Electrical Question
#76
Re: Electrical Question
Originally Posted by Stewie
Cresta
Pity you're in QLD. We could have a couple of beers and have a good laugh.
We'll be in Melbourne at Christmas and QLD for 2 weeks in the New Year.
If I see a bloke with tags all over his power tools will that be you?
See ya
Pity you're in QLD. We could have a couple of beers and have a good laugh.
We'll be in Melbourne at Christmas and QLD for 2 weeks in the New Year.
If I see a bloke with tags all over his power tools will that be you?
See ya
It's the poor buggers in NSW I feel sorry for they just made monthly tagging compulsory there. There's talk of it happening here in QLD but they'll probably have to mull it over for another 20 yrs
#77
Forum Regular
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Norfolk, England
Posts: 74
Re: Electrical Question
Excuse me for jumping into this long thread rather late, but I've only just spotted it.
Like most of the world, Australia relies on the fuses at the distribution panel to protect both the fixed wiring to the outlet, and the appliance/cord. The outlets and plugs are rated for 10 amps maximum.
The most common arrangement in Britain, however, is a ring circuit. I won't go into all the pros and cons, but the relevant point here is that the U.K. ring circuit is fed from a 30A fuse at the distribution panel. That allows a lot more power to be drawn from the one circuit, but it is much too high to provide protection for individual appliances and their connecting cords. That's why the British 13A plug is fitted with its own fuse.
For most British appliances, there's is no problem with simply removing the British plug and fitting an Australian 10A plug, which when connected to the outlet will be protected by the fuse at the distribution panel. Be careful of high-power appliances though. 240V at 10A comes to 2400 watts maximum, so don't trying doing this with a big 3kW electric kettle!
Not all British circuits are protected by an RCD. It depends upon several factors, but I won't bore everyone with the details.
Like most of the world, Australia relies on the fuses at the distribution panel to protect both the fixed wiring to the outlet, and the appliance/cord. The outlets and plugs are rated for 10 amps maximum.
The most common arrangement in Britain, however, is a ring circuit. I won't go into all the pros and cons, but the relevant point here is that the U.K. ring circuit is fed from a 30A fuse at the distribution panel. That allows a lot more power to be drawn from the one circuit, but it is much too high to provide protection for individual appliances and their connecting cords. That's why the British 13A plug is fitted with its own fuse.
For most British appliances, there's is no problem with simply removing the British plug and fitting an Australian 10A plug, which when connected to the outlet will be protected by the fuse at the distribution panel. Be careful of high-power appliances though. 240V at 10A comes to 2400 watts maximum, so don't trying doing this with a big 3kW electric kettle!
Originally Posted by neil.b
Please excuse me if I am incorrect, but if in britain a circuit is protected by both a plug fuse and an RCD/earth leakage trip, surely the UK is more safety conscious than the Australian legislation.
#78
Re: Electrical Question
Originally Posted by cresta57
Yep me or any other tradie working here in Qld.
It's the poor buggers in NSW I feel sorry for they just made monthly tagging compulsory there. There's talk of it happening here in QLD but they'll probably have to mull it over for another 20 yrs
It's the poor buggers in NSW I feel sorry for they just made monthly tagging compulsory there. There's talk of it happening here in QLD but they'll probably have to mull it over for another 20 yrs
#79
Re: Electrical Question
Originally Posted by PBC_1966
Excuse me for jumping into this long thread rather late, but I've only just spotted it.
Like most of the world, Australia relies on the fuses at the distribution panel to protect both the fixed wiring to the outlet, and the appliance/cord. The outlets and plugs are rated for 10 amps maximum.
The most common arrangement in Britain, however, is a ring circuit. I won't go into all the pros and cons, but the relevant point here is that the U.K. ring circuit is fed from a 30A fuse at the distribution panel. That allows a lot more power to be drawn from the one circuit, but it is much too high to provide protection for individual appliances and their connecting cords. That's why the British 13A plug is fitted with its own fuse.
For most British appliances, there's is no problem with simply removing the British plug and fitting an Australian 10A plug, which when connected to the outlet will be protected by the fuse at the distribution panel. Be careful of high-power appliances though. 240V at 10A comes to 2400 watts maximum, so don't trying doing this with a big 3kW electric kettle!
Not all British circuits are protected by an RCD. It depends upon several factors, but I won't bore everyone with the details.
Like most of the world, Australia relies on the fuses at the distribution panel to protect both the fixed wiring to the outlet, and the appliance/cord. The outlets and plugs are rated for 10 amps maximum.
The most common arrangement in Britain, however, is a ring circuit. I won't go into all the pros and cons, but the relevant point here is that the U.K. ring circuit is fed from a 30A fuse at the distribution panel. That allows a lot more power to be drawn from the one circuit, but it is much too high to provide protection for individual appliances and their connecting cords. That's why the British 13A plug is fitted with its own fuse.
For most British appliances, there's is no problem with simply removing the British plug and fitting an Australian 10A plug, which when connected to the outlet will be protected by the fuse at the distribution panel. Be careful of high-power appliances though. 240V at 10A comes to 2400 watts maximum, so don't trying doing this with a big 3kW electric kettle!
Not all British circuits are protected by an RCD. It depends upon several factors, but I won't bore everyone with the details.
THANK PCB - good clear post! I am happy now!
#80
Re: Electrical Question
Originally Posted by PBC_1966
.
For most British appliances, there's is no problem with simply removing the British plug and fitting an Australian 10A plug, which when connected to the outlet will be protected by the fuse at the distribution panel. Be careful of high-power appliances though. 240V at 10A comes to 2400 watts maximum, so don't trying doing this with a big 3kW electric kettle!
For most British appliances, there's is no problem with simply removing the British plug and fitting an Australian 10A plug, which when connected to the outlet will be protected by the fuse at the distribution panel. Be careful of high-power appliances though. 240V at 10A comes to 2400 watts maximum, so don't trying doing this with a big 3kW electric kettle!
Sorry to harp on about this but I worked for insurance companies in the U.K and I've seen so many house fires and loss of life over the years it's a subject close to my heart.
#81
Re: Electrical Question
Well, now I am completely confused. I am obviously thick but I know no more now than when I started reading the thread.
It is not against the law to purchase electrical accessories or fixed wired electrical appliances, but a licensed electrical contractor must install them.
In my numpty world, that means that if I go out and buy a new kettle, I have to pay someone to come and plug it in for me
I intend to bring out my relatively new washing machine and dishwasher. Do I have to get someone to plumb and plug them in (coming to Queensland) and then they will cause a fire because they are not the same amps?
Jad n rich - don't get involved, it will only raise your blood pressure
It is not against the law to purchase electrical accessories or fixed wired electrical appliances, but a licensed electrical contractor must install them.
In my numpty world, that means that if I go out and buy a new kettle, I have to pay someone to come and plug it in for me
I intend to bring out my relatively new washing machine and dishwasher. Do I have to get someone to plumb and plug them in (coming to Queensland) and then they will cause a fire because they are not the same amps?
Jad n rich - don't get involved, it will only raise your blood pressure
#82
Re: Electrical Question
Originally Posted by cresta57
You raise another interesting point here, the actual sockets in Australia are only rated at 10amps. Therefore anyone bringing dishwashers, washing machines or a jug kettle and simply cutting off the 13amp plug and fitting a 10 amp could conceivably overload the socket and cause a fire behind the wall, sockets are not protected with a metal patress here and are often screwed straight to the studs. Lots of white goods and quick boil kettles bought in the U.K are 3kw rated and exceed the maximum rating. While the rcd is usually a 20 amp the socket itself is the weak point. How many electricians have changed 13amp sockets in the U.K because they were burned out by kettle/washing machine combinations?
Sorry to harp on about this but I worked for insurance companies in the U.K and I've seen so many house fires and loss of life over the years it's a subject close to my heart.
Sorry to harp on about this but I worked for insurance companies in the U.K and I've seen so many house fires and loss of life over the years it's a subject close to my heart.
My question is (1) Are there any Australian appliances rated at 3Kw
(2) If so they are obviously not connected by plugs into the sockets, so are they hard wired to an appliance wall socket?
#83
Re: Electrical Question
Originally Posted by moneypen20
In my numpty world, that means that if I go out and buy a new kettle, I have to pay someone to come and plug it in for me
Originally Posted by moneypen20
I intend to bring out my relatively new washing machine and dishwasher. Do I have to get someone to plumb and plug them in (coming to Queensland) and then they will cause a fire because they are not the same amps?
Plumbing regs are worse than electric ones sorry but you need a plumber to do any alterations to your household supply. You may find there's a fitting for a dishwasher and usually there are a couple of taps in the laundry room for your washing machine in which case you are allowed to screw the pipes to them.
Stewie,
They hard wire the hotplates[cooker tops] direct to the mains. Don't know if they are 3kw rated I'll look today as the white goods were delivered to the job I'm tiling yesterday evening.
#84
Re: Electrical Question
Thanks for that.
I think I might get myself a job with Queensland Government. I fancy being paid to be a control freak
I think I might get myself a job with Queensland Government. I fancy being paid to be a control freak
#85
Home and Happy
Joined: Dec 2002
Location: Keep true friends and puppets close, trust no-one else...
Posts: 93,809
Re: Electrical Question
Originally Posted by moneypen20
I think I might get myself a job with Queensland Government. I fancy being paid to be a control freak
#86
Re: Electrical Question
Originally Posted by Pollyana
Ahah! Vee hav vays ov controlling you....get a job with this bit of Qld govt and we have lots of nice Firies too!!!
#87
Just Joined
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 21
Re: Electrical Question
Hi MATE,
Can I take my electric guitar and the guitar processor with me to Australia? I am going there as a permanent resident.
Please suggest me what to do!!!
Thanks,
Peavy.
Can I take my electric guitar and the guitar processor with me to Australia? I am going there as a permanent resident.
Please suggest me what to do!!!
Thanks,
Peavy.
#88
Home and Happy
Joined: Dec 2002
Location: Keep true friends and puppets close, trust no-one else...
Posts: 93,809
Re: Electrical Question
Just resurrecting this thread as we had an electrcican and our lovely landlor dout here last night.
All the electrical equipment - including the pc (!) started flashing on and off. went outside, everyone else OK, sent The Bloke to the garage to switch off the mains and there were sparks and smoke coming out of the fuse box. Landlord turned up and insisted it was our appliances causing it - in fact he started by saying "were you using anything electrical" - which at 7pm on a dark night hardly seemed like a question worthy of reply!
Them he tried to mutter that it must be stuff introduced recently (ie from the UK) and that he therefore wouldnt be liable. Fortunately the only UK-plugged thing is the pc, so he couldn't blame overloading of the supply on that.
It was clearly the fuse box not the appliances.
FIVE hours later Mr Dodgy Landlord was told by his electrician mate that he had to replace the boxes for both units ASAP as they were dangerous and it should have been done years ago. Must have scared him, we had the guy round doing the work this morning!
So a couple of morals and things I discovered - although there is the equivalent of a trip switch by the fuse box it only trips if the applicances are causing trouble, not if the fuse box has the problem.
- dodgy landlords will avoid spending money maintaining electrics whenever they can.
- cookers here do not have on "off" switch, they are wired straight into the circuit in the wall. I was here in the dark trying to identify the grill and turn it off, where in the UK there was a master switch on the wall.
- electricians see nothing wrong with a bathroom lightswitch that is hanging off the wall so far the wires are exposed though he has now replaced it for us.
And get a surge protected power board for the pc - this poor thing was flashing on and off like a Christmas tree, but they reckon the surge protector saved it from meltdown. Good idea for TV etc as well.
Thanks to the Electrical Division of Microbrew Mansions for their Hotline Advice
All the electrical equipment - including the pc (!) started flashing on and off. went outside, everyone else OK, sent The Bloke to the garage to switch off the mains and there were sparks and smoke coming out of the fuse box. Landlord turned up and insisted it was our appliances causing it - in fact he started by saying "were you using anything electrical" - which at 7pm on a dark night hardly seemed like a question worthy of reply!
Them he tried to mutter that it must be stuff introduced recently (ie from the UK) and that he therefore wouldnt be liable. Fortunately the only UK-plugged thing is the pc, so he couldn't blame overloading of the supply on that.
It was clearly the fuse box not the appliances.
FIVE hours later Mr Dodgy Landlord was told by his electrician mate that he had to replace the boxes for both units ASAP as they were dangerous and it should have been done years ago. Must have scared him, we had the guy round doing the work this morning!
So a couple of morals and things I discovered - although there is the equivalent of a trip switch by the fuse box it only trips if the applicances are causing trouble, not if the fuse box has the problem.
- dodgy landlords will avoid spending money maintaining electrics whenever they can.
- cookers here do not have on "off" switch, they are wired straight into the circuit in the wall. I was here in the dark trying to identify the grill and turn it off, where in the UK there was a master switch on the wall.
- electricians see nothing wrong with a bathroom lightswitch that is hanging off the wall so far the wires are exposed though he has now replaced it for us.
And get a surge protected power board for the pc - this poor thing was flashing on and off like a Christmas tree, but they reckon the surge protector saved it from meltdown. Good idea for TV etc as well.
Thanks to the Electrical Division of Microbrew Mansions for their Hotline Advice
#89
Re: Electrical Question
Originally Posted by Pollyana
Just resurrecting this thread as we had an electrcican and our lovely landlor dout here last night.
All the electrical equipment - including the pc (!) started flashing on and off. went outside, everyone else OK, sent The Bloke to the garage to switch off the mains and there were sparks and smoke coming out of the fuse box. Landlord turned up and insisted it was our appliances causing it - in fact he started by saying "were you using anything electrical" - which at 7pm on a dark night hardly seemed like a question worthy of reply!
Them he tried to mutter that it must be stuff introduced recently (ie from the UK) and that he therefore wouldnt be liable. Fortunately the only UK-plugged thing is the pc, so he couldn't blame overloading of the supply on that.
It was clearly the fuse box not the appliances.
FIVE hours later Mr Dodgy Landlord was told by his electrician mate that he had to replace the boxes for both units ASAP as they were dangerous and it should have been done years ago. Must have scared him, we had the guy round doing the work this morning!
So a couple of morals and things I discovered - although there is the equivalent of a trip switch by the fuse box it only trips if the applicances are causing trouble, not if the fuse box has the problem.
- dodgy landlords will avoid spending money maintaining electrics whenever they can.
- cookers here do not have on "off" switch, they are wired straight into the circuit in the wall. I was here in the dark trying to identify the grill and turn it off, where in the UK there was a master switch on the wall.
- electricians see nothing wrong with a bathroom lightswitch that is hanging off the wall so far the wires are exposed though he has now replaced it for us.
And get a surge protected power board for the pc - this poor thing was flashing on and off like a Christmas tree, but they reckon the surge protector saved it from meltdown. Good idea for TV etc as well.
Thanks to the Electrical Division of Microbrew Mansions for their Hotline Advice
All the electrical equipment - including the pc (!) started flashing on and off. went outside, everyone else OK, sent The Bloke to the garage to switch off the mains and there were sparks and smoke coming out of the fuse box. Landlord turned up and insisted it was our appliances causing it - in fact he started by saying "were you using anything electrical" - which at 7pm on a dark night hardly seemed like a question worthy of reply!
Them he tried to mutter that it must be stuff introduced recently (ie from the UK) and that he therefore wouldnt be liable. Fortunately the only UK-plugged thing is the pc, so he couldn't blame overloading of the supply on that.
It was clearly the fuse box not the appliances.
FIVE hours later Mr Dodgy Landlord was told by his electrician mate that he had to replace the boxes for both units ASAP as they were dangerous and it should have been done years ago. Must have scared him, we had the guy round doing the work this morning!
So a couple of morals and things I discovered - although there is the equivalent of a trip switch by the fuse box it only trips if the applicances are causing trouble, not if the fuse box has the problem.
- dodgy landlords will avoid spending money maintaining electrics whenever they can.
- cookers here do not have on "off" switch, they are wired straight into the circuit in the wall. I was here in the dark trying to identify the grill and turn it off, where in the UK there was a master switch on the wall.
- electricians see nothing wrong with a bathroom lightswitch that is hanging off the wall so far the wires are exposed though he has now replaced it for us.
And get a surge protected power board for the pc - this poor thing was flashing on and off like a Christmas tree, but they reckon the surge protector saved it from meltdown. Good idea for TV etc as well.
Thanks to the Electrical Division of Microbrew Mansions for their Hotline Advice
Right who needs some good advise on DIY dentistry
#90
Re: Electrical Question
A simple question... no complicated answers please!!
Will my Uk washer and tumble dryer be OK with Uk plugs nd an OZ adaptor?
Another plug gripe (very simple again!); I hate the way the plugs pull out easily, especially when you're doing the hoovering. What a hard life
Will my Uk washer and tumble dryer be OK with Uk plugs nd an OZ adaptor?
Another plug gripe (very simple again!); I hate the way the plugs pull out easily, especially when you're doing the hoovering. What a hard life