Buzzy--Bee

It's great on a warm sunny day to shower with the doors open - its like showering outside up in the gum trees!

BB

carolinephillips

Our loo is less than a metre wide- 89cm to be exact, the door opens into it and misses the toilet by about 1cm. It has no basin, and if you are over a size 12 you knock the loo roll holder off when you try to exit. It needs to have the wall between it and the bathroom demolished, and a new stud wall put in to make the bathroom into a useable shape, a window needs blocking up as the window in the loo is tiny and not on the same level as the bathroom one so it looks odd. All the plumbing needs moving, as the vanity is currently backing onto where the wall that is coming down is, so consequently tthe bath also has to move. All the drains will then have to be moved too. The bathroom window needs replacing with obscure glass, the light/heater is about the only thing that might stay in place. And we have to have some electrical work too.

I'm not including the cost of recarpeting the hall, or getting new blinds.

herrchook

By the sounds of it, you probably do need to combine both those rooms. Our "powder room" is a little bigger, but not much. Big enough though to make it worthwhile leaving it be and just replacing the tiles, WC and vanity. OH spoke to a contractor about the cost of knocking the wall down and we were told it often nearly doubles the cost

carolinephillips

booo to that. Maybe the neighbour's son will give us a hand. Trouble is he's just got a new girlfriend so spends all his spare time with her.

lesleys

My advice - get tiles as big as possible so there is less grout to keep clean.

Anyone got any advice on how to reseal the join between the bottom of the shower frame and the tiles underneath please.

cresta57

Cut the old silicon out with a scraper [Stanley blade type one] wipe spotless with metho & a green scourer, allow to dry, reseal with sanitary grade silicon.
To get the silicon crisp & sharp with no messy smears use a lolly stick soaked in dish detergent & spray the silicon you've put in with the same detergent diluted with water. You can buy a proper silicon release spray for $25 but for a little job like that it's not worth it.

carolinephillips

Was defo going to get the biggest tiles ever- I hate cleaning mouldy grout. They have all in one shower panels, but atm they are way too costly.

I always use my finger to get a smooth grout line. Good job I don't grout too often!

Amazulu

We did our shower with this:
http://akril.com.au/index.html

Not cheap but looks great, and no grout to keep clean.

herrchook

We looked at that for our kitchen splashbacks. We opted for tinted glass but the Akril was lovely. Does it show water marks much when it's dry?

Amazulu

Not really, especially as ours is pure white. It's very easy to clean, we keep a window sqeegie in the bathroom for this.

Rachel69

We have just finished renovating our house, including 3 bathrooms.
We got some of our stuff from these:

www.renovationboys.com.au


Good luck!!!

herrchook

We were in there at the weekend. They had a big sale on

cresta57

I read this last week & was far to busy to give you a long the long winded response, however, this being a work free weekend:
I'm not a fan of the "Wetseal" system at all. It's proven to be a right pain up here in QLD both for myself & many other tilers. Up until a couple of years ago there wasn't an adhesive manufacturer that would guarantee their product over the fiberglass [excepting Ardexwho make it]. This was for a few reasons. Firstly the very product is an absorber of water [see problems with GRP boats & osmosis] Secondly the fact it gives off gasses that had been deemed to break down the property of the adhesive. Lastly when applied it's rigid & sets solid so if there's a run in the application it's an angle grinder job to flatten the bumps out.
That then leads to more issues as to overcome the natural porosity of the product & to lessen the risk of chemical breakdown Wetseal [cough Ardex] developed a polymer that has to be painted over the finished product [topcoat 300]. Grinding removes this topcoat voiding the 7 year warranty. Not grinding leaves the tiler little option but to pack out the tiles with excessive glue or grind the back of tile away to nothing. The installer used to leave a sticker on the floor informing the tiler of this.
The system is a franchise leaving Wetseal a "Get out of jail free card" as they can then blame their franchisee for any problems. The guy in my immediate area has a tendency to leave large messy corners that require every corner tile to be mitered 45° That puts an abnormal amount of extra labour costs onto the job making me look extremely expensive for a simple bathroom tile. He also uses the same sized angle in doorways no matter the thickness of tile chosen. This leads to either the unglazed edge of the tile showing in the doorway or an unsightly hump at the door where the tile had to be lifted to meet the top of the angle. On top of that Wetseal claim their technicians [franchisees] are meticulously trained yet one bloke on the coast managed to seal a floor that hadn't had the sheeting nailed off & was just in-situ awaiting fitment, the fact the off-cuts & debris were still under the sheets should have been a clue, but no, he sealed it with a 20 mm hump of off-cuts under the centre sheet You obviously don't need to be bright to be a franchisee just have the dosh to buy one
If it were down to me to make an informed choice I'd go for a polyurethane waterproofing membrane such as Davco's K10 plus. It's the one I use myself for all my jobs. I have to give a 7 year guarantee as well

Rossi

I also used the above method when I was in the bathroom fitting game, plus Cresta's been tiling longer than Wetseal have been making liquid fibreglass

Just about to rip out & reno the family bathroom and this time am going for 18SqMtrs of 600 x 300 floor but there was some nice 900 x 1200 in the same colour, BUT I thought it would look more like a paving slabbed floor if I did that ( and they were $25 Each)

Rossi

TIP OF THE DAY
If you have money to spend,
RainX which is a windscreen treatment works well on shower screens/ acrylic panels
Or if you're a tightwad - like me

Spray WD40 on a soft cloth and wipe over when it's dry & clean, end of water marks after use