electricbaby

Hi there
Matt here I am wanting information about working as an electrician in australia, can anyone help, do we have to retrain or sit any exams, what are the pay rates like,

Wendy

I think it varies from state to state. Still haven't got our heads round it yet!

Best bet is looking at the TRA site. You can find the link from www.immi.gov.au

john_w

another link http://www.energysafety.wa.gov.au/en...lt.html.Passed the TRA bit ut looks like I'll have to register with a RTO over there to convert UK qualifications to Aus. ones then also sit the electrical exam to get a license

steve`o

information from earlier posters re electricians
ive kept this as i`m applying for licence myself
i hope this is of use

regards steve

License info on be

Had a few requests to help out all you sparks with decades of experience who will then have to satisfy the powers that be that you are good enough to work alongside the roughest,slowest sparks outside of Scotland (brace yerself for the flak BB).

Right.
1.
Get an up to date reference before you leave,so don't p*** off your current employer (you'll see why in a mo).

2.
Go to the this page
www.energysafety.wa.gov.au

and find the licensing bit.You can download an application form.You need the Electrical mechanic one if you're an installation spark.

3.
Go to the office at
20 Southport Street
West Leederville tel : 9422 5282

where you'll have to hand over the application form and submit copies of all your references you sent to TRA all those months ago,as well as your most recent reference(see,told you ).Hand over $30 and your application will be scrutinised at the next board meeting.These are held every 2 weeks,but are sometimes cancelled,so you may not hear anything for over a month.

4.
Once the old farts decide "hang on a minute,this guy's got more experience than any Ozzy spark ",they'll write to you to say your application has been approved,and you have 2 options.

i.Take a written and practical exam (details of which I shall post later)
ii.Take a Licensing course.Only enrol for this if you feel that you can't pass the bits above.This course can take up to 6 months,but some have been told you can cram it into 9 weeks,if there's enough interest to fill the spaces.However,there is no exam,so if you're a bit of a flapper,this may be the best route.I've heard that sometimes a couple of guys visit the U.K and run this course,but it's a bit pricey.Perhaps others have heard of this.

I've had to add an after thought.You can apply to work under somebody elses licence for up to a year.Think this costs $30,but I spoke to others who said that employers tend to avoid in-experience,unlicenced Pommies straight off the boat.However,I met 2 who had this licence at the practical exam,so if you're desperate to work immediately,this could help.

5.
Should you decide to do the exams (which I strongly recommend) you can phone the TAFE (college) at Balga,and book the written exam straight away.They are just adjudicators there,so you can take it within a few days.The cost of this is $30,and you'll also be asked to stump up $110 for the practical one,but you can only take it once the written has been passed.






Right,you've been in touch with the college and have a date for your theory exam.

6.
Whilst at the Energy licensing office (see step 3-sorry forgot about it at the time) you would have purchased a copy of the wiring regulations - AS/NZS 3000:2000.I was encouraged not to bother by the guy there and to borrow one,but I strongly recommend you do-as I will point out further down.It'll cost you $73.90,but I'm sure you can claim back something on your tax return.
Now study it particularly the subjects I'll point out later.

7.
The theory exam is in 2 parts,and you have 3 hours to complete it.You have to take in your regs book,calculator and pen.There's a few blank pages in the regs (see ),so you can put in any notes and formulas you need to beforehand.I had no supervision in the room,had a mobile phone with me,so could have contacted anyone,and was left alone for the duration.I got the feeling,that they don't care too much,as long as you pays yer money.
Part 1 consists of 40 multiple choice questions,some of which are common sense,some are in the regs book,and some are the knid of stuff you learnt as a teenager and have never used and forgotten since.
Part 2 is 10 multiple choice questions,which the answers to can all be found in the regs.You have to answer and state which reg and on which page you found it.
You need to get 60% or more in both parts to pass.

8.
O.K.Things you should swot up on/copy into yer book :
Insulation resistance values (see regs)
MEN is multiple earth neutral-PME to us proper sparks.
Cable terminology: T.P.I is triple pole insulated.Cores are double insulated,and earth is green/yellow.-M.I.M.S is mineral insulated metal sheathed (pyro)-TPS is twin and earth-Building Wire is singles.
G.P.O is a general purpose outlet (socket )and uses 2.5 radials with 16 A current protection.
Formulas : ohms law ; p= V x I ; Power factor = P over V x I ; Volt drop = mV/A/M x current x length over 1000 (you won't use this till the practical part though,so don't worry ).Hope I'm not teaching to suck eggs.Also look up line current formulas for star/delta loads,and copy them into the book.
Maximum Volt drop values (see regs)
Maximum permissable earth resistance (see regs)
How to add resistors in parallell

Example questions or just the answers ;

See all above and :
ESR is earth sheath return,and is combined neutral earth-use MIMS for this.
Domestic underground cabling uses TPS in heavy duty ORANGE pvc conduit.
If an A.C contactor chatters,it'll probably be a faulty shading ring on the core.
To remove aluminium oxide from Aluminium cable,dip it in hydrochloric acid (bakers fluid).
Sodium vapour lamps give off a yellow light.
Capacitors are used to gain economical power.
Capacitance is meaqsured in micro farads.
Earth electrodes are placed in wet areas near to the building.
Ladder ratio 4:1
The licensed electrical contractor is responsible for the installation.
Halogen lamps can't be handled.
A minimum of 6 cables are required at a star delta motor (excluding earths).
A minimum of 3 cables are required from an isolator to a starter on a star delta motor.
AQ squirrel cage motor needs star/delta to develop torque.
3 cables are needed at a batten holder.


There you go,as I said, a lot of this is common sense,and 60 % is in the regs book,just look it up.if I remember any more examples,I'll put em on.Not sure if the questions are changed often either.

BB- Jeez,I hate long posts.

And another thing.....
When you ring up to set your written exam date,book the practical too.Although you can't take it until you've passed the theory,assume that you will.They only have 5 spaces a month for the practical,and they're soon filled.I had to wait 8 weeks as the guy was on holiday,but they then dragged irt forward 2 weeks(wow-thanks).
Congratulations,you've passed the theory exams.But you had to ring up after a couple of days,although they don't encourage it,as they take forever to let you know by post.
Now onto the practical.
Take your Regs book,pen and calculator.They supply all tools and meters,but you can take your own along if you prefer.They also give you a book to show any written work undertaken.It's not hard hat/boots,but try to look the part,I'm sure it influences the examiner.
There are 6 tasks and you have 4 hours to complete.This is a bit trickier than the written,as you are tight for time.
I'll put the tasks in the order I did them,as you have a choice as long as everyone doesn't choose the same ones first.

1.
Make off 14" of pyro OR terminate a 10A 240V industrial socket.

Right.The task should be to make off the pyro,BUT,due to expense and lack of materials in WA,they give the much easier task of making off the socket.Just in case they change back,take a small pot of vasoline,as I've been told the pyro tools supplied are a bugger to start off.
The cable supplied is 2.5mm 3 core heavy duty flex,with stuffing glands.Nothing tricky here,but make sure you choose the 16 amp breaker,not the 10 or 20.Remember,you're protecting the cable,not the rating of the outlet.
I suggest you choose this task first,as it's quick and easy,and calms you down.If it's pyro,maybe swap it to 2nd.

2.
Test 2 irons.

Theres about 8 irons,so I can only comment on the 2 given to me.Check for cord damage,missing screws,cracks,dials not turning correctly,missing labels on the dials etc etc.Calculate the resistance using Ohms law and P over V x I,then measure it to make sure the reading is near enough.Some irons ,I'm told,have a resistor put in to give false readings.
Test insulation resistance.IMPORTANT.I got a reading of 0.05 M ohm on one,BUT according to Reg 6.3.3.3.3 (a) page 165,the minimum value for a sheathed heating element or appliance is 0.01 M ohm.So it complies-just.
You don't have to dismantle the plug or iron.
Make sure you write everything you do (including the regs ),and the irons details in the sheets provided.

3.
Wire a 2 way and intermediate lighting circuit,and double socket outlet.

You are given a safety tag at the beginning,so make sure you tie it to the incoming mains (a flex on a plug) before starting,or you'll fail.
Link from the main switch with 4mm (honest ,crazy but it's true) singles to the RCD,and from the incoming of the rcd to the 10 A MCB.Then link from the outgoing side of the RCD to the 16 A MCB.Don't link from the neutral bar to the earth (MEN link),or it'll trip when energised.
The socket is wired via the RCD using 2.5 T&E ,but the earth comes pre-sleeved.
You'll have to bell out the switch terminals,as nothing is labelled,and use the spare terminal in the batten holder for any common connections.
When the examiner livens the board,don't worry if the intermediate switch is wrong,he'll let you do it again until it's correct (Don't forget the safety tag).

4.
Volt drop

On a bench is a heating element with an ammeter to show current drawn.
Measure the voltage at incoming and load,and using the regs (i.e volt drop not to excede 5% of incoming voltage) determine whether this complies.
Chances are it won't,or this would be a right quick 'un.
Tell the geezer,and he'll then give you a copy of tables (which I can't remember exactly what they're called-doesn't matter though ).You'll also have a list telling you what factors apply,and in what order to use them,and the pages they can be found.So i'ts not as daunting as it all seems.
You then have to show on your sheet which is the smallest c.s.a of cable which would comply.Luckily,it should be the next one up (1.5mm),so you only have to do the problem once.
Don't forget the formula which you put in your regs
VD=mV/A/m x current x length over 1000

5.
Connect a direct on-line motor with 2 remote start/stop buttons.

I came a bit unstuck on this one,but I still passed,so do yer best !
Tag on the supply!
It's all plug in leads here,so that bit's easy.Phase colours are RED/WHITE/BLUE (very patriotic).You have to connect through a contactor to the motor.The coil is supplied via the start/stop buttons,overload protection terminals and an auxilary coil.I believe the terminals for the overload will be 95 and 96.
I did o.k at first,I had one start button wired incorrectly.But when I tried to rectify it,I made it worse,and ended up walking away hopefully returning to it .I run out of time in the end,so should have just left it as it was.Still,I passed,so I must have done enough.Of course on-site,you'd not be under pressure,so I'm sure they take that into consideration when marking it.
Least said about this one the better.

6.

Test a domestic installation.

I left this one till last,as you could spend ages here and come a cropper for time on the other tasks.
Safety Tag on !
There's no live testing on this one.Again,it's all plug in leads at the destination,but the CU is hard wired.Write everything in full,even if it seems obvious or petty.
Faults are introduced by the examiner throwing switches,so you may find different results to me.
Insulation resistance gave a fault on the lighting circuit.There was 2 RCD's-1 for power 1 for lighting.
Youre given plug in outlets to make testing of fittings easier.
I also found reverse polarity on a socket,incorrect wiring of strappers on the intermediate lighting circuit,and the Insulation resistance fault was between a switch and fitting in one of the bedrooms.
If you leave this till last,you can just plod on until they call time.


So there it is.Feel free to add to this when you've done it.
Best of luck to you all,it is nerve wracking,but once you do it you wonder what all the fuss was about.
They tell you not to call them for your results,but I rang after 3 days saying I had a job offer subject to passing,and wondered when I'd hear anything.She put me on hold for ages,then told me my result ! Glad I did,as it took nearly to weeks to get it in writing.
Finally,send off,or apply in person for your registration card.A bargain at $250 !!!!!
They make it there and then if you call in.

BB-spark extraordinaire (just don't let me near any star/delta motors).
________________________________________
The wiring regs I believe are actually the same throughout Australia and NZ.

These are the various regulations.

AS/NZS 3000:2000 (Amended) : Electrical installations (known as the Australian/New Zealand Wiring Rules)
as/nzs 3760:2001 in service testing & inspection of electrical equipment
as/nzs 3100:2002 approval & test specification - general requirements
as/nzs 3017:2001 Electrical instalations - testing & inspection guidlines
as/nzs 3008:1998 Electrical instalations - selection of cables

They can be found at http://www.standards.com.au/catalogue/script/Search.asp

Wendy

Cheers for that, have been searching for it for weeks

john_w

[QUOTE=steve`o]information from earlier posters re electricians
ive kept this as i`m applying for licence myself
i hope this is of use

QUOTE]
Thanks Steve

john_w

Pyro!!!.....must blow dust from tool box and get some practice in

steve`o

yeah i`ll have oil the wheel on me pyro stripper mate

JohnandMichelle

Oh Steve - I wish my husband was as organised as you. At the moment, my head is aching on a daily basis with the amount of paperwork I'm getting through. We're hoping to head off at the end of Feb. (The two girls seem to be hitting it off - at least they might have at least one friend each on the GC..!) Michelle

jimtracey

Steve,
What is the significance in the A Class or E Class etc. electricians that I see asked for in the job adverts. Is this dependent on your score in the exam, or is it different kinds of 'sparks'. Your help in this would be appreciated
Jim

steve`o

sorry mate havnt got a clue
can one of you aussies help on this one

thanks steve

Wendy

Here's a really handy link for you. Should explain all.

http://www.workplace.gov.au/NR/rdonl...tApril2005.pdf

jimtracey

Thanks for that, I think that's what I'm looking for, but it still doesn't mention Class 'A' or 'E' Licences.

electricbaby

what about if you work in the managerial side of the industry ? i am currently classed as a contracts manager so do the aussies recognize this skill or will i have to get my hands dirty again? .........pyro i thought we had seen the last of that nightmare stuff.......

The_Pom_From_Aus

Steve, thats some explanation my friend, in Victoria its very hard they seem to like that here you cannot move with out them watching every move.
the entire exam is different here and thats unfortunate but i do like the way you have set it all out and you have spent some time time doing so to help people, Ive been posting on here also to assist other who may have to go through all this crap

art