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Just returned from Sydney

Just returned from Sydney

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Old Sep 14th 2005, 9:40 am
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Default Just returned from Sydney

No, not for good... I just went to Sydney for 2 weeks to validate my visa and have a bit of a holiday and do some reccy-ing. I stayed with my brother for a few days in Manly, and then my sister in Queenscliff. Thanks to both of them and their partners for putting up with me.

I was only there for two weeks, so only a limited amount of time to get a view on things, however I had a number of discussions with friends and family who were all expats.

On the tourist side I did the following:
Taronga Zoo
Syndey Aquarium
Botanical Gardens
Coogee-Bondi walk
Manly-Spit walk
Wildlife Park
Watched Australia beat Solomon Islands 7-0 at Football
Various drives through places
Took a random ferry ride which ended up in Rydalmere (or some name similar to that near Parramatta
Palm Beach

On the non-touristy side I did the following:
Got my Fax File Number
Signed Up for Medicare
Opened a bank account with St George (much lower fees than Commonwealth)
Research into Jobs/Pensions/Accomodation
Started working on making contacts

Have to say that considering it was late winter (equivalent of early March) the weather was great.. pretty much always in the 20's during the day with one day having a high of 26. 1.5 days of rain in two weeks which was the first rain they have had in quite a while. The days however in the summer are shorter than the summer days in the UK, and conversely longer in the winter than the UK winter days. This is because I was closer to the equator than I live in the UK. The moon is also rotated 90 degrees clockwise so looks like it is a banana lying on a table when it is a crescent.

I'd highly recommend the Manly->Spit walk, we saw lizards and a snake and some great Australian countryside and coves. I was less impressed with the Coggee->Bondi walk as you remain close to civilisation all the way (the highlight was finding some crabs to feed the bread we had taken along with us). Bondi (Beach), at least in the winter is a bit of a dump, a bit of a let down.. Quite a bit of graffitti and a bit scaggy, however I am sure int he summer it is more vibrant.

Manly, I very much liked, the beach was good, the area was clean, some good bars/restaurants etc and I can easily see the appeal it has, although undoubtedly it will be very busy in the summer! I am however a bit of a snob, as my friends keep telling me.

In Oz they do great Ice-Coffees.. One of my favourite drinks. I was somewhat suprised to find that not only was almost all the wine for sale only Australian (perhaps not too much of a suprise) but also if I took some brands that I drink in the UK.. e.g. Wolfblass Yellow Label etc then it wasn't that much cheaper than if I bought it in Tesco (unless I checked the wrong year???).. So that came as a surprise, although that's not to say you can't get cheap wine, you can get 4litres for under $10 etc.

The people I met in the stores where all very friendly, talkative and genuinely came across as interested. Had a number of longish conversations with various store/shop people about weather, immigration, Oz etc etc. I would say though that they are also more likely to tell it as it is, so if they work in services and they can't help you, they'll say so and it may seem quite rude or blunt. However that is better than being given the expectation that they'll sort it when they ahve no intention of doing so.

I generally found shopping for clothes/food to be cheaper than the UK, sometimes very much so. While some of the clothing may be slightly lower quality, I found a number of stores in Sydney that sold high quality clothes (obviously more expensive). The two main supermakers (Coles/Woolworths) are fairly cheap, although don't expect (and I hope you don't want!) to find the massive range of processed frozen meals. If you like fish and Asian food then you'll like Sydney. I would say that the presentation of the supermarkets (e.g. the actual insides of the buildings, and the food) is not as good as say Tesco and reminds me of the older ASDA stores (nothing personal against ASDA!). There are also quite a lot of fruit growers shops where you can get veg/fruit cheap.. I was eating Water Melon most mornings for breakfast.

One thing to note with costs, is that I am obviously still looking at things with UK currency in mind. If I am lucky I will have a similar salary in Sydney as I have in the UK though and the higher rate tax bands in Oz are rapidly increasing to be well over $100k now.

I did buy quite a few pairs of HoleProof socks.. Will let you know how good they are, however so far no holes!!!

Botanical Garden was great, there is just something exotic for a POM to be able to walk around and see Lorakeets, Ibis, Bats etc squalking and walking around in the wild. I hope it is something I don't end up taking for granted.

One of the big pluses for me about Sydney, and one of the reasons I've fallen in love with it is all due to it's site on an amazing natural harbour, is difficult to explain, but it is this location (in my opinion) that makes Sydney into what it is. Particularly around the centre the harbour skyline is not ugly, and sipping drinks at the Opera Bar or near Darling Harbour is a great way to spend an evening. Taking the Manly ferry into work every day is just a great way to start/end a day.

Sydney and Oz won't be for everyone, however from what I have seen, researched etc so far both Oz and Sydney look like a good and suitable new home for me. I will miss some things from Europe (e.g. Roman/Greek/Medieval etc history and architecture) however I will also be much closer to Asia which is an area I have always wanted to explore. The fact that I like Asian cuisine (and Asian women) probably helps as well!

In my exploration of some of the suburbs towards Parammatta, these are not suburbs I would personally want to live in, however if you are coming over with family/kids then you'll likely have more restrictions due to needing larger accomodation. My main reasons for not wanting to live in these suburbs is not because they are not nice (the ones I went through seemed pleasant and peaceful) it's more that they are too peaceful and remote from the beaches (compared to Manly/Queenscliff etc where the beach is only a few minutes walk). Once againa personal perspective and I know there are also some pretty crappy suburbs out there.

With regards transport, I ride a motorbike (as well as a car), and Sydney/Oz is not so good for bikers from the perspective of twisty, fun country roads like one finds in the Cotswolds. However that is a small sacrifice and I'll be able to ride much more of the year in Oz. The public transport is significantly better (in Sydney) than what I have experienced in the UK. The trains are cool as well (double decker ones and also with seats that flip over. I would guess though that late at night they may not be the most fun on a Friday/Saturday night.

Can't comment too much about the cost of the public transport, mostly I was doing a day tripper which for $15 allows me unlimited use of the normal Ferries, Trains and Buses for the core Sydney area. For $40 this can be made into a 7 day weekly ticket, which is good value, and for $1600 an annual one, which may sound a lot however isn't really if you are using the public transport a lot. Within Sydney there is not too much need for a car apart from shopping and getting furniture (you could always hire one), although once again if you have children or live further away you may want transport for getting out and about etc.

The schools seem to be fun there, saw quite a few school lessons out in the parks and on the beach, they also seem to be more competitive than the UK is now. My understanding of school sports days in the UK is that you no longer compete against other students, which in my opinion is a bit crap as it doesn't give you that much incentive to try harder! This lunacy doesn't seem to have reached Oz yet.

There banks will undoubtedly frustrate you, with the limited number of cash point withdrawals, fees, limited EFTPOS transaction size etc. However the "4 pillars" will be bring removed within the next couple of years which is what is protecting the Oz banks (or so I have been told). Once this happens the banking sector will become much more competitive and things are likely to change. There is little use of direct debits in Oz, the normal way to pay bills is through BPAY which means you need to remember to pay the bills yourself each month.

[edit]Should also add that you should look at who you are intending to fly with, if you are likely to be flying once a year or two (or more) then the airline frequent flyer schemes can work out very good. I fly with Emirates (not the cheapest however I like them) and a holiday to Dubai, plus my trip to Oz has given me enough miles to become a silver member (free use of business lounge etc, hence free food and nice environment), also the miles I have are valid for 3 years and can be redeemed for upgrades or free tickets. The miles from the two trips so far have given me enough for a free return trip to Dubai. So something to consider...

Also with pensions, *groan*, consider maximising your UK pension before you go. Your UK pension contributions are subject to tax relief, i.e. if you put £5000 of you income into your pension then the government will add an additional 22% or 40% depending at what rate tax payer you are. With the pension rules changing in April 06, you will be able to pay into your pension an amount equal to your annual salary (at the moment it is limited to around 17.5% depending on age). When you get to Oz your pension contributions are taxed.. So it can make sense to boost up your pension here prior to transferring it (if you choose to do so) and say thank you to the UK government :-)
[/edit]

As with everything in life, it is all subjective. All I will add is that don't go to oz thinking it is the UK with warmer weather.. It isn't.. It is a different country with a different culture and society. Sometimes this will frustrate you. You may bemoan their banking system, the lack of good british pubs etc.. If those things are ithat important to you then you will find it difficult to integrate, and that is the key thing, if you are emigrating to Oz, irrespective of where, then you need to be willing to integrate with the Oz society and culture. You will also need to make sacrifices, maybe not watching the UK footie live anymore as it means being up at 1am is a simple example that springs to mind.

So I am planning to rent an apartment in or near Manly, hopefully work somewhere near Circular Quay (plenty of opportunities in the sector I work) and take the ferry in each day.

enjoy, and I hope my post is informative

regards

Alex

Last edited by Alex Hall; Sep 14th 2005 at 9:47 am.
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Old Sep 14th 2005, 9:53 am
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Default Re: Just returned from Sydney

Brilliant post Alex! Not planning on going to Sydney, but interesting to hear your perspective. Must say I will miss not being able to pay things direct debit ....never mind, will just leave hubby in charge of all the bills/financial stuff!

Good luck when you get out for good, sounds like you will have a great time!
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Old Sep 14th 2005, 9:54 am
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Default Re: Just returned from Sydney

Originally Posted by Alex Hall
I did buy quite a few pairs of HoleProof socks.. Will let you know how good they are, however so far no holes!!!
Just remember to take them off before you pull on the thongs.

Other than that, a comprehensive and accurate post. Made with the sunnies rather than the rose tints on.
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Old Sep 14th 2005, 9:58 am
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Default Re: Just returned from Sydney

Originally Posted by Mrs JFW
Brilliant post Alex! Not planning on going to Sydney, but interesting to hear your perspective. Must say I will miss not being able to pay things direct debit ....never mind, will just leave hubby in charge of all the bills/financial stuff!
Direct debit IS available in most cases, it's just that BPay is so easy (no need for paperwork) most folk prefer to use it. You can use BPay like direct debit for regular payments of the same amount anyway.

And more companies are sending bills electronically under BPay view.
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Old Sep 14th 2005, 10:12 am
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Default Re: Just returned from Sydney

Originally Posted by Banksia
Direct debit IS available in most cases, it's just that BPay is so easy (no need for paperwork) most folk prefer to use it. You can use BPay like direct debit for regular payments of the same amount anyway.

And more companies are sending bills electronically under BPay view.
Apologies if my post suggested that DD is not available, it is, it is just not used anywhere near as much as it is in the UK. i.e. I would guess that DD is used maybe 5% of time time in Oz by people compared to the UK.

Alex
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Old Sep 14th 2005, 10:15 am
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Default Re: Just returned from Sydney

Originally Posted by Banksia
Direct debit IS available in most cases, it's just that BPay is so easy (no need for paperwork) most folk prefer to use it. You can use BPay like direct debit for regular payments of the same amount anyway.

And more companies are sending bills electronically under BPay view.


I'm all for anything thats easy as far as finances are concerned. I'm cr@p with money!
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Old Sep 14th 2005, 10:17 am
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Default Re: Just returned from Sydney

Good post..........there are some bad points (house buying) in Sydney but thats life
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Old Sep 14th 2005, 10:22 am
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Smile Re: Just returned from Sydney

1.5 days of rain in two weeks which was the first rain they have had in quite a while.


LOL!! This has made me laugh over the past 10 months ! One of the things that amazes me is how the city can have such different weather from out here in Suburbia ! We really haven't had rain in weeks and would love 1.5 days of it ! It's generally 3-5 degrees hotter out of the city and never seems to rain on the same days !
Great post Alex for the single male moving to Oz !
I wish we had done all these things before we had kids and before we actually moved here.
Do you think it'll be easier for you to settle becuase you have family here ?
All the best to you and I hope you enjoy it all when you get here.
Take care,
Tass.
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Old Sep 14th 2005, 10:27 am
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Default Re: Just returned from Sydney

Originally Posted by Alex Hall
No, not for good... I just went to Sydney for 2 weeks to validate my visa and have a bit of a holiday and do some reccy-ing. I stayed with my brother for a few days in Manly, and then my sister in Queenscliff. Thanks to both of them and their partners for putting up with me.

I was only there for two weeks, so only a limited amount of time to get a view on things, however I had a number of discussions with friends and family who were all expats.

On the tourist side I did the following:
Taronga Zoo
Syndey Aquarium
Botanical Gardens
Coogee-Bondi walk
Manly-Spit walk
Wildlife Park
Watched Australia beat Solomon Islands 7-0 at Football
Various drives through places
Took a random ferry ride which ended up in Rydalmere (or some name similar to that near Parramatta
Palm Beach

On the non-touristy side I did the following:
Got my Fax File Number
Signed Up for Medicare
Opened a bank account with St George (much lower fees than Commonwealth)
Research into Jobs/Pensions/Accomodation
Started working on making contacts

Have to say that considering it was late winter (equivalent of early March) the weather was great.. pretty much always in the 20's during the day with one day having a high of 26. 1.5 days of rain in two weeks which was the first rain they have had in quite a while. The days however in the summer are shorter than the summer days in the UK, and conversely longer in the winter than the UK winter days. This is because I was closer to the equator than I live in the UK. The moon is also rotated 90 degrees clockwise so looks like it is a banana lying on a table when it is a crescent.

I'd highly recommend the Manly->Spit walk, we saw lizards and a snake and some great Australian countryside and coves. I was less impressed with the Coggee->Bondi walk as you remain close to civilisation all the way (the highlight was finding some crabs to feed the bread we had taken along with us). Bondi (Beach), at least in the winter is a bit of a dump, a bit of a let down.. Quite a bit of graffitti and a bit scaggy, however I am sure int he summer it is more vibrant.

Manly, I very much liked, the beach was good, the area was clean, some good bars/restaurants etc and I can easily see the appeal it has, although undoubtedly it will be very busy in the summer! I am however a bit of a snob, as my friends keep telling me.

In Oz they do great Ice-Coffees.. One of my favourite drinks. I was somewhat suprised to find that not only was almost all the wine for sale only Australian (perhaps not too much of a suprise) but also if I took some brands that I drink in the UK.. e.g. Wolfblass Yellow Label etc then it wasn't that much cheaper than if I bought it in Tesco (unless I checked the wrong year???).. So that came as a surprise, although that's not to say you can't get cheap wine, you can get 4litres for under $10 etc.

The people I met in the stores where all very friendly, talkative and genuinely came across as interested. Had a number of longish conversations with various store/shop people about weather, immigration, Oz etc etc. I would say though that they are also more likely to tell it as it is, so if they work in services and they can't help you, they'll say so and it may seem quite rude or blunt. However that is better than being given the expectation that they'll sort it when they ahve no intention of doing so.

I generally found shopping for clothes/food to be cheaper than the UK, sometimes very much so. While some of the clothing may be slightly lower quality, I found a number of stores in Sydney that sold high quality clothes (obviously more expensive). The two main supermakers (Coles/Woolworths) are fairly cheap, although don't expect (and I hope you don't want!) to find the massive range of processed frozen meals. If you like fish and Asian food then you'll like Sydney. I would say that the presentation of the supermarkets (e.g. the actual insides of the buildings, and the food) is not as good as say Tesco and reminds me of the older ASDA stores (nothing personal against ASDA!). There are also quite a lot of fruit growers shops where you can get veg/fruit cheap.. I was eating Water Melon most mornings for breakfast.

One thing to note with costs, is that I am obviously still looking at things with UK currency in mind. If I am lucky I will have a similar salary in Sydney as I have in the UK though and the higher rate tax bands in Oz are rapidly increasing to be well over $100k now.

I did buy quite a few pairs of HoleProof socks.. Will let you know how good they are, however so far no holes!!!

Botanical Garden was great, there is just something exotic for a POM to be able to walk around and see Lorakeets, Ibis, Bats etc squalking and walking around in the wild. I hope it is something I don't end up taking for granted.

One of the big pluses for me about Sydney, and one of the reasons I've fallen in love with it is all due to it's site on an amazing natural harbour, is difficult to explain, but it is this location (in my opinion) that makes Sydney into what it is. Particularly around the centre the harbour skyline is not ugly, and sipping drinks at the Opera Bar or near Darling Harbour is a great way to spend an evening. Taking the Manly ferry into work every day is just a great way to start/end a day.

Sydney and Oz won't be for everyone, however from what I have seen, researched etc so far both Oz and Sydney look like a good and suitable new home for me. I will miss some things from Europe (e.g. Roman/Greek/Medieval etc history and architecture) however I will also be much closer to Asia which is an area I have always wanted to explore. The fact that I like Asian cuisine (and Asian women) probably helps as well!

In my exploration of some of the suburbs towards Parammatta, these are not suburbs I would personally want to live in, however if you are coming over with family/kids then you'll likely have more restrictions due to needing larger accomodation. My main reasons for not wanting to live in these suburbs is not because they are not nice (the ones I went through seemed pleasant and peaceful) it's more that they are too peaceful and remote from the beaches (compared to Manly/Queenscliff etc where the beach is only a few minutes walk). Once againa personal perspective and I know there are also some pretty crappy suburbs out there.

With regards transport, I ride a motorbike (as well as a car), and Sydney/Oz is not so good for bikers from the perspective of twisty, fun country roads like one finds in the Cotswolds. However that is a small sacrifice and I'll be able to ride much more of the year in Oz. The public transport is significantly better (in Sydney) than what I have experienced in the UK. The trains are cool as well (double decker ones and also with seats that flip over. I would guess though that late at night they may not be the most fun on a Friday/Saturday night.

Can't comment too much about the cost of the public transport, mostly I was doing a day tripper which for $15 allows me unlimited use of the normal Ferries, Trains and Buses for the core Sydney area. For $40 this can be made into a 7 day weekly ticket, which is good value, and for $1600 an annual one, which may sound a lot however isn't really if you are using the public transport a lot. Within Sydney there is not too much need for a car apart from shopping and getting furniture (you could always hire one), although once again if you have children or live further away you may want transport for getting out and about etc.

The schools seem to be fun there, saw quite a few school lessons out in the parks and on the beach, they also seem to be more competitive than the UK is now. My understanding of school sports days in the UK is that you no longer compete against other students, which in my opinion is a bit crap as it doesn't give you that much incentive to try harder! This lunacy doesn't seem to have reached Oz yet.

There banks will undoubtedly frustrate you, with the limited number of cash point withdrawals, fees, limited EFTPOS transaction size etc. However the "4 pillars" will be bring removed within the next couple of years which is what is protecting the Oz banks (or so I have been told). Once this happens the banking sector will become much more competitive and things are likely to change. There is little use of direct debits in Oz, the normal way to pay bills is through BPAY which means you need to remember to pay the bills yourself each month.

[edit]Should also add that you should look at who you are intending to fly with, if you are likely to be flying once a year or two (or more) then the airline frequent flyer schemes can work out very good. I fly with Emirates (not the cheapest however I like them) and a holiday to Dubai, plus my trip to Oz has given me enough miles to become a silver member (free use of business lounge etc, hence free food and nice environment), also the miles I have are valid for 3 years and can be redeemed for upgrades or free tickets. The miles from the two trips so far have given me enough for a free return trip to Dubai. So something to consider...

Also with pensions, *groan*, consider maximising your UK pension before you go. Your UK pension contributions are subject to tax relief, i.e. if you put £5000 of you income into your pension then the government will add an additional 22% or 40% depending at what rate tax payer you are. With the pension rules changing in April 06, you will be able to pay into your pension an amount equal to your annual salary (at the moment it is limited to around 17.5% depending on age). When you get to Oz your pension contributions are taxed.. So it can make sense to boost up your pension here prior to transferring it (if you choose to do so) and say thank you to the UK government :-)
[/edit]

As with everything in life, it is all subjective. All I will add is that don't go to oz thinking it is the UK with warmer weather.. It isn't.. It is a different country with a different culture and society. Sometimes this will frustrate you. You may bemoan their banking system, the lack of good british pubs etc.. If those things are ithat important to you then you will find it difficult to integrate, and that is the key thing, if you are emigrating to Oz, irrespective of where, then you need to be willing to integrate with the Oz society and culture. You will also need to make sacrifices, maybe not watching the UK footie live anymore as it means being up at 1am is a simple example that springs to mind.

So I am planning to rent an apartment in or near Manly, hopefully work somewhere near Circular Quay (plenty of opportunities in the sector I work) and take the ferry in each day.

enjoy, and I hope my post is informative

regards

Alex
having lived in sydney for 2.5 years now, i think your post is well balanced given the time you were here....
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Old Sep 14th 2005, 10:31 am
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Default Re: Just returned from Sydney

Yeah agree with the other's very good and informative post...even though we dont plan to go to Sidney, it gives a very god insight into OZ...thanks for sharing Alex
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Old Sep 14th 2005, 10:39 am
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Default Re: Just returned from Sydney

Originally Posted by Tass
1.5 days of rain in two weeks which was the first rain they have had in quite a while.


LOL!! This has made me laugh over the past 10 months ! One of the things that amazes me is how the city can have such different weather from out here in Suburbia ! We really haven't had rain in weeks and would love 1.5 days of it ! It's generally 3-5 degrees hotter out of the city and never seems to rain on the same days !
Great post Alex for the single male moving to Oz !
I wish we had done all these things before we had kids and before we actually moved here.
Do you think it'll be easier for you to settle becuase you have family here ?
All the best to you and I hope you enjoy it all when you get here.
Take care,
Tass.
Having family (or close friends) already in Oz will definitely be a benefit, no doubt on that. For example having somewhere to stay for the first few weeks while you are looking for accommodation so as you don't have to rush and do a 12 month rental contract on somewhere without having the chance to look around. Also, (in theory!) they know a lot of things that you don't, e.g. what to buy where, TFN, medicare etc etc.. the list is long.

We are a fairly independent family, however even so, having brothers, sisters, parents around is also going to help with respect to settling and having a friendly face to meet up with. I've already decided to join various clubs e.g. pilates/yoga, cookery, sailing as these are a great way to meet new people, and in my opinion one of the most important ways to make the Oz move a success is to build up a new social circle as quickly as possible.

:-)

Alex
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Old Sep 14th 2005, 10:42 am
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Default Re: Just returned from Sydney

Agreed Alex that was a cracking post - good detail into life in sydney.

Where would you recomend as nice place for rental apartments over there?

Whats the average $ now for 1/2 bedroom apartment in the eastern areas now?

Agreed with Bondi, it is a bit of a let down, but when you actually live there you feel more at home with it & take it for what it is. Only prob is that at weekends it gets really hectic there. After work in the week I used to enjoy going to the beach or a quick surf when not many were around.

Good stuff though all said.
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Old Sep 14th 2005, 10:59 am
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Default Re: Just returned from Sydney

Originally Posted by rapitts
Good post..........there are some bad points (house buying) in Sydney but thats life
Very true, however when you consider that Sydney is the most important city (or is that Canberra or Melbourne! *grin*) in Oz then it comes as no surprise that real estate costs are going to be fairly high, although a recent article I read stated that property in Sydney was overvalued (I can't remember if it was by 10% or 25% but somewhere around that amount).

If you want to buy a prime real estate house with multiple bedrooms on the northern beaches and live the dream then you'll need quite a bit of money! If you are happy to live in the western suburbs or lower yur expectations a but then you can find more sensibly priced houses. As with everything in life it is finding the balance to suit you and your needs. If you have kids though it will be more expensive to find a place to suit your needs. However don't expect property to be as cheap as you may expect. Make good use of www.realestate.com.au etc to get a realistic view of what you can get for your money.

I'd advise anyone moving to Oz to rent for the first 6-12 months irrespective of where they are living, or how much cash they are bringing over as buying in the wrong area can really make the move to Oz a nightmare. In nothing else it will help to build a credit history and the banks will be more willing to lend.

There will be good deals around, it's just finding them! Not being in a chain, and having a reasonable deposit (if you have been lucky in the UK) are great positives that you should try to use to your advantage as a first time buyer in Oz, also read up on the various rules for each state as there are some good incentives with lower stamp duty at certain price thresholds (different per state).

:-)

Alex
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Old Sep 14th 2005, 11:10 am
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Default Re: Just returned from Sydney

great post Alex, made all the more intresting as Sydney is our destination, arriving sometime between Feb & May.
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Old Sep 14th 2005, 11:30 am
  #15  
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Default Re: Just returned from Sydney

Originally Posted by walaj
great post Alex, made all the more intresting as Sydney is our destination, arriving sometime between Feb & May.
Looks like you live fairly close to me, not sure if there are any Berks meets happening, if there are I am more than happy to come along and share any knowledge I've picked up.

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