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-   -   UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ? (https://britishexpats.com/forum/canada-56/uk-canadian-electric-plug-query-help-642227/)

trouncer Nov 26th 2009 7:00 am

UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 
Sorry if this sounds a bit ignorant. Can someone answer this query ?

I have a UK PC, screen and other peripherals which should hopefully work in Canada as the PC guy in the UK say's there should be a switch on the back of the PC to convert from 240v to 110v.

However, would it be possible to plug all my electrical devices (all mains cables with 3 pin UK plug ends) into a UK 4-way mains block (as I did in the UK), then plug that into the Canadian mains socket using a mains plug converter (an adapter which changes a UK 3 pin plug into a 2 pin Canadian mains plug ?

Will the PC and other devices work ok ?

Thanks in anticipation to all answers.

Bibendum Nov 26th 2009 7:47 am

Re: UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 

Originally Posted by trouncer (Post 8126364)
Sorry if this sounds a bit ignorant. Can someone answer this query ?

I have a UK PC, screen and other peripherals which should hopefully work in Canada as the PC guy in the UK say's there should be a switch on the back of the PC to convert from 240v to 110v.

However, would it be possible to plug all my electrical devices (all mains cables with 3 pin UK plug ends) into a UK 4-way mains block (as I did in the UK), then plug that into the Canadian mains socket using a mains plug converter (an adapter which changes a UK 3 pin plug into a 2 pin Canadian mains plug ?

Will the PC and other devices work ok ?

Thanks in anticipation to all answers.

if all your devices will work on 110v, then you could take a 4way trailing socket, chop the end off and fit a nema plug.

Or you could plug the trailing socket into a converter and then into the wall.

I would go for option 1 personally as I have found the travel connectors to have a maximum rating of about 3A, at 110V you will pull (roughly speaking) double the amps you would on 230v.

Hope that helps.

bib

canadian_critic Nov 26th 2009 11:52 am

Re: UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 

Originally Posted by Bibendum (Post 8126433)
at 110V you will pull (roughly speaking) double the amps you would on 230v.

According to my father who was an electrical engineer, this is also why you get the disconcerting sparks when plugging appliances in. I put it down to dodgy foreigner electrics myself, but open to debate on the matter...

JonboyE Nov 26th 2009 3:17 pm

Re: UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 

Originally Posted by trouncer (Post 8126364)
However, would it be possible to plug all my electrical devices (all mains cables with 3 pin UK plug ends) into a UK 4-way mains block (as I did in the UK), then plug that into the Canadian mains socket using a mains plug converter (an adapter which changes a UK 3 pin plug into a 2 pin Canadian mains plug ?

Should be a 3 pin on the Canadian side.

Aviator Nov 26th 2009 3:34 pm

Re: UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 
Before chopping wires and putting plugs on and using power bars, you may want to look into the load being used and also electrical code. Aside from the safety factor it may affect your insurance if there is a fire. Anything that is not CSA approved or wired in accordance with local code there are increased risks.

The_Bax Nov 26th 2009 3:35 pm

Re: UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 

Originally Posted by trouncer (Post 8126364)
Sorry if this sounds a bit ignorant. Can someone answer this query ?

I have a UK PC, screen and other peripherals which should hopefully work in Canada as the PC guy in the UK say's there should be a switch on the back of the PC to convert from 240v to 110v.

However, would it be possible to plug all my electrical devices (all mains cables with 3 pin UK plug ends) into a UK 4-way mains block (as I did in the UK), then plug that into the Canadian mains socket using a mains plug converter (an adapter which changes a UK 3 pin plug into a 2 pin Canadian mains plug ?

Will the PC and other devices work ok ?

Thanks in anticipation to all answers.

Two points here - the voltage and the plug configuration.

If you can convert your devices to run on 110V (and most kit with a transformer will - but CHECK) then you can use them on any lead/plug configuration you choose as long as it is rated correctly (see other answers about current draw and adapters).
If your kit is not set to run on 110V then it will not matter how you plug it in - it will not work. You may even damage it by trying.

If this is going to be a long term solution you may want to consider that a UK trailing 4- or 6-gang will not be approved for use in Canada and this can invalidate your insurance in the event of an electrical fire. A better (and fairly cheap) option would be to replace all removable leads with Canadian ones and change the plugs on any others then use a Canadian trailing gang.

If in doubt - get a qualified electrician to read your data plate/manual and advise you FOR EACH ITEM.

Good luck.:)

iaink Nov 26th 2009 3:58 pm

Re: UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 
It seems extremely unlikely than any computing hardware uses enough watts to challenge the standard 15 or 20A circuit protection here?

If the items are either dual voltage, or have a manual switch to 110V, then the OPs suggestion will work, except that a three prong grounded convertor would be advisable, as long as you are sure that they are all OK at 110V, but as others have said there are likely insurance complications, and its probably easier just to replace the power cords with local ones. Even if they are not OK at 110, all that will happen is they wont work, its not going to blow up as can happen plugging a 110 device into a 230V outlet.

If they end in the standard international 3 prong inlet thingy like this.. that most monitors and PCs have...then why not just replace the chords?


http://www.inetdaemon.com/img/hardwa...s/DPP_0010.JPG

http://www.8starshop.com/images/prod.../wnb985162.jpg

trouncer Nov 27th 2009 12:47 am

Re: UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 
Hey thanks for all the feedback guys.:D

I have a feeling it's just my PC CPU that has an option to change to 110v, and that the flat screen that came with it is just a normal 240v type device.

I also have a few things like guitar amp and effects that I think only work on 240v (they got packed away and shipped over due to the rush of the removal men). I really miss playing the old axe and stuff and buying new stuff is so expensive.

Therefore I'm tempted to go with the option of feeding all the 240v UK stuff into 4 or 6 gang UK mains extention blocks, then plugging that block into a 240v to 110v transformer. Does this sound feasible guys (taking into account the insurance and CSA approval).

Also, where can I buy a 240v to 110v mains convertor in Vancouver ? and are they expensive ? :confused:

Thanks for any further replies and advice/suggestions guys. :thumbsup:

Novocastrian Nov 27th 2009 1:31 am

Re: UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 

Originally Posted by canadian_critic (Post 8126873)
According to my father who was an electrical engineer, this is also why you get the disconcerting sparks when plugging appliances in. I put it down to dodgy foreigner electrics myself, but open to debate on the matter...

Which disconcerting sparks?

With the greatest respect to your father, most electrical engineers would recognize that sparks, if they were to occur, are a function of voltages, not current. The current when you plug something in (assuming the device is turned off at the time of plugging in), is zero, irrespective of the mains voltage.

jericho Nov 27th 2009 1:49 am

Re: UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 

Originally Posted by The Aviator (Post 8127222)
Before chopping wires and putting plugs on and using power bars, you may want to look into the load being used and also electrical code. Aside from the safety factor it may affect your insurance if there is a fire. Anything that is not CSA approved or wired in accordance with local code there are increased risks.

Have to say, in over 10 years of working in insurance (just over a year in Canada) I've NEVER seen a policy wording exclude claims arising from goods not being CSA approved. Granted, I work in commercial insurance, but having checked my home insurance policy, it's not mentioned there either.

lmartin999 Nov 27th 2009 3:44 am

Re: UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 

Originally Posted by trouncer (Post 8128110)
Also, where can I buy a 240v to 110v mains convertor in Vancouver ? and are they expensive ? :confused:

http://www.shaverspot.com/converters.html

Aviator Nov 27th 2009 4:00 am

Re: UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 

Originally Posted by jericho (Post 8128206)
Have to say, in over 10 years of working in insurance (just over a year in Canada) I've NEVER seen a policy wording exclude claims arising from goods not being CSA approved. Granted, I work in commercial insurance, but having checked my home insurance policy, it's not mentioned there either.

Have you experienced any claims and payouts involving non CSA products? WCB often have a differnet perspective on safety and certification. Come to that they generally have a different perspective on most things.

lancashirebird Nov 27th 2009 4:09 am

Re: UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 

Originally Posted by trouncer (Post 8128110)
Hey thanks for all the feedback guys.:D

I have a feeling it's just my PC CPU that has an option to change to 110v, and that the flat screen that came with it is just a normal 240v type device.

I also have a few things like guitar amp and effects that I think only work on 240v (they got packed away and shipped over due to the rush of the removal men). I really miss playing the old axe and stuff and buying new stuff is so expensive.

Therefore I'm tempted to go with the option of feeding all the 240v UK stuff into 4 or 6 gang UK mains extention blocks, then plugging that block into a 240v to 110v transformer. Does this sound feasible guys (taking into account the insurance and CSA approval).

Also, where can I buy a 240v to 110v mains convertor in Vancouver ? and are they expensive ? :confused:

Thanks for any further replies and advice/suggestions guys. :thumbsup:

Just spoke to my OH who is an electrician and he advised yes it will work................BUT if it starts a fire you are done for :unsure:
He knows that as they are installing uk machines at the moment and have been advised if one goes up, tough

Like anything if its not really worth it, sell it or leave it
Anything that is not csa approved electrically could end up costing you more in the long run

;)

canadian_critic Nov 27th 2009 5:05 am

Re: UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 

Originally Posted by Novocastrian (Post 8128181)
Which disconcerting sparks?

With the greatest respect to your father, most electrical engineers would recognize that sparks, if they were to occur, are a function of voltages, not current. The current when you plug something in (assuming the device is turned off at the time of plugging in), is zero, irrespective of the mains voltage.

Well here's the difference. Outlets don't have switches so appliances like irons spark like buggery as they're always on. The higher the load the greater the spark. Can't believe you've not noticed this. It's very well known, but if you're not looking for it I guess it's easy to miss.

Aviator Nov 27th 2009 5:37 am

Re: UK & Canadian electric plug query. Help ?
 

Originally Posted by canadian_critic (Post 8128450)
Well here's the difference. Outlets don't have switches so appliances like irons spark like buggery as they're always on. The higher the load the greater the spark. Can't believe you've not noticed this. It's very well known, but if you're not looking for it I guess it's easy to miss.

An appliance does not spark unless it is defective, it would be the contact between the plug connectors and the receptacle. The spark occurs when connecting and disconnecting. A load only occurs when an appliance is switched on, not when standing idle, connected or not. If the appliance is not switched on (not the outlet) no current is flowing.


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