vectorwarrior

I've just registered in order to reply to this thread. Apologies in advance for the long post.

I agree almost entirely with the original post, although I disagree about the state of driving out here. I really don't think people drive that badly compared to other places and I totally appreciate the amount of lanes on the roads. Having said that, I am in the minority amoungst my friends on this issue... although they're all Canadians which may be a factor.

The weather here is brutal. Yes, it is a dry cold which is the only thing that makes it slightly bearable, but it is still brutal. And no, I'm not some sort of lightweight, I cycle to work every day so I know better than most how the weather is. It got down to below -50 this winter, although to be fair this winter has generally been very mild (mostly hovering around -5 to -10, which is actually not too bad).

I cannot connect with what people are saying about the arts 'scene' here. When we first moved here we went to every (and I mean EVERY) event that was going on. They're predominantly sad and depressing affairs with very poor turn out. The summer events are definitely better, but summer here lasts for about six weeks so it's hardly a life changing scenario. Any interesting or special events here (opera, live music, ballet, concerts, famous groups, etc) are rare one offs and are therefore very expensive and sell out pretty quickly. The live music scene here is an absolute joke. People seem to spend most of their time shopping, I'm not a big 'consumer' so it doesn't suit me. If you're into nightlife, especially clubs, then you'll be terribly disappointed. The underground scene here is pretty dead too. Don't believe the hype about Whyte Ave, it's incredibly overrated... although you'll not have much choice otherwise. Downtown, as discussed, is a huge disappointment and somewhat of a zombiefest after business hours, such a shame.

The people are lovely though in my experience and that definitely goes some way to improving things. It was one of the first things I noticed here and I stand by that opinion 2 years later. I also have found crime to be low, although the figures ARE high, but it tends to be drug/gang related and isolated to certain areas. I've seen very little trouble here and I've often walked home across town at 3-4am (it takes a long time) without incident. You'll such much more 'action' on a typical night out in the UK.

It's a car city. It's huge and decentralised. Those saying that it's 'just like other North American cities' are correct, however Edmonton is far worse than most. We have one of the lowest population densities for a city of our population. Also, there's not over a million people here, there's nearly a million in the whole metro area... which is an even huger area. Edmonton itself is more like 700,000 i believe, spread over a city the size of Toronto or Chicago. That's how low the density is. Sidewalks just.... stop, it's absolutely bizarre. Cycle paths are just the side of the road with a signpost next to them with a picture of a bike. Public transport is pretty horrendous, it's twice as fast for me to cycle most places than to use the bus. The LRT is getting better, but forget it if you're going west-side. Speaking of which, West Ed Mall is best avoided, it's an ugly collection of chain stores at best.

I don't see the big deal about the river valley. But yeah, it's the best thing we got I suppose. I've never heard of any crime there save for that phantom masterbater. I still don't understand why they dont develop it more, put some coffee shops up overlooking the (admittedly ugly) river, seems like a missed opportunity to me.

I'm glad that some people have found happiness here, that's encouraging. But I've never actually met anyone in person that loves it here, except people that were either born here or moved here from some rural Albertan town, where E-Town is considered 'the big city'. I work for a largish and very well respected company and we have SEVERE problems attracting talent here because of the 'Edmonton factor', we also suffer a lot from good people leaving simply because they cant stand it any longer. We were even forced to open another location in Montreal to alleviate this... and it worked. I have found it odd how various online forums are frequented by people who will defend Edmonton to the death, it just feels like we're talking about different places... but again, I'm very happy that you're comfortable here.

The majority of the Calgary hate comes from the hockey rivalry. Yeah, I've seen it and yeah, it's pretty funny but mostly harmless.

Agree with the comments about the architechture. It's very 70's communist style. I've heard theories about it being due to the large amount of Ukrainian immigration over the years (hence - Edmonchuck). Lots of grey, bland concrete slabs, very depressing. I was surprised at how living in an uninspiring place has effected me.

Restaurants are mostly chains, it's a real shame and everyone complains about it. There are some good indies but they are very few and seriously outnumbered.

Edmonton is NOT close to the rockies. It's a 3-4 hour drive to Jasper, I've done that a few times over a weekend there and back and it's doable but you're still spending a considerable amount of time in a car for a weekend. Aside from the Rockies there's really not much else around for hundreds and hundreds of kilometers in all directions. It's flat for as far as the eye can see. You get used to it.

Pluses then... traffic generally is shockingly good. There's a slight 'rush' hour, but it's nothing compared to anything you've seen in a major city. Lots of parks around the city, which I love, although they're mostly uniform bland, flat empty fields if that's an issue. The summer weather is nice, not hot enough for me but at least the humidy is low (your body DOES get used to the affects of low humidity that someone mentioned earlier). Houses are big (but not cheap). It's semi-arid here, not much rain or snow throughout the year, personally I like that. There's a few nice (if slow-paced) areas to live in, such as St Albert and Riverbend. Ice Skating on Hawralek is pretty fun Again, people are nice and crime is generally low. I think it's not a bad place to have a family.

Apologies if any of the above offends anyone. I'm incredibly thankful for my time here (mostly for the job, which has been awesome), it's just not 'for me' clearly. The above is purely my personal observations on my time here and the things that people around me say. I work with a diverse range of people, mostly canadians from outside of Edmonton, and that may taint my view somewhat, most of them are from Vancouver and wont shut up about how they miss it. Again, it's great to hear that some people have found happiness here.

Thanks

orfila

Just to say that the original post regarding Edmonton made for interesting reading and thanks for the genuine opinion on the city... and that is what is was.. an opinion..nothing more.

We spent a day in Edmonton (whilst awaiting collection of our pets from the airport) and found it to be quite pretty to look at what with the valley and the city being on a hill, I drove around the city (and found myself constantly driving out of it by accident!! purely my navigational error!). I can understand that some may see the architecture as being somewhat concrete.. sure it's not like central Bath, Edinburgh or York but it sure beats being in Sheffield or Bradford. The driving was fine I thought nothing like central London or Glasgow though! I found the drivers round Vancouver worse! Not even as bad as the likes of the lane drifting farmers in Saskatoon or Regina! I was only there for a day so can't comment much on safety but it felt pretty safe in comparison to Manchester!

Nonetheless hearing a 'warts and all' account is helpful as we were considering a move to Edmonton at some point so thanks for your honesty. As for the 'racism' everywhere has it.. no matter what country you're in. Sure there are folk here who complain about the Native population and it is true that alot of the violent crime seen in Alberta and neighbouring provinces like Saskatchewan are related to the Native population ( I work in this field) it is not a reason to slight the entire Native population for this. And yes there are high numbers of Asian immigrants who through no fault of their own have for the majority been successful in buisiness.... which brings with it racial resentment from the smaller minded individuals who live here ...it is not to say that all Albertans or Canadians are racist.

OK soap box over.... sorry to hear that some folk have had a rough time in Alberta, hope things get better one way or another for you.

bsmith

Wtf? Are you sure you went to Edmonton?

Photoplex

Just to clarify something. Calgary was chosen, by The Economist, as the 5th most liveable city in the world (after Vancouver, Melbourne, Vienna, and Toronto) for 2010.

It's a world class city, third only in Canada to Vancouver and Toronto. Edmonton doesn't even get a look in.

Almost Canadian

I live in Calgary and I think it's great but, if you believe it's a world class city, you can't have travelled much.

Photoplex

I've actually lived all over Europe, the Middle East, and Southeast Asia. My main point is that comparing Edmonton to Calgary is like comparing Slough to London.

Maybe you should send an email to The Economist?

rae

if i had my time over i would live in calgary, though i have to say it would be for the airport, proximity to the mountains and US border, slightly warmer with the winds, not much else. every time there are comparisons mentioned as per the survey above i wonder why it gets rated so highly, its simply a more white collar version of Edmonton, how it can be compared with places like vancouver and montreal is beyond me.

rae

don't know why you are being so arsey, its a common but perhaps mute point the edmonton/calgary thing, depending on the type of person you are will i think dictate your choice. no surprise to me the economist does not mention Edmonton, perhaps if a magazine like popular mechanic was asked it may be different.

Photoplex

I'm not being arsey - merely emphasising that the reports speak for themselves. And let's face it - The Economist is hardly a rag - we're not talking about The Daily Sport here.

Anyway, horses for courses. Personally (and hypothetically of course) I would rather live in a place that a publication such as the Economist recommends highly, than Popular Mechanics.

rae

and thats fair enough, and the point that the economist is not a rag is my point. i'm not saying edmonton is full of low life neanderthals, but it is a blue collar city, i don't think anyone would dispute that so i feel a magazine like the economist could understandably overlook it. so if you are the type in business or personal life that subscribe to this publication, i can see the appeal. all i am saying is i don't see such a world of difference as what seems to be intimated at times, its like edmonton is kandahar and calgary is new york. there simply is not that big a difference.

Photoplex

Ok, that actually made me laugh out loud

rae

well thats something. this edmonton calgary rivalry always cracks me up, why edmontonians can't admit calgary is nicer is beyond me, and why calgarians think their city is the dogs is also beyond me, i would take istanbul over both of them anyday of the week.

rae

i have just realised that the european city comes in after canada and aus, bloody hell what is the economist coming to!!!

Pammy

Because Calgary is not nicer than Edmontonthats why!

rae

like i say a lot comes down to taste, background and personal choice. but if you can put that aside, calgary is the nicer place. i admit calgary appears a little barren compared to the river valley, but the shopping district/central area and rocky mountain view easily make up for that. then you have the international airport links, its a pain having to constantly change when going to a lot of places when going from edmonton, and its more expensive.
i think another major factor not mentioned that much, is that edmonton seems more remote. whenever i am in calgary i feel closer to civilization and other cities. in edmonton i feel like i am on the edge of the wilderness, and thats because i am.