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One Year in Edmonton Alberta

One Year in Edmonton Alberta

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Old Aug 12th 2009, 10:59 pm
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Default One Year in Edmonton Alberta

Before I start, let me just say, this post will not go down well with Edmontonians - but it's not meant for them. I hope this thread will be read by people weighing up the pros and cons of the various Canadian cities. A recce is just a snapshot and warts-and-all, unbiased info (not just sugar-coated tourist rubbish) is hard to come by. Consequently, this piece may seem overly negative, but my intention here is not to anger or antagonize, but merely to redress the balance. Believe it or not I've gone easy, I've left out personal stuff that's happened, some of which would not make for comfortable reading on a forum such as this. (You can review crime stats etc. elsewhere)

So let's cut right to the chase, Edmonton is not the "world class" metropolis it's marketing people would have you believe. It's a blue collar city that rises and falls on the strength of it's economy - people relocate here from overseas and from other provinces for the work and for that alone. People looking for the whole "quality of life" thing, would be advised to seek it elsewhere. The city has a lamentable infrastructure, horrible architecture and doesn't show any sign of getting better any time soon.

The cities "downtown" area is a bit of a joke. It has none of the vibrancy or energy you would expect in a city this size. Very few pedestrianised areas or natural outdoor gathering places. There is also a very serious panhandling and aggressive begging problem, (which sometimes escalates into actual violence and recently death), although this is a problem not just restricted to the downtown area. Once out of the city centre Edmonton is your average mixture of generic condo blocks (flats), older "character" homes, strip-malls and the ubiquitous avenue after avenue of newly built McMansions. Property in Edmonton is relatively expensive by Canadian standards.

On the culture and entertainment front Edmonton is mediocre at best. There's stuff out there, but it's all pretty average and fairly generic, cinemas, clubs, galleries etc. Edmonton sells it's self as Canada's year round "Festival City", although most of these "festivals" are again pretty generic and mainly bunched together during the short Summer months. The better ones tend to be smaller and consequently sell out fast making tickets hard to come by. Eating out here is never a great experience, the restaurants are on the whole terrible - indifferent service and poor quality food.

Edmonton's "Crown Jewel" is it's "River Valley". The North Saskatchewan river valley effectively cuts Edmonton in two diagonally and provides some welcome greenery (during the summer) and a few miles of cycle trails. Unfortunately it also provides cover for an unofficial shanty town of tents and shacks housing many of the towns bums and vagrants during the Spring through to Autumn. Consequently, Edmontonians consider the river valley a no-go-area after dusk which is a shame.

Everyone mentions the driving, I confess, I do not drive. That said, I have witnessed more driving accidents and near misses in one year in Edmonton than in the rest of my 40+ years put together. No exaggeration. Yes, some of these were just winter prangs, but the majority were just caused by careless driving on ice-free roads. Crossing a busy intersection with one hand on the wheel while talking on your cell phone appears to be compulsory here. And man, do Edmontonians love the horn (insert puerile joke here).

The people of Edmonton are for the most part very nice. They are on the whole polite and welcoming - though I suspect being white has helped me out on that front. I'm pretty shocked at how quickly many (Caucasian) Edmontonians, regardless of age or background, can turn any discussion on the cause of Edmonton's woes in to an opportunity to be blatantly racist about either Natives Americas, Blacks or various "Asian" groups . (That said, these views may appeal to the "Daily Mail" type expat!) Canadians I've got to know from other parts of the country don't seem to fall back on these tired old clichés so often.
There also seems be a strange preoccupation bordering on an obsession with Calgary. Edmontonions generally seem to hate the place with a passion, whilst at the same time, desperately aspiring to be more like it. The fact that Calgary appears to be many Edmontonian's only yard-stick by which to judge it's own city gives some insight into the depth and breadth of the average Edmontonian's world view. Unfortunately, it doesn't help that Calgary is indeed a more appealing city in most respects, and at least has some character and sense of it's own identity.

Overall, after spending a year in Edmonton, my advice to anyone planning on making Canada their home would be to consider other cities before even looking at Edmonton. You don't get that whole "quality of life" thing here, far from it. I freely admit, we came here for the work and for that alone, and when the time is right we will be getting the hell out of here. I hope for the sake of the city and it's people the economy stays strong, Edmonton now isn't great, Edmonton during any kind of protracted slump doesn't bare thinking about.
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Old Aug 12th 2009, 11:02 pm
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Default Re: One Year in Edmonton Alberta

What Canadian city would you prefer to live in, given an alternative job offer?
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Old Aug 12th 2009, 11:06 pm
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Default Re: One Year in Edmonton Alberta

Originally Posted by bodgerx
What Canadian city would you prefer to live in, given an alternative job offer?
Not sure yet - still researching.
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Old Aug 12th 2009, 11:32 pm
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Default Re: One Year in Edmonton Alberta

Originally Posted by bsmith
Before I start, let me just say, this post will not go down well with Edmontonians - but it's not meant for them. I hope this thread will be read by people weighing up the pros and cons of the various Canadian cities. A recce is just a snapshot and warts-and-all, unbiased info (not just sugar-coated tourist rubbish) is hard to come by. Consequently, this piece may seem overly negative, but my intention here is not to anger or antagonize, but merely to redress the balance. Believe it or not I've gone easy, I've left out personal stuff that's happened, some of which would not make for comfortable reading on a forum such as this. (You can review crime stats etc. elsewhere)

So let's cut right to the chase, Edmonton is not the "world class" metropolis it's marketing people would have you believe. It's a blue collar city that rises and falls on the strength of it's economy - people relocate here from overseas and from other provinces for the work and for that alone. People looking for the whole "quality of life" thing, would be advised to seek it elsewhere. The city has a lamentable infrastructure, horrible architecture and doesn't show any sign of getting better any time soon.

The cities "downtown" area is a bit of a joke. It has none of the vibrancy or energy you would expect in a city this size. Very few pedestrianised areas or natural outdoor gathering places. There is also a very serious panhandling and aggressive begging problem, (which sometimes escalates into actual violence and recently death), although this is a problem not just restricted to the downtown area. Once out of the city centre Edmonton is your average mixture of generic condo blocks (flats), older "character" homes, strip-malls and the ubiquitous avenue after avenue of newly built McMansions. Property in Edmonton is relatively expensive by Canadian standards.

On the culture and entertainment front Edmonton is mediocre at best. There's stuff out there, but it's all pretty average and fairly generic, cinemas, clubs, galleries etc. Edmonton sells it's self as Canada's year round "Festival City", although most of these "festivals" are again pretty generic and mainly bunched together during the short Summer months. The better ones tend to be smaller and consequently sell out fast making tickets hard to come by. Eating out here is never a great experience, the restaurants are on the whole terrible - indifferent service and poor quality food.

Edmonton's "Crown Jewel" is it's "River Valley". The North Saskatchewan river valley effectively cuts Edmonton in two diagonally and provides some welcome greenery (during the summer) and a few miles of cycle trails. Unfortunately it also provides cover for an unofficial shanty town of tents and shacks housing many of the towns bums and vagrants during the Spring through to Autumn. Consequently, Edmontonians consider the river valley a no-go-area after dusk which is a shame.

Everyone mentions the driving, I confess, I do not drive. That said, I have witnessed more driving accidents and near misses in one year in Edmonton than in the rest of my 40+ years put together. No exaggeration. Yes, some of these were just winter prangs, but the majority were just caused by careless driving on ice-free roads. Crossing a busy intersection with one hand on the wheel while talking on your cell phone appears to be compulsory here. And man, do Edmontonians love the horn (insert puerile joke here).

The people of Edmonton are for the most part very nice. They are on the whole polite and welcoming - though I suspect being white has helped me out on that front. I'm pretty shocked at how quickly many (Caucasian) Edmontonians, regardless of age or background, can turn any discussion on the cause of Edmonton's woes in to an opportunity to be blatantly racist about either Natives Americas, Blacks or various "Asian" groups . (That said, these views may appeal to the "Daily Mail" type expat!) Canadians I've got to know from other parts of the country don't seem to fall back on these tired old clichés so often.
There also seems be a strange preoccupation bordering on an obsession with Calgary. Edmontonions generally seem to hate the place with a passion, whilst at the same time, desperately aspiring to be more like it. The fact that Calgary appears to be many Edmontonian's only yard-stick by which to judge it's own city gives some insight into the depth and breadth of the average Edmontonian's world view. Unfortunately, it doesn't help that Calgary is indeed a more appealing city in most respects, and at least has some character and sense of it's own identity.

Overall, after spending a year in Edmonton, my advice to anyone planning on making Canada their home would be to consider other cities before even looking at Edmonton. You don't get that whole "quality of life" thing here, far from it. I freely admit, we came here for the work and for that alone, and when the time is right we will be getting the hell out of here. I hope for the sake of the city and it's people the economy stays strong, Edmonton now isn't great, Edmonton during any kind of protracted slump doesn't bare thinking about.
i feel sorry for you, that the experience you have had and are having is so negative. we are the complete opposite. in the Uk we have lived in Nottingham and in sleepy dorset so have seen both sides of the pace and sides of life.
Here in edmonton , like any where else is what you make of it. you can research until the cows come home but until you try something or in this case somewhere you can not truly love or hate somewhere, and you obviously hate edmonton.
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Old Aug 12th 2009, 11:52 pm
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Default Re: One Year in Edmonton Alberta

What a load of rubbish.

Thats all i have to say about that.
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Old Aug 13th 2009, 12:18 am
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Default Re: One Year in Edmonton Alberta

Originally Posted by dannyg1001
What a load of rubbish.

Thats all i have to say about that.
Yet I see you're planning on leaving.
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Old Aug 13th 2009, 8:04 am
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Default Re: One Year in Edmonton Alberta

It is a shame that you feel this way and have obviously had a tough time of it.

I myself am not going to Edmonton so maybe I should not comment any further. Hiwever.....

What kind of research did you do ?

A lot of what you have written is extremely negative. It seems that you are seeing the bad in everything and not any positives at all. I understand that sometimes when you are pushed things get that way though.

Even so, having done no research at all I would say that I would never go to Edmonton myself because I see it as a quiet, sleepy backwater of a place with no culture and -50 degrees. Please (Edmontonians) don't be offended by this. I have no idea as I haven't done the research but a good friend of mine now living in London was born there and he hates it and this is where I get my view from.

Some people like the idea of a sleepy backwater but if this is not for you then I think you didn't do a great job on the research.

Anyway


Good luck with whatever you do next
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Old Aug 13th 2009, 8:59 am
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Default Re: One Year in Edmonton Alberta

Originally Posted by londonhatter
It is a shame that you feel this way and have obviously had a tough time of it.

I myself am not going to Edmonton so maybe I should not comment any further. Hiwever.....

What kind of research did you do ?

A lot of what you have written is extremely negative. It seems that you are seeing the bad in everything and not any positives at all. I understand that sometimes when you are pushed things get that way though.

Even so, having done no research at all I would say that I would never go to Edmonton myself because I see it as a quiet, sleepy backwater of a place with no culture and -50 degrees. Please (Edmontonians) don't be offended by this. I have no idea as I haven't done the research but a good friend of mine now living in London was born there and he hates it and this is where I get my view from.

Some people like the idea of a sleepy backwater but if this is not for you then I think you didn't do a great job on the research.

Anyway


Good luck with whatever you do next

I love the idea of someone considering Edmonton a "quiet sleepy backwater" - sounds delightful.

Last edited by bsmith; Aug 13th 2009 at 9:15 am.
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Old Aug 13th 2009, 1:11 pm
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Default Re: One Year in Edmonton Alberta

Originally Posted by bsmith
I love the idea of someone considering Edmonton a "quiet sleepy backwater" - sounds delightful.

I know what your saying as I wouldn't call Edmonton quiet either.

On another point living here forever isn't for me either, for the next five years it suits us.
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Old Aug 13th 2009, 3:58 pm
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Default Re: One Year in Edmonton Alberta

Sorry to hear that things are not so good for you .....

Interesting comments particularly as we have spent the last three years in Calgary and this weekend will be making our first ever trip to Edmonton! Curiously friends in Calgary are quite taken aback that we have never been to Edmonton. At least our trip will scratch their itch

We are also going to call in on Red Deer - and I can't wait to see the West Edmonton Mall

J
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Old Aug 13th 2009, 6:39 pm
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Default Re: One Year in Edmonton Alberta

We can't "rubbish" this post - as this is what the OP has found to be true - and he did start off by saying that his intention was not to insult or wind anyone up.

I can identify with much of what you say - and I've written on this site before that I do not think that Calgary is a pretty place, but it has pretty pockets all over the city. I also think I am not at all in tune with the architecture here (or lack thereof) but the natural beauty surrounding me takes my mind of box stores, strip malls and horrendous signage.

Edmonton strikes me as alone and just distant from anything else - a North American city three or four hours from anyone else - but in reality just like many cities anyway. I don't know it well enough and cannot comment on aesthetics but the few times I have visited it was just Calgary Mark II but not as nice

Put it down to experience bsmith - you have a job that pays the bills, and allows you to start making plans for your next move. Hey ho - such is life. No-one ever said we have to stay anywhere forever. I hope you find the home for you in due course.
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Old Aug 13th 2009, 8:56 pm
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Default Re: One Year in Edmonton Alberta

Originally Posted by Jingle
Sorry to hear that things are not so good for you .....

Interesting comments particularly as we have spent the last three years in Calgary and this weekend will be making our first ever trip to Edmonton! Curiously friends in Calgary are quite taken aback that we have never been to Edmonton. At least our trip will scratch their itch

We are also going to call in on Red Deer - and I can't wait to see the West Edmonton Mall

J
Hope you enjoy your trip to "the-city-by-the-mall" - one of our more pleasant nicknames.
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Old Aug 15th 2009, 6:27 am
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Default Re: One Year in Edmonton Alberta

Originally Posted by bsmith
Before I start, let me just say, this post will not go down well with Edmontonians - but it's not meant for them. I hope this thread will be read by people weighing up the pros and cons of the various Canadian cities. A recce is just a snapshot and warts-and-all, unbiased info (not just sugar-coated tourist rubbish) is hard to come by. Consequently, this piece may seem overly negative, but my intention here is not to anger or antagonize, but merely to redress the balance. Believe it or not I've gone easy, I've left out personal stuff that's happened, some of which would not make for comfortable reading on a forum such as this. (You can review crime stats etc. elsewhere)

So let's cut right to the chase, Edmonton is not the "world class" metropolis it's marketing people would have you believe. It's a blue collar city that rises and falls on the strength of it's economy - people relocate here from overseas and from other provinces for the work and for that alone. People looking for the whole "quality of life" thing, would be advised to seek it elsewhere. The city has a lamentable infrastructure, horrible architecture and doesn't show any sign of getting better any time soon.

The cities "downtown" area is a bit of a joke. It has none of the vibrancy or energy you would expect in a city this size. Very few pedestrianised areas or natural outdoor gathering places. There is also a very serious panhandling and aggressive begging problem, (which sometimes escalates into actual violence and recently death), although this is a problem not just restricted to the downtown area. Once out of the city centre Edmonton is your average mixture of generic condo blocks (flats), older "character" homes, strip-malls and the ubiquitous avenue after avenue of newly built McMansions. Property in Edmonton is relatively expensive by Canadian standards.

On the culture and entertainment front Edmonton is mediocre at best. There's stuff out there, but it's all pretty average and fairly generic, cinemas, clubs, galleries etc. Edmonton sells it's self as Canada's year round "Festival City", although most of these "festivals" are again pretty generic and mainly bunched together during the short Summer months. The better ones tend to be smaller and consequently sell out fast making tickets hard to come by. Eating out here is never a great experience, the restaurants are on the whole terrible - indifferent service and poor quality food.

Edmonton's "Crown Jewel" is it's "River Valley". The North Saskatchewan river valley effectively cuts Edmonton in two diagonally and provides some welcome greenery (during the summer) and a few miles of cycle trails. Unfortunately it also provides cover for an unofficial shanty town of tents and shacks housing many of the towns bums and vagrants during the Spring through to Autumn. Consequently, Edmontonians consider the river valley a no-go-area after dusk which is a shame.

Everyone mentions the driving, I confess, I do not drive. That said, I have witnessed more driving accidents and near misses in one year in Edmonton than in the rest of my 40+ years put together. No exaggeration. Yes, some of these were just winter prangs, but the majority were just caused by careless driving on ice-free roads. Crossing a busy intersection with one hand on the wheel while talking on your cell phone appears to be compulsory here. And man, do Edmontonians love the horn (insert puerile joke here).

The people of Edmonton are for the most part very nice. They are on the whole polite and welcoming - though I suspect being white has helped me out on that front. I'm pretty shocked at how quickly many (Caucasian) Edmontonians, regardless of age or background, can turn any discussion on the cause of Edmonton's woes in to an opportunity to be blatantly racist about either Natives Americas, Blacks or various "Asian" groups . (That said, these views may appeal to the "Daily Mail" type expat!) Canadians I've got to know from other parts of the country don't seem to fall back on these tired old clichés so often.
There also seems be a strange preoccupation bordering on an obsession with Calgary. Edmontonions generally seem to hate the place with a passion, whilst at the same time, desperately aspiring to be more like it. The fact that Calgary appears to be many Edmontonian's only yard-stick by which to judge it's own city gives some insight into the depth and breadth of the average Edmontonian's world view. Unfortunately, it doesn't help that Calgary is indeed a more appealing city in most respects, and at least has some character and sense of it's own identity.

Overall, after spending a year in Edmonton, my advice to anyone planning on making Canada their home would be to consider other cities before even looking at Edmonton. You don't get that whole "quality of life" thing here, far from it. I freely admit, we came here for the work and for that alone, and when the time is right we will be getting the hell out of here. I hope for the sake of the city and it's people the economy stays strong, Edmonton now isn't great, Edmonton during any kind of protracted slump doesn't bare thinking about.
i think this is quite accurate actually, been here just over 2yrs. just because you reflect in this way does not necessarily mean you 'hate' the place, just that its not for you, the opposite could just as easily apply.
i think the most accurate comment is from ann in relation to how i feel, its a place out on a limb with nothing around it, isolated, especially in winter.
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Old Aug 17th 2009, 2:01 pm
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Default Re: One Year in Edmonton Alberta

I'm sorry to hear your not enjoying Edmonton. I must admit my husband I only go there if at all necessary, don't like the driving, we always get lost and havn't found anything nice about it on our visits. Much prefer visiting Calgary - even though we always get lost and don't like the driving Hope you find a town/city more to your liking in the future
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Old Aug 17th 2009, 2:02 pm
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Default Re: One Year in Edmonton Alberta

Originally Posted by Jingle
Sorry to hear that things are not so good for you .....

Interesting comments particularly as we have spent the last three years in Calgary and this weekend will be making our first ever trip to Edmonton! Curiously friends in Calgary are quite taken aback that we have never been to Edmonton. At least our trip will scratch their itch

We are also going to call in on Red Deer - and I can't wait to see the West Edmonton Mall

J
Wave as you go past!
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