest way i found was firstly put your lead into the the know earth, holding the conductors in one hand and the other lead in your other, begin by peeling back a piece of tape on one of the conductors, now test it, then fold the tape back over after you have have determined that it is dead. re-test the tester at the known live as you have to make sure your meter is not malfunctioning.

Repeat the process for each conductor, however the re-test of the tester needs to only be done after you the test the first conductor and the last. (don't forget the to test the earth as well)


The final Sub circuit conductors must also be tested for Live by testing between all the conductors, including the protective earth...... Basically the same test you just did, except your testing between each conductor and not the know earth. Eg. neutral to active, active to protective earth, and neutral to protective earth.

re test the tester for correct operation on known live source

It is now safe to reconnect the final sub circuit to the appliance terminals. ( remember your piece of paper so that you connect it back the right way)


- Whip that IR tester back out and repeat the process of checking the battery and zeroing on the 3 ohm scale.

Now that that the appliance is connected to the final sub circuit you must carry out a continuity test on the sub circuits earth, So set the IR tester to the 3 Ohm scale and test between the effective earth( conductor connected to your appliance earth) and the frame , outer screw etc of the appliance.
As you should by this stage know your reading should be 0 if the conductor is connected.

Close the appliance up.

-Your next step will be to restore power, but first you must notify personnel that you will be ( the examiner).

Before you leave the appliance, again make sure you have closed it so that you don't leave any exposed live parts.

"walk" over to the switchboard and take the key out of your pocket and remove the lock-dog and switch on the circuit breaker to restore power and close the switch board.


-Check Appliance for correct operation, if you got the motor they will accept to just switch on the isolator and check the direction of rotation, and refer back to your handy piece of paper.

If you didn't get the motor then you must test for live at the terminals.

Open the appliance back up and turn on the isolator or appliance if there is a switch. test from known live to active conductors and then switch the appliance if possible, and make sure your getting correct voltages and switching.

- Close the appliance, clean up your mess if any, and notify personnel that you have finished, appliance is safe to use, and you will be leaving.



AND YOUR DONE, Appliance safely disconnected and reconnected.....

I hope you remembered to test the voltage tester on the know live before you used it when checking the appliance for correct opertion... if not naughty naughty,



Once again some things to remember.

- don't leave the key to the lock dog in the lock
- Always test the voltage tester on know live before use, and after only if you read no voltage
- Always zero and check the batteries of the IR tester
- Never leave the appliance open when moving to the switchboard or visa-versa.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Though I would also add the Instant fail scenarios.

in the disconnection process:
- touching the chasis/frame of appliance before determining its not live
- failing to test the voltage tester at know "LIVE" source for correct operation after use.... but only if no voltage is detected.
- failing to test for "LIVE" before touching the applianec conductors.

in the reconnection process:
- failing to test for "LIVE" before touching final sub circuit conductors
- failing to test the voltage tester at know "LIVE" source for correct operation after use.... but only if no voltage is detected (which in this part there should be no voltage)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Once again thanks to Scarfo for this

Brian williamson

Thanks for the info.

Brian

The_Pom_From_Aus

Darren,
you can go to EPIC website & down load a sample exam for the LEA test its a sod of a job the so called instructors wont help you one bit mate.

the only good thing about the sample exam is that its almost identical to the real thing.

Arthur

The_Pom_From_Aus

Paul,
if you need a copy of step by step instructions for the SWP PM me mate ive done one for most of the Tafe's in Victoria its step by step & well over the top but its correct,

Arthur

paulf

thanks Arthur but I'm ok,
I've already done them

roblet

Hi Arthur

Did my LET online assessment and failed because the TAFE i went to in Melbourne for a refresher did not cover the tricky questions and were not willing to help further after finishing the course EG: transformer impedence and power factor one's. I have opted for the paper test this time round but struggling with few questions are you able to help or do you know someone who can help me online, straight to my email address.

Cheers

Rob

roblet

Hi Paul,

Bit desperate, can you please read my request to Arthur and see if there is anything you can do to help me out mate.

Thanks Rob

old.sparkles

Hi Rob,

We can all see the request you made, and if anyone has an answer for you they would post it. I tried googling the LET online assessment without result, so not sure of the type of question you need help on. What are you struggling on?

roblet

I need to calculate the prospective fault current at the MSB for the below installation:
Supply Transformer 450kVA,230/400V,prospective fault current of Transformer 16kA.Distribution cable 70mm XLPE 4 core copper cable route length 35 metres.Consumer mains 25mm2 V75 multicore sheathed cable copper cable route length 30 metres.
- To find impedence of the transformer, did Z=V/I (got the value wrong though as per online test).
- find impedence of distribution cable got Xc & R from tables x length of cable. Z=Sqrt(Xc)^2+(R)^2... this came up wrong as well.
- Found some issues with finding table numbers and column nos as well... I choose Table 30 column 10, it may be that this is incorrect.
- Impedence of consumer mains = ?
- Table No. & Column No. = ?
- Finally prospective fault current at MSB (I think adding the Z together which I could not find and going I=230/Z I think ??
Can anyone please help got a test early next week.....thanking you in advance

roblet

A 230V single phase load has a pf of 0.72 lagging and produces a load of 8kW. I need to calculate the size of the capacitor in kVAR to correct the pf to 0.95 lagging ?
Found this a bit difficult too. Can anyone please help ?

Deyan

How about Dr Google

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/chpt_11/3.html