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Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

Old Oct 18th 2008, 11:25 pm
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Default Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

I got this from VETASSESS on there web site, however i have made some changes to there explanation, so "Normal People" can fully understand the process.

(Here goes People).

This Disconnection & Reconnect Process may seem over the Top but that’s the way the people doing it all seem to like it done.
If you DON’T do it step by step the powers that be shall “FAIL” You.

Disconnection Process
Personnel to be notified in immediate area that you are to commence disconnection and Interruption to supply for the Appliance.

Will the removal of protective devices (Fuses, Circuit Breakers) affect essential services?
(Fire equipment & Lifts).
Test voltage tester at known `LIVE’ source for correct operation before use (Essential). (There shall be a 230V power point close by for your testing)

Ensure the frame of the equipment is not `LIVE’ by testing between frame/chassis And the known earth. (There shall be a power point close by).

Test your voltage tester at known `LIVE’ source for correct operation after use. (Again power point close to appliance).

Record operational details of appliance. KW & Voltage.
Record direction of rotation (DOR) of motor (where applicable)
Complete details on danger tags. E.g. Name, date, fault, etc
Affix danger tags to isolation points. E.g. appliance, isolating switch, switchboard, etc. Determine location of appropriate protective device.

“Never” leave exposed LIVE terminals/conductors at switchboard or appliance.
(Once again) Test voltage tester at known `LIVE’ source for correct operation before use.

Before touching appliance conductors, test for LIVE!
Test between - all conductors & known earth.
This test also includes testing for LIVE between the protective earthing conductor & the known earth.

Test Voltage Tester for correct operation on known LIVE source after using it.
Isolate protective device by applying lock-dog & lock or inserting ‘dummy’ fuse wedge in Fuse base. (You can also use a padlock for security for locking of) To stop others re-energizing the circuit.

Terminate conductors in approved manner Active 1st (Live) 2nd Neutral, 3rd Earth cables and enclose in junction box. Cable ends must be fully insulated.

Affix Danger Tag to terminated conductors enclosed in junction box.
Ensure terminated conductors are protected against mechanical damage.
Clean up work area & notify personnel.

Reconnection Process
Notify personnel of return to work site
Ensure the appliance to be reconnected is of the same operational ratings. E.g. KW, Amperes, voltage, etc.(DO NOT Touch the appliance)
Test for LIVE at the Appliance from a good known source of power.

Test Insulation Resistance & Continuity tester on both Meg Ohm (500V) and Ohm scale for correct operation. (Ensure your Testers are fully in Calibration) (they should have a label on stating the Test Date & Expiry Date).

Carry out the insulation resistance test of the appliance.
Test between all active & neutral conductors to the earth contact of the appliance. Note) CablesContaining sheathed heating elements
Not less than 0.01 Meg _Ohm
All other cable testing must achieve a minimum reading of 1Meg_Ohm.

Before touching final sub-circuit conductors, test for LIVE!
Test between - all conductors & the known earth.
This test also includes testing for LIVE between the protective earthing conductor & the effective earth.

The final sub-circuit conductors must also be tested for LIVE by testing between all Conductors.This includes the protective earthing conductor.
Test Voltage Tester for correct operation on known LIVE source after using it.

Reconnect final sub-circuit wiring to appliance terminals.
Carry out continuity test on final sub-circuit protective earthing conductor from effective Earth to frame of appliance.
(This test should be carried out after the circuit conductors have been connected to the equipment terminals and before the power has been restored).

Notify personnel of restoration of power.
Do not leave exposed LIVE terminals/conductors at switchboard or appliance.
Remove lock, lock-dog and switch on circuit breaker or insert correct fuse wedge to Restore power.
Check appliance for correct operation. DOR. (Direction of Rotation)
Clean up work area & notify personnel.

Please Note: Testing the voltage tester for correct operation after use is critical when the person testing the appliance is going to touch the conductors/components on the belief they are de-energised.


Does all this seem like a load of "Bollocks" but thats how its got to be done or its Good Night Vienna

Best of luck to you all i hope this is of some use to people

Regards

Arthur

The_Pom_From_Aus
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Old Oct 19th 2008, 6:06 pm
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Default Re: Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

Originally Posted by The_Pom_From_Aus View Post
I got this from VETASSESS on there web site, however i have made some changes to there explanation, so "Normal People" can fully understand the process.

(Here goes People).

This Disconnection & Reconnect Process may seem over the Top but that’s the way the people doing it all seem to like it done.
If you DON’T do it step by step the powers that be shall “FAIL” You.

Disconnection Process
Personnel to be notified in immediate area that you are to commence disconnection and Interruption to supply for the Appliance.

Will the removal of protective devices (Fuses, Circuit Breakers) affect essential services?
(Fire equipment & Lifts).
Test voltage tester at known `LIVE’ source for correct operation before use (Essential). (There shall be a 230V power point close by for your testing)

Ensure the frame of the equipment is not `LIVE’ by testing between frame/chassis And the known earth. (There shall be a power point close by).

Test your voltage tester at known `LIVE’ source for correct operation after use. (Again power point close to appliance).

Record operational details of appliance. KW & Voltage.
Record direction of rotation (DOR) of motor (where applicable)
Complete details on danger tags. E.g. Name, date, fault, etc
Affix danger tags to isolation points. E.g. appliance, isolating switch, switchboard, etc. Determine location of appropriate protective device.

“Never” leave exposed LIVE terminals/conductors at switchboard or appliance.
(Once again) Test voltage tester at known `LIVE’ source for correct operation before use.

Before touching appliance conductors, test for LIVE!
Test between - all conductors & known earth.
This test also includes testing for LIVE between the protective earthing conductor & the known earth.

Test Voltage Tester for correct operation on known LIVE source after using it.
Isolate protective device by applying lock-dog & lock or inserting ‘dummy’ fuse wedge in Fuse base. (You can also use a padlock for security for locking of) To stop others re-energizing the circuit.

Terminate conductors in approved manner Active 1st (Live) 2nd Neutral, 3rd Earth cables and enclose in junction box. Cable ends must be fully insulated.

Affix Danger Tag to terminated conductors enclosed in junction box.
Ensure terminated conductors are protected against mechanical damage.
Clean up work area & notify personnel.

Reconnection Process
Notify personnel of return to work site
Ensure the appliance to be reconnected is of the same operational ratings. E.g. KW, Amperes, voltage, etc.(DO NOT Touch the appliance)
Test for LIVE at the Appliance from a good known source of power.

Test Insulation Resistance & Continuity tester on both Meg Ohm (500V) and Ohm scale for correct operation. (Ensure your Testers are fully in Calibration) (they should have a label on stating the Test Date & Expiry Date).

Carry out the insulation resistance test of the appliance.
Test between all active & neutral conductors to the earth contact of the appliance. Note) CablesContaining sheathed heating elements
Not less than 0.01 Meg _Ohm
All other cable testing must achieve a minimum reading of 1Meg_Ohm.

Before touching final sub-circuit conductors, test for LIVE!
Test between - all conductors & the known earth.
This test also includes testing for LIVE between the protective earthing conductor & the effective earth.

The final sub-circuit conductors must also be tested for LIVE by testing between all Conductors.This includes the protective earthing conductor.
Test Voltage Tester for correct operation on known LIVE source after using it.

Reconnect final sub-circuit wiring to appliance terminals.
Carry out continuity test on final sub-circuit protective earthing conductor from effective Earth to frame of appliance.
(This test should be carried out after the circuit conductors have been connected to the equipment terminals and before the power has been restored).

Notify personnel of restoration of power.
Do not leave exposed LIVE terminals/conductors at switchboard or appliance.
Remove lock, lock-dog and switch on circuit breaker or insert correct fuse wedge to Restore power.
Check appliance for correct operation. DOR. (Direction of Rotation)
Clean up work area & notify personnel.

Please Note: Testing the voltage tester for correct operation after use is critical when the person testing the appliance is going to touch the conductors/components on the belief they are de-energised.


Does all this seem like a load of "Bollocks" but thats how its got to be done or its Good Night Vienna

Best of luck to you all i hope this is of some use to people

Regards

Arthur

The_Pom_From_Aus
hi there the pom from aus, catchy name
does that mean that we have to test the live conductors while they are still live? i would imagine if we did, we would have to isolate it before we removed any covers , then re energized it to test for live,i'm just abit confused at what time we have to turn it off.

it's in this bit....
Affix danger tags to isolation points. E.g. appliance, isolating switch, switchboard, etc. Determine location of appropriate protective device.

“Never” leave exposed LIVE terminals/conductors at switchboard or appliance.
(Once again) Test voltage tester at known `LIVE’ source for correct operation before use.

Before touching appliance conductors, test for LIVE!
Test between - all conductors & known earth.
This test also includes testing for LIVE between the protective earthing conductor & the known earth.

Test Voltage Tester for correct operation on known LIVE source after using it.
Isolate protective device by applying lock-dog & lock or inserting ‘dummy’ fuse wedge in Fuse base. (You can also use a padlock for security for locking of) To stop others re-energizing the circuit.


thanks in advance

ian
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Old Oct 19th 2008, 7:56 pm
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Default Re: Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

Not sure about this one, I think it means you should test your meter/tester with a proving unit before and after testing whatever it is your testing....... too much testing methinks
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Old Oct 19th 2008, 10:03 pm
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Default Re: Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

ianandclaire;

i can assure you now mate, you will NOT be working on any 230V or 415V equipment, they actually use a PLC that shows 230V in reality the voltage will be 12V or 24V but as i say displays 230V.

Your in a situation where you think its 230V so all precautions must be adhered to. follow the script i have put on here, i know its over the top but they will fail people at the drop of a hat, they consider this test to be of the highest order it must be done correct. there have been lives lost in Australia due to people cutting corners.
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Old Oct 23rd 2008, 10:25 pm
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Default Re: Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

Hi TPFA,
I cant get my head around why they would need to simulate 230V.
From your explanation and my current working practices I would assume that when testing for a disconnection you would actually be proving that the equipment was "Not Live" before working on it, i.e test your meter with a proving unit, test the equipment (after isolation) to be "Not Live" then test your meter again with the proving unit.

This ensures that at no time you should actually be testing equipment for being "LIVE" what you are actually doing is proving "Not Live"
Does this make sense or am I missing something

Cheers


Originally Posted by The_Pom_From_Aus View Post
ianandclaire;

i can assure you now mate, you will NOT be working on any 230V or 415V equipment, they actually use a PLC that shows 230V in reality the voltage will be 12V or 24V but as i say displays 230V.

Your in a situation where you think its 230V so all precautions must be adhered to. follow the script i have put on here, i know its over the top but they will fail people at the drop of a hat, they consider this test to be of the highest order it must be done correct. there have been lives lost in Australia due to people cutting corners.
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Old Oct 24th 2008, 8:56 am
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Default Re: Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

Originally Posted by Glasgow View Post
Hi TPFA,
I cant get my head around why they would need to simulate 230V.
From your explanation and my current working practices I would assume that when testing for a disconnection you would actually be proving that the equipment was "Not Live" before working on it, i.e test your meter with a proving unit, test the equipment (after isolation) to be "Not Live" then test your meter again with the proving unit.

This ensures that at no time you should actually be testing equipment for being "LIVE" what you are actually doing is proving "Not Live"
Does this make sense or am I missing something

Cheers

hi again guys,

sorry i'm still not sure at what piont we actually turn the power off??


like you say, just go over the top and prove and prove again.

cheers

ian
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Old Oct 24th 2008, 6:07 pm
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Default Re: Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

Before you touch anything isolate the circuit and lock it off. They provide a socket [known power source to prove your probes] which is hooked up to a 12v supply and on a different circuit. Davy.
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Old Oct 24th 2008, 8:24 pm
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Default Re: Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

Glasgow;

do you honestly think they are going to let you play with 230V. Noway at all, for all they know you may have NO electrical background at all. accidents happen & they cover there backs from every angle
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Old Oct 26th 2008, 6:02 pm
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Default Re: Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

Hi TPFA,
No I dont honestly think they would let you mess about with 230v, that is my whole point, to disconnect you should never have your meter on anything LIVE, what you are actually doing is proving "NOT LIVE" to quote a line in your original post:-

"Test your voltage tester at known `LIVE’ source for correct operation after use. (Again power point close to appliance)"
I have never heard of anyone proving something "NOT LIVE" then in order to test the voltage tester is working ok you test it at a known LIVE source? kinda defeats the purpose.

1. Isolate & Lockoff the cicircuit.
2. Prove your voltage tester/meter with a proving unit.
3. Test the appliance is "NOT LIVE"
4. Prove your voltage tester/meter with a proving unit.

By using this method you will be nowhere near any LIVE source, simulated or otherwise, as you say accidents happen, this whole process is to ensure that at no time are you exposed to 230V.





Originally Posted by The_Pom_From_Aus View Post
Glasgow;

do you honestly think they are going to let you play with 230V. Noway at all, for all they know you may have NO electrical background at all. accidents happen & they cover there backs from every angle
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Old Oct 27th 2008, 7:41 pm
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Default Re: Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

Originally Posted by The_Pom_From_Aus View Post
Glasgow;

do you honestly think they are going to let you play with 230V. Noway at all, for all they know you may have NO electrical background at all. accidents happen & they cover there backs from every angle
VOLTS DONT KILL, AMPS DO.
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Old Oct 27th 2008, 9:06 pm
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Default Re: Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

I have an Amp for my guitar and it hasn't killed anyone
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Old Oct 28th 2008, 2:55 am
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Default Re: Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

Originally Posted by jasonlec View Post
VOLTS DONT KILL, AMPS DO.
Yes and no Jason i think ?


Only i was led to belive that it is not the load current; it is the current through one's body.
Higher voltage means more body current which means more risk of death and more risk of burns and more risk of falling into something sharp or hard like your mates head!

but again it is not one single item that kills, it is a combination of four items:
- Amount of current
- Time current passes through body
- Path current passes through body
- Frequency (hz) of circuit


Just my 2c's worth but i will stand corrected if i am out on this slightly??


Regards

Dougie
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Old Oct 28th 2008, 5:12 pm
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Default Re: Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

Originally Posted by DOUGIE AN LOUISE View Post
Yes and no Jason i think ?


Only i was led to belive that it is not the load current; it is the current through one's body.
Higher voltage means more body current which means more risk of death and more risk of burns and more risk of falling into something sharp or hard like your mates head!

but again it is not one single item that kills, it is a combination of four items:
- Amount of current
- Time current passes through body
- Path current passes through body
- Frequency (hz) of circuit


Just my 2c's worth but i will stand corrected if i am out on this slightly??


Regards

Dougie
A dose of 50ma at 230 volts mullers you a lot more than 50ma at 12 volts!! You never see a "DANGER HIGH CURRENT" sign do you!

Anyone doing their practical on thursday at willsden, London???
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Old Oct 28th 2008, 5:42 pm
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Default Re: Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

Originally Posted by jonsparx View Post

Anyone doing their practical on thursday at willsden, London???

are you Jon?
hope they dont ask you anything like,
Whats more dangerous voltage or current? and explain your answer!

I think the reason for the "DANGER HIGH VOLTAGE" signs is that allot more non-electrically educated folk have more of a fear for VOLTAGE! than the word CURRENT and do not fully understand the laws and science behind Amps/current.

Anyway like i said i will stand to be fully corrected and offer a full and frank post of apology for misleading anyone.

Have i mis-lead anyone with my theroy?

Is it wrong or right?

Let me know


Dougie
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Old Oct 28th 2008, 6:36 pm
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Default Re: Disconnect/Reconnect of an Electrical Appliance

Originally Posted by DOUGIE AN LOUISE View Post
are you Jon?
hope they dont ask you anything like,
Whats more dangerous voltage or current? and explain your answer!

I think the reason for the "DANGER HIGH VOLTAGE" signs is that allot more non-electrically educated folk have more of a fear for VOLTAGE! than the word CURRENT and do not fully understand the laws and science behind Amps/current.

Anyway like i said i will stand to be fully corrected and offer a full and frank post of apology for misleading anyone.

Have i mis-lead anyone with my theroy?

Is it wrong or right?

Let me know


Dougie
Haha, and whatever my answer, I shall definatley be using the word mullerd as much as possible!!

Your post is spot on, it is only the current drawn by your own body resistance that mullers you!!

Hows the TRA app going???
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