We spent about six months there, off and on, a few years back (Pamplona is famous for its hospitals). Most of the city is 'modern' with a beautiful casco viejo worth getting to know. Outside of the famous fiestas in early July, there are few foreigners. People are friendly, although 'reserved' (at least if you are used to Andalucía). It's worth taking a car to see surrounding area - beautiful castles and loads of history. Check the tourist office.